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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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Old 01-13-16, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
@redfoxdogs - your bike's a real gem. I've read his blog before, and I'm so inspired by the before & after of the bikes he does. Lucky to have someone like that in your neighborhood.
John is a very nice guy too!
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Old 01-13-16, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Thanks. It's hard to see but I have black fenders on it. They're SKS 20" fenders often used for recumbents.
Saw that when I put my glasses back on....
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Old 01-13-16, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Narhay
I finished this 1972 Superbe up. It had some issues with stripped pedal threads in the drive side crank arm but my new Hozan taps cleaned that up nicely. I added a pletscher rack from the co-op as it was missing the original colour matched rack.

The gumwalls do look good with the green. I like them on some colors too. I chose them for my burgundy colored Sprite.
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Old 01-13-16, 05:54 PM
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Brooks Saddle,
Picked this used B17 up today for a reasonable $20. It's missing the nose tensioner clasp but I think Urbane Cycles has this piece.
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Old 01-13-16, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
The gumwalls do look good with the green. I like them on some colors too. I chose them for my burgundy colored Sprite.
Looks brand new
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Old 01-13-16, 06:04 PM
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@redfoxdogs That came out beautifully. Rather spectacular looking bike. Well worth a little extra washing IMO.
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Old 01-13-16, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
I think it may just be an American thing to just throw our arms up in despair and call all British threads Witworth. I always figured that it was something they did to us out of spite, like positive ground batteries.
Yeah.
Positive Earth was a strange idea. There must have been a reason for it, but it's obscured by time now.
My first car had a sticker under the bonnet, that said "This vehicle is wired NEGATIVE EARTH", as a reminder.
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Old 01-13-16, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dweenk
Don't forget Lucas electricals. My late father-in-law had 3 Triumph TR-3's. He said it took three to keep one running. That TR-3 had the largest steering wheel that I had ever seen - you needed the leverage to steer at low speed and park.
I think the 'Prince of Darkness' comment came from the vehicle electrics side of things. As far as I know, the Lucas bicycle electrical bits were OK.?
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Old 01-13-16, 06:33 PM
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@Narhay - are those new aluminum rims or original steel? Gorgeous. That's my size too.
@gster - nice score. Looks to be broken in. What do you plan on using it on?
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Old 01-13-16, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
@Narhay - are those new aluminum rims or original steel? Gorgeous. That's my size too.
@gster - nice score. Looks to be broken in. What do you plan on using it on?
Not sure yet. It could go on my everyday bike, a 1971 Hercules which currently has a very comfortable vintage Dunlop composite saddle. I much prefer old broken in saddles over the new ones, both on price and comfort.
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Old 01-13-16, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Me too. Still have the 70 Bonnie I bought so many years ago. Hasn't been on the road for years. Someday...
Sold my 70 Thunderbolt a few years back....still have a hand in the two wheel motorized world though.
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Old 01-13-16, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
@Narhay - are those new aluminum rims or original steel? Gorgeous. That's my size too.
Thanks. Much better than it sitting in my storage locker. Those are new CR18 aluminum rims. I reused the spokes but used new brass nipples.

I did find the correct stem for it (steel, raleigh stamped) but I don't really want to take the handlebars apart to replace the existing one.

The pump is a cheap Sunlite pump. It doesn't pump very well at all but it might be enough to mostly get home. It is more for show and to use the pump pegs.

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Old 01-13-16, 08:34 PM
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Saddle refinishing

Originally Posted by kikaso
To borrow a term from Grant Peterson, that saddle has got some great beausage!.
Great word , it looks like it should sound french. There is a footnote to why this saddle looks the way it does. After being forgotten for decades the leather was still supple and in sound condition, but the surface finish was scuffed and dried out. It was the kind of problem that leaves a smudge on the seat of your pants every time you go for a ride . Here is a method that can fix this. First, wash the saddle with a mild solution of dish soap, and let dry over night. Next, apply a coat or two of Kiwi Scuff Magic, which is liquid shoe polish. This will even out the color. Next, apply two coats of satin finish acrylic urethane with a clean cloth, leaving adaquate drying time in between coats.This is a waterborn clear finish usually applied to wood surfaces. It is flexible when dry, and will not darken your leather(very important to me). Now apply some Proofide that has been heated into a liquid and work it into the underside of the leather. It will absorb deeper and faster as a liquid. The leather is now sealed on the top, conditioned on the underside, and ride ready. It will not look new, but will look like what it is.
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Old 01-13-16, 09:23 PM
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I'm thinking of building new wheels for "Kathy", my 1978 original owner Raleigh Sport. It has the original wheels which are in nice shape. However for new wheel (front) I was thinking of using a mid-'70's G6 front Dynohub. I know the Superbes came with the front Dynohub, along with color matched rear rack, and locking fork. Would it be inappropriate for my modest Sport to have a G6 on the front? My sport is sort of unique, in that it's the warm silver with ocean blue head tube & seat post decals.

Opinions welcome.
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Old 01-13-16, 09:33 PM
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What! Demand that it be so!
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Old 01-13-16, 09:51 PM
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I think Brooks saddles and dyno hubs go with vintage Raleighs like bread and butter. Besides, you already have the skills to make them work. Might as well put them to good use.
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Old 01-13-16, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
I'm thinking of building new wheels for "Kathy", my 1978 original owner Raleigh Sport. It has the original wheels which are in nice shape. However for new wheel (front) I was thinking of using a mid-'70's G6 front Dynohub. I know the Superbes came with the front Dynohub, along with color matched rear rack, and locking fork. Would it be inappropriate for my modest Sport to have a G6 on the front? My sport is sort of unique, in that it's the warm silver with ocean blue head tube & seat post decals.

Opinions welcome.
I think it would look and work pretty nicely. Of course, you'll need the headlight as well.
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Old 01-14-16, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Narhay
I think it would look and work pretty nicely. Of course, you'll need the headlight as well.
I concur. Anything goes.
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Old 01-14-16, 07:30 PM
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@velocixien

Pics or it never happened! Well, to put it another way I'd love to compare your Sport to my 79 Tourist.
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Old 01-14-16, 08:20 PM
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Another Cargo
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Old 01-14-16, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by erileykc
@velocixien

Pics or it never happened! Well, to put it another way I'd love to compare your Sport to my 79 Tourist.
Let's keep it clean, please.
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Old 01-14-16, 11:30 PM
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Ok. I can post this 1978 Sport. Not where I have access to photos now. I'm just thinking​ about building a dynohub wheel. It's not gonna happen right away.
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Old 01-15-16, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Fidbloke
I think most of the threads on older Nottingham bikes are BSF.
The current ISO bicycle thread standard is based on the old BSC (British Standard Cycle).

The threads on the Sturmey Archer Dynohubs are actually BA (British Associated). The terminals are 2BA and the four nuts that hold the thing together are 6BA.

During my apprenticeship, we were taught about all these as completely separate thread forms and it confused the hell out of me when I first looked at Bike Forums and everyone kept talking about bikes having 'Whitworth' theads. To me, Whitworth threads are very coarse threads used on the huge bolts which held steam engines and Battleships together.!

It's possible that the cotter pins might be 1/4" Whitworth, as they look quite coarse, but I'm pretty certain that everything else on a Raleigh is BSF.
I've since Googled this and found that someone has lumped all the old British threads together under the name Whitworth. I can't see how that helps anyone... (Grrr!)

Anyway, that's my rant over.
Most of us use the term "Whitworth" for anything that uses the same size nut and bolt sizes--the tools, mainly. The threading is another story. I believe Raleigh used 26tpi instead of 24tpi, but the heads of the fasteners are the same, so if one gets a set of Whitworth tools one has a fighting chance of not rounding off all of the nuts and bolt heads. Every now and then someone will get lucky and score a set of old Snap-On Whitworth tools. Hasn't been me, yet.
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Old 01-15-16, 07:04 AM
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https://raleighbicycles.wordpress.co...ents-roadster/
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Old 01-15-16, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by gna
Most of us use the term "Whitworth" for anything that uses the same size nut and bolt sizes--the tools, mainly. The threading is another story. I believe Raleigh used 26tpi instead of 24tpi, but the heads of the fasteners are the same, so if one gets a set of Whitworth tools one has a fighting chance of not rounding off all of the nuts and bolt heads. Every now and then someone will get lucky and score a set of old Snap-On Whitworth tools. Hasn't been me, yet.
Forgive me, but I love posting this photo after a setup like that. Don't hate me. These were on the tool board at the shop where I used to work and I purchased them when the place closed down.
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