310lbs looking to get back into cycling
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Mattoon,Ill
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I built one of these with Sram Rival.https://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check Another good choice is https://salsacycles.com/bikes/casseroll/. I don't know how much they're in Canada but in the US the Surly's $1150 and the Salsa's $1400
#4
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I'm 240. With the right wheels and running 35- 37 mm tires it should work well for you. I've run 28mm tires on it but I like 35's better. I had some touring wheels with 36 spoke 105 hubs built for it. I assembled the rest of the bike myself. It's not as fast as my Trek 4.5 Madone but running lower pressure sure makes for a smooth ride. I like it's ability to handle unpaved surfaces.
#5
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I'm 250 and have gone the touring bike route. If you want a touring bike that has the look and feel of a road bike, check out Marinoni. https://www.marinoni.qc.ca/IndexEN.html They are Canadian made.
You say you want to turn pro. Pro 'what'?
With your height and body type, think Football, not cycling. But biking can be an excellent component of an overall fitness plan.
You say you want to turn pro. Pro 'what'?
With your height and body type, think Football, not cycling. But biking can be an excellent component of an overall fitness plan.
#7
Watching and waiting.
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The $1725 is just for a frameset. Pretty easy to get $3000 in this.
#9
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The 520 is well regarded as a touring bike. I'd try to ride as many touring and cyclocross bikes as you can find in your area. I'm 6'2" and I ride a 58 cm size cyclocross bike. My roadbike is a 60 cm. I kinda like being stretched out a little more on it and the handlebar to seat drop is greater to get more "aero". Wind plays a much bigger factor here in central Illinois than Hills.
I don't know whether you noticed but most touring bikes use barend shifters. The stock Cross Check uses then as well. I much prefer STI style shifters and that's one of the reasons I chose to buy a frameset and build it myself. I'm not suggesting you do this as just getting out and riding something is the first step.
I don't know whether you noticed but most touring bikes use barend shifters. The stock Cross Check uses then as well. I much prefer STI style shifters and that's one of the reasons I chose to buy a frameset and build it myself. I'm not suggesting you do this as just getting out and riding something is the first step.
#10
Full Member
I'd like to address your question about 'going pro'.
I was lucky to have a modestly successful career as an amateur which included 2 years as a Cat. 2 so maybe I can offer an idea of what it takes.
Yeah, you can do it. Especially starting now at age 18.
BUT!
At 6'3", I think a more reasonable goal for pro-level racing will be to get under 200. I'm 6'1" and raced at ~175. And if I knew then what I know now about diet, I would've dropped 10 pounds more.
...
I'm not trying to brag here, just think you should know what it takes.
Expect years of 300-500 mile weeks, 11 months of the year. Seriously. Nothing less, there are no shortcuts. The key to success in cycling is 'ride lots'. Rain or shine (or snow, if that's in your climate). That's what I did. My most successful year I commuted a minimum of 27 miles to work and 27 back, and there was a 1000' elevation change from home to work. 5 days a week, and I missed one day due to sickness in the 10 months I sustained that lifestyle. I didn't own a car. I say 'minimum' because it wasn't unusual to throw my knapsack in the woods on the way home to add a 20 or 30 mile loop in, or to participate in a nearby evening training race or timetrial.
You should also expect to get yourself a proper roadracing bike in the next year or so and 'assume the position'. You can use the Surly, or whatever to start knocking the pounds off, but as soon as possible you need to start to get used to spending hours at a time on a performance road bicycle. In the early season expect to be putting in a 3-5 hour ride once a week on it (or more if possible) while you learn how to fuel yourself, dress and pace yourself over these distances.
I didn't start training for competition till I was 22 or so, but I also had a couple years of bike commuting and several extended tours under my belt. You're lucky to get the bug at a younger age. Pro cyclist enjoy longer careers so you have lots of time.
So, yeah, you can do it. The question is do you have what it takes?
Well, do ya kid?
I was lucky to have a modestly successful career as an amateur which included 2 years as a Cat. 2 so maybe I can offer an idea of what it takes.
Yeah, you can do it. Especially starting now at age 18.
BUT!
At 6'3", I think a more reasonable goal for pro-level racing will be to get under 200. I'm 6'1" and raced at ~175. And if I knew then what I know now about diet, I would've dropped 10 pounds more.
...
I'm not trying to brag here, just think you should know what it takes.
Expect years of 300-500 mile weeks, 11 months of the year. Seriously. Nothing less, there are no shortcuts. The key to success in cycling is 'ride lots'. Rain or shine (or snow, if that's in your climate). That's what I did. My most successful year I commuted a minimum of 27 miles to work and 27 back, and there was a 1000' elevation change from home to work. 5 days a week, and I missed one day due to sickness in the 10 months I sustained that lifestyle. I didn't own a car. I say 'minimum' because it wasn't unusual to throw my knapsack in the woods on the way home to add a 20 or 30 mile loop in, or to participate in a nearby evening training race or timetrial.
You should also expect to get yourself a proper roadracing bike in the next year or so and 'assume the position'. You can use the Surly, or whatever to start knocking the pounds off, but as soon as possible you need to start to get used to spending hours at a time on a performance road bicycle. In the early season expect to be putting in a 3-5 hour ride once a week on it (or more if possible) while you learn how to fuel yourself, dress and pace yourself over these distances.
I didn't start training for competition till I was 22 or so, but I also had a couple years of bike commuting and several extended tours under my belt. You're lucky to get the bug at a younger age. Pro cyclist enjoy longer careers so you have lots of time.
So, yeah, you can do it. The question is do you have what it takes?
Well, do ya kid?
Last edited by ChuckD6421; 07-01-12 at 08:30 PM.
#11
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Hello,
You may not be able to loose 100lbs and be viable for life. If you are 310lbs and only have 24% bodyfat, I give a rough estimate that loosing 64.5 lbs would put you in the 5% (athlete) bodyfat range, based on 310lbs/ 0.24 (24%) X 00.5 (5%)= 64.6lbs. Either way, if you hit 5% bodyfat you are at athlete status. At that point, go after your dreams and see what happens. I wish you the best of luck!
You may not be able to loose 100lbs and be viable for life. If you are 310lbs and only have 24% bodyfat, I give a rough estimate that loosing 64.5 lbs would put you in the 5% (athlete) bodyfat range, based on 310lbs/ 0.24 (24%) X 00.5 (5%)= 64.6lbs. Either way, if you hit 5% bodyfat you are at athlete status. At that point, go after your dreams and see what happens. I wish you the best of luck!
#13
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Your countryman, Ryder Hesjedal, who won the Giro this year is your height and races at 160 pounds. I'm 6'4" and raced at 165 and was large in the pelotons I was in.
I'm sure I would have won the Giro given the chance.
(not really)
I'm sure I would have won the Giro given the chance.
(not really)
#14
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Best of luck in your endeavour.
ChuckD6421 makes many good points .
The challenges are many,
but that is true
of any sport
you want to follow professionally.
ChuckD6421 makes many good points .
The challenges are many,
but that is true
of any sport
you want to follow professionally.
#15
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Thanks for the response, I really like the Surly! How much do you weigh, if you don't mind me asking? Do you think it would hold my weight (300-310) with ease if I slapped on some 36 spoke wheels? I plan on losing weight fairly quickly, but I guess that's everyone's goal!
What you might consider doing is getting a 40 or 48 spoke rear wheel built on the cheap (see this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ld-on-a-Budget) that will work for you at 300+lbs and act as a touring wheel once you've taken off the additional weight. I did this recently and decided to splurge and had a rear wheel built with a Phil Wood 48h hub $420) and a Velocity Chukkar rim ($80) that should last me 20 years.
Now that I have that wheel I don't worry about breaking down when I really start hammering on hills and on the street.
#18
A square going nowhere
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I got my CAAD8 at 315 pounds, it supported me just fine. I had gotten down to 235 at one point, back up to 260 but working on it. I have Easton EA50 wheels on it right now, 20 radial spokes up front, and 24 2 cross drive side, radial non drive side on the rear running 700x23. I don't have too many miles on them yet, but they are holding my weight fine. My bike has held up fine as well as my wheels. Don't limit yourself due to your weight. There are many road bikes that will support you.
#20
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Silas: I have 28s. Same rim that came with it but had the bike shop add heavier spokes. It worked nicely. You will love the Defy too. Sweet ride!
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