Philips SafeRide Light
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,706
Bikes: Trek 730 (quad), 720 & 830, Bike Friday NWT, Brompton M36R & M6R, Dahon HAT060 & HT060, ...
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 840 Post(s)
Liked 336 Times
in
251 Posts
Look, the light is all one piece instead of two separate units, plus instead of using cheap plastic or thin aluminium walled construction Phillips made this light very durable with thicker aluminum shell then other lights, but it's aluminum not steel.
The mount has no wobbles either, it does need to be tightened once in the correct position with a tool to keep it from shifting downward as you hit ruts and bumps in the road because it front heavy, Phillips should have put the clip for the mount in a position giving it 50/50 weight distribution but I guess they couldn't think of everything.
The mount has no wobbles either, it does need to be tightened once in the correct position with a tool to keep it from shifting downward as you hit ruts and bumps in the road because it front heavy, Phillips should have put the clip for the mount in a position giving it 50/50 weight distribution but I guess they couldn't think of everything.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 6,432
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 539 Post(s)
Liked 44 Times
in
38 Posts
Wow, what a long thread. Here's what I know:
The Good:
1. The Phillips light is relatively cheap at around $100 on amazon
2. It has a shaped beam, like a car headlight, for night riding. For a number of reasons, if you're riding on the road or a bike trail, this gives it better effective light than most lights with more lumens (not great for mountain biking though)
The Bad:
1. The reason why it's relatively cheap is because it's being discontinued.
2. As people have mentioned, you need to buy better batteries separately, and even then the run time only seems to be somewhere between 1-2 hours.
3. And apparently you cannot just hook up another battery via the usb port - there's some sort of circuitry in it that turns it off after a certain amount of time.
4. Busch and Mueller may or may not be making another better battery light. It's hard to figure it out.
If you actually had a dynamo front wheel, that makes things a little easier. The Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo seems to be the best cost effective dynamo light you can get right now. (As in it's noteably better than anything cheaper, and there's nothing more expensive that's substantially better). I'm buying one if Peter White ever puts up beamshots and it still looks good. I have a dynamo light on my commuter - it's *way* easier than a battery light.
1. Your light is always with you on your bike.
2. You never have to spend time charging it
3. You never accidentally leave it behind while it's charging
4. You never accidentally end up with a dead battery in the middle of your ride, because the battery just got old and doesn't keep a charge (it's happened to me - twice)
5. It's permanently affixed to your bike, like anything else on your bike, so you don't have to take it off. (It's both a plus and a minus - if you leave your bike locked in really sketchy places, the kind of places where they might steal your saddle or your derailler off your bike, you might have a problem, but I don't really leave my own bike anywhere like that, so it's more convenient than a light that's easy to take on and off that I always have to take on and off).
6. If you're biking in the winter, you don't have to deal with the battery not lasting as long because it's cold out with a dynamo.
7. Almost all dynamo lights have a shaped beam like a car headlight, that only puts light on the road in front of you. It doesn't waste light going up, but far more importantly, it doesn't make your eyes adjust so you can't see outside the headlight beam (any more than using a dimly light cell phone would).
You might want to seriously consider just buying a dynamo light and front wheel.
The Good:
1. The Phillips light is relatively cheap at around $100 on amazon
2. It has a shaped beam, like a car headlight, for night riding. For a number of reasons, if you're riding on the road or a bike trail, this gives it better effective light than most lights with more lumens (not great for mountain biking though)
The Bad:
1. The reason why it's relatively cheap is because it's being discontinued.
2. As people have mentioned, you need to buy better batteries separately, and even then the run time only seems to be somewhere between 1-2 hours.
3. And apparently you cannot just hook up another battery via the usb port - there's some sort of circuitry in it that turns it off after a certain amount of time.
4. Busch and Mueller may or may not be making another better battery light. It's hard to figure it out.
If you actually had a dynamo front wheel, that makes things a little easier. The Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo seems to be the best cost effective dynamo light you can get right now. (As in it's noteably better than anything cheaper, and there's nothing more expensive that's substantially better). I'm buying one if Peter White ever puts up beamshots and it still looks good. I have a dynamo light on my commuter - it's *way* easier than a battery light.
1. Your light is always with you on your bike.
2. You never have to spend time charging it
3. You never accidentally leave it behind while it's charging
4. You never accidentally end up with a dead battery in the middle of your ride, because the battery just got old and doesn't keep a charge (it's happened to me - twice)
5. It's permanently affixed to your bike, like anything else on your bike, so you don't have to take it off. (It's both a plus and a minus - if you leave your bike locked in really sketchy places, the kind of places where they might steal your saddle or your derailler off your bike, you might have a problem, but I don't really leave my own bike anywhere like that, so it's more convenient than a light that's easy to take on and off that I always have to take on and off).
6. If you're biking in the winter, you don't have to deal with the battery not lasting as long because it's cold out with a dynamo.
7. Almost all dynamo lights have a shaped beam like a car headlight, that only puts light on the road in front of you. It doesn't waste light going up, but far more importantly, it doesn't make your eyes adjust so you can't see outside the headlight beam (any more than using a dimly light cell phone would).
You might want to seriously consider just buying a dynamo light and front wheel.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 8,687
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1126 Post(s)
Liked 253 Times
in
204 Posts
Phillips is not discontinuing the Saferide, it's still on their web site. See: https://www.mea.philips.com/c/front%2...bcat_asc_group
Because this question came up I sent an e-mail to Phillips regarding the battery question and the discontinuing issue.
Because this question came up I sent an e-mail to Phillips regarding the battery question and the discontinuing issue.
#29
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,503
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 511 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7348 Post(s)
Liked 2,470 Times
in
1,435 Posts
I have the dynamo version. I like it very much. So far, no failures. It's very reliable, as is my Sanyo dynamo hub. I use the hub to power a tail light, too.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: the Low countries
Posts: 283
Bikes: 1980 Koga Miyata Gents Touring; 1980 Koga Miyata Gents Racer; 1980 Koga Miyata Roadspeed; and aiming for the rest of that year's brochure
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I use the dynamo version, with a Shimano DH3N80 hub dynamo. And for the second winter in a row it is my favourite light. [I can compare it to two different B&M IQ Cyo lamps, I have on other bikes]. Together with the hub it creates a slight vibration though, in my front fork and handlebar, when I ride 34 km/h.
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Davis CA
Posts: 3,959
Bikes: Surly Cross-Check, '85 Giant road bike (unrecogizable fixed-gear conversion
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
And why would someone not be confident of their on board charger? I've had mine now for 2 riding seasons and it charges the batteries just fine, it's a smart charger too instead of a timed charger that can overcharge batteries if their not run to dead prior to charging. My original light came with a battery that would not charge right, so I contacted Philips, they sent me a new light/charger/batteries and that one is fine. The huge advantage with using AA bats is that you can buy more at any store, but I would make sure the new bats have at least the same amp hour rating as the ones from the factory.
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 8,687
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1126 Post(s)
Liked 253 Times
in
204 Posts
So I did a couple test runs with good batteries after using the onboard charger. Last night I rode home and it took 29 minutes for the first little blue indicator light to go out. When I shut the light off, it was 55 minutes and I still had two little blue lights going. I didn't charge it, and today I'll see how much longer it goes when I ride to work.
If I were you I would try running the batteries to exhaustion, and fully recharge for 24 hours, then repeat that 3 times and see what happens, it won't hurt to try it. I did mention in an earlier post that my first light came with a bad battery and all I could get was about an hour of run time, Phillips replaced the entire light with new bats and since then it runs as their specs say.
If your light is still under warranty and you can get near 2 hours then contact Phillips for a warranty adjustment. Then when you get the new light do the recharge stuff I outlined.
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Davis CA
Posts: 3,959
Bikes: Surly Cross-Check, '85 Giant road bike (unrecogizable fixed-gear conversion
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
Why would they send me a new light when I just need some good batteries?
#34
Old. Slow. Happy.
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 1,797
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
The SafeRide 80 is one of my favorites for on-road riding.
See my review here:
https://www.gravelbike.com/?p=1449
See my review here:
https://www.gravelbike.com/?p=1449
#35
Señior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,749
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 446 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
I really would like to get the Philips light, but the thing switching in to low power setting after 1 hour means that for me, runtime is 1 hour. There are times on my ride when I absolutely need all the light I can get - I'm coming down pretty steep hills where I'll be doing 30 MPH at the bottom unless I ride brakes, and they're gravel roads where massive arrays of potholes can just spring up overnight.
I was really just about to pull the trigger just now, but I think I'm going to go get something else.
I was really just about to pull the trigger just now, but I think I'm going to go get something else.
__________________
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 8,687
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1126 Post(s)
Liked 253 Times
in
204 Posts
Don't tell them you suspect the bats, act like you don't know anything and let them decide to make whatever decision they want.
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: midwest
Posts: 2,528
Bikes: 2018 Roubaix Expert Di2, 2016 Diverge Expert X1
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 482 Post(s)
Liked 151 Times
in
105 Posts
I really would like to get the Philips light, but the thing switching in to low power setting after 1 hour means that for me, runtime is 1 hour. There are times on my ride when I absolutely need all the light I can get - I'm coming down pretty steep hills where I'll be doing 30 MPH at the bottom unless I ride brakes, and they're gravel roads where massive arrays of potholes can just spring up overnight.
I was really just about to pull the trigger just now, but I think I'm going to go get something else.
I was really just about to pull the trigger just now, but I think I'm going to go get something else.
#38
Señior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,749
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 446 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
I was looking at the MJ-880 and similar lights yesterday, but it really seems to me that at that intensity, I really don't want an unshaped beam. But the lights with shaped beams all have issues (to me) like the light deciding that I would rather have 30 minutes more run time than a bright light. *I* will damned well decide when I will turn the light down - if the light wants to start flashing the power level at me telling me I'm running low, and *I* will decide whether to drop to lower power, that's fine.
__________________
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
#39
Senior Member
The other major thing with the SafeRide is that they were using NiMH batteries. I would assume they're re-working it to use Li batteries, which should roughly double the run time.
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 8,687
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1126 Post(s)
Liked 253 Times
in
204 Posts
And the run time is not 1.3 hours it's 2 hours on high and 8 on low, trust me, unless you suffer from severe night blindness your not going to use high often at all. If you do run on high after 2 hours it auto switches to low and will run for 2 more hours, so you won't be left in the dark.
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: midwest
Posts: 2,528
Bikes: 2018 Roubaix Expert Di2, 2016 Diverge Expert X1
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 482 Post(s)
Liked 151 Times
in
105 Posts
The 1.3 hours is for 1000 (true) lumen.
#42
Señior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,749
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 446 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
Incorrect, Amazon says that but their wrong, Saferide uses Li Ion batteries, it says so on their website, it says so on my box, and it says so on the batteries.
And the run time is not 1.3 hours it's 2 hours on high and 8 on low, trust me, unless you suffer from severe night blindness your not going to use high often at all. If you do run on high after 2 hours it auto switches to low and will run for 2 more hours, so you won't be left in the dark.
And the run time is not 1.3 hours it's 2 hours on high and 8 on low, trust me, unless you suffer from severe night blindness your not going to use high often at all. If you do run on high after 2 hours it auto switches to low and will run for 2 more hours, so you won't be left in the dark.
I do see on their website that it says "Battery: 4 AA Li-ion batteries" - but there's no such thing as an AA Li-Ion battery. There is a 14550 cell that's the same size as AA but LiIon chemistry provides a 3.7 volt per cell voltage. You could certainly not remove a 14550 and put in a regular AA cell which are 1.2 to 1.5 volts per cell. LiIon in there would put the pack voltage at about 14.8 volts which would require pretty sophisticated charge circuitry to charge from a 5v USB plug.
The MTBR review says "Uses standard ‘AA’ batteries sot it’s easy to replace and carry spares"
Honestly I'm more inclined to think that the Philips page is wrong. It just doesn't make any sense that they would be LiIon cells.
I'm seeing reference to a "generation 2" light - are there two versions? How do I know what version I'm getting?
On my route I have 4 miles of gravel road including descents where I frequently hit 30 MPH. It's tree covered and pitch black, animals frequently bound out in front of me so I actually like to have a little light spilling up into the surrounding bushes, and there are whole minefields of potholes covering half a lane for dozens of feet
that can just spring up overnight. I like to have a WHOLE LOT of light and when I want it, it's because I need it. I don't care if kicking to high will result in me only having 5 minutes of runtime left, because on my way home when I really need it, I'll be home in 5 minutes.
__________________
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
#43
Señior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,749
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 446 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
I already asked this but it's buried in a wall o text so:
Are there two versions of the Philips Saferide 80? What are the differences? How do I know which I'm getting?
Are there two versions of the Philips Saferide 80? What are the differences? How do I know which I'm getting?
__________________
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
#44
Banned
AFAIK, case color. and whether it's for Dynamo Power , or Batteries.
& (site link above) , 40,60 or 80, lux. you say you got a Philips Saferide 80? , I Suppose its 80 LUX
& (site link above) , 40,60 or 80, lux. you say you got a Philips Saferide 80? , I Suppose its 80 LUX
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-06-13 at 02:23 PM.
#45
Zoom zoom zoom zoom bonk
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,624
Bikes: Giant Defy, Trek 1.7c, BMC GF02, Fuji Tahoe, Scott Sub 35, Kona Rove, Trek Verve+2
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 551 Post(s)
Liked 722 Times
in
366 Posts
Maybe they mean they are ok with lithium AAs (1.7v). Not all AA gadgets are happy with them.
#46
Señior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,749
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 446 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
However, Li-ion generally means rechargeable. Lithium primaries are generally just Li, not Li-Ion.
__________________
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 8,687
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1126 Post(s)
Liked 253 Times
in
204 Posts
#49
Old. Slow. Happy.
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 1,797
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
That's weird, I don't recall what the first set of batteries that were in the one I sent back, but I popped my open earlier due to this discussion and their Li-Ions rated the same 2450 mah! Maybe the low cost one in Amazon does use NiMh's and the more expensive doesn't? Either that or Phillips is having different sources build to different specs, or perhaps Phillips decided to use a cheaper costing battery because mine is 2 years old? but they never changed their website read this: https://www.mea.philips.com/c/bicycle...specifications. But regardless the NiMh is rated for the same 2 hour/8 hour run time.
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 8,687
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1126 Post(s)
Liked 253 Times
in
204 Posts