c_m_shooter

It would make more sense to switch to integrated shifters than to move the bar end shifters up like that. Here is a pretty cheap set.

https://performancebike.com/bikes/Pro...1511000_400194

Neil_B

My first ride this week following my knee problems. Six miles. One day I'll get this dialed in.

Neil_B

Evolution of my sword:

April 2010, at purchase:





After fitting a week later:





Accessories added, October 2010:



The next step in the forging - trekking bars:



Cockpit view:



Nashbar Trekking bars, cork wrapped, with hybrid-type brake levers and the original Shimano bar end shifters attached with Paul's Thumbies. Set up so I don't need to remove a hand from the bars to shift. Also, for the first time I have a bike I can use a handlebar bag with and not interfere with the brake cables.

zoste

Nice! Glad to see that you got the trekking bars installed. How's the ride now?

cooleric1234

It looks too late to suggest now but I once had a bike with trekking bars and I used twist shifters with it. It was a really good combination and easy to use.

And I can relate to the cantilever brake nonsense. I got canti's on my beater commuter bike (technically a cross bike) and they were terrible to start (Tektro Oryx). I had to do a lot of fiddling, buying a straddle cable, lowering the transverse cable, getting the part pictured below to reduce fork shutter, getting Kool Stop pads. Finally they're working well now, but it took effort. If I didn't want to keep my integrated shifters I would have gone straight to linear pull brakes. Those just work much better out of the box. You'd have to buy new levers, maybe cable and housing, and brakes, but it would be less than $100 all told. I'm not sure which one would take more fiddling, and once you had it all adjusted with either approach it would be fine. One thing to consider is that with a low straddle cable and high mechanical advantage you often need the pads close to the rim, so close that it's hard to use the "quick release" of the brakes to get the wheel out.

Neil_B

Twitchy.

zoste

Yep...that's due to the steering geometry. You'll get used to it fairly easily.

cooleric1234

I guess that surprises me a little. Maybe the steering geometry is different than a mountain bike but we're not talking about a road racing bike here. The Surly LHT is a touring bike, if you look at the geometry chart it has super long chainstays, very slack head tube angle, a tall head tube, and a long wheelbase. I can't imagine it getting any more smooth than it is. I would certainly think the Trek Pilot geometry shouldn't be any smoother.

https://www.surlybikes.com/bikes/long...lete/#geometry

cooleric1234

The other thing is that trekking bars change the fit considerably. When I put mine on I preferred the handlebars to be lower and the trekking bars almost level with the ground, just slightly turned up. I rode most of the time holding on to the ends of the bars that were closest to me or to to the sides. I only used the front if I wanted to get more aero. Speaking of which, I miss my bike with trekking bars. I love drop bars and road bikes and being able to go faster but for commuting trekking bars were nice. Lots of different hand positions that were all comfortable. Just no real aerodynamic position.

If you do twist the bars to be like that then that puts the ends of the bars a bit higher. Maybe you could even get away with not having the extra riser in that case. But obviously whatever works best for you is ideal.

jr59

I would think that you would adjust to this.
It's just a little change. I know you don't like change, but you really should
Give this a real good try.

Neil_B

"I know you don't like change..."

Which explains why I lost 150 pounds and taught myself to ride a bicycle.

Neil_B

I have an additional problem - getting my feet on the pedals. Even with extenders, the pedals are closer to the frame than I'm used to, and I'm having trouble getting my right foot on the pedal when I give my downstroke. This is a problem with the rider, not the bike, and if I do undergo knee replacement later this year, the valgus problem will be lessened to the point I'm not riding on the edge of the pedal.

michaelnel

I have Dura-Ace 9 speed bar end shifters on my Soma Doublecross, and they are by far my favorite kind of bicycle gear shifters. I have the rear one set for indexed shifting and it works perfectly every shift with the XT derailleur I have back there . I have the front set for friction so I can easily fine tune the 105 front derailleur for zero chain rub no matter what gear combination I am in F/R.

I enjoy starting off from a stop on say, the third cog in the rear and then just flicking it to maybe the sixth without having to go through all those intermediate ones. Same with downshifting, no need to go through all the intermediate cogs.

I always found both Shimano and Campy "ergo" shifters awkward to operate (although the Campy ones are much better than the Shimanos), I *hate* twist shifters, and really don't like trigger shifters (they hurt my thumbs). I am a retrogrouch bar-end shifter kinda guy, I guess.

cooleric1234

I've always thought bar ends look awesome on bikes like the LHT. I love their relatively inexpensive price too. They are also simple mechanisms, less likely to break, easier to install. As you mention the "infinite" trim is nice too, as is the ability to complete multiple shifts at once. One reason I've considered getting them is they look ideal for using with thick mittens for winter rides.

Despite that I haven't bought them yet. Mostly because I just know I won't like having to reach all the way to the ends of the bars every time I want to shift. I usually ride in the hoods, so that's about as far apart as you can get on handlebars. I like shifting fairly often to keep a steady cadence.

jr59

Ok wise guy; See post 24!

Neil_B

Well, since the drop bars DIDN'T work, it was a "legitimate fear."