Minor upgrades to Nano
 

I stopped by http://www.counterbalancebicycles.com after work yesterday and picked up the following:

- blackburn competition cage
- sunlite toe straps
- all city nylon double toe clip medium black (just pull the front reflector off the stock pedals and they fit fine)
- planet bike eco rack - aluminum

Rode 8 miles into work today, I was paranoid about getting a flat so I left the tires super under-inflated. Combined with a strong headwind out of the south, I got a nice workout and a slow ride in. Very nice riding bike though, frame really absorbed the bumpy pavement on the burke gilman trail and going over a couple curbs. Handling is quick but stable, oddly somewhat reminiscent of my old short wheelbase recumbent. I still need to look at the crank and get the rim strips, adjust the rear derailleur (if I can figure out how). I am fine with the stock brake levers and brake pads. Really an extremely good value bike overall.

Does anyone have a source for the previous Scorchers without the hideous checker pattern on the side? I've been trying to make up my mind about tires since the bike arrived and would go with the Scorchers if I could get them in just plain black.

Nice! Is the pannier squished like that due to heel clearance issues?

No, I think I just didn't cinch the pannier down tight enough with the top closure. My heel did hit the pannier once when I first got on the bike, but it might have been I was in the process of sliding my foot into the pedal/clip/strap. I did not notice any further contact after that.

Sweet, glad to hear it. A rack is on my upgrade list but clearance was a question.

I should qualify my statement about clearance with the panniers (mine are older Ortleib ones), turns out you do need to push them as far back as possible. On the rack I purchased this makes it so the rear pannier hook that holds the pannier to the diagonal rack brace doesn't quite attach. Not a problem for my commute, but maybe for longer trips or light loads.

Also I got a flat on the way home after pumping my tires up to proper pressure (maybe over). Was only a mile from http://www.recycledcycles.com/ and was able to purchase some velox tape and patch the tire. Glad one of the mechanics removed the tire for me -- its not easy!

I really don't know why this bike doesn't ship with cloth rim tape. The failure rate of the cheap rubber strip is incredibly high, and I'm sure Bikesdirect knows it. The Performance-branded Velox tape only cost my $6, at-cost is probably less than $3. Would it really have killed sales of the bike if they added $3 to the price tag, as opposed to inconveniencing the customer?

Just finished complete disassembly down to the last bolt and reassembly. Adjusting the headset and hubs was key. I added Primo Comets (1.5"), old Shimano 600 aero levers and Nitto rando bars. I was initially ho-hum about the bike but the ride is about a million times better now. Just need a Velo Orange threadless stem adapter and a proper length stem and I'll be all set! (Well, I need to figure out fenders too...)

Funny, I was a mile away from Recycled when my tube blew too! I guess there are at least two Nanos in Seattle now.

In lieu of a rack I think I'm just going to use a big saddlebag and an old Rivendell Hobo front bag; should be plenty of carrying capacity.

I don't find the checkered pattern greatly distracting. Besides, its good for road visibility, especially at night. I find the Scorcher the perfect compromise tire in that its fast and it provides enough comfort to make the small wheel size a tolerable ride, unlike with a thinner tire.

Panaracer is an excellent brand.

The mini velo frame is actually decent but to get that price point, some corners had to be cut, especially with the brakes and bars. Upgrading those can get you a very nice bike!

And with a new seatpost in place, I can finally say I'm done upgrading, and look forward to spending more time riding the bike than I do tinkering with it:

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...528_161535.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...528_161527.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...528_161544.jpg

Recap of upgrades:

Drivetrain
Brev.M 165mm cranks
Origin8 54T flat chainring
Surly 15T single-speed cog
Fibonacci spacer kit
Gusset Squire chain tensioner
KMC 3/32" half-link
Shadow Conspiracy Ravager pedals
Tramp Straps pedal straps
Jagwire Comp brake pads
Panaracer Minits Tough 20x1.25 tires

Cockpit
Charge Spoon saddle
Kalloy Laprade 29.2 seatpost
Tektro R100A brake levers
Origin8 Classic Road stem


http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...528_162229.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...528_161648.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...528_161558.jpg

Looks great.

So, I've been trying to remove the bottom bracket from my nano. I was able to get the non-drive side cup out fine, but the drive-side was near impossible without a huge breaker bar. I was eventually able to get it off, and found that there was no grease (the reason why it was so difficult to get it off). I plan on replacing the bottom bracket and crankset tonight, and just wanted to give people a heads up. :thumb:

Thanks - can someone confirm the appropriate tool for removing the bottom bracket? I've worked a lot on cars, but never had to open the bottom bracket on a bike.

Would this be it? : http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Shim...6725641&sr=8-1

Thats the tool I used. Remember that the thread is backwards on the drive-side :thumb: I found an excellent deal on a sora crankset, so I installed an external bearing bottom bracket. Once I got the stock bottom bracket out and added some grease, the installation went smoothly.

Still have a couple of upgrades to go like a new stem and seat post
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j6...6/DSCN0898.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j6...6/DSCN0900.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j6...6/DSCN0901.jpg

nice...

Thank you, I rode it yesterday and it is a kick to ride. When I start getting regular work again I would like to get a Big Shot and put a SA 3 speed on it. I think you would have fun with one of these.

I was thinking of going the internal hub route, too, I wonder if this wheel kit would work?

http://www.utahtrikes.com/PRODINFO-S...Wheel_Kit.html

Hub spacing and axle diameter look correct. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

(...after you peel off the stickers on the braking surface...)

They appear to be automatic peeling stickers that will be removed at the first brake application. LOL.

Interesting. I'd like to know what the chainline measurement is and how much the wheel weighs.

What else cheap on the bike should be replaced...? And still keep it under $300? As it is, adding that cloth tape would push it over $300... Corners get cut on price-point bikes, rim tape is one of them.