MegaTom

My exact thoughts. Also, don't most component manufacturers offer 1 or 2 year warranties for parts on new bikes? I know at least Shimano and SRAM do...

slynkie

"spontaneous failure" isn't a diagnosis. Spontaneous failure of what, exactly? Nerull's guess is a good one (shattered ball bearing), but you should have the shop open up the seals to check it out. It should probably be under warranty.

$50 is not totally unreasonable for the cost of good steel bearings and installation. It's a 5 minute job though, so see if you can push them on the timetable, and bring the mech a sixpack/bottle of his/her favorite as a thank you.

Clanier

Thanks! Love the scheme on your 10, I was looking for a 10 but couldnt justify passing this bike up with less than 500 miles on it!

longbeachgary

Very nice.

AristoNYC

Out of curiosity, does anyone know when the CAAD lines are usually released? I am not in dire need for a bike yet but would like to upgrade to a CAAD10 Rival, not a fan of the color way to be completely honest (I know, but if I'm dropping 2k I want what I want).

Thanks

LordLivingston

Agreed. I'll be interested to hear what exactly the failure was. And to clarify the timetable, I won't have the bike back until Friday because the shop won't have parts until Wednesday and they are closed Thursday for the holiday. The tech told me it was only a 15 minute job, so it's really just a matter of getting the parts there. I'm not implying the shop is taking too long for the repair, I'm just lamenting the fact that I'll be stuck on the sidelines for a week.

As far as warranty goes, he told me that the only portion of the bearing that's covered under warranty is the outer shell which is welded to the frame, not the bearings themselves. I'll probably be calling Cannondale tomorrow to follow-up and make sure that's the case.

FPSDavid

August or September, I think.

LordLivingston

I purchased my 2013 CAAD10 5 on Julyl 17, 2012.

raatty

M'Lord, i have a Black/RAW 2013 CAAD10 105 - same bike as you. After 600km riding on smooth cycle tracks that have sand dunes next to them and no rain, my bottom bracket started creaking, or pinging. It did sound as it someone was flicking a metal ball inside the frame. took it to the LBS. they said that they would grease it. got it the next day. took it for a ride, and after 15km, the same thing, but not as loud. Took it back. the LBS greased everything on that bike. took the BB apart, greased the headset and anything else. Rode 45 km on friday, then 65km the next day and no problems.

Hopefully this is the problem solved, but due to the issues that i have read on forums, i am thinking about getting a new Bottom Bracket. What did your LBS recommend for you? $50 or $250. i was looking at the SRAM or the Chris King, but don't know what would be good?

any other forum members who have experience in replacing the FSA BB30 with something else and can share their thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Ratty

slynkie

If ALL they did was add grease to fix creaking, they did it wrong. Needs loctite.

mrjim

Great pics Nagrom and macca33.

Here's a couple of mine from this past weekend.

qcpmsame 

BB30 cup installation instructions:https://media.cannondale.com/media/ma...ctions_web.pdf

Bill

bikerjp

It doesn't need loctite. I'd avoid putting that in the shell if possible. These bearings don't seem to last very long and they aren't that expensive so if in doubt I'd just replace them. If new ones still creak then maybe loctite will help. Not sure how easy it will be change out and clean the next time though.

LordLivingston

$250 is definitely not in the budget right now so I didn't get too many details. LBS said that the ceramic was an upgrade in that there is less power loss through the ceramic bearings. I believe he said up to 10 watts per hour. According to this link (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_performance) an amateur racer might generate 200 watts per hour. So, maybe a 5% reduction in power loss due to bearing friction? We didn't even talk brand name, so I wasn't even aware that there are lots of different makers of BB30 bearings.

I haven't been able to find too much info online, but I have seen a few anecdotes that say the ceramics don't last as long.

qcpmsame 

The linked instruction addresses the cleaning procedure, those cups are supposed to be "bonded to the shell, per Cannondale. The lack of a proper bonding is why you get the creaking of the cups so many have experienced. Some have gotten away with not using the correct Loctite, up to each individual. LordLivingston needs to evaluate continuing to use a shop that is more concerned with selling him a ceramic bearing BB when it is pretty much a waste of money. Those power gain numbers for just switching to a ceramic bearing set are way off. His going to Cannnondale for a clarification of the warranty would be my path.

Bill

slynkie

Well ok it doesn't need loctite, just like you don't really need to properly torque bolts.

If you don't follow instructions, then yea I wouldn't expect your bearings to be quiet OR last long.

(FYI - I've got about 8000 miles on my CAAD10, with the original bearings.)

bikerjp

Agree about the shop.

Any link on the Cannondale specs using loctite? All I've ever seen from Cannondale is using loctite in an irregular shell - as in the linked instructions. I have two Cannondale bikes with BB30 and the bearings were not bonded when new and when replaced the shop mechanic was pretty adamant that using loctite was a bad idea. It may be necessary if there is a problem, but I'm not aware of anything saying it's required.

bikerjp

Please show me the instructions where it says you have to use loctite in the shell. The link above is referring to a fix for an irregular fit - which may be the case here. But I wouldn't read this to mean you always use loctite. Those instructions are also for Pressfit 30 and the caad uses BB30.

"The process described in this Tech Note can be used to install BB cups into Cannondale Pressfit 30 frames where irregular BB cup parts or frame shell surfaces are resulting in a partial press or slip fit."

slynkie

It's the conventional wisdom around here, so I'm not gonna spend time googling for you. I don't know if Cannondale's CAAD 10 instructions say anything about loctite, but if you spend a few minutes searching around, you'll find a consensus that proper loctite usage leads to quiet BB30 bearings. You don't need a lot of it, and proper application won't hamper removing the bearings later.

(If you have cannondale cranks then this applies -
https://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...plement_en.pdf)

bikerjp

Yes, it's often recommended as a fix for a problem, but that isn't the same as saying it's required or recommended by Cannondale in general which is what a few people were saying.

qcpmsame 

Slynkie,
You are reading more into the tech bulletin than Cannondale intended. I linked it because it is in the web site's area for technical assistance resuorces as a fix for a creaking BB or press fit set up. It isn't a requirement for warranty or other issues like that. Please don't make more of my reply than was intended, it is just a possible solution to a problem and has been successful for a lot of Cannondale owners. Bikerjp is right in his position about Loctite, even they say not to use their products as a panacea.

Bill

slynkie

Bill, due respect but your link was in reply to my post, so I wasn't basing anything on it. I think I'm being misinterpreted anyway, so...

I stand by my original statement. If you're trying to fix a creaky BB30, loctite is the best and cheapest way to do it. I'm sure it won't work for every frame/bearing set, but it works a lot better (and lasts a lot longer) than just regreasing, and if you use the right loctite and apply properly, you won't have any problem removing the bearings when you want to. If you try it and it doesn't work, you can always go buy new bearings at that point.

jdms mvp

felt like i needed slightly more stack so i swapped out the 9mm cap for a 15mm cane creek. feels good. #gettingold also wanted to showoff da sriracha jawnt!

qcpmsame 

+1, that seems to be the problem with those that haven't been shown how to properly use Loctite products. I use their website for choosing the correct Loctite product for the application, too many people use a red level agent and then strip out an expensive part trying to break the bond meant to be removed using heat or more torque than the part was designed for.

I do agree with your statement on being the best way for BB and PF 30 that are creaking to be properly installed or repaired, I just didn't want anyone to think I was stating that the tech doc was something that Cannondale was requiring for warranty compliance. If I seemed to be implying that you were disrespectful, I apologize, that certainly wasn't intended by me. Ride Lots.

Bill

slynkie

That looks great! I love the fulcrum zeros, and props for the G+D bottle