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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

What road bike do you have?

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Old 08-19-11, 07:05 PM
  #18676  
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I’ve replaced the fork with an Easton EC90 slx to raise my stem height – whoever had the frame & fork before cut the previous fork too short for me. I also switched the integrated headset from a small height FSA orbit IS-2 with a FSA Orbit carbon 15mm height. I am a little disappointed that the FSA cap on top of the head tube spins as I swivel the handlebars…

… anyone have any simple ideas to hold the carbon cone piece from spinning around???

--- is that why I see others with many small aluminum spacers between the head set and stem ? (rather than a large 15mm carbon spacer)

Anyway…


2006 Fuji Roubaix SL old fork

2006 Fuji Roubaix SL new fork
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Old 08-19-11, 07:35 PM
  #18677  
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Lowcell....I trust you will be getting a white saddle.
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Old 08-19-11, 07:35 PM
  #18678  
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Soul 3.0SL wheels, 105 compact crank, ultegra 6700 brakes. everything else is stock (oh yeah, the saddle is a RXL) It's a nice ride, nothing too fancy.
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Old 08-19-11, 07:39 PM
  #18679  
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Originally Posted by billykmd


Soul 3.0SL wheels, 105 compact crank, ultegra 6700 brakes. everything else is stock (oh yeah, the saddle is a RXL) It's a nice ride, nothing too fancy.
Time to bust out the leveler and work on that saddle.
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Old 08-19-11, 08:01 PM
  #18680  
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Originally Posted by Vicelord
Time to bust out the leveler and work on that saddle.
It may be the picture, but the seat is level. (I actually went down to the garage and check it out...)
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Old 08-19-11, 08:10 PM
  #18681  
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Originally Posted by Trenton
I am a little disappointed that the FSA cap on top of the head tube spins as I swivel the handlebars…

… anyone have any simple ideas to hold the carbon cone piece from spinning around???

--- is that why I see others with many small aluminum spacers between the head set and stem ? (rather than a large 15mm carbon spacer
Not sure what you're getting at, but let's see here...

Are you saying that the top piece of the headset spins with the bars, or does it spin independently? If it moves with the bars, that's fine; if it's independent, the spacer-stem-headset stack isn't tightened down properly.

If you installed it right, the top edge of the spacers would be about 1 to 2 mm higher than the top edge of the steerer tube. That way, when you tighten the top cap, it'll hold everything together.
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Old 08-19-11, 08:18 PM
  #18682  
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Just bought today
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Old 08-19-11, 08:52 PM
  #18683  
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Originally Posted by BarracksSi
Not sure what you're getting at, but let's see here...

Are you saying that the top piece of the headset spins with the bars, or does it spin independently? If it moves with the bars, that's fine; if it's independent, the spacer-stem-headset stack isn't tightened down properly.

If you installed it right, the top edge of the spacers would be about 1 to 2 mm higher than the top edge of the steerer tube. That way, when you tighten the top cap, it'll hold everything together.
+1. Make sure the cap is pushing down the stem not the steerer tube and it is tight before you tighten the stem nuts. There are two ways of doing that. One by putting enough spacers under the stem so the top of the stem is 1-2mm above the steerer tube(not recommended) or have the stem level with the steerer tube and place a spacer on top before placing the top cap.
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Old 08-19-11, 09:51 PM
  #18684  
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Originally Posted by UCIMBZ
+1. Make sure the cap is pushing down the stem not the steerer tube and it is tight before you tighten the stem nuts. There are two ways of doing that. One by putting enough spacers under the stem so the top of the stem is 1-2mm above the steerer tube(not recommended) or have the stem level with the steerer tube and place a spacer on top before placing the top cap.
Adding on to that --

Easton's instructions for their carbon steerer tube'd forks is to always use one spacer (I think they say 5 mm, but it might actually be 1 cm) on top of the stem, then the top of that spacer should be 1-2 mm above the top of the steerer. I rearranged the spacers and stem on my bike after I read that.

Ah, here it is, under Installation Instructions, then Page 2 at the bottom of this page:
https://www.eastoncycling.com/en-us/r.../ec90-sl-taper

10 mm spacer on top, leaving 2-3 mm between the top of the top spacer and the top edge of the steerer tube.
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Old 08-20-11, 04:10 AM
  #18685  
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Wow – thank you for the responses everyone.

The upper bearing cover – the carbon cone I called it doesn’t spin freely on its own, but does spin with the handlebars… so that the FSA logo is always on the move. That in itself will not bother me, it’s just that the old FSA orbit cover, though smaller in stack size, never rotated around the steerer tube.



I was curious to know if others using 15mm or larger bearing covers (I see Cane Creek, Trek & others make large, carbon covers) observe their rotating with the handlebars as well.

With the front wheel brake holding the front wheel, I do not feel any wobbling inside the head tube trying to push and pull the bike – I think I’m okay with the install, just wasn’t ready to play “spin the bottle” with the FSA logos.


I did read and cut 1 to 2mm less of a steerer tube below the spacer stack height and even though I plan to further cut the tube when I find a height that I'm happy with, I'll probably keep a 5mm spacer on top - even though Easton's asking for a 10mm above the stem.


-I also like the internal threaded plug thingy that Easton's come up with, something that replaces the expander plugs!


Thank you,
Trent from York, Penna
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Old 08-20-11, 06:12 AM
  #18686  
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I think I have the exact same headset, and it does the same thing. Your earlier headset is a different type; for this one, the bearing is inside the head tube while the carbon cover is just a cover. You're fine.

Check the layouts of these two:
https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=86513
https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=95129
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Old 08-20-11, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by BarracksSi
I think I have the exact same headset, and it does the same thing. Your earlier headset is a different type; for this one, the bearing is inside the head tube while the carbon cover is just a cover. You're fine.

Check the layouts of these two:
https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=86513
https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=95129
Right on.

Although in case of Hincapie's BMC with easton bits I don't see any stack on top. Go figure!



Last edited by UCIMBZ; 08-20-11 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 08-20-11, 02:08 PM
  #18688  
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That's fairly surprising given George's experience with a failed Trek steerer tube during the '06 Paris-Roubiax... failed meaning that George wrecked earlier during the race and apparently elected not to wait for a replacement bike. Then again, winning or not; I think many would agree that George rides with style and class... no extended forks for him.
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Old 08-20-11, 08:09 PM
  #18689  
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My '92 Tommasini road bike, still a great bike for good roads. Plus it fits like an old glove.
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Old 08-21-11, 01:12 AM
  #18690  
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Originally Posted by mandopickr
My '92 Tommasini road bike, still a great bike for good roads. Plus it fits like an old glove.
Beautiful bike, and matches your number plate. Groovy.
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Old 08-21-11, 02:38 AM
  #18691  
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The stable:



The build:
Size 46.5 Caisse D'Epargne Pinarello Dogma (2010/11)
Fulcrum Racing 3 Wheelset, 1555 grams cup and cone bearings.
2011 Campagnolo Super Record 11sp groupset. Single Pivot rear (Naturally)
Deda Zero 100 white bars, 40 outside to outside
Deda zero 100 stem, 110mm
Selle Italia SLR Kit Carbonio Saddle.
Opera Superleonardo Seatpost (Colour matches better )
7.3kg with Ultegra 6700 Pedals.

The training pig:

A very bitsa bike..

Started life as a 2003 Avanti Vivace with a 1 inch threadless alloy fork and 9sp Tiagra Groupset.
Cinelli Ram 44 o-o bars, 130mm stem length (Bought these for $50 bucks, cracked. I have a fair bit of composite experience, so I fixed and painted these)
Ultegra 6600 Shifters.
6700 Front Derailer.
R550 wheelset.
Shimano 105 (5600) Rear derailer with 6700 jockey wheels (Going from 105 level to ultegra level jockey wheels will increase shifting performance quite a lot-good little tip )
Tektro R530 brakes (great unless you'd like to stop )
Most Leopard Saddle
FSA gossomer Crankset 50/34 (re-branded as a Most product)
9.3kg with ultegra 6700 pedals.


The single speed commuter beast, occasionally sees some local trails and flat tracks.
Best things are the elliptical bottom bracket, anti theft skewers, 45x18. Riding this is pure bliss, can lock it up and walk away or it's equally at home burning up roadies on local training roads
11.4kg but the favourite
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Old 08-21-11, 03:49 PM
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My first real road bike
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Old 08-21-11, 04:21 PM
  #18693  
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Originally Posted by giantcfr1
Beautiful bike, and matches your number plate. Groovy.
+1
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Old 08-21-11, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dizon510
having its 1st birthday in a few weeks.
'11 allez e5 comp 52cm
165mm compact rival cranks
sram 1071 cassette 12-26
sram 1051 chain
apex FD/RD/controls
Wheelbuilder.com 24F28R Velocity Deep V's laced to White Industry hubs, Sapim CX-Ray Spokes and brass nipps.
conti gp4000s
sworks carbon 1 bolt post
romin saddle with Ti rails
ritchey wcs 4-axis 110mm
alloy bars in 42cm
fizik microtex tape

nice! How much does yours weigh? Mine is sitting at 17.8 lb

mine is in here somewhere....sram rival groupset and easton ea90slx wheels and some other parts.
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Old 08-21-11, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by VA_Esquire
nice! How much does yours weigh? Mine is sitting at 17.8 lb

mine is in here somewhere....sram rival groupset and easton ea90slx wheels and some other parts.
its at 18.4 lb.

the difference is in the wheels. mine are supposed to be 1716g. i went for strength with the Deep Vs. everyone else on my team went for the lighter 30mm kinlin niobium rims on their Wheelbuilder.com setups.

after i get nice classic bend drops + anondized seat clamp/skewers for flare, ill be done.
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Old 08-21-11, 08:26 PM
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Its a really awesome frame. For the cost I got it for I couldn't have asked for more.
Trying to make it a 16lb. crit bike as I just spent $3500 on school
The seatpost and saddle are boat anchors......
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Old 08-22-11, 07:00 AM
  #18697  
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Originally Posted by mandopickr
My '92 Tommasini road bike, still a great bike for good roads. Plus it fits like an old glove.
Dead sexy.
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Old 08-22-11, 09:35 AM
  #18698  
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Just got it last week.


Last edited by Sir Real; 08-31-11 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 08-22-11, 05:50 PM
  #18699  
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Can anyone tell me what year this bike is?

I know that its a TREK 2100 COMPOSITE with DT shifters.

I just bought it and I'm unsure about the year. Or really what it is worth after having spent hours researching it's value.
I spent $350 on it from a LBS.
Did I get ripped off?
Thanks
DT
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Old 08-22-11, 06:11 PM
  #18700  
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Originally Posted by dtilso


Can anyone tell me what year this bike is?

I know that its a TREK 2100 COMPOSITE with DT shifters.

I just bought it and I'm unsure about the year. Or really what it is worth after having spent hours researching it's value.
I spent $350 on it from a LBS.
Did I get ripped off?
Thanks
DT
Aren't these questions to be asking prior to your purchase?
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