First new road bike
#1
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First new road bike
Hi, having using a mountain bike for a long time, I would like to switch to a road bike.
At first, I was looking for an alu bike, but after reading a bit, it seems I will probably regret it.
So Im looking for a carbon bike with at least 105 parts. Is that a good choice for a first road bike ?
Is there any brand I should avoid ?
I was looking at Specialized bikes in particular. My mountain bike is a Specialized and I never had a problem with it in 10 years.
I like the look of the Cannondale bikes too.
I was under the impression that in this product range, you cant really go wrong.
Thank you.
P.s. Sorry for the bad phrase structure. English isnt my native language.
At first, I was looking for an alu bike, but after reading a bit, it seems I will probably regret it.
So Im looking for a carbon bike with at least 105 parts. Is that a good choice for a first road bike ?
Is there any brand I should avoid ?
I was looking at Specialized bikes in particular. My mountain bike is a Specialized and I never had a problem with it in 10 years.
I like the look of the Cannondale bikes too.
I was under the impression that in this product range, you cant really go wrong.
Thank you.
P.s. Sorry for the bad phrase structure. English isnt my native language.
#2
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From: Westchester County, NY
Bikes: Giant TCR SL3 and Trek 1.5
I would never say you'd regret an aluminum bike, as there are many that are great, comfortable and affordable. Carbon is a want, not a need.
Folks here rave about the Cannondale CAAD 10 and it's definitely a solid bike. You also can't go wrong with a Giant Defy. You should be able to get both with a 105 groupset for under $1,500. Specialized bikes are fine, but I don't have much experience with them. Just looking at comparable models, their price points seem to be a bit higher than the other brands, but every manufacturer has different names and it's hard to easily do side-by-side comparisons.
Folks here rave about the Cannondale CAAD 10 and it's definitely a solid bike. You also can't go wrong with a Giant Defy. You should be able to get both with a 105 groupset for under $1,500. Specialized bikes are fine, but I don't have much experience with them. Just looking at comparable models, their price points seem to be a bit higher than the other brands, but every manufacturer has different names and it's hard to easily do side-by-side comparisons.
#3
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From: Texas
Bikes: Ridley Noah fast, Colnago CLX,Giant Propel Advanced, Pinnerello Gogma 65.1, Specialized S-works Venge, CAADX,Cervelo S3
Hi, having using a mountain bike for a long time, I would like to switch to a road bike.
At first, I was looking for an alu bike, but after reading a bit, it seems I will probably regret it.
So Im looking for a carbon bike with at least 105 parts. Is that a good choice for a first road bike ?
Is there any brand I should avoid ?
I was looking at Specialized bikes in particular. My mountain bike is a Specialized and I never had a problem with it in 10 years.
I like the look of the Cannondale bikes too.
I was under the impression that in this product range, you cant really go wrong.
Thank you.
P.s. Sorry for the bad phrase structure. English isnt my native language.
At first, I was looking for an alu bike, but after reading a bit, it seems I will probably regret it.
So Im looking for a carbon bike with at least 105 parts. Is that a good choice for a first road bike ?
Is there any brand I should avoid ?
I was looking at Specialized bikes in particular. My mountain bike is a Specialized and I never had a problem with it in 10 years.
I like the look of the Cannondale bikes too.
I was under the impression that in this product range, you cant really go wrong.
Thank you.
P.s. Sorry for the bad phrase structure. English isnt my native language.
My first road bike was a aluminium specialized secteur and I regretted getting the 2300 shimano's. They broke everytime and were just terrible. One thing I noticed is specialized and trek put low end specs on their bikes and overcharge for brand name. I now have a cannondale and felt bike which I love.
Can't go wrong with those brands but most importantly make sure the bike feels right and comfortble
#4
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From: Memphis TN area
Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)
I think you should try to get at least a 105 group or the new Tiagra 10-sp at the very least. I wanted a CF bike but just couldn't swing it. I ended up finding a previous year Felt Z85 with 105 group for under $1K. Has over 1,600 miles on it now and I love it.
The first bike I looked at last year was an Orbea with 2300 group, and I hated it. They didn't have the size I needed and the little thumb levers felt like junk.
The first bike I looked at last year was an Orbea with 2300 group, and I hated it. They didn't have the size I needed and the little thumb levers felt like junk.
#6
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After looking around, I was offered a test bike (500km)Specialized Roubaix SL4 expert UI2 2013 for 2500$. Should I jump on it ? Im a little unsure about the maintenance cost. If something happens, I believe its pretty expensive to replace Ultegra Di2 components
Is there a difference with a test bike and a non test bike ?
I would like to know also I can replace the cassette (11-28) for something like a 11-32. Where I live, ive got some big hills. 20% on average with some 25-30%.
Thank you.
Is there a difference with a test bike and a non test bike ?
I would like to know also I can replace the cassette (11-28) for something like a 11-32. Where I live, ive got some big hills. 20% on average with some 25-30%.
Thank you.
Last edited by laf; 09-04-13 at 06:43 PM.
#7
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Bikes: 2013 Allez, 2013 Sirrus, 1984 Legend Compe
After looking around, I was offered a test bike (500km)Specialized Roubaix SL4 expert UI2 2013 for 2500$. Should I jump on it ? Im a little unsure about the maintenance cost. If something happens, I believe its pretty expensive to replace Ultegra Di2 components
Is there a difference with a test bike and a non test bike ?
I would like to know also I can replace the cassette (11-28) for something like a 11-32. Where I live, ive got some big hills. 20% on average with some 25-30%.
Thank you.
Is there a difference with a test bike and a non test bike ?
I would like to know also I can replace the cassette (11-28) for something like a 11-32. Where I live, ive got some big hills. 20% on average with some 25-30%.
Thank you.
2500 is a good deal for that bike. Shimano components are reliable, i would not worry about maintenance cost.
#8
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From: SoCal
First off, I don't know your financial situation. If that bike is not a lot a money for you then sure go ahead and get it. Personally, I would get something cheaper for your fist bike and see how much you ride it. Minimum 105 or SRAM Apex would be nice if you can afford that (and sounds like you can). SRAM is great for hills by the way! (I'm obviously biased)
#9
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I couldnt get my hands on the Roubaix :-(.
Im still on the market for a bike but Im wondering what gearing should i go with. Like I said i live in an area where there is 20% grade hills. I dont know if I will need the 11-32.
Right now , Im looking at the 2014 Cannondale Supersix Evo 3 Ultegra. Dealers are offering deals on pre-order. The bike come with a 50-34 and 11-25 but I believe you can put 11-32 on the new Ultegra 6800.
Im also looking for a 2013 Felt F3 which is several hundreds cheaper but looks absolutely great in person. But the gearing is even worse for climbing (52-36 / 11-25). And I think you cant go higher than 11-28 and that version of Ultegra.
If I was on flat road, I would probably already have bought the felt.
But on the other hand the Cannondale is coming with the new 11 speed Ultegra. And the 11-32 possibility. I can buy it and call it a day for several years.
Any insight ?
Im still on the market for a bike but Im wondering what gearing should i go with. Like I said i live in an area where there is 20% grade hills. I dont know if I will need the 11-32.
Right now , Im looking at the 2014 Cannondale Supersix Evo 3 Ultegra. Dealers are offering deals on pre-order. The bike come with a 50-34 and 11-25 but I believe you can put 11-32 on the new Ultegra 6800.
Im also looking for a 2013 Felt F3 which is several hundreds cheaper but looks absolutely great in person. But the gearing is even worse for climbing (52-36 / 11-25). And I think you cant go higher than 11-28 and that version of Ultegra.
If I was on flat road, I would probably already have bought the felt.
But on the other hand the Cannondale is coming with the new 11 speed Ultegra. And the 11-32 possibility. I can buy it and call it a day for several years.
Any insight ?
#10
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From: Memphis TN area
Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)
I don't know how strong you are but I'm not very and have a tough time managing the 12-13% grades around here with my 50-34 and 11-28 gearing. I would go for 11-32 if I were you, but that's just me.
#13
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That roubaix would have been a complete steal. that is literally 50% off retail and it was also an awesome bike
.
I dont think you need 11-32. 11-28 should be enough. I started with 11-28 on my z85 and it was tough but it took me about 2 months to be fine with the 34-28 combo. Now I barely use it and its only been a year.
. I dont think you need 11-32. 11-28 should be enough. I started with 11-28 on my z85 and it was tough but it took me about 2 months to be fine with the 34-28 combo. Now I barely use it and its only been a year.
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#14
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CAAD 10.
https://www.cannondale.com/catalog/pr.../category/916/
You wont be disappointed. Ask anyone who has ridden one.
https://www.cannondale.com/catalog/pr.../category/916/
You wont be disappointed. Ask anyone who has ridden one.
#15
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That roubaix would have been a complete steal. that is literally 50% off retail and it was also an awesome bike
.
I dont think you need 11-32. 11-28 should be enough. I started with 11-28 on my z85 and it was tough but it took me about 2 months to be fine with the 34-28 combo. Now I barely use it and its only been a year.
. I dont think you need 11-32. 11-28 should be enough. I started with 11-28 on my z85 and it was tough but it took me about 2 months to be fine with the 34-28 combo. Now I barely use it and its only been a year.
CAAD 10.
https://www.cannondale.com/catalog/pr.../category/916/
You wont be disappointed. Ask anyone who has ridden one.
https://www.cannondale.com/catalog/pr.../category/916/
You wont be disappointed. Ask anyone who has ridden one.
#16
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From: Atlanta GA
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I find it hard to believe there would be many 20% average hills anywhere but there might be so if that is the case go for the 32. I know of hills that hit 23% in certain segments but they are short in nature and momentum takes care of it.
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#17
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#18
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In my opinion, for a non pro rider, without a doubt or hesitation it is better. Full disclosure, I am biased and opinionated though, I would choose aluminum over carbon any day and when it comes to aluminum road bikes, there is only Cannondale.
#20
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Stiffer ? Better handling ?From what I read, the Caad is heavier, and ride is harsher than the Evo.
#21
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In my limited experience, carbon does not handle/respond/feel the way aluminum or steel does. We have a few big, winding hills around here and on fast descents, I have more confidence on aluminum and steel. There is a distinct difference in feel for each material, carbon doesn't suit me. Aluminum feels light and agile. On steel I can feel the power transfer from the crank to the wheels. On carbon there always seems to be a slight sense of sliding on ice. This is particularly true on the winding down hills. I tried swapping stem, wheels and tires but did not ever get the 'feel' I wanted. It is all subjective of course.
I have seen carbon bikes and components suddenly have catastrophic failure and have since decided I will stick with metal. It can fail too but I haven't ever seen steel or aluminum have sudden catastrophic failure.
Of course the upside for everyone else being drunk with carbon lust is that keeps prices down for the stuff I want.
#22
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Weight is not really a "thing" for me. My current race bike is steel. It feels heavy for a race bike when you lift it but has plenty speed when I am in the saddle.
In my limited experience, carbon does not handle/respond/feel the way aluminum or steel does. We have a few big, winding hills around here and on fast descents, I have more confidence on aluminum and steel. There is a distinct difference in feel for each material, carbon doesn't suit me. Aluminum feels light and agile. On steel I can feel the power transfer from the crank to the wheels. On carbon there always seems to be a slight sense of sliding on ice. This is particularly true on the winding down hills. I tried swapping stem, wheels and tires but did not ever get the 'feel' I wanted. It is all subjective of course.
I have seen carbon bikes and components suddenly have catastrophic failure and have since decided I will stick with metal. It can fail too but I haven't ever seen steel or aluminum have sudden catastrophic failure.
Of course the upside for everyone else being drunk with carbon lust is that keeps prices down for the stuff I want.
In my limited experience, carbon does not handle/respond/feel the way aluminum or steel does. We have a few big, winding hills around here and on fast descents, I have more confidence on aluminum and steel. There is a distinct difference in feel for each material, carbon doesn't suit me. Aluminum feels light and agile. On steel I can feel the power transfer from the crank to the wheels. On carbon there always seems to be a slight sense of sliding on ice. This is particularly true on the winding down hills. I tried swapping stem, wheels and tires but did not ever get the 'feel' I wanted. It is all subjective of course.
I have seen carbon bikes and components suddenly have catastrophic failure and have since decided I will stick with metal. It can fail too but I haven't ever seen steel or aluminum have sudden catastrophic failure.
Of course the upside for everyone else being drunk with carbon lust is that keeps prices down for the stuff I want.
Have you tried good carbon bikes ? Or only the entry level ones ?
#23
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You can always look at an allez expert or race if you decide to go high end alu. I wouldn't though. The want for carbon will eventually settle in and you will be stuck with a 2000 dollar aluminum bike, not good. get something like a z85 if you are just starting or maybe a lower end caad or allez (I believe the z85 is the best bang for the buck). When you know what you want sell it for a minimum loss and BAMMM get youself a freakishly awesome 10k dollar carbon bike.
I had a z85 for about 4 months until I decided to jump onto the roubaix. While the roubaix was an awesome machine I chose it based on my neck problems. Now that my fitness level has increased and I barely use my neck, I wish I would have waited a bit longer and gotten that Venge I wanted. Crap happens. I start racing this season and if everything goes well next year or on 2015 I'll buy myself the S works Venge I really want... Who knows, by then it might even be another bike.
Good luck and take in mind that right now you dont know what you want so choose what fits you best right now because your riding style will change with time and you will eventually figure out what kind of bike you need instead of want.
I had a z85 for about 4 months until I decided to jump onto the roubaix. While the roubaix was an awesome machine I chose it based on my neck problems. Now that my fitness level has increased and I barely use my neck, I wish I would have waited a bit longer and gotten that Venge I wanted. Crap happens. I start racing this season and if everything goes well next year or on 2015 I'll buy myself the S works Venge I really want... Who knows, by then it might even be another bike.
Good luck and take in mind that right now you dont know what you want so choose what fits you best right now because your riding style will change with time and you will eventually figure out what kind of bike you need instead of want.
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#24
I have a 2011 Orbea Aqua aluminum frame with 105 groupset that is awesome. Absorbs road well and the componetry is great for the money. Bought mine new one year old at my LBS for under $1000 but a new one today with Rival is around $1300 roughly. Well worth it too.
That said.............I bought a 2013 Orca with Rival and now ride it. Different ride??? Yes but if not for the deal I got I would be happy to remain on the Aqua. Now if my co-worker will buy it like he said he would I will recoup some of the money on the full carbon Orca!
That said.............I bought a 2013 Orca with Rival and now ride it. Different ride??? Yes but if not for the deal I got I would be happy to remain on the Aqua. Now if my co-worker will buy it like he said he would I will recoup some of the money on the full carbon Orca!
#25
Saw your hill % and you may want to go to a higher gearing like the 32 if you climb alot. The Orca came with a 11-32 cassette which here in the mountains is okay for me. Takes the edge off the real steep climbs at times for sure.



