Rob_E

I was thinking touring bike as well. Of course that's just because that's what I ride. Touring bikes are often described as having a relaxed geometry for a "more upright" position than a road bike. That doesn't really mean "upright" in the may that you experience it on a cruiser/Dutch bike. It still usually has drop bars. I did not set it up with drop bars, but rather swept back, Albatross bars. The result is an even more upright position, but still not the bolt upright position of my more cruiser-style bike.

Somehow being more bent over seems essential to me when trying to improve my speed. I don't know if this is really true or just my impression. There are too many variables for me to do accurate comparisons between my upright bike and my touring bike, especially given the fact that my upright bike has a much narrower gear range and no speedometer. But I certainly feel more like I can pour more effort into my touring bike and get a corresponding speed increase. Which isn't to say I'm fast. I think I still tend to average less than 15 mph. I also feel more comfortable with the touring bike when riding longer distances. I think that may have to do with position as well. When upright, all my weight is on the seat, and there's not a lot of shifting around that I can do to change that. After a little time in the saddle, I find myself wanting to stretch out a little and maybe put some more weight on the handlebars, which I can do on my Trucker, but it doesn't seem to work on my upright bike. Also when I want more energy going into the pedals on my upright, it seems like the only way to do that is stand up, which isn't a sustainable position over any distance. By being less upright on my touring bike, I feel like I can move my weight around better to shift between different positions/riding styles. So maybe it's worth trying some less upright positioning to see if you feel like you have more control over your speed that way.

But if the priority was maximizing both speed and comfort, I wonder if a recumbent might be worth looking at. I have no experience with them, but they sure look comfy, and yet it seems like they're built to be very efficient and quick.

Sixty Fiver

If you can cruise along at 15mph you are going to be doing better than most... you have to be fairly fit and dedicated to ride at speeds higher than this for any duration.

cod.peace

Rans Zenetik:

DylanG

I used to live in Holland and I loved my upright Dutch bike for the flat city riding I did there. Back in the US I was sure I wanted the same kind of bike. I was dissuaded by multiple people from getting a Dutch style bike for the hilly terrain and longer distances I would be using it for here. They were right.

After test riding a zillion bikes I bought the Kona Dr. Good. I guess you'd call it a road bike with handlebars that have a mild rise and sweep back. This was the compromise I liked. A flat bar was still too hunched over for my comfort. The handlebars on my my bike are at seat height but having them sweep back a little gives me a comfortable position. That's how Kona configured mine from the factory but I presume you could accomplish the same thing by changing the handlebar on any number of flat bar bikes.

squirtdad

My experience: given every thing else being equal or even similar, an upright position is slower than a lower position, both because of aerodynamics and body mechanics.

Position makes far more of a difference ins speed than bicycle weight does.

I have an upright bike that is at least 30 lbs up to 35 and a road bike that is 22 lbs.

In the last year I spent a lot more time on the upright bike as I was rebuilding the road bike.

When I took the road bike out last spring I was really surprised at how much faster it was for the same or less effort than the upright bike

Commuting I average in the 12.2 to 13.2 range depending on my mood, wind, etc.

On the road bike the average is more like 14 to 15.5

I am a clyde and am not in super great shape right now.

to the OP, I know your concern over bike weight from other posts. ....to take some thing from the road section: it is all about the engine, not the bike, so.....keep commuting and add a longer ride or two on the weekends and in a month or two you will be surprised at how much faster you are

for reference (and because I think they are nice) my bikes...the road is not extreme saddle and stem are pretty much level

upright



road

Booger1

Put some Mary bars on a 10 speed type bike,PRESTO,fast upright bike.



Same bike,same motor,sit upright.......


I changed the bars on a couple of my friends older type 10-12 speeds(1980's) bikes and both of them are happy.They cruise around town and ride to the beach and back(35 miles).I even put a big cushy seat on one of them,that's what he wanted,he doesn't complain about it.They look like old Schwinn Collegiates,fenders and all.

cooker

I'll say ditto to the people who recommend setting the handlebars at seat height - this seems to be the compromise position many utility riders like commuters and tourers seem to end up with, although of course individuals may vary somewhat in their preference. If you have drop bars with the tops set at seat height, you still have the option of going down into the drops if there's a headwind or you are in a real hurry.

Paradoxically, it sometimes helps to get more comfortable with a forward leaning position if you push your seat back a bit - the rails on the bottom of the seat allow for some adjustment. That might make it seem like you will have to reach farther forward or lean more on your wrists, but it also shifts your centre of gravity back and puts more of your body weight over your legs, sort of like a speedswimmer poised to dive, with his butt sticking back.

Loose Chain

I think the reason you ask if it exists is that in fact it does not. Upright and fast cannot coexist as the upright part seriously impedes the fast part and as well, for me anyways, is very uncomfortable and inefficient. Uncomfortable because it increases pressure on my parts and inefficient because I cannot bring my glutes into play as well, if at all.

Terry66

The Salsa Casserol is a great suggestion. Salsa makes some killer bikes. I have a Vaya which is a very relaxed drop bar bike. It is seriously heavy though...especially when running fatter tires. I have 700X42 on mine right now. It is REALLY comfortable but a pig to pedal.

Take a good look at the Specialized Sectuer or Roubaix depending on how much you want to spend. The Sectuer is the aluminum version and the Roubaix is the carbon. Pretty much the same geometry. They have a taller headtube which makes for a great compromise between and all out agressive road bike and a flat bar bike. Flip the stem up and you'll have a light, fast, comfortable bike.

I am 45yo and wanted a more relaxed version of my older bikes. I went with the carbon Roubaix. It is super comfortable for 50+ milers. I even did a 10 mile TT on it recently and averaged 22+mph. It is like the best of all worlds.

MK313

That's kind of an overly broad statement. Certainly a flat bar road bike will not be as fast as an equivalent drop bar road bike, or a triathlon bike for that matter, but speed is relative & there are plenty of bikes that fit the description. Speed is relative & the fact is that the OP can find bikes that are lighter & faster than her (IIRC) current ride. You won't see one in the Tour de France, but for the OP's uses, yes, they do exist.

The uncomfortable part of your statement sounds like a bike fit issue. I ride only flat bar road bikes & they are perfectly comfortable for me. You may want to get yours professionally fitted to make sure that it's set up correctly to eliminate any excess pressure you are feeling.

dahut

SO what were getting here is a road bike (light, fast, aero position) and an upright bike (usually heavier, slower, non-aero) are apples and oranges.
Some sort of compromise is in order. I'd suggest a road bike with low rise mountain bars, but with an assortment of mountain bike "ends" attached:

1. Straight or angled ends, moved to the middle....
2. Gripper knobs, on the bar ends....
3. Drop ends, just inboard of the gripper knobs...

The angled ends (1) offer a laid out, relaxed aero position. The gripper knob ends(2), provide a more upright position. The drop ends(3) give the more traditional tucked aero position.

tjspiel

You could do that but if you want bars with multiple riding positions you might as well get a drop bar bike with the bars set higher, - either through a more relaxed frame geometry, a stem with more rise, or both.

The advantage is that the road shifters and brakes will work from multiple positions.

The downside is that road shifters drive the cost of the bike up, but if that's not an issue you might as well get the real deal.

Kojak

My suggestion is to find a good bike shop, one that will allow you to take some extended test rides. Ride a variety of bikes and styles and see what works best for you. All the suggestions in the world won't help you if you are not comfortable on the bike, and a ride around the shop parking lot isn't going to tell you much about how you will feel on the bike after 10-15-20 miles.

robert schlatte

If you don't want to buy a new bike, get on Craigslist and find a decent lightweight road bike with a threaded stem. Then put flat or slightly raised handlebars which the threaded stem will allow you to raise or lower so you can achieve whatever position you want. You can set up just about any kind of bike you want. No need to spend a bunch of money.

fietsbob

I have a much faster bike with a tailwind, than a headwind.

Kojak

Hmm, you've forgotten rule # 15, paragraph b in the road cycling handbook. There are no tailwinds. There are only headwinds, and days that you feel really strong.

Sixty Fiver

We just built a biccyle for our friend... took a 70's Raleigh mixte that had drop bars and replaced those with a Soma Oxford (north road) and a taller stem and now she has a very upright bicycle of moderate weight that flies along really well.

Sixty Fiver

My wife rides a Breezer Uptown as her primary bicycle which is very upright but it is also rather heavy and I built up a mixte for her with a Peugeot UE18 Supersport and it too got a taller stem and north road bars as well as some high performance wheels and an upgraded drive train... the bike curbs out in the mid 20's and really flies.

alan s 

Cannondale Bad Boy/Quick and Scott Sub would be worth a look. I think Trek also has a line of upright bikes that are fairly lightweight.

dahut

You have a point. I find that I prefer road bars most of the time, myself. But the knobbed up bars Ive described are actually quite useful, and not without a certain "comfort" factor.
Most upright/hybrid/comfort bikes come with some sort of straight bar. Adding a variety of ends and knobs adds to their versatility.