qualla

According to most fitting systems, I "should" be riding a 57-59 cm bike, but I've noticed that I often have more success getting and staying comfortable at or beyond the upper end of that range. I decided that I needed to try riding a larger bike, so I started keeping an eye on CL for a C & V candidate (see how nicely that works.)
Within a couple of days I found and bought a contender. I am now the owner of a 24" 1985 Trek 620. No barn find super screaming' deal here ($150), but it did include the Eco-Duopar mech and Brooks Professional saddle. Well, and a Helicomatic too, but it actually, you know, works.
It was indeed very easy to find a comfortable riding position - though the less said about the straddling position the better.

The only real downside is that I seem to have run out of room (I did not have much to begin with) so the Univega Specialissima will probably have to go (after I convert it back from a Franken-commuter). :-(

I have pictures, just as I got it. Well, almost as I got it. I wanted to take it on a checkout ride, so I took off the (Christophe) clips and straps …and I changed the tires from the 27 x 1 ⅛ Continentals that gave a new meaning to "powdercoat" to some 27 x 1 ¼ Marathons that I had lying around. (Does the fact that I had a spare set of 27" Marathons mean that I have a problem?).
A bit of Obenauf's LP applied to the saddle doesn't count. And tightening mounting of the Duopar doesn't count either. So. Just as I got it.

I also have some questions/concerns. But pictures first.



















Time for a good cleaning anyway.

I don't think that I need to worry about clearance for fenders - but I've never tried to mount a fender when the forward mounting point is so far from the wheel. Any tips?

I'm not sure which Kool-Stop or VO inserts or replacement shoes would work best with the high-profile BR-MC70 Shimano brakes. They work surprisingly well just as they are, but I'd like a little more peace of mind.
In a related question, does anyone have a sense of how much switching to aero levers might affect the braking and/or the height of the straddle?

Also, any source or pointers on maintenance or peculiarities of the Duopar or the Stronglight headlight would be appreciated.

Finally, do folks have a sense of how aggressively I should attack that rust on the top tube? A little aluminum foil, some Barkeeper's Friend, some sort of oxalic acid treatment or…?

TIA

cycleheimer

The 620 is one mighty nice touring bike!

brockd15 

I would consider $150 to be a pretty great deal!

triplebutted

Dang that's nice!

omgar

Those Shimano brake shoes NEVER dry out. It's pretty ridiculous how long mine lasted. I replaced them though because the brake dust was unbearable, especially in the rain.
I went with these and they're really really good.

JAG410

$150?! that's a hell of a deal! Looks like it will clean up nicely.

thenomad

Well, for a 620 its a steal of a deal. I'd buy it at $150 and flip it for $350-$400 easily (such a large size is a consideration though).

Great bikes. I think you should look into the tot tube size and you'll find your ideal frame size probably lies in the 59-60 range? At a certain point the top tube stays the same while they just add seat tube. This is why you can't stand over it, because your reach is fine but the extra height is a problem.



good find

Iowegian

Nice bike and a great deal! As for the rust, it never sleeps you know and I imagine you'll want to keep this bike for a while. The paint is shot in these areas so don't worry about being aggressive in removing the rust. I'd hit it with a wire brush and then maybe some sandpaper followed by naval jelly. After that some rust inhibitor or a zinc heavy primer or just plain old primer and paint. You probably won't be able to match the nice blue sparkle paint but at least you'll stop or slow down the rust until you you decide to refinish.