TrekMan32

So I bought a 1989 Trek 1200 Aluminum road bike about a year ago, and it's not in the best shape, everything is original on it. Just wondering if it is worth putting time into restoring it? Is the frame still considered good? As for components I'd upgrade to a 2015 Shimano 105 groupset which I already have purchased. Is the frame geometry still good? I'm kind of new to this stuff so it would be great to get some helpful feedback. I'm looking to turn this into a utility/crossover/road bike for getting me around in Toronto, hauling some textbooks on the back sometimes, being durable, but also fast and lightweight. I know I kind of want the best of all worlds here, hopefully thats what I can get! Any feedback would be appreciated!

I've attached some info on the frame below. Mine is the 1200.

Soody

You can't.

With a steel frame, spreading the rear from 126mm (your hub) to 130mm (11/10 speed hubs) is easy. You can just jam it in there because steel is happy to bend.

Aluminium however, does not like to bend. Some people do spread aluminium frames, but it is dangerous.

Aluminium also has a fatigue life. Those frames get worse the longer they're in use. If the components are original, even worn, maybe it hasn't been ridden too much. Many people happily ride alum bikes from this era.

IMO, go ahead and restore it, but do it with older parts and don't spend too much.

rms13

If you like the frame than its worth it. Keep in mind you'll need new wheels as well to run the 11 speed group

rms13

Go over to classic and vintage forums and you'll find plenty of people with vintage aluminum bikes that upgraded to modern 130mm wheels without having their frames explode.

Bob Dopolina 

I remember that bike. I was a Trek dealer at the time.

Since you already have the groupset you're a bit committed but spacing the rear end to 130OLD to match this groupset may not be a good idea (as was mentioned above).

I'd look at replacing what really needs it with product from the same era. This would require some legwork on your time and you may have to scour some of your local shops to find what you need.

I would be very weary of locking up a 105 bike outside or at work/school. It's too much of a target, at that level.

Perytion

A while back a buddy of mine traded me a Trek 1200 frameset (white w/ red lettering) for a chainring. I built it up with older Shimano 105 components I got from Craigslist and eBay. It was a great bike, fast and light. The geometry was comfortable enough, though perhaps a bit aggressive for a daily romper. The wheelbase especially felt a little tight.

But I would agree with others in advising against spreading the stays to accept a 130mm hub. On an aluminum frame it is inelegant at best, and possibly dangerous. However, suitable components and wheels can often be found on Craigslist at a good price, especially if you're in an area where people are actively converting their old road bikes to fixies--they'll be ditching exactly the stuff you need to make your build into a quality ride.

And FWIW, I think downtube shifters are the bees knees. They're less susceptible to damage than barcons or brifters because they're not dangling off the handlebars, and once you get used to reaching between your knees it's not much of a hassle.

RoadGuy

As long as the frame is in good condition, there is very little risk to sliding a 130mm rear wheel onto a 89 bonded aluminum Trek frame. I've done this to several late 80s and early 90s bonded Trek frames in the past year without a single problem.

The earliest is was the 88 Trek 1000 that I restored for my oldest son was a 97 Trek 1400 that I restored for myself. You're only talking a 4mm widening, and you can spread the dropout that much without thinking. The rear wheel will drop in without thinking about opening up the dropouts.

CliffordK

I much prefer my dropouts and wheels to fit, no cramming something that is too big or small into the gap.

How much hacking do you wish to do to get a 11s rear hub to fit?

I run a 9s hub at 126mm, using an off-center rear rim. I have no doubt a 10s would also work.

11s would be a little bit wider. It would be pushing it, but might work with the OC rim.

The 5800 hub uses the stock 10mm axle, but has end caps which would be a pain.
The 5700 hub doesn't use the endcaps, so it should be easier to space down to 126mm, but doesn't fit the 11s cassette or freehub.

But, you could rebuild the 5800 hub using a longer axle, and lock nuts rather than end caps, and set it to 126mm.

rms13

My bike is steel with 126mm spacing and I had no problem sliding an 11 speed wheel in. It's true that you can cold set an aluminum frame but the wheel should slide into his frame without much effort.

Bob Dopolina 

Bad plan.

rpenmanparker 

Don't ask me why, but I'm pretty sure that was a typo and he meant can't, not can.

rms13

yes, meant can't cold set but can slide wheel in. But OP could also just sell the bike and put money toward a different frame and wheels

Bob Dopolina 

Yeah, autocorrect can be a batch!

CafeVelo

Unless trek changed their numbering system at some point, that frame would have been their cheapest road frame. You could likely find something better that was made more recently and is already spaced for modern wheels, at roughly the same price as the restoration you plan to do.

RoadGuy

When it comes to the bonded aluminum frames Trek shared that across the product line. There were steel and aluminum forks, and different seat lugs/brackets, and bottom bracket lugs. Later model years featured Easton E-9 tubing, and earlier frames were Alcoa 6061 tubing.

I noticed (and confirmed by weighing on a digital scale) that the 60cm 1991 Trek 1200 (steel fork & Alcoa 6061) that I owned briefly was lighter than the 52cm 1988 Trek 1000 (steel fork & Alcoa 6061) that I built up for my son, and slightly heavier than my 56cm 1997 Trek 1400 (aluminum fork & Easton E9).

The weight range between the three different size frames was about 3.5 lbs (Trek 1400 22, Trek 1200 22.5, Trek 1000 25lbs).

It's true that a new 105 group would cost more that a complete used Trek bike that would have a 105 group with fewer gears. You could probably find a used Trek bike with 105 8 or 9 speed group for $300-$450.

TrekMan32

Okay, so I'm a totally new to this stuff, so excuse me if I sound dumb
1. How would I spread the stays IF I were to use the new groupset?
2. I still have all of the original components, so how much of the new stuff can I use with the old stuff? I don't want to have downtube shifters anymore. Can I use the new shifters, detailers, etc. with JUST the old cassette? I got new hubs (also 105 5800) for the wheels that I plan on rebuilding cause the old hubs and spokes are pretty beat up. I'd like as much of this to be as new as possible. ALSO because I've got all black 2015 components but the original is silver and kind of dull now.
Sorry that I'm new to all of this, I didn't even realize the width of the back would be an issue! Thanks for everyone's input!

CafeVelo

1: on alloy frames you can't spread it. On bonded alloy frames you really can't. It's a no go, you can't do that, you can't use a modern hub on that frame.

2: basically, no. You can't mix the components except in very rare coincidences. Groups generally must stay together, or at least the same speeds. I guess you could change the chainrings to the proper speed and keep the calipers but that's really it. Of course, this assumes you can use the group on that bike, and you can't.

JohnDThompson 

The 1200 frame was identical to the other bonded aluminum frames Trek offered at that time and was designed to emulate the ride characteristics of a high-end steel frame of that time to avoid infringing on Klein's patents on oversize tubing to increase stiffness etc. If you like how the frame rides, there is no reason why you shouldn't continue riding it, but as others note, cold-setting the frame to accommodate a wider rear hub is not a good idea.

Soody

There's quite a lot of money/ nice bits going on here, why not just get a top shelf 80s/90s steel frame to do your thing with? It's not gonna cost you much more and even forgetting the rear spacing issue, you'd end up with a better ride.

TrekMan32

I think I'm going to take everyones advice and find a nicer frame that's worth restoring

v70cat

Just purchase a new Cad 10.

richietables 

Nice vintage steel would ride great with the 105 group you have!

v70cat

Why do people refer to old heavy frame as vintage?

Vintage means special old and heavy is just that.

CafeVelo

Have you ridden a proper steel bike?

v70cat

I have ridden/own a Lemonds. My carbon bike rides so much better that I only use the Lemonds on the trainer.