mister

I'm graduating with my BS in a couple weeks and for a graduation gift, my parents decided they wanted to help me build a new commuter/ cyclocross bike. I had been looking at the Specialized Tricross then got the idea that it would be really awesome to have a summer project to work on with my dad so I opted to build a bike from the ground up with the ultimate goal being to ride it in a century ride in September. So far, I've put together a list of parts from Nashbar but thought I'd ask you guys for your input. It's going to be a commuter, but I want it to be versitile enough to use as a commuter and road bike as well. I have my Hardrock for more "rugged" needs.

Here's what I've more or less settled on

-Nashbar aluminum cylclocross frame
- Nashbar carbon cyclocross fork
- Shimano Dura-Ace 9sp triple upgrade kit (includes triple crank, BB, shift/ brake levers, front and rear derailleurs, and all the cables)
- Shimano Dura-Ace 9sp cassette (12-23)
- Shimano 9sp chain
- Cantilever brakes
- Cane creek S-2 headset with Nashbar carbon fiber spacers
- Ritchey pro road bar (31.8mm)
- Ritchey pro road stem (110mm)
- Mavic CXP 22/ Shimano M475 hub black wheel set

I'm going to use some Armadillo tires. I'm still not sure on seatpost and saddle yet. The wheel set is negotiable. I like the 26", but I also want to go with a 700c wheel set but strength is a concern since I will also be using it on some rough streets. Comments, suggestions, etc. are all welcomed. I've never actually put a bike together from the ground up so it'll be a new experience.

Steev

A triple with a 12-23 cassette is a little odd, you could possibly get pretty well the same range of gearing with a double, possibly a compact double and a wider range cassette. Just a thought.
If you go with the cyclo-cross frame and cantilevers, you will need to go 700c wheels to get the brake pads to line up with the rims. The Mavic rims should be plenty strong enough for your purposes, go with 32 or 36 spoke, 3 cross lacing. The quality of the wheel build has a very strong influence on wheel strength, so consider a profressional build if you're worried about your wheels holding up to abuse.
Sounds like a nice all-round bike.

mister

What cassette would you recommend for a triple (total noob to all this stuff)? After searching over the weekend, it seems like a professional build for the wheels is in line. I'll have to do more research into wheel and hub combinations.

DanO220

Mister;

One reason I've looked seriously at that frame and fork are with a 700c disc brake wheelset in mind. You should consider it. Imagine, the sidewalls of your new rims looking new a couple seasons down the road. Imagine, not having to center your brakes all the time. I know they're cyclocross tradition and all... but I think that while they might have once been state of the art, compared to newer designs canti's just plain suck. They're difficult to set up properly, and even then they just don't have the power of a good set of V-brakes - let alone discs. I built a Surly Croscheck up with cantilevers and changed over to V-brakes within a month.

Also; stick with a road compact double up front. It will give you plenty of range and look alot cleaner in the process. Just mount it on a 113mm wide bottom bracket so it will match up with the 135mm MTB hub spacing in back.

And what about some mustache bars with durace bar-end shifters?

DanO

mister

Thanks for the advice DanO. I'll check into it. I was thinking of going with a double instead of the triple to keep it clean like you mentioned. Discs have always been an idea but I've never really considered it. Probably because of tradition and the whole mentality of "it's worked for years, why switch?" As for the mustache bars, I'll check it out.

Banzai

For a commuter, I'm a big fan of 12-26 minimum on the rear cassette. Call me a wimp, but on days with heavy loads, high winds, nasty hills...or 430-500 AM and I just don't have the energy, I like to have a bit of a "bailout" available there. On my current commuter I have an 11-30 rear cassette.

I don't think you necessarily need disc brakes. It's an expensive and heavy option that does have its advantages, but disadvantages as well. There have been some recent threads about the pros/cons.

Why Dura-ace? It's good stuff, but you're not building a racing bike. Just me, but I wouldn't spring that kind of bling on my commuter. Maybe I'm turning into a "beater grouch" (similar to a retro-grouch) but on my commuter the bits and pieces are kept fairly basic. Lots of 8 speed stuff that's not too expensive (but not too cheap) and won't attract unwanted attention. Nor will I cry if I damage it somehow in all of its "utility riding."

I'll preface this by saying that I don't think the Nashbar frame is bad. Now...that may serve it's purpose on the "low bling factor". Being somewhat generic looking, without "Specialized TriCross" painted on it may serve to be a little bit of low profile thief camo.

Steev

I can't directly answer that. It depends on your fitness, your riding style, your terrain and to a small extent on your frame. Myself, I get around on 52-39 front with 11-23 rear on my road bike, but 28-38-48 front with 12-28 rear on my hybrid. Note I no longer use the granny on the hybrid and the bike I'm currently building will be a double. I could never get around on the hybrid using the same gearing as the road bike, the difference, the quality of the frame.

joejack951

If I had to build a new commuter from the ground up (and I can't wait until I manage to justify it to myself ), I'd start with what I've got. The major things to consider are your needs in terms of gearing, brakes, racks, fenders, and tires.

In terms of gearing, look at the terrain you ride or may ride. If it's all flat, derailler gears may just be added complication. If you've got hills, how strong of a rider are you and how heavy of loads do you intend to carry? A double road crank may suit a strong rider who only carries a small backpack just fine but if you haul heavy loads or a trailer up steep grades, you may even want a MTB triple.

For brakes, again consider terrain and also weather. Lots of steep descents make disc brakes seem like a good choice as does foul weather. For flat conditions, you might be able to get away with something as simple as a coaster brake. Also, your brake choce may determine your frame choice and vice versa. Think that one through before making a decision or you could be stuck.

The last three, rack, fenders, and tires, again will affect frame choice. Many road bike frames cannot accept a rack, fenders, or large tires. Cyclocross frames are somewhat limited in tire choice as well although not nearly as bad as a road frame.

I'm sure someone else has a more complete list but these are the things that I would look for in building a new commuter.

jordanb

I've briefly considered building myself a commuter a few times (mainly it involves trying to sell my Bianchi for a significant fraction of what I have in it). If I were to do it I'd go with an all SRAM component set, just cause it's cool that SRAM is built in Chicago. I'd base it around the S7 hub. I'd try to find an old steel frame with dropouts wide enough for a modern hub. Go with the drum break in the back and the disc break in the front, etc.

But anyhow. One thing you may not be aware of with that carbon fork is that you won't be able to use a front rack. Granted I rarely need my front rack for commuting but you mentioned going on a century. If you want to do any serious touring the inability to mount a front rack will become a serious issue.

DanO220

You know I have to say banzai_f16 has a very good point concerning the choice of Durace... especially on a $200 frame. Most riders, and even some racers, would make due with Shimano's 105 components in order to upgrade to a $500-$1000 frame.

And like jordanb, I like the Sram idea, but for a slightly different reason. If it were me; I'd still like to try the econo frame with mechanical disc brakes. (Basically because I'm a bottom feeder.) But I would go with a single ring in the front and Sram's Xo MTB derailleur with a 12-26 in the rear. I've heard it's a kickin' derailleur and shifter system that will match XTR any day. I used to have Sram's Spectro 7 hub on my Crosscheck. It's now on my wife's commuter. Say no more. My own commuter is running the aforementioned 1x9 drive train, but with a lesser Sram 5.0 derailleur and twistgrip.

And one more thing. I upgraded my Crosscheck's fork to a Winwood carbon cross fork that looks JUST like the Nashbar item. It's gotta be made by the same firm or licensed. Anyway, at first I was hesitant with it, not having ever entrusted carbon to keep me up and alive. But 3 years later I think nothing of running bad pavement, bunnyhopping potholes and dropping off curbs. It's a good item.

DanO

robmcl

I just rebuilt a MTB commuter this spring. I originally kept the cantilever brakes that were on but they gave me a lot of grief to set up and adjust. I finally got it. Then I put the fenders on and there was not enough romm with the cantilever brakes. I finally gave up and got a pair of V brakes. The V-brakes are much easier to deal with and they work better. Save yourself the hassle.

ncscott

When I moved from flat Illinois to mountainous N Carolina I put on an old mt bike derailer and a cassette that topped out at 32 or maybe higher. This is on a frame that is strictly for racing. The combo works great with older 105 STI levers. If you are going with a wider range of gears, then get the widest range and it will be more versitle. For a cyclo cross frame, I would go with a double and a mt cassette. For a tournig frame I would switch to the tripple. I agree with the Durace comment, go with ceaper. My 105 that is 10 years old still works great. I even have original wheels.
Scott

huhenio

I vote also for the double ring. Get a 38-50 and call it good, most climbs should not require you anything lower than that. On the high end, you can pedal plenty downhill in traffic with a 50-12

wsexson

Huh? I am using cantis and I only had to center them when I built the bike. They weren't any harder to set up than V-brakes, and they stop just as well (I have used both). In my experience, cantis work just as well as V-brakes and cantis are generally a better choice if you want to use road brake levers than V-brakes. I do not have any experience with disc brakes, however.

motorhommmer

Would not touch Disk brakes for commuting, too heavy and block mud guards sometimes. No need to go Dura-ace, Ultegra or LX Mtb crank and cassette more than enough.
Would go Deore, LX or XT hubs.

AndrewP

A triple with a close ratio cluster at the back will give much slicker shifting and you will always have the right gear available. I find cantilevers a pain to adjust, but I dont have any experience of V brakes with the cable pull gizmo. What pedals, mudguards, lights and rack will you be fitting?

DanO220

You're absolutely correct about canti's staying centered. I should have made it clear that V-brakes would require more frequent centering than canti's... let alone discs.

[/QUOTE]They weren't any harder to set up than V-brakes, and they stop just as well (I have used both). In my experience, cantis work just as well as V-brakes...[/QUOTE]

I've use both as well - some fairly high speed Avid Shorty 6 canti's, as well as all sorts of lower end Shimano and Avid V-brakes. And in my opinion the V-brakes were a snap to set up compared to the cantilevers. I've also compared them back to back (riding mine and my wife's bikes down the same hill) and the canti's required a much more forceful squeeze on the lever, while giving much less feedback. And I assure you that I gave the canti's a fair shake, having spent alot of time adjusting them between runs. I'll be fitting my wife's bike with V-brakes as soon as I can.

[/QUOTE]...and cantis are generally a better choice if you want to use road brake levers than V-brakes.[/QUOTE]

If you've already got a pair of road levers you're absolutely right there. Running those roller cable adapters will only nullify the V-brakes superior leverage. But if you're buying new, DiaCompe makes road levers which will pull enough cable to operate V-brakes.

marqueemoon

If you have a Dura Ace budget to play with, put more money into the frame. Handbuilt wheels are another great place to put some $$$. As long as you're piecing it together, keep a lookout on Craigslist for gently used components or a bike you might be able to raid for them.

Revtor

I echo Andrew P's advise of "A triple with a close ratio cluster at the back will give much slicker shifting and you will always have the right gear available" the close ratio cassette (12-25 for me) really allows fine tuning of ratio when riding as opposed to an 11-32 or whatever MTB casette. I have Nashbar's "Trekking Crankset" 28-38-48. its the perfect setup for me... (52... for what!?) Having the third ring is fun if you occasionally like to travel on to a rough trail in the woods, up a steep hill in a park, or just ride wheelies when you're bored.. Or if youre going to tour ever..

~Steve