Frankenator

Hello everyone,

This could possibly go into the pricing thread, but I'm looking for more general advice than just price info.

So I'm on a very limited budget at the moment, and I'm craving something to ride without spending a lot of $. I've been trying to research as much as I can while I have some free time, and I know there are so many variables that go into the bike itself let alone the relationship to the bike and rider regarding size/geometry/adjustability/etc.

Priorities:First, I just want to ride something now so I'm not having to borrow my brother's bike (and also we want to do some rides together). I want to get something that I can sell at a break even for when my budget increases for future upgrading. I know it seems ridiculous but there are cheap bikes around here and I really only want to start around $100 investment... like I mentioned that will end up changing, but for now that's just where I'm at. Any advice and guidance is greatly appreciated so I can help avoid any typical new guy mistakes when it comes to shopping and buying.

Here's what I'm currently looking at:
Vintage GIANT RS940 Road Bike for sale (Vintage GIANT RS940)
MEN'S SCHWINN TRAVELER III "Ultra Light" ROAD BIKE 10 SPEED (1987 original owner Schwinn Traveler iii I like the self powered lights for when I would ride at night here - not sure whether that feature is really valuable or not)
Light, fast Trek Hybrid. (newer Trek Hybrid).

(I'm 6' tall)

CannedPakes

That Giant is so tiny. How is too big for him if he's 5'8"?

The Schwinn looks pretty good.

The Trek looks sort of low end but of course it's a Trek so it shouldn't be bad.

Bikedued

The Giant is actually too small for the person selling it, so no way it would fit a 6 foot tall person. Nice bike for the money though. The Schwinn Traveler is also too small. You need something with a little more head tube.,,,,BD

Gasbag

This one Bike or this one Univega Gran Turismo should fit you.

I'm 6'1" with a 34" inseam and ride 58cm - 59cm

ramzilla

You got a pretty good selection up there. The Giant looks like it's the lightest probably got 700 wheels & tires. Schwinn looks good too. It probably has 27" tires.

Pars 

I'd have to agree with GasBag that if you are 6', the bikes in your original post appear to be too small for you (they all look like 52cm or so?). I'm not sure about hybrid sizing like the Trek though.

Frankenator

Thanks for the great assistance!

So when you have a bike frame size that's too small, I assume it throws comfort/efficiency benefits out the window? There's a busy flipper here I just found who moves a few hundred bikes per year, so I might see what the differences feel like and keep my money in my pocket as I learn more. Heading out to shop, and I'll post an update later.

Here's what he said in the email:

"We have many, many road bikes and hybrids at amazing deals and in all sizes.
We are showing bikes weekends only. We have over thirty 2013 Trek hybrids that retail for $660 plus tax with $60 rear rack starting at only $169.


Yes, bikes are available and I also have many others like it in all sizes.


Please call me before coming. This year I am liquidating due to the huge volume of bikes I have this year, close to 200 bikes. Many bikes are over $100 cheaper than last year.


Looking for a vintage or newer road bike, hybrid, or mtn bike or fixie? Come check out my enormous private collection, over 300 bikes. I have been buying (collecting) for years and it's time to sell! ALL bicycles are bike-store quality ONLY. I was a very picky buyer and you will appreciate the quality of what I have. Mechanic on-site to make sure the bike is ready to go. We put new tires, tubes, grip tape, and fully tune many of the bikes."

Gasbag

Incorrect frame sizing can cause knee injuries from stress on the joint. It's not kind to ankles or hips either.

Secondly, it effects pedaling efficiency and overall comfort.

Others here can articulate it better than I did, I am absolutely certain.

ramzilla

Size can be flexible on bikes with upright hybrid handlebars. But, if you're going to ride a bike with drop bars, correct size is critical. You want the distance between seat & handlebars to be just right. Not too long & not too short.

Frankenator

Thanks to the advice I avoided bikes that were poorly sized. I'm thinking you also learn to eyeball general size over time based on the head tube and seat tube size?

I see how much of a difference a few hundred bucks can make for my starter bike so I'm going to save up for a better first purchase.

Here's what I found that interested me - I don't know exactly what to look for in terms of model and make and useful/relevant info so I jotted down what I saw on a few of them:

Alpine tom mcGrew shimano unishift top shifter, santour Mountech derailer wheels maVic ma40 w 700s

Peugeot carbolite 103 Tire hs310 28-622

$299 Bianchi premio 1986-87 tange chro mo 22.5 frame. Tires 700"x25" serfas seca FPS sigunio vp crank santor 4050 derailer

Lotus 300 R triple butted Chromo $240 p.m. series



Sorry if the photos are out of order, I'm just getting the hang of the forum.

My goal is to learn better what you guys look for when shopping... what tends to matter? As always, thanks in advance!

randyjawa 

That is the way to go, unless, of course, something really special comes along that one cannot pass up. Of course, you need to know a good bicycle from a not so good bicycle.

Have a look at Vintage Bicycle Quality to get a head start on learning what to look for in the quality department. And remember, vintage road bicycles, the really good ones, are pretty fragile, when compared to most other styles. With that in mind, take the time to study Component Damage and
Frame/Fork Damage.

That should prepare you to critique a potential purchase. Of course, you need to know a bit about actually buying a bicycle and that information is contained in Buying and Selling Vintage Bicycles.

If you see a good deal, strike and strike fast. With all the on-line flipper out there, and here, sitting in front of my computer, you have to move quickly, cash in hand, to score a really good deal. And, since you are at it, why not take a moment to learn How To Find Vintage Bicycles?

Frankenator

Randy those links look like great resources - I look forward to reading all that I can now that I've bought some more time. I'll post an update after I get back on the hunt with some more money, thanks!

TheLibrarian

I'm not 100% sure many things matter much. 1 thing that certainly matters is that the bike is in good working condition. Check the shifting. had a friend recently got a bike from his cousin and paid him $100 even. It was a cheap department store schwinn in the first place. Derailuers are messed up, it doesn't shift well and the chain can even come off. I'm sure there are adjustments that might help it but. Might even have to do with his gear choices tho too. He's a bit prideful and now i suspect he may have had it all the way to the right up front so he can max it out in the back to be cool. The cross tension may be stressing the derailuer even more, when it falls off it falls off to the inside of the back gears. He says he got angry when he walked into the bike shop and they tried to sell him something for thousands of dollars. So did I but i'm glad i spent a little more to get something that at least works. Take it for a test drive. If there are flats or other things preventing you from a full inspection then fix that 1st or move along.

Frankenator

So with a little patience, my budget increased - and with a little more time to think about what I wanted in a bike I was able to come to a decision. I just purchased a Specialized Allez which appears to be a 2010 model "Sport" (I think compact). I believe that's the year based on the fact the tubes don't have the smooth welds yet with that body style... is that right? There's not a scratch on the bike.

It's a 58cm with a 58.5cm top tube, and I really enjoy the feel and ride. The bike was $400 from my old hometown bike shop (popped in while on vacation this weekend) and it came with a tune up and full/thorough fitting (plus some riding coaching and body positioning / pedal tempo insights etc etc). I'm hoping the deal is a good one financially, but, regardless, I now have a bike I WANT to ride so the extra few bucks I might have spent are worth it to me. It had the pump and cateye computer on it as well. I think it's the stock groupset from Shimano which has no specific name that I can find from looking at the gear.

Anyway, here's a quick photo... and I was wearing my red shoes and shirt when I stopped in the shop so it seemed like an extra good fit on the color chart

gugie 

Hey, you rode it, you like it, who are we to say anything bad about it? It's not very C&V (IMO), but who cares? $400 looks like a great deal, and you got it from a local bike shop (LBS), they fitted you, gave you some good tips, so I give it a...

The Golden Boy 

Double

The big point is getting a bike that fits you, that's comfortable, and makes you want to be on it!

Best!

Frankenator

I tried to reply earlier from my phone, but the post kept messing up when I accidentally swyped backwards. That's funny this ended up as the result of a classic and vintage thread :-)

I can say that I felt like a much more confident and informed consumer having read Randy's entire vintage bike site that he posted links to. It also helped me evaluate the goals and wants/needs for my first purchase. I wouldn't be surprised if I get a classic bike for around town as well... the addiction is setting in! Thanks everyone!

ramzilla

Man, that Lotus looks really sweet. If you could get that down closer to $200 might not be such a bad deal.

Last ride 76 

Either way, as long as you ride! I should know... You can branch out later, or not. See how it goes. To have a bike you want to ride, and riding it. That's a good start!

Cheers, Eric

timtak

It would be interesting to know how much you, the OP, ride it in your first year. Those vintage bikes have steel frames which flex, whereas the frame on your allez will, I think, hardly flex at all.

In my limited experience, of aluminium vs carbon, the former was not a good idea for loosing weight. It was a bit like light-weight non-cushioned running shoes, when carrying a few pounds, running on tarmac. I needed the thick soled running shoes (alike) cushioning of carbon. I sill rarely use my aluminium bike. I am thinking of swapping the forks, seatpost, stem, and possibly handle bars for carbon, which if you find the Allez ride a bit harsh, like being juddered in a stone tumbler, you may consider too.

Frankenator

Ramzilla - the bike turnaround here is crazy from what I've seen while shopping - that Lotus is long gone by now, and I bet someone paid his full asking price.

Timtak, I've only been able to put a few handfuls of miles on the bike with the busy holiday weekend and work being backed up. Fortunately the trails nearby are fantastic (where I plan on doing most of my riding). However, as I increase my mileage and ride time I'll finally have a baseline with this aluminum Allez to compare future bikes to in terms of comfort... especially as I wander into the city streets where the conditions are much worse surface-wise.

In the meantime, I'm looking forward to learning more and "enjoying the ride" as I go along in this great sport/hobby - pun intended :-)

gugie 

Stiff frames are highly over-rated, IMO, and have been pushed by industry for decades. The thing that is not understood is where doest that flex go? It's a spring. Any energy loss would have to be accounted for as heat. To my knowledge, no one has ever done that, and I've never felt a frame getting warm just from being ridden. What's important is how the bike feels underneath you. I'm 6'1, 200lbs, and the bike that seems to go faster than any other is my 73 Raleigh Competition. It flexes more than most of my other bikes. Jan Heine at Bicycle Quarterly believes the right frame will "flex back" at a key moment in your stroke. I thought it was a bunch of hooey until I rode my Competition for the first time up a hill. Now I think there's something to it - the right amount of flex may be what you're after. I would like to see some scientific study on this.

mstateglfr 

Perhaps I have low standards. Perhaps the bikes I ride magically don't apply.
I ride 63-65cm steel frames and just don't notice my frames flexing when compared to an aluminum bike. It probably is and I just don't notice it? Like I said, I may have low standards.
I can ride just as long and just as fast as everyone I ride with, and I don't think I feel like I rode twice as hard to make up for lost power due to a flexing frame.

70s/80s/90s bikes, especially those from Japan and Taiwan, are very easy to work on and maintain. The oft rep is that they area ton. My size and the bike I ride should apparently be like riding on a cooked noodle, according to some comments.
Its just not the case.

timtak

Maybe one day we will realise that aluminium bikes were all a big mistake!?

https://www.exploratorium.edu/cycling/frames2.html
"Aluminum is an interesting material. You can't really let it flex, because the more it gets to bend the quicker it reaches the end of its life. That's why you see a lot of aluminum frames today that have very large diameter tubing. That's to limit the flexing that happens as you ride the bike."

This article claims to be scientific, comes to the same conclusion as us (stiff is not good) but does not provide hard data.
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/...ame-stiffness/

Some steel flexes more than others (see the above article). I haven't ridden steel since I was a kid but I would like to try a Reynolds tubing bike now. Perhaps, since like you say it lasts a long time, it would be my last bike.

Does your bike use "chromoly" tubing with varying thickness? There are steel bikes made with "drainpipes" and there are flexy ones made with Reynolds and Columbus tubing.

I read that steel can be more flexible than carbon
Why You Should be Riding Steel and not Carbon | Road Bike News, Reviews, and Photos | Page 3

It seems to me that the difference between my carbon and aluminium frames is very difficult to miss.
@Frankenator
But that was especially the case when using a long 27.2 mm carbon seat post, with shim as need be. When you hit the city streets a carbon fork may help too.

gugie 

I don't think aluminum bikes are a mistake, you can make them flexible as well. The Vitus frames of the 80's were all aluminum and famously flexy.

You can modulate stiffness with material and/or tubing size/shape. You could design a carbon fiber bike to emulate any steel frame if you wanted. You could make a large diameter steel tubed bike very stiff. Tubing manufacturers are now making sets in different diameters to allow the frame builder to do just that. you see aluminum and carbon fiber bikes with frames designed to be laterally stiff, but vertically more compliant.

The question is "how much flex"? If you're 6'7" and 400 lbs, a very stiff oversized aluminum frame may be just the ticket, whereas the 5'4" 145 lb rider might think it to ride like an ox cart.

And I'm still looking for someone to rig up a frame with a lot of sensors to prove/disprove the planing theory.