Need to choose the right wheel and hub
05-16-16, 04:15 AM
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Need to choose the right wheel and hub
Hello. I have a 21 speed hybrid bike, I have no idea what my wheels are other than they are 700c which is 28 inch or so.
My tires are 40-622.
I'm a guy who prefers stealth and my derailer is just too noisy(something somewhere is bent or it's gremlins or both), initially I thought to buy a single speed, but then I had a fracture and my knee hurts when I push too hard, so I decided for the middle option. And what I want is a rear wheel with an internal speed hub, thing is I have no idea whether one can properly fit onto my hybrid as the gap where the wheel and the hub sits is very wide.
For example will this be what I'm looking for?:
- 28- inch double-wall
- ETRTO size: 622-19
- Material: alloy
- Eyelets
- 36 holes
- Light weight and buckling resistant
- Valve stem: 8.5 mm (6.5 mm)
- Recommended tyre size: 28 - 62 mm
- Weight: 620g
- Colour: black eloxadised
Nexus Inter-8 Hub with 8-speed gear hub
- SHIMANO Nexus INTER-8 SG-C6000-8R
- Alloy
- Labyrinth seal: keeps away dirt and wet
- Rotary actuator (shifting under moderate pedalling loads )
- Narrow intervals, bigger conversion range (total conversion range expanded to 307%)
- Smoother running as predecessor and better changing
- Free wheel hub
- 36 holes
- Axle with acorn nuts
- Sprockets with 21 teeth
- Colour: silver polished
- Old: 130mm
I will repeat my question. How to measure the width the wheel (without disassembling it) will measure tape suffice? Whether I will need anything else to fit onto my bike and do I have to change the rear gear shifter?
Thanks.
My tires are 40-622.
I'm a guy who prefers stealth and my derailer is just too noisy(something somewhere is bent or it's gremlins or both), initially I thought to buy a single speed, but then I had a fracture and my knee hurts when I push too hard, so I decided for the middle option. And what I want is a rear wheel with an internal speed hub, thing is I have no idea whether one can properly fit onto my hybrid as the gap where the wheel and the hub sits is very wide.
For example will this be what I'm looking for?:
- 28- inch double-wall
- ETRTO size: 622-19
- Material: alloy
- Eyelets
- 36 holes
- Light weight and buckling resistant
- Valve stem: 8.5 mm (6.5 mm)
- Recommended tyre size: 28 - 62 mm
- Weight: 620g
- Colour: black eloxadised
Nexus Inter-8 Hub with 8-speed gear hub
- SHIMANO Nexus INTER-8 SG-C6000-8R
- Alloy
- Labyrinth seal: keeps away dirt and wet
- Rotary actuator (shifting under moderate pedalling loads )
- Narrow intervals, bigger conversion range (total conversion range expanded to 307%)
- Smoother running as predecessor and better changing
- Free wheel hub
- 36 holes
- Axle with acorn nuts
- Sprockets with 21 teeth
- Colour: silver polished
- Old: 130mm
I will repeat my question. How to measure the width the wheel (without disassembling it) will measure tape suffice? Whether I will need anything else to fit onto my bike and do I have to change the rear gear shifter?
Thanks.
05-16-16, 04:57 AM
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Measure the distance between the inside faces of the frame "dropouts" where the axle nuts contact the frame. It is probably 130mm or 135 mm.
I don't know much about internal geared hubs "IGH", but assume it comes with its own shifter to match.
You probably need a crankset also, but perhaps could set the chain on the middle chainring and leave it there, and remove the front derailleur and shifter.
If your bike has vertical dropouts, the you need a chain idler to take up chain slack since you can't adjust the wheel in the frame.
Post pictures of your bike to help others give suggestions.
I don't know much about internal geared hubs "IGH", but assume it comes with its own shifter to match.
You probably need a crankset also, but perhaps could set the chain on the middle chainring and leave it there, and remove the front derailleur and shifter.
If your bike has vertical dropouts, the you need a chain idler to take up chain slack since you can't adjust the wheel in the frame.
Post pictures of your bike to help others give suggestions.
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Last edited by Homebrew01; 05-16-16 at 05:02 AM.
05-16-16, 09:48 AM
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I recently bought a NOS Shimano silent clutch rear freehub. I don't remember where I bought it from but when I googled Shimano silent freehub several came up right away.
The original market for them was police bikes so they could silently sneak up on bad guys. It really is quiet having no freehub ratchet sound at all. Heavy little sucker, though. I didn't weigh it on a scale but the first time I picked it up in my hand I noticed it was heavier than the rear hubs that I'm used to.
I could build you a wheel that would be totally silent and fit your bike with no other modifications but you might not be happy with the $150 - $200 price.
The original market for them was police bikes so they could silently sneak up on bad guys. It really is quiet having no freehub ratchet sound at all. Heavy little sucker, though. I didn't weigh it on a scale but the first time I picked it up in my hand I noticed it was heavier than the rear hubs that I'm used to.
I could build you a wheel that would be totally silent and fit your bike with no other modifications but you might not be happy with the $150 - $200 price.
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Last edited by Retro Grouch; 05-16-16 at 10:17 AM.
05-16-16, 10:20 AM
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But Cops like Mountain bikes , so You buy the 'Free-hub' with the silent driver ..
then get the wheel built around it. since the OP wanted roadie wheels ..
In order to satisfy all those requirements, try a Bike Shop and ask them to custom build a wheel to your exacting specifications ..
Want the shimano 8 speed internal gear hub?, dont expect it to be silent when you are coasting.
then get the wheel built around it. since the OP wanted roadie wheels ..
In order to satisfy all those requirements, try a Bike Shop and ask them to custom build a wheel to your exacting specifications ..
Want the shimano 8 speed internal gear hub?, dont expect it to be silent when you are coasting.
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-16-16 at 10:26 AM.
05-21-16, 10:24 AM
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05-21-16, 10:29 AM
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The original market for them was police bikes so they could silently sneak up on bad guys. It really is quiet having no freehub ratchet sound at all. Heavy little sucker, though. I didn't weigh it on a scale but the first time I picked it up in my hand I noticed it was heavier than the rear hubs that I'm used to.
05-21-16, 10:32 AM
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05-21-16, 10:40 AM
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those that work there are not getting much More than Minimum wage
Tried getting a second Job? people do that to feed & take care of their Children.
Tried getting a second Job? people do that to feed & take care of their Children.
05-21-16, 10:53 AM
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More info here:
Fortunately, most "vertical" dropouts are not exactly vertical: they usually have a bit of a slant. As a result, it is sometimes possible to use this type of frame. To make it work, you may have to play games with chainwheel sizes. One of my fixed-gear bicycles is based on a Cannondale touring frame. It happens that there is just enough adjustment to make it work with my preferred 42/15 combination. If the chainstays were a bit different in length, I could replace the 42 with a 41 or 43.
Adding or subtracting a link in the chain will move the axle 1/2". Changing either sprocket size by one tooth is the equivalent of moving the axle 1/8" (4 mm). Thus, if I wanted a 5.75 gain ratio (75" / 6 meter gear), I might first try a 42/15, this gives a gain ratio of 5.77 (75.6" / 6.05 m gear). If the chain was too loose, I could take up 1/8" (4 mm) of axle movement by replacing the 42 with a 43. This 43/15 combination would raise my gain ratio to 5.91 (77.4" / 6.19 m). Alternately, I could get the same axle position with a 42/16 --5.41 (70.9" / 5.67 m).
Note that using a half link in your chain would move the axle 1/4".Adding or subtracting a link in the chain will move the axle 1/2". Changing either sprocket size by one tooth is the equivalent of moving the axle 1/8" (4 mm). Thus, if I wanted a 5.75 gain ratio (75" / 6 meter gear), I might first try a 42/15, this gives a gain ratio of 5.77 (75.6" / 6.05 m gear). If the chain was too loose, I could take up 1/8" (4 mm) of axle movement by replacing the 42 with a 43. This 43/15 combination would raise my gain ratio to 5.91 (77.4" / 6.19 m). Alternately, I could get the same axle position with a 42/16 --5.41 (70.9" / 5.67 m).
Another option is a ghost sprocket, but I don't know how durable that solution is.
Finally, an eccentric bottom bracket offers another option to make adjustments to chain tension.
Last edited by Jaywalk3r; 05-21-16 at 11:03 AM.
05-22-16, 01:08 PM
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05-22-16, 01:20 PM
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Another option is a ghost sprocket, but I don't know how durable that solution is.
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