Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Fifty Plus (50+)
Reload this Page >

Adjusting the road bike/what are the goals?

Search
Notices
Fifty Plus (50+) Share the victories, challenges, successes and special concerns of bicyclists 50 and older. Especially useful for those entering or reentering bicycling.

Adjusting the road bike/what are the goals?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-24-11, 02:08 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Adjusting the road bike/what are the goals?

Originally Posted by jimmuller
What he said. Very true. Fortunately it doesn't take much expertise to re-adjust either bar height or seat height and the willingness (courage?) to try it.
In my original post there were 2 great responnces for the need for the correct setup. What are some of the goals some of you experenced road bikers look for, such as handle bar in relationship to the seat. I know that you can pay for this survice and I am willing to if need be, but I have also learned that most shops put you in the ballpark it is up to you to be able to fine tune the bike just the above quoted! Thanks in advance.
Gpaw44 is offline  
Old 12-24-11, 02:21 PM
  #2  
Galveston County Texas
 
10 Wheels's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: In The Wind
Posts: 33,222

Bikes: 02 GTO, 2011 Magnum

Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1350 Post(s)
Liked 1,245 Times in 623 Posts
This might help?

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...=#post13624945
__________________
Fred "The Real Fred"

10 Wheels is offline  
Old 12-24-11, 02:43 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
ericm979's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Posts: 6,169
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
The reach to the bars should be comfortable. If it's too short you will be cramped on the bike. Too long and you will roll your shoulders forward to reach the bars, which will make them hurt after a while. Or you will ride with your elbows locked, which makes you unstable because you are twitching the bars every time you hit a bump.

Whatever you do, do not move the saddle forward (or back) to adjust the reach to the bars. That's the wrong way to go about it. If you move the seat forward then you'll be putting more weight on your hands, and you won't be able to pedal as efficiently. You set the seat position relative to the cranks, then adjust the handlebar height and reach.
ericm979 is offline  
Old 12-24-11, 03:09 PM
  #4  
Time for a change.
 
stapfam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: 6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
Posts: 19,913

Bikes: Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Correct size frame is the start point. Even then there might be some adjustment to the bar stem length to fine tune. If you have too "Long" a top tube then a shorter stem can be fitted and likewise with a too short TT where a longer stem can be used. BUT-I don't like going more than 10mm either side of the original fitted as That would have been worked out by the manufacturer to give the best handling. Fit a far longer stem and more weight will be over the front wheel and conversely a far shorter stem will lessen weight. Both of which can affect the handling But "Can" possibly improve the handling for some.

Bar height is subjective. Just face it-We are getting older and need a more upright position on the bike to relieve back ache. One of the fallacy's about bike set up. Some of us have found that a low bar height to saddle works- some have found that a higher bar works. It is up to you to find out what you need and what is comfortable. What is important though is the saddle position to the pedals and height. Once you have that position it is fixed. Then there is the angle of the bars. I normally set them up so that I am comfortable on the Hoods of the brakes and that is just trial and error to see if you can improve or worsen the position.

In fact there is a lot of trial and error on bike set up. Once you have it nearly right then move the saddle 3mm at a time or adjust the bar height by moving spacers one at a time.

The other way out is to spend money on a bike fit- but this can be expensive and until you know what you want can be a waste of money and time.
__________________
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.


Spike Milligan
stapfam is offline  
Old 12-24-11, 04:50 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
NOS88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Montgomery County, Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,489
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 2 Posts
I rather like Peter White's approach to getting started with a fit. If you read through his site, you'll gain enough information to make reasonable decisions and have the language to discuss fit with others. https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
__________________
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
NOS88 is offline  
Old 12-24-11, 05:15 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Gravity Aided's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Normal, Illinois
Posts: 2,714

Bikes: Trek 600 ,1980Raleigh Competition G.S., 1986 Schwinn Passage, Facet Biotour 2000, Falcon San Remo 531,Schwinn Sierra, Sun Seeker tricycle recumbent,1985 Bianchi Squadra

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked 12 Times in 9 Posts
Height of seat, length of top tube, stem height and length, angle, size and drop of handlebars, where your feet are on the pedals, crankarm length and size of frame all help to make a bike feel right. You have to adjust a little bit at a time to avoid discomfort. Peter White and the forum post mentioned above will both help with this. It's a long road to proper fit, and I find myself doing it every year as I age . For me, I start with the pedals and cranks, then set seat height, then worry about the bars and stem . Others will have different methods .
Gravity Aided is offline  
Old 12-24-11, 05:28 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Road Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878

Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8

Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times in 506 Posts
For me there are many goals. Mechanically, all the moving parts move freely, smoothly, and through their entire necessary range. Should feel like new. I should feel confident that all the bearings are properly clean and lubed.

Biomechanically, the bike fits me like a glove. When I get on, the saddle is precisely where my sit-bones want it to be, and all pressure from the saddle is in the right places (only!). The position will allow total freedom of leg movement for hours on end. When I reach forward to the bars, all positions should be easy to find with low hand pressure and no back or neck cramping.

Just a start ...
Road Fan is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
johngwheeler
Road Cycling
12
08-25-17 10:14 AM
jambon
Fitting Your Bike
2
08-10-16 10:19 AM
mozad655
Bicycle Mechanics
9
06-29-15 07:00 PM
Road Fan
Fifty Plus (50+)
8
02-17-13 11:26 AM
sunstealth
Bicycle Mechanics
11
07-19-10 09:58 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.