Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Raleigh brake cable availability?

Search
Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Raleigh brake cable availability?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-13-10, 11:21 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
AL NZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 265
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 6 Posts
Raleigh brake cable availability?

Has anyone found a source of the complete Raleigh brake cables with the bolt-on adjuster ferule for the caliper end?
My '55 4 speed came with what I assume are the colour-coded dark-green originals, but one day I will need some more.
I cannot find'em on UK ebay

Any leads...?
AL NZ is offline  
Old 11-14-10, 01:38 AM
  #2  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times in 339 Posts
I did see someone selling a few of those on the internet a month or two back. It might have been Yellow Jersey. At any rate, they had a few in one color and they were all rear brake cables, no front ones. Interesting, but not encouraging.

Probably more useful, there was a thread on making do without the very same cables, in this forum, maybe three months ago. I can't remember enough about it to do a search. Anyway, there were some useful suggestions there, including a cable knarp you can get from a lot of bike related internet sellers; it's not quite as attractive as the correct GB cable, but it'll do. Some people have success casting or soldering an end onto a cable; when I tried that, though, I could not make any kind of solder stick to the cable. Probably didn't have the right flux or something.
rhm is offline  
Old 11-14-10, 05:54 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
ftwelder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: vermont
Posts: 3,081

Bikes: Many

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 10 Posts
I am going to try casting the ends myself also. My older Raleighs have cloth covered housings.
ftwelder is offline  
Old 11-14-10, 06:24 AM
  #4  
perpetually frazzled
 
mickey85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Linton, IN
Posts: 2,467

Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
I've got one of those calipers on the front of my Lenton. I think my go-to move is going to be to just swap it out for a clamp-style caliper, to match the back one and be more serviceable, as I'd really care to ride this bike and not have to worry about a 60 year old brake cable.
mickey85 is offline  
Old 11-14-10, 06:45 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,177
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3817 Post(s)
Liked 6,742 Times in 2,625 Posts
I have some NOS double-ended rear brake cables with white ribbed housing. PM me if interested. Otherwise, using a standard cable and on the end that fits in the caliper arm, use a cable knarp as rhm said or crimp a small piece of brass tubing on the end. You can get that tubing at hobby shops and art supply stores.

Neal
nlerner is offline  
Old 11-14-10, 01:58 PM
  #6  
perpetually frazzled
 
mickey85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Linton, IN
Posts: 2,467

Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner
I have some NOS double-ended rear brake cables with white ribbed housing. PM me if interested. Otherwise, using a standard cable and on the end that fits in the caliper arm, use a cable knarp as rhm said or crimp a small piece of brass tubing on the end. You can get that tubing at hobby shops and art supply stores.

Neal
That would work if you had standard brake levers... I actually bought a set of knarps to try that when I bought the Lenton, then I looked at the brake lever - both sides take bullet-shaped (i.e. "road" style) cable ends, so a knarp wouldn't fit in it.
mickey85 is offline  
Old 11-14-10, 02:11 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,177
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3817 Post(s)
Liked 6,742 Times in 2,625 Posts
I've used the knarp for the caliper end, but I know what you're describing--there were at least two different fittings on the caliper side. On my '51 Clubman, I have brass tubing plus a blob of solder. It's not particularly pretty, but it seems to be holding.

Neal
nlerner is offline  
Old 11-14-10, 03:15 PM
  #8  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times in 339 Posts
I almost refrain from mentioning such a low-tech alternative, but you can tie a knot in a cable. The trick is to get it at exactly the spot where you want the knarp; then pull the cable as tight as possible, squeezing the knot together with pliers while pulling really hard from both ends. You'll end up with a knot about the size of the ball that was supposed to be cast onto the cable. It's a good idea to back that knot up with a second one, as close as possible to the first one (like, with nothing between them), then clip the loose end to about 1 cm and secure it with the stoutest cable end you have. A spoke nipple is good.
rhm is offline  
Old 12-24-10, 11:25 AM
  #9  
Cottered Crank
 
Amesja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,401

Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times in 8 Posts
I put the knarp at the caliper and use a standard brake cable in the original Raleigh cable housing and threaded adjuster (Although you could replace the housing with new material at this point since you are using a single-ended cable and it all is apart).

A spoke nipple above the knarp keeps the assembly from falling apart randomly on you leaving you with no brakes and replicates the Raleigh-branded lower "knob." If you shorten the nipple a little you can still pull it out of the caliper when you loosen the cable adjuster so that you can remove the wheel without moving the knarp.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
brakes 2.jpg (98.0 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg
Brakes.jpg (97.8 KB, 42 views)
Amesja is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
krecik
Bicycle Mechanics
34
05-08-19 02:48 AM
johnnyspaghetti
Classic & Vintage
12
08-03-17 08:37 AM
soletsky
Classic & Vintage
20
03-02-16 06:38 AM
r0ckh0und
Classic & Vintage
9
02-19-12 05:05 PM
tsappenfield
Classic & Vintage
3
06-01-10 06:12 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.