caad10 comparables
#27
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Bikes: '11 Merlin Extralight, '98 Dean Castanza, '89 Schwinn Prologue
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The CAAD8 is a perfectly fine frame, but is considered low end (equivalent to a Trek 1.2, Giant TCR, etc). You can prob find a used one in mint condition for around $200. The CAAD10 is one of the best Alum frames though.
#28
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Go to a better shop or learn how to fix your bike yourself. There is a decent chance your derailleur hanger is bent, and if it is, no amount of fiddling with the set up will eliminate the issues you're having. A good shop mechanic would know to check that. A lazy one will tell you the baloney they told you instead of fixing it.
Internal cable routing can be a huge pain to set up and maintain. I prefer external cabling for ease of maintenance.
Internal cable routing can be a huge pain to set up and maintain. I prefer external cabling for ease of maintenance.
#29
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Bikes: Cannondale EVO, CAAD9, Giant cross bike.
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I bought a new caad8 2015 Claris but am starting to question the group set since despite tuning is rough and constantly grinds. I was looking at getting a caad8 105 which is 1500, 500 more then the Claris but I continued to think I mine as well get the caad10 to future proof myself. I also really like that it's cables are internal.
I've read a lot of forums and it seems the caad has had a lot of negative satirical bashing. Am I missing something?
Besides the input and criticism I'd love to hear from what I said above, what other bikes compared to the caad10 in its price range (2000$ canadian) andwhat are your insights?
I've read a lot of forums and it seems the caad has had a lot of negative satirical bashing. Am I missing something?
Besides the input and criticism I'd love to hear from what I said above, what other bikes compared to the caad10 in its price range (2000$ canadian) andwhat are your insights?
That CAAD 10 frame is as good as it gets without moving to carbon.
#30
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Bikes: 2012 GT Transeo 3 2014 Cannondale CAAD 10 105
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#31
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Location: Someplace trying to figure it out
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Bikes: Cannondale EVO, CAAD9, Giant cross bike.
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The TCR that Giant produced a couple of years ago was supposed to compete with the 10, and it's a good light comfortable frame, but they didn't have an entry point at about $1,500. There's was priced like the old Ultegra CAAD10.
For my money, it's the best aluminum frame ever. And I've ridden a ton of bikes.
#32
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Bikes: 2017 Ridley Noah SL - Candy Apple DA9000, 2011 CAAD10 Berzerker Ult6800, 2013 FOCUS Mares CX Ult6800
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Okay, I've definitely seen this video before. The clicking sounds just like my bike when I haven't tuned the RD properly and the chain hits an adjacent cog. I think other posters said this before about your RD. About the grinding from the FD - like I said before - that's probably just a trim issue (or a flexy chain ring issue).
The only difference between the CAAD8 and CAAD10 geometry wise is 1.5 cm of headtube height. The 10 is lower. Weight wise there is a slight difference but whether this really contributes to a difference in everyday riding is probably no. The internal cable routing is nice though aesthetically. Not sure about functionally since I've never dealt with it before, but from what I've read it's not exactly the easiest to work with when something goes wrong with the cables.
My friend's 10? The chain fell off the FD, slapped the chain stay, and cracked it. I own a bike with aluminum chain stays too and my chain's also fallen off (once in traffic; a little disconcerting) and all I had to do was pull it back onto a chain ring. No cracked aluminum or the like. The aluminum on the 10 is very, very thin in places. This means you better be careful with the 10. If you Google allen keys and CAAD 10s you'll find actual stories of people who've dropped allen keys on their CAADs and ended up denting it. You'll also find stories of CAAD 10s being laid to rest after being dropped by the owner. Not even crashed; just accidentally laid over. CAAD 10s being dented is so common that you'll even find a story of an LBS trying to sell a dented 10 for a hefty discount. People have suggested that the 8 is sturdier than the 10 to accidental damage.
Allen key dents CAAD 10
Considering a Caad10 for all around bike - Weight Weenies
Handlebar dents CAAD 10:
https://marcmarino.tumblr.com/post/10...ur-caad10-just
Knee dents CAAD 10:
https://www.******.com/r/bicycling/co..._do_you_think/
CAAD 10 returned because of top tube dent:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awb7LX4dN0o
Shoe dents CAAD 10:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...chainstay.html
I know I've laid down my aluminum bike several times by accident and I would hate to have a dent in it from a careless accident. I've also had one really bad accident on my bike and although I managed to delaminate the carbon fork and bend the rear derailleur, I didn't dent anything on my bike. Oh right. My bike? KHS Flite 700. Model year 2005.
I don't have anything against the CAAD 10. I'm just speaking from experience as a relatively new road bike owner - you're going to drop the bike/lay it down eventually and when that happens - you don't want your investment to be wrecked. I've had a pedal wrench dropped on mine from waist height with no ill effects except a small nick in the paint. If you are very careful with your bikes and want that racier geometry, then get the CAAD 10 by all means. If you're anything like me and tend to be ham-fisted at the worst of times - then just be aware that the CAAD 10 is a bit vulnerable to accidental damage (especially its top tube). If I got a CAAD 10 I would a) be very happy but b) invest in a chain stay protector and a top tube protector. Hell I might even just take a punctured tube and wrap it around the chain stays and top tube - so they don't get trashed to easily.
The only difference between the CAAD8 and CAAD10 geometry wise is 1.5 cm of headtube height. The 10 is lower. Weight wise there is a slight difference but whether this really contributes to a difference in everyday riding is probably no. The internal cable routing is nice though aesthetically. Not sure about functionally since I've never dealt with it before, but from what I've read it's not exactly the easiest to work with when something goes wrong with the cables.
My friend's 10? The chain fell off the FD, slapped the chain stay, and cracked it. I own a bike with aluminum chain stays too and my chain's also fallen off (once in traffic; a little disconcerting) and all I had to do was pull it back onto a chain ring. No cracked aluminum or the like. The aluminum on the 10 is very, very thin in places. This means you better be careful with the 10. If you Google allen keys and CAAD 10s you'll find actual stories of people who've dropped allen keys on their CAADs and ended up denting it. You'll also find stories of CAAD 10s being laid to rest after being dropped by the owner. Not even crashed; just accidentally laid over. CAAD 10s being dented is so common that you'll even find a story of an LBS trying to sell a dented 10 for a hefty discount. People have suggested that the 8 is sturdier than the 10 to accidental damage.
Allen key dents CAAD 10
Considering a Caad10 for all around bike - Weight Weenies
Handlebar dents CAAD 10:
https://marcmarino.tumblr.com/post/10...ur-caad10-just
Knee dents CAAD 10:
https://www.******.com/r/bicycling/co..._do_you_think/
CAAD 10 returned because of top tube dent:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awb7LX4dN0o
Shoe dents CAAD 10:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...chainstay.html
I know I've laid down my aluminum bike several times by accident and I would hate to have a dent in it from a careless accident. I've also had one really bad accident on my bike and although I managed to delaminate the carbon fork and bend the rear derailleur, I didn't dent anything on my bike. Oh right. My bike? KHS Flite 700. Model year 2005.
I don't have anything against the CAAD 10. I'm just speaking from experience as a relatively new road bike owner - you're going to drop the bike/lay it down eventually and when that happens - you don't want your investment to be wrecked. I've had a pedal wrench dropped on mine from waist height with no ill effects except a small nick in the paint. If you are very careful with your bikes and want that racier geometry, then get the CAAD 10 by all means. If you're anything like me and tend to be ham-fisted at the worst of times - then just be aware that the CAAD 10 is a bit vulnerable to accidental damage (especially its top tube). If I got a CAAD 10 I would a) be very happy but b) invest in a chain stay protector and a top tube protector. Hell I might even just take a punctured tube and wrap it around the chain stays and top tube - so they don't get trashed to easily.
I own 2 x CAAD10s and locally, there are a few people who have recently moved from carbon frames back to CAAD10s - they must really be crappy and fragile, given the amount of racing my bikes have done and the others that I have direct experience of - not interweb-experience... I have also seen carbon framesets crack and break at seemingly little - it happens - doesn't mean the frames are garbage at all.
Sure, things will go wrong with them - not unlike any other bike - but thems the breaks at times. One of my mates cracked the rear chain-stay on a CAAD10 that had done >30,000Km and it was warranty-replaced with a current frameset - no questions asked.
I suspect that some of the stories you quoted, may be just that - 'stories.'
To the OP - first, I'd get the groupset tuned PROPERLY, ride it in its best tune for a while and then determine which way you'd like to go.
cheers
#33
Senior Member
I have 3 caad10s, starting from 2011. no complaints so far
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