loimpact

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I've used tons of lubes have many bikes and definitely no perfect lube....(still looking for the holy grail)

I think I will try the post-app wipe down and see if that changes anything. It's similar to what I do with Rock n Roll Gold. (Post-app, I wipe until the towel is literally clean)

We'll see if the same will work for squirt & I can get ride of the "gunk".

g321

On the other hand on MSW's website for non-race chains:
"Unlike race chains that are cleaned thoroughly before each waxing, a training chain jumps into the proverbial pool without a shower. This is acceptable, however, because we aren't expecting maximum efficiency from a training chain, we simply want a well lubricated, quiet chain for logging miles. Amazingly, a hot wax bath cleans a dirty chain quite well, similar to the way a cross country skier uses a “hot scrape” to clean a ski base. If chain was ridden in dry conditions, no cleaning required, just throw chain in pot. If chain was ridden in wet conditions, cleaning not required, but some cleaning will keep wax cleaner in SC [slow cooker] for subsequent chains."

canklecat

TBH, my lowest effort chain is the one hybrid I still run with Park CL-1. Despite the Friction Facts review that claimed it washes out easily in rain, I've never had any problems with that bike's chain in heavy rain. I apply it once or twice a year and do absolutely nothing else. I don't wipe it, clean it, nada. I just ride until it squeaks (never) or is worn out (maybe 18 months). If I reapply any CL-1 I don't wipe it, I just dribble it sparingly on the chain. Yeah, it's grimy but doesn't accumulate waxy snot gobs like other lubes.

It has some PTFE in a medium weight oil base. A few days after applying the surface feels slightly tacky, like a Post-It Note. It seems pretty tenacious.

If not for the occasional chain tattoo when my calf touches the chainring, it's pretty close to perfect.

I can see why some folks swear by NFS and Chain-L, which supposedly are better than CL-1. I just have a bottle of CL-1 that's still half full after 5 years and won't bother with another oily lube until it's gone.

Ferrouscious 

I've had the same terrible experience with Squirt. After all the hype I've read about it on the World Wide Web, I was expecting better than a lube that left chunks of wax in my pulleys. I've gone back to White Lightning. It uses a nonbinding agent (soap, I believe) to allow the dirty wax to flake off. It's not perfect, but I've used it for plenty long and it's cheap. I'll try Rock n' Roll next time.

smashndash

I dip my chain in hot wax and use squirt to refresh when I’m lazy (rarely). IME it’s slightly dirtier than molten speed wax - which is literally spotless - but nowhere even close to producing the black tar that many other lubes do. I wonder if people who say they have “clean chains” when applying squirt actually degreased their chains thoroughly by dipping it in something strong like petrol or OMS.

It’s very easy to make a chain look clean from the outside, only to have a bunch of gunk on the inside.

Ferrouscious 

I followed the MSW guide to the T. Brand new chain, virgin OMS- 3 rounds with wiping everything between. First stays overnight, second and third are vigorous shakes for 1 minute. Those are followed up by 3 rounds of virgin acetone baths in a new container. Allow to dry for at least 30 minutes. Drivetrain completely cleaned with acetone. That means taking everything apart and cleaning each individual tooth valley. But hey, maybe that isn't enough. Maybe I should buy new a new cassette, pulleys, and chainrings too.

smashndash

Nah ofc that’s enough. Also I would not lump “leaving chunks of wax on pulleys” and “dirty” together. Residue is not the same thing as grit. It’s not gonna accelerate wear or leave stains. Did you end up seeing a lot of grit?

SurferCyclist

I've used Squirt for around 3 years, it must be initially applied to a completely oil/grease free clean chain. I then reapply every 200 miles or so and just wipe chain with rag and apply a single drop to each roller.. All my miles are dry, but if I get caught in rain or go through a puddle etc then I wipe chain and reapply just a drop on each roller. Yes over time there will be a build up of black gunk/dirty wax but nothing untoward. I don't know if maybe some people expect to apply a lubricant to a chain and then after x amount of miles expect the chain to be like new. This never happens despite what marketing people might say!

I find the chain to be quiet and smooth and it's easy so until something convinces me otherwise I'll continue to use Squirt.

Racing Dan

Or maybe you should find a lube that actually has some affinity for metal and is compatible with normal chain lubes. Seems to me the "you did the 25 step plan wrong" is an easy cop out to a product that isnt very user friendly in the first place. Like squealing disc brakes that gets blamed on the user for not doing the equally elaborate break in juuust right. Bahhh :-)

Paraffin is too hard to work well as a lubricant in normal temperatures, meaning it gets scraped off where you need it and not replaced, because it cant move around like oil or grease. Thats why it doesnt last long before the chain gets noisy. That combined with the hassle of hot dipping makes for at perfect storm of endless faff.

Were it me, I would dissolve some of the pellets in naphtha or lawnmower gas and use it to top up as the chain gets squeaky. - It dissolves better if its molten when you mix it. 4:1 or 5:1 should do it.

Ferrouscious 

Yes, I saw a fair amount of black waxy gunk everywhere. Enough to leave a nice black streak on my front derailleur from shifting.

I went back to White Lightning. It sheds off keeping the drivetrain cleaner.

canklecat

Reminds me of my first experience with Rock 'n' Roll Gold...

After using it a couple of weeks as directed I noticed what appeared to be gobs of waxy boogers between the cogs and in the pulleys. After fishing them out with a hooked tool I realized it was paper fluff coated with RnR Gold and road grime. Instead of using a shop towel or decent shop grade tough paper towels I just recycled paper napkins or whatever was handy. Spinning the chain through that cheap paper was causing problems. After switching to better towels that problem cleared up.

RnR Absolute Dry and Gold aren't bad as drip lubes go. But not as clean as melted wax.