KHatfull's Aluminum Polishing Thread
07-29-14, 05:52 PM
#101
Senior Member
Okay, sorry I have one more dumb question then I'll stop!
Is rubbing alcohol okay to use on raw aluminum just for general cleaning? I had a couple of marks on it (for placing a decal) and then wiped the marks off with rubbing alcohol.
Thanks.
Is rubbing alcohol okay to use on raw aluminum just for general cleaning? I had a couple of marks on it (for placing a decal) and then wiped the marks off with rubbing alcohol.
Thanks.
07-29-14, 08:42 PM
#103
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Not much. Maybe make a little shinier. If it's "brushed" , you need to work up to "polished" in stages. That means progressively finer grits. If you want to attack it, go to the local auto parts store and get some red rubbing compound and white polishing compound. Go after your frame with the red first. Use lots of rags- old t-shirts work well. Expect to make a mess. Follow the red with the white. Expect more mess. Follow the white with the Mothers. Expect to be locked out of the house because of the mess you made. You'll be homeless, but your bike will be shiny.
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07-29-14, 10:07 PM
#104
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^ these help with the mess:
Amazon.com: Gojo 1432 Large Hi-Tactile Glove: Automotive
You can usually find something similar at auto parts stores. I wouldn't pay more than $8 though. (Retail price is listed at $28!?, but on sale for $7.47.) Not long ago I got a 6-pack of the Gojo Hi Tactile gloves linked above from my local Costco for a ridiculously low price, but their inventory changes frequently. Highly recommended for polishing work.
Amazon.com: Gojo 1432 Large Hi-Tactile Glove: Automotive
You can usually find something similar at auto parts stores. I wouldn't pay more than $8 though. (Retail price is listed at $28!?, but on sale for $7.47.) Not long ago I got a 6-pack of the Gojo Hi Tactile gloves linked above from my local Costco for a ridiculously low price, but their inventory changes frequently. Highly recommended for polishing work.
Last edited by gaucho777; 07-29-14 at 10:12 PM.
06-25-15, 09:55 PM
#105
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I realize that this is an old and ongoing post, but I just had to comment on how well this process works. I've done a pair of hubs, a rim and a crankset. While now show car quality, they certainly look great an a refurbished bike.
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01-10-16, 12:43 PM
#106
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This is a great thread, 
08-24-16, 02:03 AM
#107
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Just used this again
08-24-16, 09:59 AM
#108
Senior Member
Not much. Maybe make a little shinier. If it's "brushed" , you need to work up to "polished" in stages. That means progressively finer grits. If you want to attack it, go to the local auto parts store and get some red rubbing compound and white polishing compound. Go after your frame with the red first. Use lots of rags- old t-shirts work well. Expect to make a mess. Follow the red with the white. Expect more mess. Follow the white with the Mothers. Expect to be locked out of the house because of the mess you made. You'll be homeless, but your bike will be shiny.
05-27-17, 09:34 AM
#109
Fillet-Brazed Member
Another Bump
I was referred to this thread and had some pretty good luck starting on these Specialites T.A. Pro 5 Vis cranks. Thanks so much for the details. Does anyone know the best place to acquire Norton Black Ice Waterproof Sandpaper? Amazon has 50-sheet packs, it's $40-50 each, I might want a bit less, maybe 25 sheets, but more than 5 or 10.
More here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/specia...57681452632972
More here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/specia...57681452632972
05-27-17, 09:53 AM
#110
Senior Member
I was referred to this thread and had some pretty good luck starting on these Specialites T.A. Pro 5 Vis cranks. Thanks so much for the details. Does anyone know the best place to acquire Norton Black Ice Waterproof Sandpaper? Amazon has 50-sheet packs, it's $40-50 each, I might want a bit less, maybe 25 sheets, but more than 5 or 10.
05-27-17, 10:04 AM
#111
Senior Member
As long as this thread is bumped, this might be a good time to point out that there are several competing sandpaper numbering systems. For wet or dry papers, these days they are usually graded on the European P scale. For practical purposes, this can usually be assumed with wet or dry finishing paper, but not always. The old US system was CAMI, which is similar in the lower grades, and is still used. Micromesh has their own system which is totally different than everyone else's.
Look here for conversion.
Look here for conversion.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 05-27-17 at 10:08 AM.
05-27-17, 10:15 AM
#112
Fillet-Brazed Member
Thanks for the info.
I like the way it sounds
Just kidding, it's what the author recommended on page 3.
I have used normal wet dry "SandWet" Norton 220 recently, and it's pretty good.
I'm going on the author's recommendation. I think Norton is trusted in the automotive industry.
As of late I’ve become absolutely SOLD on Norton Black Ice waterproof sandpaper. I simply love the stuff. It lasts a VERY long time, it sands beautifully, and cuts fast:
You’ll probably need to find a local auto paint/finishing store to find this…or online. This paper will not be a typical big box store or hardware store item. It is more expensive, be prepared, but I honestly don’t think there’s a comparison between this and the other papers I've used.
For sanding out flaws I’ve been using the 320 grit Black Ice paper and the Norton dual density sanding pad:
Once the flaws are gone, or as gone as I dare make them, I switch to the new grit progression I use since using the Black Ice paper: 600, 1200, 2500. Yep, three grades. I can’t do this with paper other than the Black Ice because of how evenly and quickly it cuts. Wet sanded of course.
I’ll use the sanding pad with the 600 but the 1200 and 2500 I’ll use by hand. The 1200 and 2500 when wet become very flexible, it’s almost like wiping the part with an abrasive rag. The 2500 especially. Regarding the 2500 grit. If you take enough time with it this could be your final finish. The more time you take with it the less you'll take with your polish.
05-27-17, 10:38 AM
#113
Senior Member
Oh, i see. Clearly I missed that post.
Seems to me that Black Ice is most likely Norton's answer to Micromesh. IOW a super premium sandpaper. I haven't used it. FWIW Rockler stocks Micromesh. Frankly for something like this it isn't that critical, IMO. 3M, Norton, Mirka - they all seem about the same to me. Good tools do save time though.
I rarely sand higher than P1000 when polishing aluminum - if sanding is necessary. Unlike with lacquer, fine sanding scratches on aluminum will polish out easily once you get to the compound.
Seems to me that Black Ice is most likely Norton's answer to Micromesh. IOW a super premium sandpaper. I haven't used it. FWIW Rockler stocks Micromesh. Frankly for something like this it isn't that critical, IMO. 3M, Norton, Mirka - they all seem about the same to me. Good tools do save time though.
I rarely sand higher than P1000 when polishing aluminum - if sanding is necessary. Unlike with lacquer, fine sanding scratches on aluminum will polish out easily once you get to the compound.
05-27-17, 11:56 PM
#114
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I always love to see this thread come around.
Then I never practice the lesson on seatposts, handlebars, crank arms, etc.
come back @KHAtful
Then I never practice the lesson on seatposts, handlebars, crank arms, etc.
come back @KHAtful
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05-28-17, 09:05 AM
#115
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Something I have used for polishing small parts is a 4-way nail buffer for doing finger nails. The one I use looks like a flat 2 blade propeller with Emery and 3 buffing pads. Their cheap and available in grocery or drug stores.
I just used one to polish the spindle on a Micrometer I was servicing and thought I would share.
I just used one to polish the spindle on a Micrometer I was servicing and thought I would share.
05-29-17, 11:40 AM
#117
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Next winter - summer has arrived in the PacificMoistWest - I have new tires to wear out first before worrying about polishing.
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09-07-17, 03:11 PM
#118
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I always love to see this thread come around.
Then I never practice the lesson on seatposts, handlebars, crank arms, etc.
come back @KHAtful
Then I never practice the lesson on seatposts, handlebars, crank arms, etc.
come back @KHAtful
I've got a new project (1974 Crescent Pepita Professional DeLuxe) and I thought of my thread here as I violated a prime directive:
Is the part anodized or not?
Yep, went to muck with a set of handlebars, started in with the scuff ball in the drill press, and quickly found out that I wore through anodizing and had to strip and polish the whole blessed thing. Nothing like an 11:00p trip to the grocery store for one can of Easy-Off!
ALWAYS check for anodizing
You might see me post a little more often going forward.
09-07-17, 03:37 PM
#120
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And, just an update:
I still do all the things I posted from the very beginning, with one minor exception...
I've always had a drill press in the house. I worked by hand mostly because I enjoyed it and it was fun using nothing but sandpaper, steel wool, rags, and Mothers to bring out the shining gems in these otherwise dull parts.
Now, almost seven years older than when I first posted this, eh, a little laziness has crept in I do now use the drill press for most polishing tasks...several different sizes and shapes of cloth wheels (round, mushroom, conical, etc.) and Mothers but honestly, I let the motor do most of the work now.
As long as you have the room you can go to Harbor Freight and get a tabletop press that will do 99% of what you'd ever need with a bike part for $70. I just looked at my CL, saw them as cheap as $50. YOu can sometime find a floorstander for $100 on CL if someone's trying to move one. I have a tabletop I've had for 30ish years.
While it somewhat violates the spirit of the post I made initially some technology isn't a bad thing. I just cleaned and polished a pair of AVA tubular rims in two evenings. Took a whole evening to clean off all the old glue and another evening to polish. Had I not used the drill press on the polish part I'd still be there. I always do a final polish by hand with a nice soft cloth and a little Mothers but the bulk of the work can be done with the press.
So if you don't have room, live in an apartment, etc. all the "by hand" techniques will work just fine. If you have the means, by all means, look at a cheap or used drill press if you polish parts with any regularity.
Rims below. Still a few flaws but how aggressive do you want to be on rims? (43 years of old, hard, fossilized glue...ugh.)
Before.jpg
After1.jpg
After2.jpg
I still do all the things I posted from the very beginning, with one minor exception...
I've always had a drill press in the house. I worked by hand mostly because I enjoyed it and it was fun using nothing but sandpaper, steel wool, rags, and Mothers to bring out the shining gems in these otherwise dull parts.
Now, almost seven years older than when I first posted this, eh, a little laziness has crept in
I do now use the drill press for most polishing tasks...several different sizes and shapes of cloth wheels (round, mushroom, conical, etc.) and Mothers but honestly, I let the motor do most of the work now. As long as you have the room you can go to Harbor Freight and get a tabletop press that will do 99% of what you'd ever need with a bike part for $70. I just looked at my CL, saw them as cheap as $50. YOu can sometime find a floorstander for $100 on CL if someone's trying to move one. I have a tabletop I've had for 30ish years.
While it somewhat violates the spirit of the post I made initially some technology isn't a bad thing. I just cleaned and polished a pair of AVA tubular rims in two evenings. Took a whole evening to clean off all the old glue and another evening to polish. Had I not used the drill press on the polish part I'd still be there. I always do a final polish by hand with a nice soft cloth and a little Mothers but the bulk of the work can be done with the press.
So if you don't have room, live in an apartment, etc. all the "by hand" techniques will work just fine. If you have the means, by all means, look at a cheap or used drill press if you polish parts with any regularity.
Rims below. Still a few flaws but how aggressive do you want to be on rims?
(43 years of old, hard, fossilized glue...ugh.)Before.jpg
After1.jpg
After2.jpg
09-07-17, 04:03 PM
#121
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And, just an update:
I still do all the things I posted from the very beginning, with one minor exception...
Now, almost seven years older than when I first posted this, eh, a little laziness has crept in I do now use the drill press for most polishing tasks...several different sizes and shapes of cloth wheels (round, mushroom, conical, etc.) and Mothers but honestly, I let the motor do most of the work now.
As long as you have the room you can go to Harbor Freight and get a tabletop press that will do 99% of what you'd ever need with a bike part for $70.
I still do all the things I posted from the very beginning, with one minor exception...
Now, almost seven years older than when I first posted this, eh, a little laziness has crept in
I do now use the drill press for most polishing tasks...several different sizes and shapes of cloth wheels (round, mushroom, conical, etc.) and Mothers but honestly, I let the motor do most of the work now. As long as you have the room you can go to Harbor Freight and get a tabletop press that will do 99% of what you'd ever need with a bike part for $70.
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Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
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09-07-17, 08:16 PM
#123
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Who me?! Or that other KHatfull who mysteriously disappeared?
I've got a new project (1974 Crescent Pepita Professional DeLuxe) and I thought of my thread here as I violated a prime directive:
Is the part anodized or not?
Yep, went to muck with a set of handlebars, started in with the scuff ball in the drill press, and quickly found out that I wore through anodizing and had to strip and polish the whole blessed thing. Nothing like an 11:00p trip to the grocery store for one can of Easy-Off!
ALWAYS check for anodizing
You might see me post a little more often going forward.
I've got a new project (1974 Crescent Pepita Professional DeLuxe) and I thought of my thread here as I violated a prime directive:
Is the part anodized or not?
Yep, went to muck with a set of handlebars, started in with the scuff ball in the drill press, and quickly found out that I wore through anodizing and had to strip and polish the whole blessed thing. Nothing like an 11:00p trip to the grocery store for one can of Easy-Off!
ALWAYS check for anodizing
You might see me post a little more often going forward.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
