PatrickR400

Since a picture is worth a 1000 words



What do you say? Does this tire still have a life or is it shot? I had a couple of occurrences of the back wheel sliding on clean pavement while turning under load.

Thanks in advance.

Wanderer

It's still fine, MHO

Drew Eckhardt 

Almost new. Tread is irrelevant for road riding - it's just there for marketing purposes because consumers expect it. You don't need it for dirt road or gravel either. Tires aren't worn out until you see cords or the flat rate becomes unacceptable because the rubber is too thin and the carcass lacks a tough enough protection layer.

This is a worn-out tire after 5257 miles in back following 1037 up front, 200-400 miles after Continental's wear indicator dots disappeared:

chasm54

There's nothing wrong with that tyre. I wouldn't ride one until it got to the state of Drew's worn-out example, though....

nfmisso

The tire is no where near worn out; and it is definitely not a tire that I would choose for riding on pavement. It is an off pavement tire. For on pavement, look for a tire with a nice smooth round contour from the center thru the sidewall. Those knubs on the sides of the tire in the picture will result in less than ideal handling on pavement - sideways hops and/or sliding.

PatrickR400

Drew, chasm54

Thank you for the feedback. I was wondering but it didn't quite make sense given the low km. The tire is worn more than the front one but that is to be expected.

Maybe the back tire stepping out is due to the gunk they put in cracks to "repair" them. The stepping out happened on regular road sections in between sections of bike path.

Again thanks.

ColaJacket

I think it would corner better if it were more worn.

As others mentioned, road tires don't need tread like that. It may help on trails, but it hurts on roads. Also, you don't even need tread for wet road, as the contact patch isn't wide enough to warrant treads.

GH

Wanderer

The stuff they use for crack filling nowadays, is rubbery. It actually moves when you squish it!

PatrickR400

Yep! It is dangerous when you it a crack parallel to the road; I've had my motorcycle skip sideways when hitting it and you can get it to move just by stepping on it. Evil stuff.

jsigone

if you have matching pair, rotate with the front tire. Otherwise, you will go through 2 rears per every front.

Drew Eckhardt 

When you wear out the rear move the front tire to the back and put a new one up front. That way you always have your newest tire up front where a flat may cause loss of control.

Don't move a tire from back to front.

MRT2

This.

jsigone

LOL in most cases I'd agree with you and if this was a roadie tire. but its a high roller CX tire with side knob for grip when off roading, you won't lean it over that far anyway on pavement or hard pack.....trying to lean that type of tire on to the knobs on pavement is pretty sketch even with a new middle tread and actually has less traction. Those tire was made from packed grass or mixed pave/dirt jobs. I run similar tires on my CX, schwalbe sammy slick 35c

OP is having problems turning the bike under load on raised knobby tires on pavement where traction is limited. If you ride pave/hardpack dirt/gravel bike paths 90% of the time, time to change the tire types to match what you ride. Might save some skin that way.

I'd recommend these tires for that job and if you don't mind heavy no flat type tires. Might be a ***** to mount, use water squirt bottle on the sidewalls to help out
Marathon Plus HS 440 | Schwalbe North America

Some lighter and cheaper version from the comp and only $30ea from amazon
continental bicycle Touring Plus

PatrickR400

Drew, jsigone,

Good advice; works for cars, works for bikes

I might actually got for a new set at some point and pick more "road" tires. But then I'll do the rotation thing for sure.

PatrickR400

It looks like this shtuff was the actual culprit in having the rear wheel step out. I intentionally rode on some yesterday with the same effect.