Need a new fork for Stumpie
08-17-13, 01:24 AM
#1
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Need a new fork for Stumpie
I have a late 90s USA built M2 Specialized Stump Jumper. I have ridden it a ton but it is mint. It is 18 inches center to top frame. I love the bike and see no reason to spend money on some China built chunk. But the front fork is dead. It is the Manitou brand that came on the bike. It is compressed and does not work anymore. What would be a relatively inexpensive option for a new fork with lock out for this bike?
Is there a rebuild kit. I have asked around and not found much.
My wife bought me this bike at a time it was a sacrifice, it has sentimental value as well as the fact that it is a fine bike and dang near mint. This is the bike here and I have, since purchasing my Surly CC, removed the fenders and installed proper MTB tires and it is now original in appearance. I did keep the rack on the back however because I use it, even on the trail.
Thanks,
LC
Is there a rebuild kit. I have asked around and not found much.
My wife bought me this bike at a time it was a sacrifice, it has sentimental value as well as the fact that it is a fine bike and dang near mint. This is the bike here and I have, since purchasing my Surly CC, removed the fenders and installed proper MTB tires and it is now original in appearance. I did keep the rack on the back however because I use it, even on the trail.
Thanks,
LC
Last edited by Loose Chain; 08-17-13 at 01:30 AM.
08-17-13, 02:19 AM
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+1 on going rigid, from how you have the bike set up, there seems little point in getting a suspension fork for it.
For the Manitou, if you could get parts to re-build, it would still leave you with an almost 20 year old design, times have moved on, the bigest issue you will have with any fork now, rigid or suspension, is getting a rim brake compatible one, they are around, but you will need to make sure whatever you get comes with the correct mounts, as most forks are now disc only.
For the Manitou, if you could get parts to re-build, it would still leave you with an almost 20 year old design, times have moved on, the bigest issue you will have with any fork now, rigid or suspension, is getting a rim brake compatible one, they are around, but you will need to make sure whatever you get comes with the correct mounts, as most forks are now disc only.
08-17-13, 03:00 AM
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Nice Bike. I've got the same era Rockhopper, but it's been through hell and back, and it shows. I agree with the guys above ^^ You should consider picking up a lightweight rigid fork. Looks like that bike's never Really been off road anyhow...
08-17-13, 04:02 AM
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It's a 97 model bike and you can get new elastomers for the fork.
https://www.suspensionforkparts.net/e...&productId=139
With a bit of searching you might be able to find a manual for your 1997 Manitou Pro C
https://www.suspensionforkparts.net/e...&productId=139
With a bit of searching you might be able to find a manual for your 1997 Manitou Pro C
08-17-13, 09:25 AM
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+1 on going rigid, from how you have the bike set up, there seems little point in getting a suspension fork for it.
For the Manitou, if you could get parts to re-build, it would still leave you with an almost 20 year old design, times have moved on, the bigest issue you will have with any fork now, rigid or suspension, is getting a rim brake compatible one, they are around, but you will need to make sure whatever you get comes with the correct mounts, as most forks are now disc only.
For the Manitou, if you could get parts to re-build, it would still leave you with an almost 20 year old design, times have moved on, the bigest issue you will have with any fork now, rigid or suspension, is getting a rim brake compatible one, they are around, but you will need to make sure whatever you get comes with the correct mounts, as most forks are now disc only.
I, as I said in the post, no longer have the fenders and street tires on it and have switched it back to full MTB status.
The bike is clean because I take care of things but it has been ridden for many miles, mostly in South Mountain Park when I lived in Phoenix and my house backed up to the park.
I am not against rigid forks, in any case, I want to stay with rim brakes and would possibly prefer a new fork with a lock out mechanism.
LC
08-17-13, 09:33 AM
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What you are asking for is going to be hard to source, discs have been standard on MTB's since the early 2000's, and there are very few options for good forks now with rim options, they are there, just your options will be limited. You haven't given any budget, but a quick look on Jenson USA only gives one fork which meets your requirement, which is a very basic Rock Shox XC28.
08-17-13, 10:15 AM
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Manitou's Match, Minute and R7 forks can still be bought with v-brake mounts.
https://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Mani...-Disc-Fork.axd
https://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Mani...-Disc-Fork.axd
https://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Mani...100mm-Fork.axd
https://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Mani...-Disc-Fork.axd
https://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Mani...-Disc-Fork.axd
https://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Mani...100mm-Fork.axd
Last edited by cobba; 08-17-13 at 09:20 PM.
08-17-13, 10:28 AM
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Decent fork with V-brake bosses will be tough to find new. That said, I think a modern 100mm fork that raises the front end a bit will be good for the geometry. Also, lockout is highly overrated. A good fork won't bob much, and a crappy fork's lockout often does a bad job of actually locking out. Plus, what's the point of a suspension fork if you lock it out?
08-17-13, 10:52 AM
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Thanks. So, the fork I have is an 80mm and you think I could step up to a 100mm? I am going to shorten the stem also. It has aways been too long. The geometry that was favored at the time seemed to be of the Long and Low thinking.
I rather keep the price below 300 for a fork but, hmmmm, certainly 350ish is about tops before it makes sense to do some more thinking. I will look into a rebuild one more time also. I have no idea where the manual is anymore or how to take it apart.
The lockout I have found useful on mtbs when on the street with them or getting to and from the trailhead or like climbing Pikes Peak.
I am in the market, as soon as my Jeep project is done, for an older steel frame, solid fork Stump Jumper frame. I have all of the goodies to put on it. My current Stumpie looks so new because I have two wheel sets for it. The other wheel set is showing a bit more wear. I will put new rims on it and outfit the steel Stump Jumper when I get lucky and find a nice frame.
LC
I rather keep the price below 300 for a fork but, hmmmm, certainly 350ish is about tops before it makes sense to do some more thinking. I will look into a rebuild one more time also. I have no idea where the manual is anymore or how to take it apart.
The lockout I have found useful on mtbs when on the street with them or getting to and from the trailhead or like climbing Pikes Peak.
I am in the market, as soon as my Jeep project is done, for an older steel frame, solid fork Stump Jumper frame. I have all of the goodies to put on it. My current Stumpie looks so new because I have two wheel sets for it. The other wheel set is showing a bit more wear. I will put new rims on it and outfit the steel Stump Jumper when I get lucky and find a nice frame.
LC
08-17-13, 11:14 AM
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Your frame will take the 100mm fine, the Manitou Minute that #Cobba linked to is a real nice fork, have been running one for the last 2 years.
Good call on the stem, BITD we were all running 120-130, now 90 is about the longest I would go for XC, shorter for anything else. You may need to look at your bars was well though, as the Stumpy should have 25.4mm bars, just about all stems now are 31.8, although 25.4 are still around if you look.
Good call on the stem, BITD we were all running 120-130, now 90 is about the longest I would go for XC, shorter for anything else. You may need to look at your bars was well though, as the Stumpy should have 25.4mm bars, just about all stems now are 31.8, although 25.4 are still around if you look.
08-17-13, 09:35 PM
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With the Manitou Minute Expert it is sold with the travel set at 80mm and 100mm but you can increase the travel in the 80mm fork and decrease the travel in the 100mm fork.
By removing a 20mm spacer from the 80mm fork it will change the travel to 100mm and by adding a 20mm spacer to the 100mm fork it will change the travel to 80mm.
By removing a 20mm spacer from the 80mm fork it will change the travel to 100mm and by adding a 20mm spacer to the 100mm fork it will change the travel to 80mm.
