Cheapest Way to get Power-metered up...
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Cheapest Way to get Power-metered up...
I am starting from a place of having no gadgets on my bike at all...no computer, nothing...
If I would like to have the relevant info (Speed, cadence, power, etc)...what's the cheapest way to get there?
Computer first, then add power-meter?
Or is there a Power Meter that comes with a computer read-out that will also tell me my speed, that would be more economical?
How much should I expect to spend, if I want to spend the least possible?
If I would like to have the relevant info (Speed, cadence, power, etc)...what's the cheapest way to get there?
Computer first, then add power-meter?
Or is there a Power Meter that comes with a computer read-out that will also tell me my speed, that would be more economical?
How much should I expect to spend, if I want to spend the least possible?
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I am starting from a place of having no gadgets on my bike at all...no computer, nothing...
If I would like to have the relevant info (Speed, cadence, power, etc)...what's the cheapest way to get there?
Computer first, then add power-meter?
Or is there a Power Meter that comes with a computer read-out that will also tell me my speed, that would be more economical?
How much should I expect to spend, if I want to spend the least possible?
If I would like to have the relevant info (Speed, cadence, power, etc)...what's the cheapest way to get there?
Computer first, then add power-meter?
Or is there a Power Meter that comes with a computer read-out that will also tell me my speed, that would be more economical?
How much should I expect to spend, if I want to spend the least possible?
You can get it all but power and GPS for well under $100 with a non-GPS bike computer.
And if you have a smartphone, you've already got the GPS there, and you can mount the phone on the handlebars or use the Wahoo RFLKT ($130 or less) to display key info.
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Your best bet is probably a used PowerTap wheel. You can also get a Stages crank arm pretty cheaply but you need to think hard about whether you're willing to spend $400+ to have your power estimated instead of measured directly. (Stages measures and doubles the power from your left leg, but your left/right balance is going to change a lot while you ride depending on a million factors, leaving one-sided measurement off by anywhere from 0 to 60 %.)
Some PT wheels will come with a computer, but they don't need that specific unit. Most likely if you're buying a cheap power meter you'll need an ANT+ computer; if the PM you buy doesn't come with one, get a cheap older Garmin.
Some PT wheels will come with a computer, but they don't need that specific unit. Most likely if you're buying a cheap power meter you'll need an ANT+ computer; if the PM you buy doesn't come with one, get a cheap older Garmin.
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More to the OP's point, you can save yourself a little coin if you pick up a power meter that is Bluetooth Smart, which somewhat negates the need for a dedicated bike computer since it'll work with your phone. Stages has BT, as does Powertap. In fact, I think the Garmin Vectors may be the only PM in the last couple of years to not have BT.
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Originally Posted by Me
(Stages measures and doubles the power from your left leg, but your left/right balance is going to change a lot while you ride depending on a million factors, leaving one-sided measurement off by anywhere from 0 to 60 %.)
- 9/21: 60/40
- 9/19: 53/47
- 9/16: 54/46
- 9/15: 55/45
- 9/14: 56/44
- 9/13: 55/45
Of course many riders won't notice ... that's why they pay for a device to tell them!
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If you are not in a rush, there are several newer entrants to the power meter game (4iiii, power2max, etc.) and although their first iterations are buggy, it's likely that in the next 1-2 years you may be able to get a good power meter for well under $400.
Maybe just get a good computer that will support BT and ANT+ PM now and get the actual power meter next year?
Maybe just get a good computer that will support BT and ANT+ PM now and get the actual power meter next year?
#8
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DCRainmaker has a long and detailed description and review of just about every power meter out there and then correlates them to each other. This will satisfy almost everyone's inner geek when it comes to power meters.
I believe that 4iiii is the cheapest out there at $399 for a one sided power meter. I thought it was interesting that Ray found that the one sided ones closely correlate to the two sided ones or wheel based ones are a few percent off at most.
J.
I believe that 4iiii is the cheapest out there at $399 for a one sided power meter. I thought it was interesting that Ray found that the one sided ones closely correlate to the two sided ones or wheel based ones are a few percent off at most.
J.
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From the last several rides I've done:
Of course many riders won't notice ... that's why they pay for a device to tell them!
- 9/21: 60/40
- 9/19: 53/47
- 9/16: 54/46
- 9/15: 55/45
- 9/14: 56/44
- 9/13: 55/45
Of course many riders won't notice ... that's why they pay for a device to tell them!
Looking at our results, the Stages system gave us figures that were within 10 watts of those from our PowerTap most of the time, and within about the same from the results from the Vector system, sometimes a little higher during high-intensity bursts. The averages over the course of a ride were always within 5 watts. These differences easily fall within the operating tolerances given by the manufacturers for each of the systems.
The biggest discrepancy the Garmin Vector pedal system has given me in left/right balance over the past couple of months has been 48%/52% but – and this is a crucial point – Garmin say their system is accurate to within +/-2% (they don't say in what circumstances) so there's some wiggle room in those figures. Even if you did have a significant discrepancy in leg strength, as long as it's consistent within a ride and from one ride to the next, the results you get from a Stages Power meter would still be consistent, and that's the most important thing.
Stages Power meter review | road.cc
Stages Power meter review | road.cc
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I'm glad we agree: if a rider's L/R (im)balance is consistent then this isn't a big deal for training purposes. For most people, it's not consistent within a ride (as I said above). It tends to be larger in Z1 and Z2 and shrinks above, for example, that's something a lot of people have noticed. It's consistent within the ballpark for multiple rides.
If you're ok with the trade-off (less cost, somewhat less data accuracy) then more power to you. But let's not pretend it doesn't exist.
If you're ok with the trade-off (less cost, somewhat less data accuracy) then more power to you. But let's not pretend it doesn't exist.
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Due to my budget i am also in favour of Power2max. , and at ~600$ it measures the data on each crank arm.Is also very light system.
I am debating weather to wait for next spring to invest in one(maybe will get an even better deal then 600bucks) or get one now and use it in winter training.It would be of little use since the winter rides are just endurance.
I am debating weather to wait for next spring to invest in one(maybe will get an even better deal then 600bucks) or get one now and use it in winter training.It would be of little use since the winter rides are just endurance.
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that's a big leg imbalance, if it's not based on some physical problem aren't there things you can do about it?
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I sometimes consider a power-meter just so I can see how much of a difference there is on my output and I sometimes consider tuning with different length crank-arms (oddly enough, the right side is about an inch shorter). However, I am not the OP, I just have an interest in the topic.
Last edited by Robert C; 09-27-15 at 10:12 AM.
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