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Old 09-11-11, 04:52 AM
  #26  
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ChicAgo Steel - I emailed that person, will see what happens. There's also a Trek 300 for $275, unknown condition. Thanks for the tip!

DrJim - The Stanyan is a lovely bike, but it's got an itsy-bitsy head tube. If I were to get a Soma, it'd probably be a San Marcos.
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Old 09-11-11, 06:01 AM
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I have a Nishiki Prestige frame (58cm) I would be willing to sell. It is a little short for me.
It is by far, my favorite bike. I have a handlebar extender with aero bars. It worries me to put stress so far above the frame/headset.
I have been looking for a little taller frame to move the components.
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Old 09-11-11, 07:45 AM
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FWIW, about a month ago I sold a vintage lugged steel road bike to a local rider who owns and usually rides a high-end, tricked out carbon Bianchi. I ran into him recently (he was riding the vintage at the time) and he said his Bianchi has been sitting on his bike rack since I sold him the classic steel. So, revchuck, you might be in for a pleasant surprise.
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Old 09-11-11, 08:32 AM
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I have a Miyata 912 in 58 that I'm just slightly too big for. The paint is rough, and the head tube is pink-but it rides beautifully. I'd rather sell the frame and fork, but I would sell the whole bike.

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Old 09-11-11, 10:40 AM
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There's a guy in Marksville that posts a lot of nice steel on craigslist but never puts up pics. I'm assuming it's all the same guy anyways.

Univega Super Sport and Miyata 512, Giant Allegre (probably not lugged but steel), etc.

There's a 61cm Bianchi Eros with spare wheels for $100 in Lake Charles. Needs chain.

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Old 09-11-11, 10:57 AM
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I know others have said it-I would look for a nice Raleigh or Trek with DB 531. Those are especially abundant on CL. As a matter of fact I just sold a brand new '84 Trek 512 with suntour cyclone for $300.
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Old 09-11-11, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
There's a guy in Marksville that posts a lot of nice steel on craigslist but never puts up pics. I'm assuming it's all the same guy anyways.

Univega Super Sport and Miyata 512, Giant Allegre (probably not lugged but steel), etc.

There's a 61cm Bianchi Eros with spare wheels for $100 in Lake Charles. Needs chain.

I live about 35 miles from him. I'm checking it out this evening, already spoke with him. Thanks!
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Old 09-11-11, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by revchuck

DrJim - The Stanyan is a lovely bike, but it's got an itsy-bitsy head tube. If I were to get a Soma, it'd probably be a San Marcos.
I wouldn't call it "itsy-bitsy" although it may be smaller than some. I was aware of that criticism when I bought it but I don't have any problem. My frame is the 58 cm size.

Here's what it looks like.
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Old 09-11-11, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DrJim
I wouldn't call it "itsy-bitsy" although it may be smaller than some. I was aware of that criticism when I bought it but I don't have any problem. My frame is the 58 cm size.

Here's what it looks like.
It looks even nicer with wheels and everything than just the frameset on their website. For context, my two present bikes are 61cm, and have 220mm and 230mm headtubes. I'm leaving soon to check out a 61cm Bianchi Eros with a headtube about the same size as on my present bikes. I might be among the steelies in about an hour.
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Old 09-11-11, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by revchuck
It looks even nicer with wheels and everything than just the frameset on their website. For context, my two present bikes are 61cm, and have 220mm and 230mm headtubes. I'm leaving soon to check out a 61cm Bianchi Eros with a headtube about the same size as on my present bikes. I might be among the steelies in about an hour.
I admit that the head tube might get too short for the smaller frame sizes but, for my bike and larger, other than aesthetics I don't see any disadvantage for the Stanyan. I assume that the thought is that a short head tube is too flexible or weak. I don't get that sense riding the bike but then maybe my sensitivities aren't what they should be. I have my bars set rather high and for appearance sake I would prefer fewer spacers. What I would really prefer for appearance is a quill stem.

Edit: Before somebody reminds me, yes I know short head tubes lead to higher headset bearing loads.
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Old 09-11-11, 05:07 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
I won't warn you about a quality steel frame changing how you think of your other bikes....that'll happen on it's own.
At 59, you're right in the target zone for discovering the substance behind the chat.....

A Tange Prestige, Tange 1 or Tange 2 would do.
An upper-number Miyata (712, 912, etc)
One of the myriad of Reynolds 531's, but watch the geometry, there's more range of that among 531's.
A Reynolds 753 frame, one of the newer 853 frames (Mercier Serpens, Lemond Alpe de Huez)
Any number of Columbus frames, but I can't be more specific. At your price, you can likely get an SL.
A Cilo could be a dark horse, Swiss made and generally very nice.
Paramounts right up through 1992, and there are various "OS" labeled frames in that era.
Tons of nice Schwinns from the mid-upper 80's, early 90's.

There are simply lots of them out there.

I haven't even started on Fuji, Gazelle, and the french bastids...

You could buy an Ironman complete for $100-$350, swap over your components, sell the group, and be in really nice shape (Tange 1) for a net $400-$425. The only problem then is what you may start thinking about modern aluminum...comparatively. It happens.
I think (as usual) Robbie nailed it. Really this comes down to your riding preference, weight...where you ride...etc. I LOVE Miyata's tubing...it's generally a touch heavy, but it's stiff and comfortable. Generally I can do without the vintage light weight steels...the later steels are much better for me; stiffer, equal weight (if not lighter) and often tougher. If you're looking for a more modern bike, but steel and a great rider, take a long look at the Lemonds.
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Old 09-11-11, 06:56 PM
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I would go with a 2nd or 3rd tier classic Italian frame. They have the same design philosphy as the Colnagos, Pinellos, and DeRosas at a fraction of the cost.
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Old 09-11-11, 07:05 PM
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Generally I can do without the vintage light weight steels...the later steels are much better for me; stiffer, equal weight (if not lighter) and often tougher. -- KonArron Snake

Would you give an expanded explanation for the remedial students in class? Thanks!
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Old 09-11-11, 08:00 PM
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I'm one of the remedial students!

I'm talking about some of the stuff that came later...the Columbus Nivachromes, True Temper Platinum OS, Reynolds 853 (someday I hope to try 953). I like the shaped and OS tubesets that started being developed a bit later down the pike...I find SL and 531 whippy most of the time and the stuff like MAX has the stiffness I'm looking for at the same weight. Aluminum like Cannondale is too extreme for me...but the steel OS tubesets seem to be just the ticket.
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Old 09-11-11, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
There's a 61cm Bianchi Eros with spare wheels for $100 in Lake Charles. Needs chain.

I checked on this bike this evening, and unfortunately it's not a 61cm frame - I measured the seat tube at 64.5cm, the top tube at 59.5cm. Had it been a 61, it'd be mine now. It seems to be in good shape overall, but needs a detail cleaning and matching drivetrain parts. Right now it has the original seven speed crankset and a nine speed cassette with a nine speed Ultegra rear derailleur. The paint looks like it would clean up really nice.
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Old 09-12-11, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DrJim
I admit that the head tube might get too short for the smaller frame sizes but, for my bike and larger, other than aesthetics I don't see any disadvantage for the Stanyan. I assume that the thought is that a short head tube is too flexible or weak. I don't get that sense riding the bike but then maybe my sensitivities aren't what they should be. I have my bars set rather high and for appearance sake I would prefer fewer spacers. What I would really prefer for appearance is a quill stem.

Edit: Before somebody reminds me, yes I know short head tubes lead to higher headset bearing loads.
I'm not aware of that or even what it means. Good or bad? Sounds like it would cause bearing to wear faster but then I'm just guessing.
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Old 09-13-11, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by bikerjp
I'm not aware of that or even what it means. Good or bad? Sounds like it would cause bearing to wear faster but then I'm just guessing.
The shorter the head tube the smaller the moment arm that the bearings have in resisting the fore and aft bending loads on the fork. Since the moment is the product of the bearing transverse force times the moment arm, a shorter moment arm gives higher loads. I am speaking in general terms here. In any case, I doubt that there is a problem.

BTW, we seem to have the same subject going in two forums now: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...uble-top-tubes

For those of you not involved in that Commuting thread, I have just posted a bunch of pictures of my Soma Stanyan there,
the one shown in pictures above. The pictures are on page 2 of the "Double top tubes" thread.

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Old 09-13-11, 12:33 PM
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Look for Bianchi's.
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Old 09-13-11, 01:24 PM
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If the parts you have are relatively modern you may run into compatibility or fit problems. The usual areas to consider are bottom bracket (cup thread, axle width- or cartridge?), seat post, and handlebars/headset (quill stem & threaded fork?).
I had good luck with a build-up of a Fuji Connoiseur frame, Nashbar has them at about $350, with threaded fork & headset included, but I'm using DT shifters.
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Old 09-13-11, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DVC45
Look for Bianchi's.
I personally don't even consider a bianchi when I'm on the prowl. In my market there seems to be a bigger mark-up for that decal than any other brand and more demand.

My only significant vintage steel experience with higher end frames is with tange japanese stuff. I picked up an '84 Team Panasonic for my brother a couple weeks ago and it's pretty nice. Lightweight and responsive but stable feeling. They are also not quite as trendy so you can pick one up for a steal sometimes (I did ).

I will also put in a vote for old cannondales. I've owned one now for about a month now and i LOVE it. I don't really understand the "harsh" criticism they get and I'm riding on NYC streets with 23c tires. It is stiff as hell, light, no flex in the frame and is ready to shoot forward at any moment. Yeah you do feel the road a bit more but I like that. The bike just feels like one solid thing beneath you. I'm running slightly lower tire pressures (105psi) and it fits me perfectly so maybe that helps reduce the harshness others talk of.

The steel frame feels slightly smoother but it also feels more flexy than the aluminum. I prefer the aluminum but I plan on getting another tange/columbus/reynolds frame to really experience it for myself.
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Old 09-13-11, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Chombi
Yes, one can try out the cream of the crop Columbus SLX frame but spending so much (at least $400+ for a decent (frameset) example these days) is not neccessary to feel out the ride of a good classic steel frame. Any Trek from the 80's with Reynolds steel tubing will be great! lots of them out there to choose from. Touring, sport/touring or racing frames, and their prices wont be so crazy.

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Old 09-13-11, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by frantik
I say get an Centurion Ironman and upgrade as needed.

Japanese lugged steel, Tange 1, nimble geometry, and awesome paint jobs

plus you gain entry into exclusive Centurion and Ironman cults
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Old 09-13-11, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Talus
I have a Miyata 912 in 58 that I'm just slightly too big for. The paint is rough, and the head tube is pink-but it rides beautifully. I'd rather sell the frame and fork, but I would sell the whole bike.

This
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Old 09-13-11, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by thinktubes
I would go with a 2nd or 3rd tier classic Italian frame. They have the same design philosphy as the Colnagos, Pinellos, and DeRosas at a fraction of the cost.
Not This. Don't go Italian! You'll really get sucked in like the rest of us!
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Old 09-17-11, 09:02 PM
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anything with columbus steel!
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