jwalker3181

I'm trying to work out two different things.
1. Buying a New Leaf XL
2. having the local shop build me one starting with a Surly frame and tandem wheels and hubs.
Which would be the better route for durability?

Terryble

Can't speak for the New Leaf XL as I have never ridden one but I went the Surly route (Troll with Instigator fork) with tandem tires and never looked back. At the time I weighed 504 and now weigh 430, I killed a Marin Muirwoods at the start though.

WestPablo

Welcome to BF, JWalker!

+2

I'll vote for the Surly frame!

jwalker3181

Thanks for the warm welcome and great answers. The shop also said they'd credit me for parts they took off of the Surly (they had one in Stock) So that would do big things to keep costs down too. Any recommendations for wheels, tires, other parts, etc.?

Null66

I'm running a disc trucker with "wheels for the apocalypse". I built it up myself for the most part.

PW 48 sp disc tandem hubs and velocity Chucker rims and marathon 38's (a 420 on front, and a plus on the rear)...

Expensive definitely, Over kill perhaps, reliable? Hell yes....

Gross vehicle weight rarely exceeds 350, but I did have it airborne while loaded once at about 20 mph.

jwalker3181

Which Surly frame should I use? Troll?

chriskmurray

There are a lot of variables here, like what are your goals with the bike, is it for mountain biking, commuting, etc. What is your weight, what is your price range, etc.

If cost is no option the Surly with mid grade drivetrain and super strong wheels is a fantastic option.

For wheels I would recommend something like the Velocity Atlas or NoBS rims laced to whatever hubs your budget allows. Phil or White Industries if cost is no issue or Shimano XT or their tandem hub respaced if you are heavy enough to justify more than 36 spokes.

jwalker3181

I'm trying to keep total cost in the $2k and under range, I'm pretty heavy, low 4s but active. I'd run but that would be hell on my knees. I was thinking one of the mountain frames, road tires, definitely 36+ spokes... Something to stand up to paved trails, like Druid Hill Park and Lake Montebello in Baltimore

fietsbob

Never heard of the other one, Surly & Salsa are QBP import brands & They sell a lot of them .. 36 spoke wheels , well maintained should hold up ..

jwalker3181

CALL US (877) 690-1879 A New Leaf

indyfabz

+1, as long as you don't go with something "designer."

jwalker3181

I want durable not designer.

Terryble

For the wheels I went with a white industries MI6 hub in 40 spoke (sapim strong spokes specifically) with the Velocity Cliffhanger rim. Also the Big Apple in 2.35 for the tire itself. I went with the Troll simply for the versatility, I pondered a Pugsley for the passive suspension but in the end decided the overall ease of maintenance of a standard 26" wheel would work better for me.

jwalker3181

thanks I'll run it by the shop for a price

chriskmurray

That would make for a fantastic set of wheels and White Industries hubs are some of my favorite out there but if it is more than you wanted to spend another good option is you can run a cheaper 36 hole hub (anything above 36 hole gets pricey and I think Shimano dropped their tandem hub which was a cheaper 48h option) and run much tougher spokes like DT Alpine 3's or Wheelsmith DH13's. They have a thicker elbow than most spokes because that is where most spoke failures happen but the rest of the spoke is thinner to be able to use normal rims as not be as hard on rims as a full 13g spokes.

A couple other great rims you can check out are the Velocity NoBS or even the Sun Rhyno Lite. Both are a little less expensive but are very very strong.

squirtdad

Ok I am 290 at my max....263 today so little different from low 4.... but I have not had problem with 32 hole rims


my thoughts/opinions.....

wheels: the quality of the build is more important than 32 or 36 spokes.

Many people who go mountain bike, but are mostly or all pavement find themselves in the market for a bike sooner than they know

going huge tires is going to be slower long term

Flat bars are good for mountain biking.... but not road biking at any distance.

I would start with a cross check frame and go from there.

that would give you a lot of flexibility

have fun rding

jwalker3181

I'm going to forward this whole thread to my bike shop, so many good ideas

pathofwrath

Jwalker3181, you buy something yet? If so, what did you get? I'm getting close to making my purchase. Starting with a Surly LHT frame and going from there.

MacNasty

I'm at 370. Had my local LBS build up a Surly Karate Monkey. Velocity double wall 36 spoke rims, disc brakes, big apple rubber, alfine 8 speed internal, heavy duty crank, jones loop bars, cris king headset. it is bad ass. I have rode the snot out of it without a hiccup. The steel frame of the Surly gives a ride as smooth as butter. I have a Cannondale CX3 also and you can really tell the difference in steel vs aluminum in ride quality. Good luck, bike riding is 100% better than jogging. Your knees will appreciate the bike vs pavement pounding, especially when you hit the older years in life.

jwalker3181

Ordered the Troll and we are still hashing out wheel options for the 8 speed Alfine

mcrow

I'm partial to Surly, given they are a local company here. Surly makes some pretty damn tough frames, just pair it with some strong rims/hubs and your prefered componenents and you're golden.

Surly designs many of their bikes with being haulers in mind.

Null66

nice!

mcrow

Agreed! The Troll is perefect for what he described he'd want to use it for.

Thing will hand most anything you throw at it with some good components and wheels.

Terryble

Welcome to the Troll club, enjoy the ride

pathofwrath

I've got my LBS building me a bike starting with a Surly Long Haul Trucker frame. Can't wait till its done!