melicha8

My bike frame has 120mm dropout spacing. I'm currently converting a single speed to a 10 speed. Right now the bike has a fix/free wheel with the same 120mm spacing. I have the 5 spd uniglide freewheel so I can use my SIS shifting but it won't fit on the freewheel side with the current hub spacing. So I need to do either of two things, or a third I haven't thought of if you have some input.

Option one: I respace the hub and redish the wheel to make more room. The problem here is there are no spacers on the non drive side to remove and put on the drive side. It has a single locknut. So I can find spacers but is there a source for more narrow lock nuts? I think I'd need something as small as 2mm in order to get enough room on the other side to fit the freewheel. What is the minimum clearance I need between the smallest sprocket and the dropouts?

Option two: I buy a new hub and relace the wheel. The wheel is 32h. Most hubs of this era are 36 hole. My google searches have not come up with much except Sturmey Archer IGH's and Track hubs. What hubs(pref shimano) and model numbers should I look for that accommodate my needs.


Thanks C/V lurkers

rhm

I assume you're talking about a quick-release hub, correct?

You can readjust the cones and locknuts on both sides. First do the left side to reduce the amount of axle sticking out to the barest minimum, and then do the right, adding the spacer you need. The axle doesn't actually have to stick out beyond the locknuts, according to Sheldon Brown! Still, I'd leave a little if possible.

If that doesn't work, you can probably replace the axle with a longer one. The threads are usually standard, so (almost) any axle will do.

If you want a hub, go to the "for trade" thread and post what you need there. Lots of us have bins full of stuff and might be willing to help. Not me, of course, I'm a hoarder. But the other guys, well, you know.

melicha8

The wheel currently has a solid axle with 15mm bolds. There are no spacers for me to shift around in between the dropouts it goes locknut-conewasher-hub-conewasher-locknut which is why I need a more narrow locknut so I can buy washers and make up for the loss in width from the new locknut.

JohnDThompson 

You could replace the whole axle set with a different one, even quick-release compatible if you prefer. E.g. for US$4.75 + shipping: https://biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id...m_id=AP-10136S

wayback

^ This is the route I'd take. You could also pick up an axle set at a LBS. If the same shop has a DIY pit, you could make the conversion there and get any additional spacers needed while you're working on the bike.

GrayJay

Sounds like your 120mm frame would make an excellent candidate for a sturmey-archer 3-speed conversion. E-bay is full of cheap vintage SA hubs. Add a set of modern SA compatable bar-end or thumb shifters and the end result is a pretty cool bike, probably more usefull and interesting than a 5-speed freewheel setup and very low maintanence. I have an old track bike I not longer care to ride as a fixed gear, adding a SU 3-speed hub makes it a much more useable bike for street riding and it can always be easily converted back as a fixie with minimal work.

If you are determined to add a rear derailler, consider cold setting the frame up to 126mm spacing, even if you do want to run a 5 or ultra6 freewheel, you can re-space the hub to get the highest cog close to the frame and have a very strong nearly dishless rear wheel.

melicha8

After a super productive weekend on this project, success! I went to my local bicycle coop https://sacbikekitchen.org/ which had all the tools for the job and a couple odds and ends. The locknuts on my hub were about 7mm. I found one there at about 3mm and put it on the non drive side added some washers on the drive side and recentered my axle. Yesterday I bought a spoke wrench and redished the wheel. I thought I'd have to buy new spokes but it seems minor adjustments to the spokes make big translational movements in the wheelcenter.

All in all I tightened the spokes on the drive side about 1.25 turns and loosened the spokes the same amount on the non drive side so definitely no worries about spokes protruding and causing punctures. Now I just need to go there once more and make the fine adjustments on the truing stand. One last thing I'm concerned about is the clearance of the chain on the smallest cog to the dropouts. There is no rubbing but it is pretty tight about 1mm between the two. I haven't pedaled it hard yet but I am a little concerned that it may be close enough that under flex the chain could rub the dropout. I could put another washer in to space it but right now the axle sllides into the dropouts like butter. Pics to come.