hibit

Hi everyone,

Found this one in the garbage a few days ago.
Was looking at https://home.wanadoo.nl/peugeotshow/ but couldn't find any bike with the same specs. Have a look at: https://www.yamm.nl/bike/index.html For more images.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank's
Yam

Poguemahone

Late sixties Pug, by serial number and decals, around 67-9 or so. Looks like an AO8, an entry level model. neat find.

hibit

Thanks Poguemahone! I was actually hoping it was a 60's bike (-:

I have already dismantled the bike and started cleaning/ restoring it. Will post some pics when I make progress.

One thing I can't figure out are the gearshift levers. They look original and fit the rest of the gear; however the frame has a gearshift braze-on on the right side of the down tube but none on the left. At first I thought it only had rear gears however there are brazed-on cable guides on both sides at the bottom of the down tube near the BB. Any ideas?

I am thinking of painting the bike black. Do you know what was the norm with lugs on dark painted 60's Pugs? Just a gold or silver line around the lugs?
Do you by any chance have an idea where I might find some appropriate decals?

Cheers,
Yam

Grand Bois

Look here:

https://www.yellowjersey.org/peudecal.html

The ones labled 1974?, 1975? are very close to what you need and appear to be exactly what I need for my 1974 PX10. The picture shows a double set. If they're actually selling a double set for $85, you could buy them and sell me half of the set for $42.50.

I don't understand what you're saying about the braze on for the rear shifter. I thought everything was clamp on in the '60s and besides, I see a Prestige front derailer in the picture.

John E

I vote for early 1970s. The black head lugs, lack of a Reynolds 531 decal, and cottered crankset say "PA-10" to me. Does it have an integral derailleur hanger? If yes, it's a PA-10. If not, then it probably is either a late 1960s AO-8 with quick release added or a UO-8 of that vintage. The fork has been replaced; any Peugeot above an AO-8 would have had half-chrome forks during that era.

avenan

Not too uncommon, 60's/early 70's Simplex shifter arrangement. The right shift is brazed on, and the left is on a band that wraps around the braze on.

If you're keeping the cranks, make sure to fix that drive side cotter. Losing a crank while riding is not fun. (trust me!)

Poguemahone

John, I've seen early UOs/AOs with painted lugs. A UO8 is certainly possible, should the fork be a change over (the colour is a nice match). I'm not sure when the single braze ons came in; they were a feature on some lower end bikes from Peugeot. Certainly on early seventies UOs. The decals and what looks to me like a six digit serial number point to late sixties to me. I would look for the integral derailleur hanger, as John E suggests. It would point to a PA10.

John E

Did not the AO-8/UO-8 always have distinctive lugs with stepped cutouts? These sure look like 1970s P_-10 series lugs to me. The single brazed-on shifter boss is definitely an AO-8/UO-8 feature and definitely not a PR-10/PX-10 feature; I just cannot recall whether the PA-10 had one or not. Yes, the integral derailleur hanger will be the clincher.

The high-flange QR hubs are definitely a UO-8 or higher feature; every AO-8 I have seen came with low-flange [wing]nutted hubs.

hibit

Thanks Dirtdrop, I haven’t decided yet if to restore the bike to complete original condition, or just to paint it nicely and ride it happily. Will sure let you know if I decide to go for the decals. Also have a look at: https://ourworld.compuserve.com/homep...cals.htm#Order
They have a down tube block and head tube logo in gold (80's probably).

John E: I'm afraid it doesn’t have an integral derailleur hanger: https://www.yamm.nl/bike/13.jpg
As for the fork, It looks to be the exact same color (I scraped..) as on the frame. Will know more when I strip off the paint off, hopefully on the weekend.

avenan: Thanks for the explanation. I guess I'll either have to find a correct shifter or let the braze-on get a taste of my dremel.
I am aware of the loose cotter (-: Got new ones today, had no problem getting the correct French size. Now removing the old cotters....

The S/N is six digits.
I think it looks now as if it is indeed a late 60's UO-8, Although a PA10 would have been nicer -;

Finished work on the brakes in the meantime. The bike shop owner found an exact Wiennman lying around, and impressed by the amount of degreaser I bought through it in for spare parts, which turned out to be very helpful. Everything looks in good condition under the dirt. Cleaned the front wheel to find very little surface corrosion. Hope to post some more photos soon.

Yam

stupferich2003

nice ride dude.... email me at stupferich2003@yahoo.com if u ever want to sell her.... thanks, james

USAZorro

I have one of the clamps (and I think the shifter) for that half braze, half clamp arrangements. I have nothing to use it on, and would be willing to let you have it for what I paid for it - $5.00 plus postage. Send me PM if you are interested.

John E

Very interesting bike. It has the simple black lugs and tight-ratio gearing of a PA-10, but with no derailleur hanger or fork chrome, I concur that it probably is an AO-8. The good news is that it probably does predate 1970. It may be a Canadian or European model; a PA-10 on eBay has the "3 tubes renforces" Reynolds 531 main triangle that I would normally expect to see only on a PR-10 and PKN-10.

Pougemahone -- It looks like you win this round of "name that Peugeot."

hibit

"It may be a Canadian or European model"
It is a European model!
VERY sorry I forgot to mention, didn't even cross my mind.... I live in the Netherlands (See: "Location: Amsterdam") and the bike was found on the streets of Amsterdam leaning against a trash collection point (In Holland "big" trash is collected on curtain days only). The bike still has the original importers sticker, and seems to me that it has never been used for commuting (lack of stand, rear wheel lock, light and any other common Dutch city bike modifications). I'll try and post the full specs tomorrow, now that the bike is clean enough to actually see what's under the dirt.

Y

Poguemahone

Do I get a no-prize?

John, I wouldn't worry about it-- I can recall you ably correcting some of my many mistakes in the past. The good thing about this board is the wealth of knowledge, plus the way everyone here seems interested in gaining more knowledge rather than massaging their egos... for instance, this thread taught me the one braze on thing happened pretty early, and the aztec stepped lug are likely early 70's (I know later 70's ones did not have them). I'm no expert, I just play one on the internet. I'd say this is the most civil board I've ever been a part of, so thanks for your part...

Hibit, it's a cool ride. A neat find, and you can't beat the price.

If USAZ doesn't have the shifter, PM me, I can likely dig one up. Removing old cotters is best done with the proper tool, but can be done w/ a hammer and a properly cut block of wood. Spray penetrating oil in the old cotter and let it soak overnight either way.

bbqboy

Registered: Sep 2005

I have a metallic green AO8/UO8 (RECORD DU MONDE) that looks like your bike, exact same seat tube sticker, with large flange Sunshine hubs and the "Frank Lloyd Wright Styled" Step Cut-outs in the lugs. Front fork is chromed, but now pitted.

The serial stamped on the dropout on mine are staggered, it says: "11 9 03 20", I have no idea how to read this for a date.
On the bottom of the BB lug is stamped "RY F4"

The bike has the MAFAC RACER centerpull brakes, aluminum Sugino cotterless 171mm Cranks with 52/40 teeth, Suntour GT Derailleur, Simplex plastic/stainless downtube shifters and a metal seat post. The handlebar stem on mine had been upgraded to an SR Forged, but not by me, however the handlebar is not a drop but an easy rider.

This bike has options like white cable piping, full narrow painted(white) fenders (possibly factory) and a rear mounted generator for a headlight and taillight as well as a chomed rear rack(which looks very French and could be factory as well).

This was given to me around 20 years ago and left it to rot in the rain, under a tree as I had left my hometown to work abroad. Now, that I have returned, I am in the process of cleaning it up, there is some rust here and there and could be used as a beater, but it just looks too cool and for a steel framed bike, it is unseemingly light in weight and yet smooth for the ride.

I will post a picture as soon as I can withn a few days.

hibit

Hi All,

Poguemahone , I couldn't agree more. I have learned so much in the last week, and all in great spirits. I can't tell you how good it feels to be able to ask all those questions as a newbie without the fear of sounding ignorant. It is the beginning of the road for me as far as old bikes are concerned, and a very encouraging one.

Back to the bike:
Progress made, have a look at the pics. I find myself getting working on the wreck twice as much as I planned and developing a serious degreaser dependency (-:
Front wheel was alot of work but now all done including hub packed with new balls.
Brakes cleaned, polished, and fitted with new pads and any new nuts and bolts I could find that fit.
Stem and handle bar cleaned and polished as well as the chain, shift gear levers and some other bits and pieces.
Next on: rear wheel, derailers, BB and headset, that should provide me with enough work time to solve the color scheme dilemma I'm in (currently black or blue )

Does anybody know if the Huret derailers were original equipment on this model Pug? I have a feeling they were replacing the original Simplex ones hence the add-on gearshift levers.

Question: the rims have thick rubber rim strips which are a bit old by now, I’d like to replace them but all I can get is modern rim tape. Do you know if it would do the job? Any tips on that?

Sorry for not posting more details yet- Was too busy working on the bike.

Cheers,
Y

lotek 

hehe, welcome to the world of old bikes. . . I get serious
degreaser jones. . .

answer to question, new rim tape will work fine.

Very nice job, There is something elegant about high flange hubs
that is sublime. keep the pics coming
Marty

Poguemahone

It looks to me like you have several replacement/upgrades on the bike. The original SImplex mechs were notorious for breakage, hence the replacement. Stock brakes would have been Mafac centerpulls. Stem possibly a replacement as well. On the other hand, the rims look right (dimpled steel), but I can't tell for sure without actually seeing the bike.

I have a higher level Peugeot from the same period. One of the reasons early Peugeots are harder to identify is the stock parts group was fairly similar across the Peugeot line, with Mafac brakes and Simplex mechs. Some other components, like the headsets and Cranks, varied a bit more, as well as a number of frame details.

You can still get the rubber strips if you want. I'm not sure of European sources, but biketoolsetc.com carries them stateside, and I assume (uh-oh) they can be found in Europe. Since your rims are steel, I'd stick to the rubber ones-- cloth rim tape can hold moisture, and thus get rust rolling a bit faster on steel rims. However, if you're considering making the bike a rider, I would consider finding appropriately sized alloy rims-- your braking will be much better, especially in the rain.

wasabiboys

Rim Tape Buy some new ones or Use Black Electrical Tape is really bad...Or if it aint broke leave it...Single Speed or Fixie Conversion Maybe@!

hibit

Thanks for the rim tape advice, already in place on the front wheel.
Lotek: I am with you on the high flanges, always liked them. They give the front of the bike a more aggressive look.
Poguemahone: The simplex were definitely replaced and according to what I read that is a good thing, although I am not sure if those Hurets can be considered an upgrade (-:
I just finished rebuilding the front derailleur and it wasn't a pretty sight... Guess they'll have to do for a while. If I do however decide to replace them: If going for a period correct replacement: will Suntour be the best choice? If so- which model? Will any modern derailleur work with my setup?
I do believe the brakes and stem are original though, I looked at the Dutch manuals (those are the manuals from the importer this bike came from actually - still has the sticker) and if you look at the small print carefully you can see that some models at that period actually came with the Altenburger synchrons. Same for the pivo stem.

Will update with some fresh photos tomorrow – in the meantime have a look at the Raleigh I found the other night. Amsterdam is bike heaven; it’s amazing what people here just throw away.

Y

takara14

Suntour would be a good choice. It was the upgrade many shops made back in those days. On the front, a Suntour Spirt would be in the spirit of the bike and times. At the rear, the steel Suntour Honor or GT are good candidates. These are typical of what would be found on intro level bikes.

If you want something a bit dressier and lighter, look for a Suntour SL at the front and Suntour V-GT at the rear. The later V-GT-Luxe is fine too, unless you're really a stickler for period correctness.

The Spirt and SL will need a short length of tubing and a cable stop on the downtube to operate.

Suntours of the period don't have a spring loaded top pivot. The short cage V and V-Luxe won't handle a 14-28 freewheel gracefully if you have the typical 40-52 front. Experience speaking here! I changed to a 14-24 and things worked much better. The Shimano and Simplex short cage models should work fine with the 14-28. Good luck and have fun!!

John Suntour

No matter where you go, there you are.

hibit

Thanks Takara, I will start with the current Hurets and hunt for replacements in the meantime.

Disaster struck today: The crank and chaining wouldn't come off the axel. Took the poor thing to the bike shop (one I trust, he was also kind enough not to lough) and nothing helped. Since there was no other way of reaching the BB the axel had to be cut. The good news is that the cups are in good condition after heavy cleaning and that the frame is finally ready to be striped and painted, the bad news is that I have no axle - and a French coterred one no less.
Any Idea's before I result to buying a used cotter less Pug for the parts? Maybe I can find one with some sun tours


Thanks for all the help,
Y