Moustache Handlebars: The Awful Truth
#26
"Light is right"
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Henderson/Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 168
Bikes: 06 Cannondale Synapse, 93 Bridgestone XO-1 (commuter), 90 Specialized Sirrus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
"I've previously owned the Nittos and currently have the Nashbars and I may actually perfer the Nashbars."
CBBaron How are they better? Why do you prefer them?
CBBaron How are they better? Why do you prefer them?
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 150
Bikes: Trek 7300FX Disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Bklyn
1) do they leave room for a headlight, and 2) how the hell do they work? Do I have to splice through my regular brake levers?
2) These levers work by pushing on the cable housing. You need to make 1 cut in the housing for each brake, then drop the lever in the cut (add some little metal fittings if you've got them, though they'll work adequately without). The cable threads back through the whole thing like before, except now you've got an extra brake lever.
#28
Ex-Lion Tamer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Posts: 1,152
Bikes: 1982 Lotus Legend (steel-frame touring bike); 1982 Fuji S10S (converted to a singlespeed: 46x16); Specialized Crossroads hybrid (the child taxi).
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Brian: I think I understand the concept. But I wrote a message to Paul Components (makers of pretty expensive cross levers) and Paul himself responded. He told me that their levers work only with aero brakes. You think this is the case with all of these? Kind of a drag, because I was starting to think that this was my solution.
#29
Gemutlichkeit
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,423
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by ebr898
I am trying a North Road bar (inverted with about 1 1/4 cut off the ends) on a thrown together fixie. I looks alot like a mustache bar but has a larger flat in the middle. I do not have very many miles on it yet but it seems to work ok. I set it up with non ero roadbike brake handles that I wraped with bar tape to give a large area for my palms to rest like the article from Brigstone bicycles describes. I started to put brake levers like I use on my bull horn bars it had a very smooth look to it but it would prevent having one more gripping spot.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 1,602
Bikes: Pugsley, fixie commuter, track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Plosive
"I've previously owned the Nittos and currently have the Nashbars and I may actually perfer the Nashbars."
CBBaron How are they better? Why do you prefer them?
CBBaron How are they better? Why do you prefer them?
The main reason I think I pefer the Nashbars is the longer drop section. I have large hands and I didn't have much room on the Nittos. However I did not have both handlebars on the same bike or even at the same time. The bike with the Nittos was stolen from my garage and I bought the Nashbars as replacement on a budget.
I spend most of my time on the flat sections at the ends of the bar or on the curve just behind the brake levers. I find it quick and easy to get the the brakes from either position with the curve being the best position to use the brakes. The curve on the moustache bars is a a similar reach but a little wider than the hoods on a drop bar but it is much easier to use the brakes from that position. In addition it is much easier to get from the "drops" to the brakes on a moustache than it is to get from the top to the hoods on a drop bar. Also the hand positions on the moustache are all wider than the tops of a drop so it gives you better control.
If you are spending all of your time on the tops then you probably need to raise your handlebars. Your current stem probably doesn't have much adjustment so you might want to look at a new stem. I found some Kalloy in the QBP catalog (you can order them from you favorite LBS) that are inexpensive and have a position angle to allow you to raise your bars up. You may want to do this no matter which bar you go with.
I just know I am never going back to a flat/riser bar. Even my MTB is getting an H-bar or a Mary.
Craig
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 1,602
Bikes: Pugsley, fixie commuter, track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Bklyn
Brian: I think I understand the concept. But I wrote a message to Paul Components (makers of pretty expensive cross levers) and Paul himself responded. He told me that their levers work only with aero brakes. You think this is the case with all of these? Kind of a drag, because I was starting to think that this was my solution.
Cross levers (there are much less expensive ones than Paul) work in-line with aero brake levers. On aero levers the brake cable runs along the handlebar. Cross levers require you to cut the cable housing and then run the cable through the cross lever. The lever works by lengthening the cable housing instead of pulling the cable. It is a simple and effective mechanism. However old style levers run the cable away from the handlebars so you can't run them through the cross lever.
Craig
#32
Humvee of bikes =Worksman
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 5,362
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
I used the Nashbar moustach bars but I flipped them over to
use the rise instead of the drops. Kinda like North Roads but
not as steep on the rise.
use the rise instead of the drops. Kinda like North Roads but
not as steep on the rise.
#33
Ex-Lion Tamer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Posts: 1,152
Bikes: 1982 Lotus Legend (steel-frame touring bike); 1982 Fuji S10S (converted to a singlespeed: 46x16); Specialized Crossroads hybrid (the child taxi).
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Tightwad
I used the Nashbar moustach bars but I flipped them over to
use the rise instead of the drops. Kinda like North Roads but
not as steep on the rise.
use the rise instead of the drops. Kinda like North Roads but
not as steep on the rise.
#34
Gemutlichkeit
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,423
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
North Roads on a Trek 520. Levers are Avid SD-7 mtb
https://i2.tinypic.com/sowtc7.jpg
https://i2.tinypic.com/sowu3a.jpg
https://i2.tinypic.com/sowtc7.jpg
https://i2.tinypic.com/sowu3a.jpg
#35
Humvee of bikes =Worksman
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 5,362
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
Originally Posted by Bklyn
so what kind of brake levers are you using? and where?
I use whatever fits and works most all of the time.
#36
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
stop worrying about stupid handlebars and RIDE your bike. my track bike is has a 53-16 gear ratio, track bars and really really tight geometry.and i ride 45 minutes to and from my first job,then another hour ride to my second job after that.everyday.if you ride it, it will become great.do it
#37
aka: Mike J.
Well, that was a fairly safe entry to the site here, dredge up a post from 2 years and 5 months ago and slam one for the gipper
Welcome to the site, now post a pic of your bike please.
In the mean time I'll go home tonight and fret about which bars to put on the converted MTB commuter/tourer/urban-basher-bike.
Welcome to the site, now post a pic of your bike please.
In the mean time I'll go home tonight and fret about which bars to put on the converted MTB commuter/tourer/urban-basher-bike.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 11,375
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
stop worrying about stupid handlebars and RIDE your bike. my track bike is has a 53-16 gear ratio, track bars and really really tight geometry.and i ride 45 minutes to and from my first job,then another hour ride to my second job after that.everyday.if you ride it, it will become great.do it
"Uncomfortable" will not mysteriously transmogrify into "great" just by spending time riding it. If your initial setup is horrible, all you're going to do is damage yourself trying to adapt to it. Handlebars are one of the 5 contact points you should concentrate on the most when settling in on bike configuration.
__________________
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
Likes For CliftonGK1:
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 559
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I tried the mustache bar on one of my bikes, after a year long recommendation from my wrench. I am in love with them. I have a bad back and riding with the mustache bar has saved my back. I now put them on all of my bikes.
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,847
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2338 Post(s)
Liked 2,827 Times
in
1,543 Posts
How far is the commute? I still tend to like road bars for longer distance but for 5 miles i put something similar to these on my utilty/commuter/japanese 8 spd https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...9¤cy=USD
You do need new brake levers, because of the clearance, but you can get them pretty cheap
You do need new brake levers, because of the clearance, but you can get them pretty cheap
#41
Ex-Lion Tamer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Posts: 1,152
Bikes: 1982 Lotus Legend (steel-frame touring bike); 1982 Fuji S10S (converted to a singlespeed: 46x16); Specialized Crossroads hybrid (the child taxi).
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
For what it's worth, this post is more than two years old, and I've since abandoned the mustache bars. What people say about drop bars, it turns out, is true: they are completely versatile and offer myriad hand positions. The mustache bars extended the cockpit of the bike too far, although they were not bad for climbing hills. They do look neat, though, and I've got a pair of the old Nashbar mustaches just clanging around my basement if anybody wants them....
#42
Slowpoach
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne, AU
Posts: 1,091
Bikes: Cannondale T800, Northwood tandem, 1970s Gitane fixxed 45x16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#43
Bicycle Utopian
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 787
Bikes: Bianchi Campione d'Italia, Softride Qualifier, Ritchey Breakaway Cyclocross
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Another option is to go with a randonneaur bar like this one from Velo Orange. Has the multiple hand placement option of a drop bar with a wider design and a more upright hand position.
#44
CRIKEY!!!!!!!
Join Date: May 2005
Location: all the way down under
Posts: 4,276
Bikes: several
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1589 Post(s)
Liked 687 Times
in
365 Posts
bikinpolitico, I really like the look of that raddoneaur bar from velo orange!
here's another option to consider...
Track bullhorns work just fine with road levers on my tourer/commuter. These levers are from Dia-compe, they are specifically designed to work with v-brakes.
here's another option to consider...
Track bullhorns work just fine with road levers on my tourer/commuter. These levers are from Dia-compe, they are specifically designed to work with v-brakes.
__________________
"Surely one can love his own country without becoming hopelessly lost in an all-consuming flame of narrow-minded nationalism" - Fred Birchmore
"Surely one can love his own country without becoming hopelessly lost in an all-consuming flame of narrow-minded nationalism" - Fred Birchmore
#45
formerly turdsandwich
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 425
Bikes: 1993 Specialized Allez Pro, 1984 Trek 520, 198? Ross Mt St Helens, 1980 Raleigh Super Gran Prix, 197? Raleigh Gran Prix SS City Banger, 2012 Lynskey ProCross Disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I've got a pair of the old Nashbar mustaches just clanging around my basement if anybody wants them....
#46
Senior Member
have you thought of trekking bars? they give you the same advantages as a moustache bar and more...
#48
Senior Member
For what it's worth, this post is more than two years old, and I've since abandoned the mustache bars. What people say about drop bars, it turns out, is true: they are completely versatile and offer myriad hand positions. The mustache bars extended the cockpit of the bike too far, although they were not bad for climbing hills. They do look neat, though, and I've got a pair of the old Nashbar mustaches just clanging around my basement if anybody wants them....
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 389
Bikes: Masi Speciale Randonneur, Fuji del Ray, Co-Motion Speedster
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If the problem is that you can't reach the hoods comfortably, you may need a shorter/taller stem. I don't think mustache bars would make a difference, as your reach to the brakes will be about the same as with drop bars.
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 987
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
bars, bars and bars
The problem with mustache bars is that most people don't change to a taller and shorter length stem. You have to get them up higher for them to work right unless you have unusually long arms and torso. My mustache bar bike is fine for shorter rides under 30 miles. I can grip the handle section, the curves, or on top of the bar by the brake hoods. These bars are great for blasting around in the city. They give me a heads up position and I have quick access to powerful braking but I still get a near handshake position on the curve for wrist/hand comfort. The only reason I like drops better is for the headwind position on the drops and I like riding on the hoods. Its nice to own more than one bike.