Time to renovate the old road bike, help & suggestions?
05-14-11, 08:45 AM
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Time to renovate the old road bike, help & suggestions?
Hi,
I have an old road bike (raleigh frame) with I guess original gearings, cassettes, chainset (They are so worn out so I can't see the model names) from somewhere in the 80's. It is in bad need of some renovation and I'll try to stay within a low budget.
Currently it's using a 52/41 chainset setup.. and a 6 speed rear cassette, the wheels are 700C.
Parts to be changed:
And these are the parts I'm planning:
And I'm unsure about the width between the rear dropouts, from outside to outside the dropouts I measured 130mm. But should I count from center to center of each dropout? In that case I most likely have a 126mm width and the WH-R500 wheel is 130mm between the locknuts. What do I do? Any suggestions of other parts?
I'm from Sweden so I have to order most of my stuff from europe because of the customs, usually through the UK: chainreactioncycles.com, wiggle.co.uk, amazon.co.uk and ebay.co.uk - Though I haven't found anything on amazon or ebay yet with cheaper total than the stores.
Any tips?
I have an old road bike (raleigh frame) with I guess original gearings, cassettes, chainset (They are so worn out so I can't see the model names) from somewhere in the 80's. It is in bad need of some renovation and I'll try to stay within a low budget.
Currently it's using a 52/41 chainset setup.. and a 6 speed rear cassette, the wheels are 700C.
Parts to be changed:
- Rear Wheel
- Cassette
- Chainset
- Front & Rear derailleurs
And these are the parts I'm planning:
- Rear Wheel: Shimano WH-R500
- Cassette: Shimano Tiagra, 9sp, HG50 (11-25)
- Chainset: Shimano 2300 (52/39, 170mm or 175mm?)
- Front derailleur: Shimano Tiagra, Double, 9sp, 4500
- Rear derailleur: Shimano 105, 5700 (difference between medium & short cage?)
And I'm unsure about the width between the rear dropouts, from outside to outside the dropouts I measured 130mm. But should I count from center to center of each dropout? In that case I most likely have a 126mm width and the WH-R500 wheel is 130mm between the locknuts. What do I do? Any suggestions of other parts?
I'm from Sweden so I have to order most of my stuff from europe because of the customs, usually through the UK: chainreactioncycles.com, wiggle.co.uk, amazon.co.uk and ebay.co.uk - Though I haven't found anything on amazon or ebay yet with cheaper total than the stores.
Any tips?
05-14-11, 09:09 AM
#2
Former Hoarder
Your rear is 126 but can be cold set to accommodate.
I think you'll need a new chain as well.
I think you'll need a new chain as well.
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05-14-11, 12:33 PM
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Cruise ebay for used component groups, I've seen Shimano Sora groups for $100 and up. Take a very close look at the photo's, you don't want to buy something that's all beat up. A bike shop in the US would charge you around $150 in labor to install such goodies. Since you're thinking of 105 and/or Tiagra level components, may I suggest you just go ahead and buy a new bike to be more cost effective? You may be able to get a substantial discount on a new 2010 or earlier year model. Good luck!
05-14-11, 12:48 PM
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Agreed. More cost effective to buy a new bike with components unless you have some attachment to the frame. Sell the old bike for what you can get for it.
05-17-11, 03:29 PM
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I have a new bike, for my long distance triathlon purposes a Felt S22 '10.
This is sort of a project for me to my brother so he will have a decent ride later this summer, I will use a sora front & rear derailleur instead - just for a lower budget.
The whole renovation will cost about $180-200 all in all, this includes new parts and a stylish paintjob (this is considered cheap where I live). About new bikes, it's nearly impossible to find racers for lower than $160, that's what my brother had to pay for this Raleigh with a Reynolds 501 frame. For any USED '05-'10 model I would have to pay around $650-$2300, that's the prices that set the standard here.
I ordered my Felt S22 from the UK for $1550 (brand new incl. delivery costs), the cheapest one I found in Sweden had a pricetag of $2600 (this is how it is with most of the bikes & pricings around here, same goes for running shoes..)
To the project:
I have stripped the bike, which wasn't the easiest task, for the record I broke 2 lockring tools getting the lockring up. Years of friction took its toll I guess, the fixed cup on the other side wasn't and easy task either. I don't own a 36mm spanner to solve the problem, so I used Sheldon Brown's technique where you use a bolt, a nut and a few plates and screw until friction does its work and takes the cup with it.
First attempt ended up with a thick steel nut becoming round, literally. So I managed to unscrew the whole rigg and take a new nut and do it all over again. This time after hanging on the spanner, the cup eventually unscrewed after enough friction from the bolt, nut & plates.
Now when all parts are loose I've started to grind away the old color of the frame with a wired wheel, done about half so far. By the weekend (hopefully) I will start with the paintjob which will be a matte black base with orange and maybe white stripes & details to it.
Cheers
This is sort of a project for me to my brother so he will have a decent ride later this summer, I will use a sora front & rear derailleur instead - just for a lower budget.
The whole renovation will cost about $180-200 all in all, this includes new parts and a stylish paintjob (this is considered cheap where I live). About new bikes, it's nearly impossible to find racers for lower than $160, that's what my brother had to pay for this Raleigh with a Reynolds 501 frame. For any USED '05-'10 model I would have to pay around $650-$2300, that's the prices that set the standard here.
I ordered my Felt S22 from the UK for $1550 (brand new incl. delivery costs), the cheapest one I found in Sweden had a pricetag of $2600 (this is how it is with most of the bikes & pricings around here, same goes for running shoes..)
To the project:
I have stripped the bike, which wasn't the easiest task, for the record I broke 2 lockring tools getting the lockring up. Years of friction took its toll I guess, the fixed cup on the other side wasn't and easy task either. I don't own a 36mm spanner to solve the problem, so I used Sheldon Brown's technique where you use a bolt, a nut and a few plates and screw until friction does its work and takes the cup with it.
First attempt ended up with a thick steel nut becoming round, literally. So I managed to unscrew the whole rigg and take a new nut and do it all over again. This time after hanging on the spanner, the cup eventually unscrewed after enough friction from the bolt, nut & plates.
Now when all parts are loose I've started to grind away the old color of the frame with a wired wheel, done about half so far. By the weekend (hopefully) I will start with the paintjob which will be a matte black base with orange and maybe white stripes & details to it.
Cheers
