Still confused about Cycling Shoes
#26
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Either way, bicycle shoes tend to have much stiffer soles than you are probably used to. They make lousy walking shoes.
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#28
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If I don't get clipless pedals, will it still be better to get cycling shoes?
And if I get clipless pedals, how do I install them and take the other pedals off?
(some use L shaped Hex wrenches that in a socket in the end of the pedal)
Just really confused what to do.
** wrench shown in no. 17 - 19 is too thick for many pedals..
./.
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-26-16 at 09:55 AM.
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I will call your Wellgo pedal, and raise you with this: Shimano PD-M520 Clipless Pedal > Components > Pedals > Mountain Pedals | Jenson USA
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To @DreamRider85: I was having issues with numbness in my feet using my normal Adidas gumsole indoor soccer shoes. I bought a pair of Giro Rumble MTB shoes which have a rather stiff front sole, and they are rather economical at the same time. I run them with just cheap regular metal platform pedals with no cleats. I ride just fine on my road bike, and they are easy enough to walk around in. I got mine for a tour of Europe where I also did quite a bit of walking as my only shoes, they were as comfortable on the bike as off.
As to pedals, I've found I can get by just fine with a 15mm (and occasionally 17mm) wrench.
#31
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I'm confused. One says that you should wear mountain bike shoes. Another says it will look too ridiculous. Another says don't go clipless. I am confused..... Should I just look at the guys picture? I took a picture of the diagram on my phone. I am confused what to do. Why are people saying different things?
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I'm confused. One says that you should wear mountain bike shoes. Another says it will look too ridiculous. Another says don't go clipless. I am confused..... Should I just look at the guys picture? I took a picture of the diagram on my phone. I am confused what to do. Why are people saying different things?
My requirements for a shoe were something with a firm sole that I could also walk in for longer distances, that is why I ended up with mountain bike shoes on a road bike. They work fine for my purposes, they may or may not work for you, but that is only a decision you can make at the end of the day. Just trying to share that it is possible to do platforms with MTB shoes on a road bike very easy, as some of your original posts seemed to indicate you were heading in that direction. Sorry for any confusion
#33
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What you are finding out is that it is a completely subjective subject. There is no right or wrong, unless you consider fashion to factor into right and wrong. I don't.
My requirements for a shoe were something with a firm sole that I could also walk in for longer distances, that is why I ended up with mountain bike shoes on a road bike. They work fine for my purposes, they may or may not work for you, but that is only a decision you can make at the end of the day. Just trying to share that it is possible to do platforms with MTB shoes on a road bike very easy, as some of your original posts seemed to indicate you were heading in that direction. Sorry for any confusion
My requirements for a shoe were something with a firm sole that I could also walk in for longer distances, that is why I ended up with mountain bike shoes on a road bike. They work fine for my purposes, they may or may not work for you, but that is only a decision you can make at the end of the day. Just trying to share that it is possible to do platforms with MTB shoes on a road bike very easy, as some of your original posts seemed to indicate you were heading in that direction. Sorry for any confusion
I just have regular pedals. Do I need clippless pedals or clipped pedals?
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Go to your local bike shop - let them explain the differences to you and show you the different style shoes and pedals and let them recommend a set of shoes and pedals that best meet your needs as you explained it to them. Then buy said shoes and pedals from them. Some questions the Internet can't answer for you.
#35
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Go to your local bike shop - let them explain the differences to you and show you the different style shoes and pedals and let them recommend a set of shoes and pedals that best meet your needs as you explained it to them. Then buy said shoes and pedals from them. Some questions the Internet can't answer for you.
They're too expensive. I would rather buy from online.
#37
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Well here is the deal.
I don't care about fashion. I want the right solution for just doing a 30 to 40 mile ride. I do sprints occasionally but that is not my main goal.
And so I just want something that will help with my stride a little better, especially the last 15 miles.
I bet if I go to LBS, they all just have different opinions too.
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Do you have an REI or Performance Bike store near you? Usually they have a wide selection of cycling shoes, with several models on sale. That way you can get some advice firsthand and hopefully save some money. Road shoes and mtn bike shoes function the same. The only difference is the sole. Road bike shoes are flat with no tread on the bottom, so if you used clipless pedals the cleats make it hard to walk in them. Mtn bike shoes have treads on the soles, which make them easier to walk in because cleats are recessed in the soles. City bike shoes are similar to mtn bike shoes except the soles are flatter with moderate to no tread, but they still have a recessed portion where the cleat attaches.
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As far as the MTB shoes looking ridiculous on a road bike; SOME do, especially the type for "hard core" riders that need to scale the steepest hills on foot-THAT type of shoe looks ridiculous on a road bike.
Right now, there are several types of pedal/cleat combos. Here are a few, their pluses and their minuses:
Plastic road cleats (Time, Look, SPD_R, and a few off brands): Easy to clip in and out, easy to adjust, wide cleat that doesn't put too much pressure on your foot at one point. However, the plastic cleats wear quicker, and make walking difficult, even with a cleat cover on them.
SPD metal cleats: Long lasting, fits into 'walkable' shoes. However, they are often hard to connect (especially if dirt is packed around cleat), often results in pressure-point against sole of foot.
Speedplay: The round pedal that has a mechanism in the cleat, which makes the cleat fragile but the pedal robust. Only a small percentage of riders use these.
Eggbeaters: Pretty much the same drawbacks of SPD cleats, with the only advantage being that these pedals are nearly impossible to ride without the cleat, acting as a bit of a theft-deterrent. Likewise small percentage of users, mostly in urban areas.
Right now, there are several types of pedal/cleat combos. Here are a few, their pluses and their minuses:
Plastic road cleats (Time, Look, SPD_R, and a few off brands): Easy to clip in and out, easy to adjust, wide cleat that doesn't put too much pressure on your foot at one point. However, the plastic cleats wear quicker, and make walking difficult, even with a cleat cover on them.
SPD metal cleats: Long lasting, fits into 'walkable' shoes. However, they are often hard to connect (especially if dirt is packed around cleat), often results in pressure-point against sole of foot.
Speedplay: The round pedal that has a mechanism in the cleat, which makes the cleat fragile but the pedal robust. Only a small percentage of riders use these.
Eggbeaters: Pretty much the same drawbacks of SPD cleats, with the only advantage being that these pedals are nearly impossible to ride without the cleat, acting as a bit of a theft-deterrent. Likewise small percentage of users, mostly in urban areas.
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Don't feed the trolls......
#41
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For 30-40 mile rides, I recommend something with a stiff sole. Options include:
Something from Five-Ten, Chrome, DZR (might be spelled wrong) - stiff, pretty thin sole, might have 2 bolt clip capability. If the modelyou choose has 2 holes for cleats, you can use these with flats or pedals that take 2-hole cleats (Shimano, Forte, Crank Brothers, Speedplay Frogs, & ?).
These shoes can arguably be used with toe clips and straps, too, if the clips are tall enough; this adds quill and old-style platform pedals (from, say, Lyotard, if you can find some, MKS, KKT, etc.) as potential options.
Buy 2-hole pedals and 2-hole shoes - often called 'mountain biking' shoes. Usually the soles are so thick and compliant that the shoes don't fit into toe clips. The soles can be compliant, because the makers assume you'll use them with clips, so the only contact between shoe and pedal will be stiff.
Buy 3-hole pedals and 3-hole shoes - usually called road shoes. These shoes are lighter and stiffer, but harder to walk in with cleats.
In my experience, road shoes don't work at all with flat pedals, because they're too slippery, and they work only tolerably with toe clips and straps.
Buy Speedplay road pedals and 4-hole shoes, if they're still available. Otherwise, buy Speedplay road shoes and use their 4-3 hole adapters.
If you want the flexibility of switching from flats to clipless, I think your only choice is a Five-Ten-type shoe.
Some road shoes, usually low end, can accommodate both 3-hole and 2-hole clips. That type of shoe would allow you to switch between 'mountain' and 'road' shoes.
I suggest getting custom-made Bonts set up for Speedplay road shoes.
Your choice.
Something from Five-Ten, Chrome, DZR (might be spelled wrong) - stiff, pretty thin sole, might have 2 bolt clip capability. If the modelyou choose has 2 holes for cleats, you can use these with flats or pedals that take 2-hole cleats (Shimano, Forte, Crank Brothers, Speedplay Frogs, & ?).
These shoes can arguably be used with toe clips and straps, too, if the clips are tall enough; this adds quill and old-style platform pedals (from, say, Lyotard, if you can find some, MKS, KKT, etc.) as potential options.
Buy 2-hole pedals and 2-hole shoes - often called 'mountain biking' shoes. Usually the soles are so thick and compliant that the shoes don't fit into toe clips. The soles can be compliant, because the makers assume you'll use them with clips, so the only contact between shoe and pedal will be stiff.
Buy 3-hole pedals and 3-hole shoes - usually called road shoes. These shoes are lighter and stiffer, but harder to walk in with cleats.
In my experience, road shoes don't work at all with flat pedals, because they're too slippery, and they work only tolerably with toe clips and straps.
Buy Speedplay road pedals and 4-hole shoes, if they're still available. Otherwise, buy Speedplay road shoes and use their 4-3 hole adapters.
If you want the flexibility of switching from flats to clipless, I think your only choice is a Five-Ten-type shoe.
Some road shoes, usually low end, can accommodate both 3-hole and 2-hole clips. That type of shoe would allow you to switch between 'mountain' and 'road' shoes.
I suggest getting custom-made Bonts set up for Speedplay road shoes.
Your choice.
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In case anyone missed it.
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I bought very nice shoes on closeout from my local shop at a good price
I prefer to pay a bit extra from a shop, and try on the various brands & sizes, and get the right ones, instead of ordering, returning, ordering again, returning again.
Cycling shoe fit is very important to most people.
Road shoes have a hard, slippery plastic sole that will only work well with clipless pedals, so they don't slide around.
MTB shoes with SPD option for cleats might be a better option.
I prefer to pay a bit extra from a shop, and try on the various brands & sizes, and get the right ones, instead of ordering, returning, ordering again, returning again.
Cycling shoe fit is very important to most people.
Road shoes have a hard, slippery plastic sole that will only work well with clipless pedals, so they don't slide around.
MTB shoes with SPD option for cleats might be a better option.
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#46
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There is no right answer. Some prefer SPD, some SPD-SL, and yet others like a myriad or other brands. Fashion is up to you. You are not going to get your answers here. And unless you know what shoes fit your feet well, buying shoes on the internet is a huge mistake. You have to try them on to see what you like.
With that, this thread is done.
With that, this thread is done.
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