Steps to spray bike frame
11-14-13, 01:16 PM
#26
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I am getting ready to do some painting. I struggled with rattle can or using a spray gun. I have two. One is a standard Binks with siphon feed a pint can. The other is a touch-Up Air spray gun. Recommendation is to get a laquer paint and use which gun?
OK did a google and determined that maybe the Binks would be good until the clear coat when the touch-up gun would be best.
OK did a google and determined that maybe the Binks would be good until the clear coat when the touch-up gun would be best.
Last edited by SJX426; 11-14-13 at 01:43 PM.
11-14-13, 02:29 PM
#27
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i love this gun, harbor freight for 12 bucks. i have 3. primer,color and clear.
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11-14-13, 03:29 PM
#28
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in case of DIY. patience to wait for Spring if you are in EST. rattle-cannin' in Winter = no good.
this job requires multiple coats of each different ones. proper cure is the key, it cures no good in Winter. i'd say below like 60º.
premature cure messes up the next coat. you wouldn't actually know 'til see some peeloffs like 6 months later.
n/a for you lucky folks livin in 72 and Sunny.
this job requires multiple coats of each different ones. proper cure is the key, it cures no good in Winter. i'd say below like 60º.
premature cure messes up the next coat. you wouldn't actually know 'til see some peeloffs like 6 months later.
n/a for you lucky folks livin in 72 and Sunny.
11-14-13, 03:31 PM
#29
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Beautiful work Sloar, Randy! Thanks for all the tips.
I'm thinking the OP may be getting a little more than he expected.
Brent
I'm thinking the OP may be getting a little more than he expected.
Brent
11-14-13, 04:45 PM
#30
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in case of DIY. patience to wait for Spring if you are in EST. rattle-cannin' in Winter = no good.
this job requires multiple coats of each different ones. proper cure is the key, it cures no good in Winter. i'd say below like 60º.
premature cure messes up the next coat. you wouldn't actually know 'til see some peeloffs like 6 months later.
n/a for you lucky folks livin in 72 and Sunny.
this job requires multiple coats of each different ones. proper cure is the key, it cures no good in Winter. i'd say below like 60º.
premature cure messes up the next coat. you wouldn't actually know 'til see some peeloffs like 6 months later.
n/a for you lucky folks livin in 72 and Sunny.
11-14-13, 09:04 PM
#31
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Well, totally right on all counts, but I disagree on one point. Painting in the winter works better for me. With the central heating on full, standing the frame on a double radiator indoors for a week or two between coats really hardens it off. With workshop time limited by weather and family commitments, it's easier to work intensely and patiently on small jobs and get the thing really well prepared. With freezing rain, snow and slush, there's no rush to finish the job and ride the bike like in the summer! It works for me :-)
11-14-13, 10:31 PM
#33
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I have one on the compressor, and I also use the plastic disposable filters that attach to the paint gun. I wouldn't paint anything without one of those.
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11-15-13, 06:58 AM
#34
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I sandblast the frame down to bare metal. Then i sand the whole frame using 100 grit sandpaper. doing this will reveal any dings or deep scratches in the metal a lot better. once this is done i wipe the frame down then use a tac cloth and wipe it down again. Prep is the most important process in painting. I use a $12 detail gun from harbor freight. The paint I get from auto zone. its a premix ready to spray automotive paint. Comes in quart cans. Primer, color and clear will run about $75. I will swear by this paint, very easy to work with and set up time is super fast. after 3 coats of primer i will wet sand then clean. Usually around 5 coats of color with wet sanding as needed. The last coat, if solid color i lay down heavy and wet before clear coating, if its a metallic i will wetsand the next to last coat then mist the metallic all over on the last coat to make sure the metallic is even throughout the frame. you only need to wait about 10 minutes in-between each coat. I usually wait about 30 minutes before decals are applied. Then 7 coats of clear with sanding between each coat. Your first coat of primer,color and clear should be a light spray to make sure it acts as a adhesive for the other coats. I've had pretty good results using this process and can finish a whole frame set in about 4-5 hours and assemble and ride the next day. the paint is very durable and like i said very easy to work with. Good luck.
Has your paint held up after time.
Glenn
11-15-13, 07:54 AM
#35
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For anyone in Japan — "Yellow Hat" automotive shops will do this for you. Obtain any paint code from the tag on an automobile and they will mix the formula. It smells to me like it is an acrylic lacquer. They supply a compatible primer and clear coat to go with it. I've used this paint it on my wife's car; not yet on a bike.
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11-15-13, 08:08 AM
#37
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The paint on my bikes have held up better than expected. I'm not an endorser for the paint. This is only my opinion. I like it and will keep using it.
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11-15-13, 09:01 AM
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https://www.ehow.com/how_5585695_spra...uto-paint.html
Two part urethane or polyurethane will be the most durable, but it's extremely hazardous to your health.
Two part urethane or polyurethane will be the most durable, but it's extremely hazardous to your health.
11-15-13, 01:16 PM
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11-15-13, 01:20 PM
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I paid $40 for my detail gun used. It cost $300 new. The harbor freight guns are prettier.
My spray guns are useless now that my compressor has died.
My spray guns are useless now that my compressor has died.
11-15-13, 02:31 PM
#41
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I have never paid attention to the gauge, I always just go by feel. After awhile I just figured out where I wanted it. You want the pressure low.
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11-22-13, 04:21 AM
#42
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very informative guys!
thank you so much.
And yes, I will let the pro to do it for me. The current state of my frame is bared steel, old paint has been removed. I would want to sand it as I can see some area are rusted.
I have picked up some useful points here and possibly to share with the painter...as he is a automotive painter. It is always tell better than not.
I will share some pictures while it is progressing.
thank you so much.
And yes, I will let the pro to do it for me. The current state of my frame is bared steel, old paint has been removed. I would want to sand it as I can see some area are rusted.
I have picked up some useful points here and possibly to share with the painter...as he is a automotive painter. It is always tell better than not.
I will share some pictures while it is progressing.
11-22-13, 05:38 AM
#43
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For around the lugs I recommend the sanding sponge that is sold most places HD. The sponge lasts a long time and gets into hard to sand spots without falling apart. The sponge is wet dry sand paper grit.
11-24-13, 08:56 PM
#44
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*UPDATES*
The frame went off to spray
Meantime, I need to custom make the gazelle decals.
But I am not too sure on the sizes, length and width of the decals.
Anyone whom experience mind to enlighten? Thx
The frame went off to spray
Meantime, I need to custom make the gazelle decals.
But I am not too sure on the sizes, length and width of the decals.
Anyone whom experience mind to enlighten? Thx
Last edited by littlebeetle; 11-24-13 at 09:01 PM.
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