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  1. #26
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    There has been a lot said about this bike but personally I see a few things that would make me not recomond it to a newbie.

    Also how far and what kind of commute? under 8 or so miles each way I think a good hybrid is a better choice for a commuter.
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo SOLd, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis SOLD, '79 Mixte SOLD, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti SOLD, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '86 Bertoni (sold), '09 Motobecane SS, '98 Hetchins M.O., '09 K2 Mainframe SOLD, '89 Trek 2000, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

  2. #27
    Member zs3889's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oddjob2 View Post
    The body is called a frame. Reposition the saddle so it is level, your buttocks and hands will feel much better. The cable housing looks old and the shifter cables look rusty. They should be replaced, you can buy those at the LBS. Buy a Park AWS 1c allen tool as your first tool.

    Rei.com, look at outlet deals on helmets, saddles. Free ship on $50 or free shipping, store pickup. The in store service is cheap too and they can redo your cables. This ought to be done when you get new bar tape.

    checkout Nashbar.com, but they charge for shipping. If you are getting a pair of tires too, try niagaracycle.com, free ship if you spend $100.

    Congratulations and enjoy.

    Wow how did you see the cable housing and shifter cables from the photos I posted.

    Thanks for the suggestions! Nashbar and niagaracycle obth look pretty good, and Nashbar offers free shipping for today!


    Quote Originally Posted by Chicago Al View Post


    The bars should certainly be rotated up a bit. I hesitate to say this but if you're really new to riding a road bike you may not be aware: there are at least three common positions for holding drop bars: on the tops/flats, on the hoods, and in the drops, the lowest position. If you get your position just right there shouldn't be too much pressure on your hands, and what there is can be relieved by changing hand position. Also of course there are gloves, and some bar tape has more cushion. There are even thin gel pads you can put under the tape. Saddles are a very personal thing and I suggest you try out several until you find something that works well.

    Really a sharp bike at a good price. Even if you ultimately decide you want something else, it should be 'liquid' at what you paid for it.
    Yea I am aware of the road bike riding positions that you just mentioned. I was talking about the hands on the hoods position, I think the pressure and pain should go away when the handlebars are rotated up, so there will be less pressure on my palms when I ride. I think a pair of brake hoods would help ease the pain too (there is none right now, just some non-padded generic black tape).

    I was wondering if replacing the stem would be a good idea. I really want the stem, handlebars, brake levers area to be black. I guess I could just repaint it with black paint. I thought the black colored stem on the Comp TA in the first page looked really good.


    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    There has been a lot said about this bike but personally I see a few things that would make me not recomond it to a newbie.

    Also how far and what kind of commute? under 8 or so miles each way I think a good hybrid is a better choice for a commuter.
    Yea I agree with you, as someone has pointed out the fact that this bike is not the best choice as a commuter. I am just trying it out and I have always like road bikes. The commute to work would be 2.5 miles each way, so that's not too far. There is also a possibility that I will get hooked and do leisure cycling in the canyons on weekends

  3. #28
    Senior Member Chicago Al's Avatar
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    A 'dirt drop' style stem would get the bars up higher. Or you could change stem and bars completely, go with flat bars for upright riding. No harm to the bike, it could always be turned back into a full roadie.

    But heck, a 2.5 mile commute, you'll be fine. I predict you'll find that just gets you to the beginning of being warmed up, and you'll want to take the bike our much further on the weekends.
    I never think I have hit hard, unless it rebounds.

    - Dr Samuel Johnson

  4. #29
    Still learning oddjob2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zs3889 View Post
    Wow how did you see the cable housing and shifter cables from the photos I posted.
    If the original photo that is linked is fairly high resolution, zooming in with an iPad Retina display will let you sees everything. Better than my MB Air.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein
    2014 Additions: 1985 Trek 560, 1992 Trek Multitrack 700 (my 2nd), 1994 Trek Carbon 2200, Peugeot PX-10, 1981 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8, 1989 Bridgestone RB-1, Miyata 912

  5. #30
    Member zs3889's Avatar
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    Thank you guys, for helping out. Seems like there is not much discussion left in this thread and it has definitely served its purpose.

    One last question, if there is any thread in this forum or any other website that would be helpful to me on working/fixing/cleaning/restoring my 'new' bike. Please post it here or send me a pm! With my post counts, I am not allowed to send pm to other forumers yet (I think that's a stupid restriction), so I can't go asking people for help and I don't want to be starting another thread about my bike, that would seem unnecessary. Thanks!
    Last edited by zs3889; 02-20-14 at 09:18 AM.

  6. #31
    AmiableNitrite Member VonCarlos's Avatar
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    Congrats on getting that Ironman. I live in Salt Lake as well and it caught my eye.

    There is a Bikeforums member, Randy, that has a great website for fixing up vintage ten-speeds. Definitely give it a look.
    http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpe...ITE_1_HOME.htm

    Keep asking your questions and you will soon have your pm quota, but switch over to posting them on the regular Classic & Vintage forum.

    PS. more photos, more photos, more photos, we love photos here.
    Last edited by VonCarlos; 02-20-14 at 08:28 AM. Reason: added text

  7. #32
    Senior Member Chicago Al's Avatar
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    Yep, the mytenspeeds site is good, and you can probably find any specific question answered by searching the site here. The 'Bike Mechanics' forum is good, too. If you get hung up by the search function, try google, and after your term write : site: bikeforums.net which may be more effective.

    For actually working on the bike, out in the garage or on the patio though, I have found it very handy to have some old paperback manuals, and as they were printed in the millions in the 70s-80s I found them very cheap (like under $3 shipped) at Amazon. The two I use are Eugene Sloane's 'Complete Guide to Bike Maintenance,' my copy being early 80s I think, and the 'Bicycling Magazine Guide to Bike Maintenance' from later in the 80s. You could use a guide from the early 90s as it will include indexed shifting, which your bike has (or should have). Modern versions of these books give short shrift to older bikes' gear.

    If you really want to geek out on this stuff, Frank Berto's 'Complete Guide to Upgrading Your Bike' shows you what 'serious' cyclists were thinking about gear at a certain point in time. It kind of 'brought me up to speed' as far as mid 80s bike technology. Again I paid peanuts for a copy.

    This stuff is not rocket surgery, and once you get a handle on say overhauling a hub, it's not like you'll need to check the instructions.
    I never think I have hit hard, unless it rebounds.

    - Dr Samuel Johnson

  8. #33
    Senior Member inkandsilver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VonCarlos View Post
    Congrats on getting that Ironman. I live in Salt Lake as well and it caught my eye.
    Me too and me too.

    The SLC Bicycle Collective is a great place - they have open shop hours for $5/hour (or $40/year), free Park Tool School classes, and nice folks.

    Definitely level that saddle out... that might get you comfortable enough to ride it for a while and figure out what fit items you need to change.
    197X Raleigh Grand Prix (beater) -- 1977 Centurion Semi-Pro (all-arounder) -- 1987 Schwinn High Sierra (dropbar conversion) -- 1996 Trek 930 (MTB) -- 2011 Jamis Coda (supercommuter)

  9. #34
    Member zs3889's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VonCarlos View Post
    Congrats on getting that Ironman. I live in Salt Lake as well and it caught my eye.

    There is a Bikeforums member, Randy, that has a great website for fixing up vintage ten-speeds. Definitely give it a look.
    http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpe...ITE_1_HOME.htm

    Keep asking your questions and you will soon have your pm quota, but switch over to posting them on the regular Classic & Vintage forum.

    PS. more photos, more photos, more photos, we love photos here.


    Quote Originally Posted by inkandsilver View Post
    Me too and me too.

    The SLC Bicycle Collective is a great place - they have open shop hours for $5/hour (or $40/year), free Park Tool School classes, and nice folks.

    Definitely level that saddle out... that might get you comfortable enough to ride it for a while and figure out what fit items you need to change.

    Wow I am glad that I acted quickly on this one with the generous help that I received on this forum of course. Don't worry, I love taking and posting photos too!

    Since both of you are in SLC, any recommendation on local bike stores that are on the affordable side? I am not ready to spend big on components/accessories yet, so no high-end and fancy store for me.

    Here are some pics that show the scratches on the frame, they are actually pretty bad but it doesn't bother me too much. I will probably use a black sharpie to fill up the missing part of CENTURION after the bike has been cleaned. It would also be great to know some ways to prevent the paint job from falling apart from now on. I took a quick look at mytenspeeds and it seems very informative, thanks!










    Quote Originally Posted by Chicago Al View Post
    Yep, the mytenspeeds site is good, and you can probably find any specific question answered by searching the site here. The 'Bike Mechanics' forum is good, too. If you get hung up by the search function, try google, and after your term write : site: bikeforums.net which may be more effective.

    For actually working on the bike, out in the garage or on the patio though, I have found it very handy to have some old paperback manuals, and as they were printed in the millions in the 70s-80s I found them very cheap (like under $3 shipped) at Amazon. The two I use are Eugene Sloane's 'Complete Guide to Bike Maintenance,' my copy being early 80s I think, and the 'Bicycling Magazine Guide to Bike Maintenance' from later in the 80s. You could use a guide from the early 90s as it will include indexed shifting, which your bike has (or should have). Modern versions of these books give short shrift to older bikes' gear.

    If you really want to geek out on this stuff, Frank Berto's 'Complete Guide to Upgrading Your Bike' shows you what 'serious' cyclists were thinking about gear at a certain point in time. It kind of 'brought me up to speed' as far as mid 80s bike technology. Again I paid peanuts for a copy.

    This stuff is not rocket surgery, and once you get a handle on say overhauling a hub, it's not like you'll need to check the instructions.

    Thanks for the suggestions, I will certainly look into them. I always have the urge to really get into and research the things that I pick up.
    Last edited by zs3889; 02-20-14 at 02:45 PM.

  10. #35
    Rogue Cyclist RaleighSport's Avatar
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    Looking good! Keep it up.
    "Seriously is what I want to be, so I put on spandex and show off my gear, my junk, my thing, yes my ding-a-ling."

  11. #36
    Senior Member PatTheSlat's Avatar
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    I bet that paint would clean up pretty nice with a decent polishing compound and a coat of wax (I personally use Meguiar's on every bike I work on).

  12. #37
    AmiableNitrite Member VonCarlos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zs3889 View Post
    Since both of you are in SLC, any recommendation on local bike stores that are on the affordable side? I am not ready to spend big on components/accessories yet, so no high-end and fancy store for me.
    I think your best bet is to use Amazon or Bike Nashbar online. Performance bike on 2100 S. has deals.
    And there are plenty of other online sellers.

    Carlos

  13. #38
    Senior Member inkandsilver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zs3889 View Post
    Wow I am glad that I acted quickly on this one with the generous help that I received on this forum of course. Don't worry, I love taking and posting photos too!

    Since both of you are in SLC, any recommendation on local bike stores that are on the affordable side? I am not ready to spend big on components/accessories yet, so no high-end and fancy store for me.
    I'm not sure you'll see much of a price difference from shop to shop. What kind of things are you planning to buy? I like Cottonwood Cyclery because they seem to cater to all sorts of cyclists rather than mainly to those who want/have the latest and greatest. Or check out Saturday Cycles if you want to stay closer to downtown and want to ogle some sweet new steel bikes.

    The Bike Collective I mentioned has the basics like cables/housing/brake pads/etc. and lots of used bits & pieces...
    197X Raleigh Grand Prix (beater) -- 1977 Centurion Semi-Pro (all-arounder) -- 1987 Schwinn High Sierra (dropbar conversion) -- 1996 Trek 930 (MTB) -- 2011 Jamis Coda (supercommuter)

  14. #39
    Member zs3889's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VonCarlos View Post
    I think your best bet is to use Amazon or Bike Nashbar online. Performance bike on 2100 S. has deals.
    And there are plenty of other online sellers.

    Carlos
    Thanks, will probably drop by performance bike after work today.


    Quote Originally Posted by inkandsilver View Post
    I'm not sure you'll see much of a price difference from shop to shop. What kind of things are you planning to buy? I like Cottonwood Cyclery because they seem to cater to all sorts of cyclists rather than mainly to those who want/have the latest and greatest. Or check out Saturday Cycles if you want to stay closer to downtown and want to ogle some sweet new steel bikes.

    The Bike Collective I mentioned has the basics like cables/housing/brake pads/etc. and lots of used bits & pieces...

    I am planning to buy stuff like bar tape, brake hoods, brake cable & housing, helmet, lock and some head/tail lights, nothing major. Thanks for the suggestion but Cottonwood Cyclery is a little to far away from where I am. Is the Bike Collective like some kind of workshop that lets people to work on their bikes? That's pretty cool.


    Also, if anyone knows or owns any brake hoods that fit the Suntour GPX, please do let me know!
    Last edited by zs3889; 02-21-14 at 02:31 PM.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by zs3889 View Post

    Love the micropipettes in the BG.

    I did that search for brake hood replacement before. The Dia-Compe hood is like the go to product for replacing vintage shimano brake level. It might work for GPX too, worth a try.

    However these things are not that much softer than the electric tape you have right now..
    65% of all statistics are made up on the spot. - DD

  16. #41
    Still learning oddjob2's Avatar
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    OP has aero levers so he needs aero hoods, not the Dia Compe non-aeros.

    Try these:
    http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BL-105...owViewpoints=1
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein
    2014 Additions: 1985 Trek 560, 1992 Trek Multitrack 700 (my 2nd), 1994 Trek Carbon 2200, Peugeot PX-10, 1981 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8, 1989 Bridgestone RB-1, Miyata 912

  17. #42
    Member zs3889's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CenturionIM View Post
    Love the micropipettes in the BG.

    I did that search for brake hood replacement before. The Dia-Compe hood is like the go to product for replacing vintage shimano brake level. It might work for GPX too, worth a try.

    However these things are not that much softer than the electric tape you have right now..
    Thanks, yea I am looking for aero brake hoods. The entire handlebar looks really ugly and poorly done. I just bought some black handlebar tape today and still looking for brake cable & housing, and also brake hoods. It's ok if the brake hoods are not much softer than what it is right now, I am just trying to make it look better. I am not doing any major overhaul on the bike either so these components are not going to cost me a fortune. I rotated the handlebar upwards and it feels so much better riding with my wrists on the brake levers, even without any hood.


    Quote Originally Posted by oddjob2 View Post
    OP has aero levers so he needs aero hoods, not the Dia Compe non-aeros.

    Try these:
    http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BL-105...owViewpoints=1
    Thank you! Are these the ones you have on your expert?


    Also, brake cable & housing, this should work just fine right?

    http://www.amazon.com/Bell-Sports-70...pr_product_top

    Can't wait to get all the stuff I need to replace everything on the handlebar!
    Last edited by zs3889; 02-21-14 at 08:27 PM.

  18. #43
    Senior Member PatTheSlat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zs3889 View Post
    Also, brake cable & housing, this should work just fine right?

    http://www.amazon.com/Bell-Sports-70...pr_product_top
    If you're using friction shifting it'll be okay, but with indexed shifting it won't work properly because of the type of cable housing included in that set. Also, the housings in that set are cheap and un-lined, so the cables won't move as smoothly through them, especially when they start to rust since the cables aren't stainless. I would suggest buying some stainless cables:
    http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...2030mm-ss-univ
    http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...universal-5089
    and maybe some housing from a local shop (I buy all my housing in bulk 50-100ft rolls since I work on so many bikes, maybe someone else here will know where to get a good deal on one bike's worth).

  19. #44
    AmiableNitrite Member VonCarlos's Avatar
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    I forgot to mention in my initial post, that there is another fabulous reference/knowledge base cycling bible website, Sheldon Brown (RIP). You really must check his site.
    And you really should switch over to asking in the regular C&V section.
    Cheers,
    Carlos

  20. #45
    Still learning oddjob2's Avatar
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    I have the original Suntour GPX levers. The hoods were already on the bike and are Diacompe. These are probably the set.

    http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-BL07...mpe+aero+hoods
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein
    2014 Additions: 1985 Trek 560, 1992 Trek Multitrack 700 (my 2nd), 1994 Trek Carbon 2200, Peugeot PX-10, 1981 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8, 1989 Bridgestone RB-1, Miyata 912

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