cyccommute 

Reread my post. I seat the axles the same way each time. I make sure that the axle is properly engaged in the drop out before doing any kind of brake work...disc or rim...since this is usually the cause of rubbing brake problems. If someone comes to me with rubbing brakes...and I've worked on the bike previously...the axle position is the first thing I check. It makes no difference. The first disc equipped bike I owned I thought that the wheel removal/disc centering problem was a fluke. Now that I've had regular exposure to at least 5 more disc equipped bikes...with different brake systems...each of which have had the same problem, as well as colleen c's problem, I don't think it's a fluke anymore.

Disc brakes have very little lever throw to move the pads. There is only the width of a credit card for the pads to move to be fully engaged. But little lever throw translates into very little margin of error or very little margin of adjustment. Squeeze just a little too hard and you go from full off to full on to full lock. Hydraulic brakes are worse than cable brakes because you are trying to compress an incompressible liquid. At least with cables you have a little bit of cable stretch to modulate the brake.

One caveat: The disc on my current mountain bike are Juicy 7s with stock pads. These are known to be very grabby and I should swap pads to an organic pad but I don't ride that bike all that much..it has other issues that I don't like and won't go into here... and just haven't gotten around to changing the pads.

colleen c

I have Avid on one mtb and Hayes on another. I set both wheels to the fork with the weight of the bike resting on the wheel and properly seated before tightening the QR. Less than 1/4 turn of the QR makes a difference on the Avid while the Hayes is more forgiving.

Reading Alan S post does make me wonder about the axle itself on the drop out. I'm thinking perhaps any imperfection of the DO or the end of the flat surface area where the axle contact the DO might just be enough to not be square and create disc rub. This may explain why some folks don't have any problems while other do. I think I will experiment with that by marking the axle and then remove the OR and turn the axle 180 and the tighten the QR on the same tension to see if that shift the centerline of the disc in the caliper.

alan s 

You got it right.

daredevil

Just started reading the thread and this expresses my experiences exactly.

Just_Ryan

I totally agree with you, up until the conclusion. The difference in our conclusions might be based on how often the 5000-ish mile count comes up. If that's once a year (about right for me), you're swapping rims every year and I feel like that's a bit much. That's why my next daily use bike will be discs, I think. But if you're riding 1000 miles per year, I would stick with rim brakes. I'm happy keeping rim brakes on my beater bike.

Kojak

If you have good quality, well maintained conventional brakes, stopping is not an issue (or not the issue).

If you put in a lot of miles in wet mucky weather, especially in traffic where you engage your brakes with some frequency, you will eat through a set of rims. Inspect the rims frequently; when the braking surface gets dished out, it's time for a new rim.

If your rim flys apart like mine did, I hope you're as lucky as I was.... I was doing nearly 50mph down a very steep descent when mine let go. My winter commuter has disc brakes now.

yarb

I had discs (BB5 mech) on my previous commuter and they were a bit fiddly to adjust but worked great. I understand BB7's are easier to adjust.

I have v-brakes on my current commuter and they are fine in the rain, but I will be switching the front to a disc, probably hydro, when the rim gets thin or I get my bonus, whichever comes first.

Basically I agree with those saying that for a heavy-use, all-weather bike, discs have an edge over rim brakes.

Joltman

I've got Avid Juicy 3 hydraulic discs on my bike. Only time they squeal is when I`ve been riding for quite some time without having to hit the brakes in dusty conditions or when there is a stiff onshore breeze and salt spray collects on them. The squeal only lasts for as long as the braking pressure is light. Give em a decent squeeze and it's gone.

They have excellent modulation. My MTB has Avid BB5s and they used to squeal with the original pads and like another poster when they wore out i put in some non-Avid Semi-Metalic pads and they have been squeal free since. Modulation on these basic mechanical discs is also very good.

I've noticed that some disc brake systems are prone to sequealing more than others. Some of the folks I ride with on weekends have essentially the same bike as me but run Shimano mechanical discs which squeal like nobodies business. I am guessing it has a lot to do with the rotor design and pad composition. The Shimano discs state they should be used with resin based pads only.

jonas604

I went through the exact same process here in Vancouver last year. Was commuting on v-brakes for two years, but was burning through Kool Stop Salmons very quickly with my daily descent into downtown. As mentioned, the combination of grit and endless water becomes a lot for rims if you keep up the riding year-round, which I do. I went with BB7s on a cyclocross frame (Soma Double Cross DC) courtesy of Mighty Riders. On 32mm tires it's a dream....

fishonabike

I also ride in downtown Vancouver every day, all year round, and am also in the disc brake camp. The biggest factor, imo, is predictability. Riding in Vancouver, you're often in mist / light rain, and you don't really know how wet your brakes and tires are. The discs stop the same in all conditions (tire skid is another issue).

If you are concerned about complexity, get cable. Unless you are doing big downhills, or carrying a big load, or mountain biking the shore, you don't really need hydraulic.

GriddleCakes

Word. Every time that I've been unable to stop my rotor from rubbing, it's been because I'd overtightened the skewer.

cyccommute, I'm not an engineer and as such cannot claim to know why disc brakes modulate braking better than v-brakes. I understand how they both work, and you're correct that there is less cable pull involved in actuating a disc brake. Perhaps the tactile difference comes from the fact that the braking force is being applied directly to the hub, and not the rim? I don't know.

I do know that your experience that disc brakes have worse modulation runs counter to everything I've heard about other cyclists' experiences with disc brakes, most of whom regularly used disc (which you admit that you do not). My lady's dad did his first tour on an old MTB with linear pull brakes. His last two tours, and his current one, were done on a bike with disc. He's hundreds of miles on one, thousands on the other; and thinks disc modulates better. I put a few thousand commuting miles on my old v-brake MTB, and I've put thousands more on my current disc bike. I even regularly ride the old v-brake MTB, for the sole purpose of checking its braking. The disc brake bike modulates better.

There is a learning curve to every kind of brake, as they all perform a little bit differently. I know a gal who, the first time she rode a bike with v-brakes, launched herself over the handlebars and broke her collarbone in the REI parking lot; even though the employees had warned her that the v-brakes would have noticeably more stopping power than her old caliper brakes. To her, in that moment, the v-brakes were too touchy, only on or only off. It took a bit of convincing to get her to try v-brakes again, but she did. For a while she did complain about how touchy they were, but eventually she learned how to modulate them.

InTheRain

Suomalaisilla on paljon sisua... I don't ride in the snow.

coldfeet

To those in the minority, Cyclocommute and Benge Boy, do you have previous road motorcycle experience?

I find the light shussing sound i sometimes get mildly annoying, but I wouldn't call it "dragging" I don't think this is what you are talking about, but it is a minor problem.

The "modulation" thing, that's more serious, and I wonder if it is simply having no exposure to seriously powerful brakes. On some motorcycles, I have done full on panic stops which had the rear wheel balanced off the ground for noticeable portions of the stop. I use the front brake almost exclusively, the rear brake is often "on" but if the front brake suddenly failed, I would be barely slowing until my grip on the back brake tightened.

billdsd

Here are some interesting alternatives:

https://sdbikecommuter.com/forums/com...ionID=7&page=1

fender1

Discs are not required IMHO but as someone who uses a disc brake equipped road bike (Salsa La Cruz) I would not go back to rim brakes. Another nice feature is that you can run different size wheels (650b/700c even 26 inch) different rim size and tire sizes, with no brake adjustments. I currently have 3 wheel sets so I can switch them up for the conditions I will be riding in.

Commodus

Go to Jubilee down by Metrotown and buy that powder-blue Sutra they have kicking around in the back. It's an 08 I think, you'll probably get a good deal. You'll have discs and enough luggage capacity to carry everything you could ever need.

And your legs will get really strong too, cuz it weighs a ton.

On the way back, stop by MEC and buy a PB 2 watt Blaze/Superflasher combo set. No one will have an excuse for not seeing you then.

tinfoilhat

You know I'm really tempted. Been raining here a bit and the disks on the Kona just absolutely do the job. There was no difference in feel or braking power in the wet at all. As far as the light goes, I'm going to be blinking and shining big time. Here's a thought. I used to ride a motorcycle and finally gave it up when I got tired of other people trying to kill me. Now it is 15 years later, I'm slower, and on 2 wheels with 100 less horsepower.

Shawnrs

Hello

I know this thread is old...

I ride a Steel Wool Tweed. BB7's and is a now single speed. 23km each way. commute.
To me disks only make sense and are the only way to go. They work well in our weather. Plus with the drivers that live in our area we need to stop in all conditions.

As for the disk rubbering. Never had the problem. Well I didn't after I realized that you can adjust in inner and outer pads. Not just the one side. Before that the disk would rub the caliper. Almost on off and boy could she scream! I had a few "bike guys" at work give things a go. Even wasted money at a LBS. No luck. Then I got "smart" (rare) and read the manual. Loosened all the bolts. Turned the outside pad in a few. Did the same for the inside pad. Clamped the brake lever closed. (Auto center) Tightened the bolts. Backed the pads off until there was some silence. Done. Stop on a dime. Take the wheel on and off. Silent. No drag.

Play safe all.