yiffzer

Hey all, I've been eyeing this bike for a while now. The seller originally asked for $395.

https://rochester.craigslist.org/bik/4049598403.html

I did plenty of research and from what I learned, no one should pay more than $250 for this. I read from someone that they used to sell $450 MSRP when it was first released. The problem is I have no way of verifying this information -- I can't find it on bikepedia or Cannondale's own catalogs.

This bike looks nearly perfect except with some normal wear on the components and some rust. I'd love to take it in and overhaul it. It's got Shimano 105 components. He does not know anything else, really. I called the owner and tried to explain to him that it's not a $395 bike. The seller asked me to prove to him that it wasn't worth the price. He also asked that I prove it sold for $450 MSRP.

Now the seller is offering $280 for it. I still feel like it's a bit high. I did not go over to check it out yet but I need someone to tell me if it's worth it.

Thanks!

Bianchigirll 

Beauty and value is in the eye and heart of the beholder. It looks pretty nice and some here will say even if you paid $50 it is too much.

I may have over paid for a few bikes like my Bianchi Ti MegaTube or the Hetchins frame but since these bikes/frames don't come along everday I just had to jump on it.

Judging from the rims I would almost say this spent more time on a storage hook than on the road.

yiffzer

I am a bit lost here. Can you tell me why I am mistaken?

rccardr 

The market judges value, not MRSP 25 years ago. Where you are, the time of year, whether your area is bike friendly, whether the seller is motivated, whether it's raining today, whether it's payday...all have an impact.

As a seller of many, many Cannondales over the years, I can say that in my market, at this time of year, if it fits me and looks as good in person as it does in the picures, that's easily a $395 bike. I've sold fully restored ones for well upwards of $800, lowest price I ever sold a refurbed one for was $525.

Fatal mistake to call or e-mail the seller and tell him to lower the price. Better to see it in person, on time, with cash in hand, and dicker over price in person.

oddjob2

At $280, I am surprised IthaDan hasn't snatched it up! The water bottle is worth $20 with holder.

Cannondales are like certain older BMW sport sedans and coupes, higher level of performance, prestige, and they hold there value pretty well relative to the competition. Many bikes today that I sell go for more than original list price; these are not so hard to find Peugeots, Motobecanes, and Treks. I'm letting my Cannondale below appreciate!

At the end of the day, what else can you get for the same $$ in Rochester. I see a couple of garden variety Fujis, a Schwinn Caliente, and a Trek Hybrid.

Buy it tonight!

jyl

Pretty bike, great color.

Yes, if you keep looking long enough, you will eventually find an equivalent Cannondale for $200 - but when? and how many hours will you waste chasing down possibilities? and will it be quite as nice?

I'd go buy it (if it fits!). Bring cash, try to do $250, but if I bought that bike for $280 with a couple months of riding left in the season, I wouldn't be upset.

I have a '92 R1000 and it is the quickest accelerating, fastest handling, liveliest bike I own.

Cache

Rochester NY, more like a couple *hours* of riding season left...

If the OP can grab it for $250 and if it's the right size, not a bad deal.

gcottay

If it turns out to be a bike you will ride and enjoy for many miles, overpaying would not be a problem for me. I'd much rather overpay for a keeper than deal with a bargain also ran. I'd see it, ride it, and listen for the bike either choosing or rejecting me. Your perspective may, of course, differ.

thinktubes 

If you really want it, meet the seller halfway and put in a firm, final cash offer of $265.

longbeachgary

Too late.

yiffzer

Yes, too late. Too late for others because I got it!

To be honest, I wouldn't have gone if I hadn't gotten some reassurance from some of you guys. When I got there and jumped on that thing, it was speaking to me. I thought the 33" standover height would be too high but it actually fits me like a glove, so to speak. It also looked better in person than the pictures. The crankset was not corroded at all actually. The paint looks fantastic except for some scratches here and there. The bike was actually tuned up recently but the owner did not ride it much for whatever reason. It stayed in the garage most of its life. The Armadillo tires are almost new, no more than 150 miles or so. Test riding it felt pretty comfortable and shifting was as expected. The brakes does need a little adjustment. The wheels appear to be true. I did notice a possibility of a very slight uneven roll on one of the wheels, I am hoping that it has something to do with the tires instead. We will see.

I couldn't find any serial markings for some reason but I'll post high quality upclose pictures soon.

Now, we did bargain over the price and settled at $275. The bike was already in such great condition and they were very kind people. They also wouldn't budge, really. I gladly accepted the price. I hope I did well.

agchopz

If it makes you want to ride everyday, you did well.

oddjob2

Nice to hear a Happy Ending. Enjoy!

BTW, make sure to rebuild the wheel and bb bearings.

yiffzer

I got a bit busy with real life but I took the liberty to take photos as promised.


Side view.


Corner view.


Logo indicates that it's at least in the late 1980s.


Shimano 105 Dia Compe brakes.


Specialized Turbo Sport Armadillo clincher tires.


Decals - obviously Criterium.


Shimano 105 downtube shifters.


Tange Levin headset.


Vetta saddle.


Shimano 105 crankset.

To be continued...

yiffzer

Second batch of photos.


Shimano quick release lever and decal.


Plenty of brake life left.


Shimano 105 hubs.


Shimano 105 rear derailleur.


Shimano 105 front derailleur.


Shimano SLR brake levers.


Nitto stem.


Wolber wheels.


SPK seatpost.


A little gunky.

To be continued...

yiffzer

And finally, the moment we've all been waiting for:



The serial number: 58102387312.

According to vintagecannondale.com, this indicates that this is a 58 cm frame that was built on October 23, 1987 and it was number 312 on the production line. I hope I'm correct. However, the most curious thing is that this bike comes closest to either the 1987 SR500 (https://www.vintagecannondale.com/year/1987/1987.pdf) or 1988 SR500 (https://www.vintagecannondale.com/year/1988/1988.pdf) line. I am leaning to 1988 because this bike has a SPK seatpost and Modolo anatomic handlebars whereas the 1987 line did not.

By far, this is the biggest bike I've ever owned (in comparison, my Surly Long Haul Trucker is 54 cm). I magically was able to stand over the top tube nonetheless. I love the bike even in its current state! When it gets cleaned up, I will post more pictures, God willing.

rccardr 

Nice. Take it apart and scrub it down, service the BB, hubs and headset, replace the tires and cables and you've got a keeper.

Careful with those top tube cable guides. At 25 years old, they're brittle and fragile and replacements cannot be found.

IthaDan 

Eh, my radius has shrunk considerably since getting a 'real' job. I saw this, but didn't have the time to chase it.

Nice bike OP, enjoy it.

yiffzer

I just drove through Ithaca, IthaDan. Nice, quaint city! You definitely can ride around. As for the surrounding wall of mountains, that's really a challenge. I was on the way to Rochester.

As for the tires -- these tires are just a hundred miles old. The previous owner bought it with new tires but didn't use it for a few years. They're still good now. As for the top cable guides, one was already loose. What's the proper way to get them glued?

oddjob2

That's why my LeJeune merely gathered rust rather than miles at Cornell. Those hills, oy!

A dab of clear silicon would work on the cable guide.

rccardr 

Old tires = hard tires. Best investment you can make in ride quality is a pair of tires in the $80/pair range. They may not be worn, but they're far from optimum.

Shoe goo will work better for the top tube cable guide. It's a stronger adhesive than most silicone seal products.

Bianchigirll 

"as required" but no full side view of the drive side?

yiffzer

My bad. I knew I messed up. I will put up new photos once it's back into shape.