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Old 12-04-13, 12:28 AM   #1
aLcHieZ
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Question Sirrus Conversion?

Hello everyone.

Iíve my hybrid Specialized Sirrus Sport 2014 for few weeks now. After pass my total 100 miles (in 12 rides), I always have wrist pain from every rides. I try adjusting my saddle and bought gel gloves but problem persist.

So Iíd like to convert from flat bar to drop bar for multi posture which I hope this could fix my wrist pain problem while I still keep my bike. And noÖmy wife would not allow me to buy a new bike until further notice LOL. So my best bet is now with conversion.

Before we proceed, Iíd like to let you know that I have 0 knowledge in both mechanic and bike component. Ok here are parts of my Sirrus.



http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...us-sport#specs

HEADSET: 1-1/8Ē FSA integrated cartridge lower, external sealed upper bearings
STEM: Alloy, 4-bolt, 20-degree rise, 25.4mm clamp
HANDLEBARS: Specialized flat bar, alloy, 6-degree backsweep, 25.4mm
BRAKES: Die-cast, alloy V-brake, 60mm 1pc. pad, linear pull
BRAKE LEVERS: Alloy V-brake, two-finger, linear pull
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Acera
REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Acera, 9-speed
SHIFT LEVERS: Shimano Acera, EZ Fire
CASSETTE: Shimano, 9-speed, 11-32
CHAIN: KMC X9
CRANKSETS: R Suntour XCR, 9-speed, square spindle
CHAINRINGS: 48/36/26, w/ chainguard
STEM LENGHT: 90mm
TOP TUBE: 580mm


After all research, I find that most of the problem from drop bar conversion are from Shifters and Brakes. Here are my questions.

DROP BAR: Should I buy one with 25.4mm clamp to fit my stock stem or should I go with 31.8mm and change my stem altogether with it. Current stem is 90mm. Top tube is 580mm. Do you think I need a shorter stem after conversion? I like a compact drop bar with not too long reach.

SHIFTERS: I found Shimano Dura Ace Bar End Shifter Set, 9 Speed SL-BS77 and not sure if itís compatible with my stock Shimano Acera 9x3 or not? Here a link for further details

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Dura...-/360806371977

BRAKES: I think donít have much choice though. AFAIK only Tektro RL520 V-brake is usable for my stock V-Brakes. Iíd love to get Travel Agent too but itís super rare item in my country. Chance of getting one with reasonable price is very low.

Another options are either getting a Retroshift or go with brifters and change to mini V brakes. But itís costly than above combination.


Lastly is there any things I should consider / concern? Thank you very much in advance for all your helpful advice!


Cheers,

aLcHieZ
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Old 12-04-13, 01:22 AM   #2
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There are a couple of lower cost options that you might want to consider before committing to the conversion.

1. Install some Cane Creek Ergo Control II bar ends. Pro is that they will allow you to rotate your wrists to mimic riding on the hoods of drop bars. Cons are that your controls aren't at your fingertips and you can't use a bar end mirror (if that was something you are considering). May want to cut your bars down a bit- shift your controls inward a little at a time until you find a sweet spot for all hand positions before making any cuts to the bar.

2. A butterfly/trekking handlebar will give you a variety of hand positions and allows you to keep your current brake levers and shifters. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_saca...ndlebar&_frs=1
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Old 12-04-13, 01:36 AM   #3
aLcHieZ
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Thanks for your reply no1mad. I've considered those 2 options before. Like you said...Crane Creek Ergo or Origin 8 somehow decrease ride safety by losing a brake / shifting control in others posture than tops and also couldn't attached rear mirrors. My city (Bangkok, Thailand) is...well..almost a nightmare for bikers though. I really need safety by at least having full control on hoods or tops handed position.
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Old 12-04-13, 03:50 AM   #4
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Don't do it. (the conversion)
Change this bike's handlebar until you are satisfied and get a dedicated road bike with drop bar afterwards.
The formula often quoted on these forums is: N = N + 1

Your options (without a conversion to drop bar) are:

-better position (saddle height, saddle incline, saddle position, stem lenght, bar height, etc ...)
-different type of bar (butterfly, more angled, etc ...)
-better grips or gloves with gel
-barends (with possibly grips on them)
-aerobar (with poissible grips on them)
-etc ...
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Old 12-04-13, 04:54 AM   #5
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I had the same problem so I installed an adjustable angle stem which raised the handlebars (AdelaaR's first option) and distributed my weight more evenly. Keep adjusting the angle of the stem until you find the right angle which helps the pain (this could take several rides).
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Old 12-04-13, 10:57 AM   #6
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Thank you guys. I know that conversion is not the best option since it cause (and cost) a lot trouble I shouldn't have. I'll try my best to fit my bike but still need your advice that Shimano Dura Ace bar end shifter is compatible with my stock derailleurs or not.




Ps. I love N = N+1 formula
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Old 12-04-13, 11:23 AM   #7
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If the stem fits you currently with the bars you have, you're going to need a shorter one as drop bars will push you further out. How much shorter will depend on how much reach the bar has. Problem is, you're not going to find a stem shorter than 60 mm, so you're going to want bars without much reach at all (hopefully not pushing the hoods more than 3 cm out).

The bar end shifter will only work for the front derailleur (probably) when you put it in friction mode (assuming the shifters you've found have that for the left shifter) because most flat bar shifted FD's use the mountain pull ratio which is different than that used by road shifters. Friction shifting (especially on the front) isn't a big deal, but some people really miss that nice click.

Right now there seems to be more variety of new bars in 31.8, so that's the size you're more likely to find bars that fit your requirement. Since you're going to probably need a new, shorter stem anyway, it's not a big deal to replace the stem, but I'd suggest waiting on choosing a stem until you find bars that work since you're going to have to anyway.

The way I see it (using random prices pulled off the top of my head for your cheapest option), you're looking at at least $50 for new bars and stem (probably a lot more, but I've found stuff on clearance in that range or less that met my requirements after much looking), ~$30 for new brake levers, $110 for the shifters you want, $30 for new brake and shift cables, $15 for bar tape, and you're looking at minimum $235 plus shipping to get all that out to you to try this (and it may not help).

Last edited by himespau; 12-04-13 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 12-04-13, 11:43 AM   #8
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Thanks for your advice hemespau! So if the compatibility of MTB derailleur vs Road shifters is a problem, you think I should go for a "Retroshift" options? I'm aware that the biggest draw of it is impossible drop position shifting but since most of the time I'll be on tops and hoods position, I think it'll not effect my ride that much.


Anyhow I wouldn't mind friction FD but index RD is a must.
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Old 12-04-13, 12:39 PM   #9
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Rear derailleurs should have the same pull (except 10 speed mountain bike derailleurs) and allow indexed shifting with either sort of shifter. I'm not sure if there is a retroshift lever that will accommodate v-brakes, but I haven't looked into that. Another option (also not cheap) is Kelly Take Offs. As with the retroshifts, they would require to to find a down tube shifter set of your desired number of indexes, but work with any brake lever of your choice. I've used this setup and found it worked well enough for shifting fro the tops, ramps and hoods, but, like you say not the drops. I think it was a little easier than bar end shifting would be as I didn't have to move my hands unless I was in the drops, but there is a cost penalty of doing that. For a similar price though, you could probably just get some cheap cantilevers, a road compatible front derailleur and some 9 speed microshift levers that generally get high reviews and have integrated levers. Haven't priced those out lately, but it seems those were once in the $100 range if memory serves.
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Old 12-04-13, 05:40 PM   #10
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Just get bar ends and vary your hand position regularly. Are you putting a lot of weight on your wrists? Have you slammed the stem or do you have a big saddle to bar drop? Try playing with the saddle height and handlebar height before you try out the more expensive options.
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Old 12-04-13, 05:54 PM   #11
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First,have you ever been fitted? Checking the seatpost height,saddle angle,and stem length could fix your problem.

Second,if your roads aren't perfectly smooth,those narrow-ish tires and that straight blade alloy fork aren't helping. Wider,lower pressure tires could help,and would be a quick and cheap upgrade. Swapping the stock fork for carbon or steel could also help.

Finally,I'd also suggest a trekking/butterfly bar over a drop conversion. Much easier,much cheaper,and you'd wind up with more usable hand positions.
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Old 12-05-13, 12:33 AM   #12
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The bar end shifters will work just fine but every time you shift you also loose the ability to use your brake sine you have to remove your hand from the brake position. I would recommend a standard road style shifter / brake set up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-ST-3...item565e77e20f
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Old 12-05-13, 04:29 AM   #13
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Thank you guys. Seems like Sora brifters is another great option. Cost almost the same as Dura Ace Bar end shifters+Tektro Brakes. Only I need to change my stock V-Brake (am i correct?). Another 30 bucks is ok with me though.

But anyone could reconfirm that i only need Sora brifter+new brakes (possibly Sora BR-3500)+cable and housing

The rest of stock drivetrain is compatible.


Thanks again for every replies. Really appreciate!
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Old 12-05-13, 05:29 AM   #14
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probably need a front derailleur too because of the whole mountain/road compatibility thing. Should post on the mechanics forum to make sure, but I'm pretty sure that acera uses the mountain pull ratio.
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Old 12-05-13, 08:06 AM   #15
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After more research I guess himespau is right. I need road FD for Sora. And perhaps new chain. Not a good option now
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Old 12-05-13, 08:37 AM   #16
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fortunately, road FDs are not that expensive. Maybe $20-30? But yeah, the conversion does add up.
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Old 12-05-13, 08:53 AM   #17
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I just bolted into the end of the bars some ergo extensions that stick straight up (or slanted). Mountain bikes used to have them. They are comfortable and after 2000 miles I still have them. I own the same bike.
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Old 12-05-13, 11:32 AM   #18
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Quote:
always have wrist pain from every rides.


simple changes,, new stem , different , higher rise.. add a way to have more places to put your hands ,

Ergon GR5 will give you broad grips ,rather than round ones. plus integrated, bar ends .


trekking bars Figure 8 bend do the additional hand positions thing too.

& you can re-use all the controls on your bars, now.

... rather than up/down in drops , the near/ far grips ..

and bending your elbows a bit, lets you bend over, into a headwind, the same.

Last edited by fietsbob; 12-05-13 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 12-05-13, 01:20 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdelaaR View Post
Don't do it. (the conversion).....

....Your options (without a conversion to drop bar) are:

-better position (saddle height, saddle incline, saddle position, stem lenght, bar height, etc ...)
-different type of bar (butterfly, more angled, etc ...)
-better grips or gloves with gel
-barends (with possibly grips on them)
-aerobar (with poissible grips on them)
-etc ...
This ^^. I'm not sure how easy it would be for you to take it to a Specialized Shop. If you can, and they are anything like my Specialized LBS, they would be more than happy and qualified to help diagnose the problem as it relates to the bike. As the bike is new, they'd not charge for adjustments, and they can do things with spacers as well.
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Old 12-05-13, 03:03 PM   #20
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This may be as simple as how your wrists are located on the current grips. The top of your arm should be essentially parallel to the back of your hand, with very little bend in the wrist. If you are bending your wrist to rest on the grips, rotate your bar or grips so that everything is supported in line.

Ergon grips are far superior to the stock Specialized grips, regardless of the "body geometry" title on them. The short bar end Ergon's do not put your far from the brakes, and are so easy to adjust for perfect fit.

Raising handle bars (ie adjustable stem) is not necessarily a plus for wrist / hand pain. If you are riding with all your weight on your saddle, and little weight on your hands, then vibration can cause pain. Ideal weight distribution, IMO, is 50% on the pedals, 40% on the seat, 10% on your hands. Sometimes lowering your bars gets you to that distribution easier than raising the bars does.

It is unlikely that you can get a short enough stem to actually get drop bars comfortable, especially if you are averse to a long and low position on the bike. If you are at a 90mm stem now, you would need to go to a MTB stem to get short enough.
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Old 12-05-13, 11:10 PM   #21
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Thanks everyone! Fitting or bar ends seem to be most recommend solution!

Anyhow just to be sure for a conversion project cost analysis...below are my parts and prices research. Do I need anything else for both options?

Brifters


Bar End Shifters


I already fit my bike when I purchased it but I'll take it to my LBS again this weekend.


Cheers,
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Old 12-06-13, 12:19 AM   #22
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I have the same problem with my hands and flat bars - I've done two bike conversions to drops & bar end shifters - both bikes are triples and without changing the FD - you will only be able to use only two rings. The only thing you are missing from your costs is some type of bar tape. From the learning standpoint - if you look at the you-tube videos and take your time - you could do it your self but you will need a good cable housing cutter or dremel tool. It also gave me a reason to get a bike repair stand which made the job so much easier. Would I do it again - yes, but the cost was not an issue.
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Old 12-06-13, 12:55 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by dynaryder View Post
if your roads aren't perfectly smooth,those narrow-ish tires and that straight blade alloy fork aren't helping. Wider,lower pressure tires could help,and would be a quick and cheap upgrade. Swapping the stock fork for carbon or steel could also help.
Quoted for truth.
I didn't know your current bike has a straight alloy fork.
If it does, it could indeed be the cause of you problem.
Swap it for an angled cyclocross carbon fork and you'll be much more comfortable.
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Old 12-06-13, 05:22 AM   #24
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OP, in your first list, I don't believe the caliper brakes can be mounted anywhere and reach your tires. My Sirrus had v-brakes on can't I studs, and the fork and brake bridge were a long way from the brake track.
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Old 12-06-13, 05:38 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by RollCNY View Post
OP, in your first list, I don't believe the caliper brakes can be mounted anywhere and reach your tires. My Sirrus had v-brakes on can't I studs, and the fork and brake bridge were a long way from the brake track.
Yeah, cantilever brakes would work on his studs and still have the proper pull for the sora levers he wants, but the sora caliper levers wouldn't.
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