2x10 to 1x10 road bike conversions
11-19-14, 12:58 PM
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2x10 to 1x10 road bike conversions
I have a Surly Pacer that I converted to a flat bar setup. It came with the Shimano 5700 105 groupset. I used Shimano sl-r780 rapid fire flat bar shifters for the conversion. I'm contemplating converting from a 2x10 setup to 1x10. I'm told to accomplish this I would need to replace the current derailleur with a mountain bike derailleur, a mountain bike shifter, a new chainring, and possibly a new crank. Does anyone have any experience with making this conversion? If so, what parts were required? Have you experienced problems with dropping the chain because of this conversion?
11-19-14, 02:13 PM
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IME, the simplest way is to just not use the FD. then, if that works, out, remove it, the cable and the shifter. if that works out, and the gearing is found to be unsatisfactory, address that. if addressing the gearing involves the need of a smaller cog than you currently have, or a larger cog than you currently have, or a larger chainring than you currently have or a smaller chainring than you currently have, you may have to start looking at RDs, chain length, etc.
sounds like you may have been talking to someone that wanted to sell you something...
sounds like you may have been talking to someone that wanted to sell you something...
11-19-14, 02:35 PM
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Does anyone have any experience with making this conversion?
we can do anything you wish in that regard .. Bring the project by.
IDK your favorite Shop. nor where you are looking
NB single chainline is the middle between 2 chainrings ..
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-19-14 at 02:42 PM.
11-19-14, 03:03 PM
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Since you don't mention changing cassettes, why has someone told you that you need to change to a mountain RD and shifter? The only time that should be necessary is if you also buy a cassette with larger cogs.
Unless you need a cassette with more teeth than your road RD can handle (which you might need to get the gearing range you want), then you can use the same RD and shifter you currently use. The crank will only need to be changed if it won't accommodate the size of chainring you want to use. You could go with a single chain ring specific crank, but it isn't necessary unless the looks of a single chainring on a double crank bothers you. At which point, you may also need a different BB.
Assuming you want to keep the small ring, then remove the large ring, front derailleur and shifter and ride (possibly take a link or a few out of the chain)... 1x10 for the cost of a shorter set of chainring bolts. If you need a wider range cassette, then is where the new RD and shifter might come into play.
Honestly, I wouldn't modify to 1x10 if your 2x10 is working fine, simply because it doesn't seem worth the effort to save a few ounces to me... but I also understand the drive to keep trying new things.
Various chain keepers are available to keep from dropping a chain, but unless you jump curbs, a road oriented bike might not need one.
Unless you need a cassette with more teeth than your road RD can handle (which you might need to get the gearing range you want), then you can use the same RD and shifter you currently use. The crank will only need to be changed if it won't accommodate the size of chainring you want to use. You could go with a single chain ring specific crank, but it isn't necessary unless the looks of a single chainring on a double crank bothers you. At which point, you may also need a different BB.
Assuming you want to keep the small ring, then remove the large ring, front derailleur and shifter and ride (possibly take a link or a few out of the chain)... 1x10 for the cost of a shorter set of chainring bolts. If you need a wider range cassette, then is where the new RD and shifter might come into play.
Honestly, I wouldn't modify to 1x10 if your 2x10 is working fine, simply because it doesn't seem worth the effort to save a few ounces to me... but I also understand the drive to keep trying new things.
Various chain keepers are available to keep from dropping a chain, but unless you jump curbs, a road oriented bike might not need one.
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11-19-14, 03:34 PM
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Since you don't mention changing cassettes, why has someone told you that you need to change to a mountain RD and shifter? The only time that should be necessary is if you also buy a cassette with larger cogs.
Unless you need a cassette with more teeth than your road RD can handle (which you might need to get the gearing range you want), then you can use the same RD and shifter you currently use. The crank will only need to be changed if it won't accommodate the size of chainring you want to use. You could go with a single chain ring specific crank, but it isn't necessary unless the looks of a single chainring on a double crank bothers you. At which point, you may also need a different BB.
Assuming you want to keep the small ring, then remove the large ring, front derailleur and shifter and ride (possibly take a link or a few out of the chain)... 1x10 for the cost of a shorter set of chainring bolts. If you need a wider range cassette, then is where the new RD and shifter might come into play.
Honestly, I wouldn't modify to 1x10 if your 2x10 is working fine, simply because it doesn't seem worth the effort to save a few ounces to me... but I also understand the drive to keep trying new things.
Various chain keepers are available to keep from dropping a chain, but unless you jump curbs, a road oriented bike might not need one.
Unless you need a cassette with more teeth than your road RD can handle (which you might need to get the gearing range you want), then you can use the same RD and shifter you currently use. The crank will only need to be changed if it won't accommodate the size of chainring you want to use. You could go with a single chain ring specific crank, but it isn't necessary unless the looks of a single chainring on a double crank bothers you. At which point, you may also need a different BB.
Assuming you want to keep the small ring, then remove the large ring, front derailleur and shifter and ride (possibly take a link or a few out of the chain)... 1x10 for the cost of a shorter set of chainring bolts. If you need a wider range cassette, then is where the new RD and shifter might come into play.
Honestly, I wouldn't modify to 1x10 if your 2x10 is working fine, simply because it doesn't seem worth the effort to save a few ounces to me... but I also understand the drive to keep trying new things.
Various chain keepers are available to keep from dropping a chain, but unless you jump curbs, a road oriented bike might not need one.
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