Campagnolo Crank Crack......
#1
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Campagnolo Crank Crack......
I was cleaning my 72 Paramount, the one that has the $5 bike swap meet Campy NR crank spider. I noticed what appeared to be a crack on both sides where the crank arm blends into the spider. I know these are famous (or rather infamous) for this, and I recall reading somewhere if they are not too deep they can be filed or ground out to eliminate the stress of the tearing aluminum.
This particular crank set may be too far gone, but I have another with a miniscule crack. I think that one is still salvageable, but am definitely interested in hearing from those with more knowledge and experience than I have.
Remember, the crank pictured is the worst one. The first photo is viewed from the outside, the second from the inside.
As always, thanks in advance for your advice!
This particular crank set may be too far gone, but I have another with a miniscule crack. I think that one is still salvageable, but am definitely interested in hearing from those with more knowledge and experience than I have.
Remember, the crank pictured is the worst one. The first photo is viewed from the outside, the second from the inside.
As always, thanks in advance for your advice!
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#2
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a semi-related quasi-anecdote - there was a bulk lot of 50+ cracked strada cranks on ebay a couple of years ago. Went for next to nothing.
- Joel
- Joel
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pretty typical for a campy crank (hope the cycling gods don't
strike me down for that), that particular area is a stress riser
and that is a well documented crack.
I believe that filing the edge so it isn't so sharp relieves it?
do a search of CR archives lots of threads about that.
marty
strike me down for that), that particular area is a stress riser
and that is a well documented crack.
I believe that filing the edge so it isn't so sharp relieves it?
do a search of CR archives lots of threads about that.
marty
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Crap, can't correct Campy crank crack. Can complain, couldn't continue cycling creatiing crumby criterium casting creepy kunundrum thus circumventing century.
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Originally Posted by hiromian
Crap, can't correct Campy crank crack. Can complain, couldn't continue cycling creatiing crumby criterium casting creepy kunundrum thus circumventing century.
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nice lugs baby!
nice lugs baby!
#7
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If that is the worst crack, fix it. Grind out the crack, check with a crack penetrant that you are down to uncracked metal, if not, grind again. Round out that region to minimise stress raisers and ride. Done that several times (to different cranks, including a Suntour Superbe but most commonly Campag).
#8
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Originally Posted by Rabid Koala
I was cleaning my 72 Paramount, the one that has the $5 bike swap meet Campy NR crank spider. I noticed what appeared to be a crack on both sides where the crank arm blends into the spider. I know these are famous (or rather infamous) for this, and I recall reading somewhere if they are not too deep they can be filed or ground out to eliminate the stress of the tearing aluminum.
This particular crank set may be too far gone, but I have another with a miniscule crack. I think that one is still salvageable, but am definitely interested in hearing from those with more knowledge and experience than I have.
Remember, the crank pictured is the worst one. The first photo is viewed from the outside, the second from the inside.
As always, thanks in advance for your advice!
This particular crank set may be too far gone, but I have another with a miniscule crack. I think that one is still salvageable, but am definitely interested in hearing from those with more knowledge and experience than I have.
Remember, the crank pictured is the worst one. The first photo is viewed from the outside, the second from the inside.
As always, thanks in advance for your advice!
File out with a rat's tail file, until the crack is gone. in this case the crack seems too long already to do that. Filing out was also done before a crack was there, as preventive measure.
#9
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Are these post-'78 cranks?
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#10
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Originally Posted by LWaB
If that is the worst crack, fix it. Grind out the crack, check with a crack penetrant that you are down to uncracked metal, if not, grind again. Round out that region to minimise stress raisers and ride. Done that several times (to different cranks, including a Suntour Superbe but most commonly Campag).
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1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
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Attempt filing it, use a find file, and sand smooth. Might try a chain saw chain file. The very late Super Record cranks changed the way material was distributed at this region. The very very early cranks machined this regional "crack zone" away.
The cranks I have seen first hand that have failed big time failed at or near the pedal hole and at the shield logo, usually with visible localized polishing from toe straps or ankles first.
The cranks I have seen first hand that have failed big time failed at or near the pedal hole and at the shield logo, usually with visible localized polishing from toe straps or ankles first.
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interesting, I just checked a bunch of my cranks and see very small cracks on them. The pre 72's look pretty good and savable with a bit of filing. the 84s look smoothed out in that area and okay, the 77's seem to be the worst (and the shortest at 170mm) and I have yet to check the 1980 180mms.
Edit: These are all record crank sets and all different lengths so I was curious to see deiferences.
Edit: These are all record crank sets and all different lengths so I was curious to see deiferences.
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Last edited by cyclotoine; 09-27-06 at 02:59 PM.
#13
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I got a carbide grinding bit for my Dremel today. I will give that a go and polish it out then check for cracks. I don't have any dye for finding the crack, but I likely can improvise with a Sharpie and a little more polishing. I also have one of those jewelers loupe things to get a better look.
I have two other cranksets on bikes. One has very few miles on it and the other one has seen lots of miles.
I am just glad I noticed it before disaster struck.
I have two other cranksets on bikes. One has very few miles on it and the other one has seen lots of miles.
I am just glad I noticed it before disaster struck.
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#14
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Originally Posted by lotek
pretty typical for a campy crank (hope the cycling gods don't
strike me down for that), ...
strike me down for that), ...
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Originally Posted by John E
I recently cracked a left Campag. Veloce crank on the shoulder of the spindle eye.
Also curious...has anybody continued riding above mentioned cracking Campy cranks?
Do they eventually fail at those cracks? Or are the cracks merely cosmetic?
Just wondering, because I have a set w/cracks (not on a bike) and had been hoping to use them eventually.
Thanks for any input in that regard. Dr. D
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I read the thread title and thought that drinking the Campy Kool-Aid was bad enough, but now you guys had found a way to smoke the stuff, too.
#17
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Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron
Also curious...has anybody continued riding above mentioned cracking Campy cranks?
Do they eventually fail at those cracks? Or are the cracks merely cosmetic?
Do they eventually fail at those cracks? Or are the cracks merely cosmetic?
#18
feros ferio
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Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron
Or overtightening?
Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron
Was that due to wrong crank/spindle combination?
---- Dr. John
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#19
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Well, I played around with the Dremel last night. I used a carbide grinding bit. I think I got through the crack, though it needs more cleaning and polishing than I had time for.
I did use the jewelers loupe to look at the cracks, and a that magnification they look like the Grand Canyon. So far, 4 out of my 5 Campy crank sets have the cracks to varying degrees.
Crap.
I did use the jewelers loupe to look at the cracks, and a that magnification they look like the Grand Canyon. So far, 4 out of my 5 Campy crank sets have the cracks to varying degrees.
Crap.
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#20
Unique Vintage Steel
Looks like my 86-ish Campagnolo S.Record crank has some minor cracks as well. I'll be breaking out the dremel next week to clean them up. I tried to take some photos but being night and having to use the flash they were difficult to see in the photos. Though they don't look nearly as bad as the 70's Strada posted above.
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#22
Unique Vintage Steel
yup, Campy cranks with cracks left and right. I'm going to take a dremel to mine, they don't look as developed as those you have there.
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I think yours was easier to do than mine.