dephile

First for forum post...be gentle. After going a complete month with my bike as my only transport, I sold my only car. I then purchased a brand new specialized globe to replace my mountain bike that might have belonged Moses. So now that I am completely reliant on my brand new bike what do I need to do to make sure it last far as maintaining, and cleaning? I got the keep the chain clean and oiled, but there has to be something else.

eAspenwood

you could buy a bicycle maintenance book if you really wanna be on top of things, but here's what i do:

1. keep an eye on your brake pads.
2. be vigilant about cuts in your tires; as soon as u see any touch-up with gorilla glue or something so u extend the life of the tire.
3. diagnose problems as they arise, and determine if they need fixin right away or not.
4. keep the chain clean.

ok_commuter

Ride it every day will be the best way to keep it in top condition.

BA Commuter

At the end of the week, I usually wipe it down, lube where needed, check the tires, brakes and tighten any loose parts. I feel ready to go first thing Monday morning. It only takes about 5-10 minutes...

Grim

Any mechanical aptitude?

I'm always playing with my bikes. Truing the wheels, checking for play in the bearings etc.

The only noise you really should hear when you bike is right is the chain hitting the gears and tires on the pavement (and the freewheel click). If you start getting new noises investigate them. Make sure stuff is tight. Nothing sucks more then something falling off when you are rolling down the road.

Water=bad. If you puddle jump really start listening for new noises and do much more frequent servicing. If you U boat the bike or wash it with a garden hose then it is time to take it apart and make sure the bearings are not full of water. Water and mud will screw stuff up faster the anything else you can do.

A lot of people think there is more to a bike then there really is. The specialized tools needed is the biggest part of doing you own maintenance. 2-3 paid tuneups and you have probably paid for most of the tools you need.

Wheel bearings are proably your biggest concern on a new bike like yours. Some bikes are going totally sealed bearings some still have traditional bearings that require periodic service. Find out what you have. If they are sealed....nothing you can do. When you feel slop its time to replace them.

Bottom bracket is mostly sealed these days so no service possible. I would however do regular once overs to check for things loosening up. I just recently found my bottom bracket loosed up in the frame. I started getting a click when I was really having to put some oomph in on hills. In a couple days it was taking less and less to make the noise. Had I ignored it it may have stripped the threads out of the frame.

Tools I would concider getting:

Long handled ball end Allen wrenches. Sears, Lowes and Home-depot sells a nice set. https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946274000P

Cassette removal tool and chain whip. Bike store for these

Once I have my cassette off I just throw it in a can of carb soak https://users.rcn.com/kochc/moto/carb/crb_cln1.jpg to soften up the road crud they collect and a long bristle part cleaning brush. Available at any auto parts store. Just becarfull if you have plastic parts. Only do this if your gear cluster doesn't have the free hub as a perment part of it. Sometimes carb soak is not good for plastic so make sure what you are tossing in there has no plastic parts in it. This stuff is also good for cleaning serviceable wheel bearing parts. This stuff works magic in your chain cleaner tool. Just wipe any splatters on the paint QUICK. DO NOT put non serviceable bearings in it. It will kill them becasue it will dissolve the grease in them that you cant put back in. Just be weary of where you use this. It will take paint and varnish off floors and stain concrete.

Bottom bracket tool so you can make sure it stays tight.

Crank puller.

spoke key.

Flat wrenches if you have serviceable bearings on the wheels. https://www.parktool.com/products/category.asp?cat=3

Parker sells a mechanics kit but that might be overkill for you just having one bike. Just buy the individual tools that fit your bike. Your dealer where you got the bike should be able to help you out.

Grease for wheel bearings...I'm using Mobile1 synthetic wheel bearing grease from the auto parts store. Love the stuff. Lots cheaper then buying little tubes from the bike store.

Can't beat Sheldon's website for repair tips.
https://sheldonbrown.com/repair/index.html

MrRamonG

Keep your tire pressure at the right PSI. Very important. Pinched tubes blow!!

dephile

Wow, I don’t think I was prepared for that. I'm seeing a trip to the book store in my future. I don’t mind the idea of stripping down the bike to grease bearings but I’m a little concerned about getting it back together properly. I guess some trail and error will be needed on the old mtb.

Sirrus Rider

Whoa! I wouldn't be that willing to strip it down completely to grease bearings. Particularly in this era of cartridge bearings and sealed bearings. I try to do mine at least once a year. I've even gone 5 years without digging my most ridden bike apart. Most would vouch for a repacking if you've ridden in wet weather where the bike has been saturated.

What I do on a weekly basis is I try to keep my chain clean and oiled. I usually run a chain cleaning machine on which ever one(s) I'm riding that I've touched for three rides or the equivalent of 75 to 100 miles. Anything more frequent you'll wind up back in the constantly attended automobile situation and needing gallons of chain cleaner and lubricants.

ironhorse3

I recently got a bike repair stand as my first specialized tool and find it very handy. Some may not know about these so look around and get a good one.

alanbikehouston

Charlie Cunningham, one of the original designers of mountain bikes, had some interesting comments about taking care of a bike. He noted that new bikes need adjustments as bolts get loose, bearings get out of adjustment, and cables stretch.

But, after the first couple hundred miles, he said that just ONE thing is the key to taking care of a bike: a very clean chain. He says that if the chain is clean, cogs and chain wheels last forever. A dirty chain is what wears out the drivetrain.

So, keep a rag handy, and spend two minutes running the chain through the rag after every ride. When you run the chain through the rag, and the rag remains white, the chain is clean. Then pour a bit of Pedro's Ice Wax on the rag and run the chain through the rag again for a minute. Let the chain dry overnight, and then run the chain through a dry rag before your next ride to get off the excess lube.

That whole process takes less than five minutes, but insures that you begin a ride with a clean chain. Nice shifting, quiet running, and a drivetrain that will last for many trouble-free years.

crhilton

I don't see this one yet.

If you have rim brakes (I think you do), wipe the rims down. This is sort of an "as often as possible" thing. But I'd say just try to do it weekly. The idea is to avoid leaving dust particles on the rims which wear them faster during breaking.

Just a damp towel, paper towel, or napkin. You'll probably turn the towel black in no time.

I think your bike is aluminum. Move the seatpost every now and then (like, yearly). I usually mark my saddle height with a piece of black electrical tape, that way it's difficult to see but easy to reset my seat height.

Have a good relationship with a mechanic, or get some tools. The trouble with relying on one bike is that you may need to go without it for a day or two while it's under repairs. For example, if a spoke breaks you may prefer to fix it yourself when you get the change and ride your other bike. So you might keep that bike that pre-dates Moses.

BCRider

Better yet for the seatpost. Grease the part that goes in the frame as well as the inside of the upper part of the seat tube. That way you don't need to move it around often. Once a year take it out and wipe it clean and regrease it before again inserting it.

stevage

Hmm, wish I'd read this thread before I repeatedly submerged my bike in a lake to wash mud off it. Maybe I should take it in for (yet another) free service...

I really had no idea water could get into the bearings. I was more worried about water getting into the frame and not getting out. But then with an alloy frame I guess it doesn't rust...?

Steve

Throwmeabone

I don't think you could ever get a chain clean enough to keep a rag white..

Grim

With a new bike I imaging you get a free tune up after it gets a little broken in. After that you won't need any major services for quite a while (as long as you don't U-Boat it). When you need to do maintenance is really going to be governed by how many miles you ride and conditions. A bike like yours used on mostly pavement is not going to need a lot. Just plan on cleaning the chain when it gets crusty and wiggling the rims and cranks to see if you feel the bearings getting loose. A full on mountain bike that gets run through the crud regularly is going to need more frequent attention. Its getting dunked. Its mud all over it and in it. If you find slop in the serviceable bearings then its time to inspect them to see if the grease has dried out. If it has then full tear down clean and assembly with fresh high quality grease is needed.


There is some really good info in the maintenance section. Pick a part to service on the old bike and have at it. Start with the front wheel bearings. That needs minimal tools. Just be careful when you pull it apart. If it is older it may have loose bearings. Make sure when you pull it apart that you do so over something that will not let the bearing escape. Old cooking sheet with a lip around it is good. Tools you will need is the flat wrenches and a telescopic magnet to fish the bearing out. https://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=360-362.

Here is a exploded of the typical front hubs that don't have sealed bearings.
https://www.neinlives.com.au/Exploded/FrontHubs.gif

The rear cassette style non sealed is actually very similar on the bearing set up. Same parts but it passes through the free hub. Sheldon's site has good info on the freehub itself and how to remove it. Most are not serviceable so if you ever have a problem its just a mater of replacing it.

Only take the jam-nut and bearing cone loose on one side. The other side doesn't need to come off the axle. If it is left on it also keeps the spacing correct to fit in the frame.

Depending on the rim you may need to pop the dust overs out. You need to find something with a T head that can fit down in the hole and then catch the inner lip. Then use the axle from the other side to push it out.

Putting it back together is just the reverse.

the grease will hold the bearings in place when you reassemble it. Always put the side that still has the bearing cone on the axle first. Drop it through and then hold it in place till you flip over the wheel to do the other side so you don't drop the bearings out.

When you get both side in setting the preload is trial and error. It should spin free but have no play. If it is too tight it will feel lumpy when you spin the axle with your fingers. The only drag you should feel is from the grease.

That is the major service on the bearings. Really sounds harder then it is. The rest os just fine adjustment of the brakes and derailleurs. I did both wheels, Bottom bracket and the fine turn on my bike in about 3 hours. Probably wont need anything else other then wheel truing for 6-12 months unless I break a cable or something unforeseen gives up.

Grim

Might ask what a service includes. I know a couple bike shop that means adjust the brakes. Make sure the wheel spins free, clean the chain and sent it out the door. Disassembly of the hubs may not be part of the "free service".

The seat tube runs the water right down into the bottom bracket on most bikes. If the seat tube you have is open at the top you can guaranteed the bottom bracket is sitting in water. Wish I had taken a picture of the rust on the bottom bracket of mine when I had it out last Saturday. Just pulling the non chain ring crank off and pulling that sides bearing retainer will let you see if its full of waters and like I pointed out most are not serviceable. Drain it out let it dry. run it till it starts getting play and replace it.


If its sealed bearings then it may not be a big deal but older bikes often have no seals into the bearings. See that exploded link I just put in the last post. There is a pretty good gap all the way around cone race on the dust cover on the common Shimano hubs. If its not packed full of grease the water can easily get into the bearings.


As for alloy frame. Aluminum and steel are bad company. Water will be a catalyst to electrolysis corrosion between dissimilar metals. If that happens on the bottom bracket where it screws into the frame....well you are screwed. You may take half the threads out of the frame getting the bottom bracket out. Always use grease or a anti seize where different metals come in contact with each other. That will lubricate and more importantly it will cut off the oxygen that is needed for the corrosion to form.

striegel 

This list looks like a good candidate for a sticky thread in the forum. What do you think?

dephile

thx for all the great info. if i run into any probs ill know where i can get some advice. thx again

crhilton

Do you do this with carbon posts too?