lock suggestion?
#1
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lock suggestion?
How can I lock my road bike safely: like to lock frame ánd wheels - I use a U-lock but it's too heavy - would a steel cable do?
#3
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My approach is to have a permanently mounted ring lock that always gets used and a second lock, in my case an Abus U lock, that gets used when the situation calls for it.
All locks have weight. If someone is determined to have your bike, they'll cut through any lock you can buy.
All locks have weight. If someone is determined to have your bike, they'll cut through any lock you can buy.
Last edited by Dave Horne; 11-18-14 at 07:12 AM.
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Well I am going on holiday; and will take the bike along to ride in other areas than I used to.
To have an occasional drink or when riding and nature's calling, it may prove handy to bring in some lock.
I agree with you that when someone really wants the bike he will be able to steal it -
I was thinking about a longer steel cable thats still is a hassle to cut through.
To have an occasional drink or when riding and nature's calling, it may prove handy to bring in some lock.
I agree with you that when someone really wants the bike he will be able to steal it -
I was thinking about a longer steel cable thats still is a hassle to cut through.
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They have a couple of widths in a trio of lengths, but the standard length offers the ability to capture both wheels in situ, which I like. Whether you go 075 or 125 width depends on your security needs, but you do sacrifice some flexibility and ease of use with the wider one, which is StichtingArt 2 Star rated.
I have a couple that have really improved my cycling life; I don't fret over how to carry a lock anymore, always have one, like the looks, light weight and silence, and can lock up as I like to a decent variety of lock points, though large diameter posts don't work.
I highly recommend TiGr. It's not for all lockup scenarios, but if you have right mix and weight of needs, it's unbeatable.
#6
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If managing weight, portability, security and convenience is an issue for you, you should take a look at TiGr locks.
They have a couple of widths in a trio of lengths, but the standard length offers the ability to capture both wheels in situ, which I like. Whether you go 075 or 125 width depends on your security needs, but you do sacrifice some flexibility and ease of use with the wider one, which is StichtingArt 2 Star rated.
I have a couple that have really improved my cycling life; I don't fret over how to carry a lock anymore, always have one, like the looks, light weight and silence, and can lock up as I like to a decent variety of lock points, though large diameter posts don't work.
I highly recommend TiGr. It's not for all lockup scenarios, but if you have right mix and weight of needs, it's unbeatable.
They have a couple of widths in a trio of lengths, but the standard length offers the ability to capture both wheels in situ, which I like. Whether you go 075 or 125 width depends on your security needs, but you do sacrifice some flexibility and ease of use with the wider one, which is StichtingArt 2 Star rated.
I have a couple that have really improved my cycling life; I don't fret over how to carry a lock anymore, always have one, like the looks, light weight and silence, and can lock up as I like to a decent variety of lock points, though large diameter posts don't work.
I highly recommend TiGr. It's not for all lockup scenarios, but if you have right mix and weight of needs, it's unbeatable.
#7
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Also Heavy, but easier to carry is the Abus Bordo , a folding link lock ..
I also like Abus and Axa chain and lock combinations. they have a nylon sleeve over them to not mark your paint.
TiGr being Titanium is light , but softer than steel , and bolt cutters have no problem slicing through it so quite 'beatable', defeat-able
I wouldn't let the bike out of your sight, but grab and run theft, If attached to something solid, may be resisted .
I also like Abus and Axa chain and lock combinations. they have a nylon sleeve over them to not mark your paint.
TiGr being Titanium is light , but softer than steel , and bolt cutters have no problem slicing through it so quite 'beatable', defeat-able
I wouldn't let the bike out of your sight, but grab and run theft, If attached to something solid, may be resisted .
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-18-14 at 11:11 AM.
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Also Heavy, but easier to carry is the Abus Bordo , a folding link lock ..
I also like Abus and Axa chain and lock combinations. they have a nylon sleeve over them to not mark your paint.
TiGr being Titanium is light , but softer than steel , and bolt cutters have no problem slicing through it so quite 'beatable', defeat-able
I wouldn't let the bike out of your sight, but grab and run theft, If attached to something solid, may be resisted .
I also like Abus and Axa chain and lock combinations. they have a nylon sleeve over them to not mark your paint.
TiGr being Titanium is light , but softer than steel , and bolt cutters have no problem slicing through it so quite 'beatable', defeat-able
I wouldn't let the bike out of your sight, but grab and run theft, If attached to something solid, may be resisted .
#9
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I just bought a chain lock; that fits in my spare bottle. Should be OK for the matter.
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Anything that can be made by one man can be cut by another man who has the right tool. Bicycle lock selection is a matter of matching cost, weight and cumbersomeness with the perceived degree of risk. Even the cheesiest light cable lock is about 90% effective because it requires the thief to bring some kind of tool with him. As you progress from 90% effective to 99% effective you engage in a high tech game of one-up-man-ship with the thief which you will ALWAYS eventually lose. There is no 100% effective locking system.
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Anything that can be made by one man can be cut by another man who has the right tool. Bicycle lock selection is a matter of matching cost, weight and cumbersomeness with the perceived degree of risk. Even the cheesiest light cable lock is about 90% effective because it requires the thief to bring some kind of tool with him. As you progress from 90% effective to 99% effective you engage in a high tech game of one-up-man-ship with the thief which you will ALWAYS eventually lose. There is no 100% effective locking system.
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Anything that can be made by one man can be cut by another man who has the right tool. Bicycle lock selection is a matter of matching cost, weight and cumbersomeness with the perceived degree of risk. Even the cheesiest light cable lock is about 90% effective because it requires the thief to bring some kind of tool with him. As you progress from 90% effective to 99% effective you engage in a high tech game of one-up-man-ship with the thief which you will ALWAYS eventually lose. There is no 100% effective locking system.
I recently decided to start riding my bike to the YMCA for workouts and started researching locks and came to the identical conclusion. I also called my homeowner's insurance agent and asked him about what kind of coverage I had in case my bike were stolen. I don't know whether I have an exceptionally good policy (Farmers) or what, but according to him I am 100% covered for full replacement if my bike is stolen--anywhere, anytime under any circumstances. That was very reassuring, so I'm going with a minimal cable/padlock system since the risk at the Y is very low to start with.
Update: I spoke with the manager at the Y and they are going to let me bring my bike inside the building too--as long as it's not muddy/wet. All good.
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@Porschefan 928? I roll an '88 and a Murf Stage III supersharked '90!
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@Porschefan 928? I roll an '88 and a Murf Stage III supersharked '90!
Yep--that's an '88 S4 (chassis) with an '87 "oil squirter" engine from Devek after original owner blew up his. Long story--detailed on the 928 forum at Rennlist. Your '90 with the Murf Stage III must be a true beast! My family is from SE Michigan....small world.
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Hi Chaadster,
Yep--that's an '88 S4 (chassis) with an '87 "oil squirter" engine from Devek after original owner blew up his. Long story--detailed on the 928 forum at Rennlist. Your '90 with the Murf Stage III must be a true beast! My family is from SE Michigan....small world.
STP
Yep--that's an '88 S4 (chassis) with an '87 "oil squirter" engine from Devek after original owner blew up his. Long story--detailed on the 928 forum at Rennlist. Your '90 with the Murf Stage III must be a true beast! My family is from SE Michigan....small world.
STP