Time to replace my chain - Shimano or KMC?
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Time to replace my chain - Shimano or KMC?
The last time (and also first time) I replaced a bike chain was a few months back on my MTB, which had a KMC 8-speed chain to begin with, with the KMC missing links, which I like. I replaced the worn chain with a new KMC chain and missing links.
Now my road bike is in need of a new 10-speed chain. I really like KMC with the Missing Links since I don't have to use a chain breaker on it. KMC has a large range of chains from about $20 on up to over $100. I'm really trying to not spend more than about $30-$40 on a chain.
A new Shimano Ultegra chain is available for $34 from Amazon. A KMC X10.93 chain is only $22. The weight difference is less than 20 grams. Amazon is offering the Ultegra chain together with the KMC missing links, which would make it about $45 total, whereas the KMC chain would come with a set of missing links already.
Thoughts? Also I just wanted to verify that the KMC Missing Links would indeed work with a Shimano chain.
*edit* at my current rate I'm putting over 3,000 miles a year on the bike, as I commute over 60 miles per week with it as well as any weekend rides. Not sure if that makes a difference on anything.
Now my road bike is in need of a new 10-speed chain. I really like KMC with the Missing Links since I don't have to use a chain breaker on it. KMC has a large range of chains from about $20 on up to over $100. I'm really trying to not spend more than about $30-$40 on a chain.
A new Shimano Ultegra chain is available for $34 from Amazon. A KMC X10.93 chain is only $22. The weight difference is less than 20 grams. Amazon is offering the Ultegra chain together with the KMC missing links, which would make it about $45 total, whereas the KMC chain would come with a set of missing links already.
Thoughts? Also I just wanted to verify that the KMC Missing Links would indeed work with a Shimano chain.
*edit* at my current rate I'm putting over 3,000 miles a year on the bike, as I commute over 60 miles per week with it as well as any weekend rides. Not sure if that makes a difference on anything.
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Yes that combo will work, but I'd just go with the KMC chain for half the price.
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Yea probably will do that. Also thinking of switching out my 105 11-28 cassette for an Ultegra 11-28 which is more than 40g lighter (my scale said 250g for my 105 cassette).
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As per the cassette, I'd say go for it if you want it. I ride a 12-25 6700 cassette (6700 equipped bike). I'm looking at picking up a new cassette for a possible new pair of hand built wheels, and will most likely go either 11-25, or 12-28 (I don't really need the 28 unless I go mid-compact chainrings - which I've also considered). Saving weight is your call. With 6700 cassettes coming in around $50 or less if you shop around, that's a solid 1 g/$ saved. To some people that means a lot, to others it means nothing. Personally, I'm on a quest to go sub-16 pounds with my bike, so 40g saved on the cassette (especially with the quality of that cassette) would be solid compared with g/$.
Just saying. Before more of the "get a haircut" or "go use the bathroom before you ride" posts get made.
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I put on a KMC x10sl and i'm quite happy with it.
edit - for the record, the shimano 5600 chain that came on my bike lasted about half the miles of my KMC (and still going strong) under the same maintenance intervals, granted n=1 but at this point I'll get another KMC next time.
edit - for the record, the shimano 5600 chain that came on my bike lasted about half the miles of my KMC (and still going strong) under the same maintenance intervals, granted n=1 but at this point I'll get another KMC next time.
Last edited by bonz50; 10-16-13 at 12:17 PM.
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Shimano advertising specifically says that their chains are optimized for flawless shifting on their drive trains, and they even stamp little x's in the pin link plate. How can you turn that down for, even at 3 or 4 times the price? Marketing isn't cheap.
Granted, I have used KMC chains on all sorts of drive trains with no issues, but their marketing blows monkey chunks.
Granted, I have used KMC chains on all sorts of drive trains with no issues, but their marketing blows monkey chunks.
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I went from an X10.93 to a Shimano 5701 105 chain and it seems to be a little quieter. That was a brand new chain compared to a worn out X10.93 though. The UK suppliers have the Shimano chains for pretty cheap so I'd stock up on chains if you order tires from them.
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+1 for KMC and long wear. The finish goes to hell quickly but the chain rolls on.
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Here's some data on chains:
https://www.tour-magazin.de/services/qtr/epaper_4_2011/page45.html
I stick with the DuraAce chains.
https://www.tour-magazin.de/services/qtr/epaper_4_2011/page45.html
I stick with the DuraAce chains.
#13
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Ultegra chains are only a few dollars more than comparable KMC chains and I've never had one fail. Also, they last a long, long time. I'm sure KMC is great, but I personally don't see any reason to try something new.
#14
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I run KMC and Shimano. I've had a KMC X10.93 fail on 3 links whereas the X10.SLs have been flawless and last well. I've used Dura Ace, 105 and Ultegra and they're all fine except the finish is a bit dull. If you want a nice shiny (and expensive) chain go for an X10.SL in silver, but the Shimano ones are fine if you're not concerned about looks.
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Saving weight is your call. With 6700 cassettes coming in around $50 or less if you shop around, that's a solid 1 g/$ saved. To some people that means a lot, to others it means nothing. Personally, I'm on a quest to go sub-16 pounds with my bike, so 40g saved on the cassette (especially with the quality of that cassette) would be solid compared with g/$.
Just saying. Before more of the "get a haircut" or "go use the bathroom before you ride" posts get made.
Just saying. Before more of the "get a haircut" or "go use the bathroom before you ride" posts get made.
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Besides, saving 40 grams on a cassette is a permanent change, at least until it is time to replace the cassette. Using the bathroom pre-ride will only save a person several grams for a few hours at most.
I just believe people should be able to spend their money on their bikes how they want. I would be intrigued to know my weight in grams. I don't dabble to much with the metric system, although I try to, but I do make my coffee using the metric system. I'm convinced it tastes better that way.
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Shimano advertising specifically says that their chains are optimized for flawless shifting on their drive trains, and they even stamp little x's in the pin link plate. How can you turn that down for, even at 3 or 4 times the price? Marketing isn't cheap.
Granted, I have used KMC chains on all sorts of drive trains with no issues, but their marketing blows monkey chunks.
Granted, I have used KMC chains on all sorts of drive trains with no issues, but their marketing blows monkey chunks.
Would like to replace the whole crankset with a Shimano 105 or better crankset and probably an Ultegra BB, but that will be probably some time next year.
As for the finish I actually prefer a darker chain finish, so it won't bother me if the "shiny" on the KMC chain wears off.
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I've got many thousands of miles on KMC chains and have never had a problem. That said, I just picked up a couple ultegra chains at PBk for $23 each, which is less than I paid for the last batch of KMC's I bought. I've got a bunch of the KMC linky things which I'll use with ultegra's. It all works, I generally shop by price except I don't care for SRAM chains and they tend to be pricey anyway.
#19
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Isn't KMC the OEM for all 3 brands anyway? (SRAM, Shimano, KMC)
I just swapped a X10SL for an ultegra chain that I got on chainlove for $24 (I do that about every 1,000 miles, so the KCM will go back on) and I really liked the KMC - it was nice and quiet. I have no complaints about the ultegra chain so far either, it's simlarly quiet.
They're consumables - just pick one.
20 grams... meh.
I just swapped a X10SL for an ultegra chain that I got on chainlove for $24 (I do that about every 1,000 miles, so the KCM will go back on) and I really liked the KMC - it was nice and quiet. I have no complaints about the ultegra chain so far either, it's simlarly quiet.
They're consumables - just pick one.
20 grams... meh.
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I use kmc 10sl on mtb and road work smoothly and guieter. Soon I upgrade both using kmc dlc
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True, but I'm 195#, and I do plenty of sprinting, climbing, etc., and I'm over 5000 miles on my current chain and still just shy of 1/16" stretch/wear in 12" of chain. I'm not in a really wet climate so that may be a contributing factor, but one thing that has really increased my chain life is switching from ProLink to Rock-n-Roll Gold lube. I know, I know I never thought a lube made that much difference either, but this one sure has. I used to get about 2500 to 3000 miles per chain (that's about 3 chains per year for me). Used according to lube mfrs. instructions my drive train stays a lot cleaner too.
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Tour Magazin did a big test on chains some time ago. https://www.tour-magazin.de/services/...11/page45.html
I run a 105 5701 currently and it's one of the most smooth shifting chains i've had.
Earlier i used to run Dura Ace chains and KMC, but honestly i don't see a reason for paying that much for a chain agan. The 105 does the trick, and very well too.
Edit: Link already posted. But there's some good data in there.
I run a 105 5701 currently and it's one of the most smooth shifting chains i've had.
Earlier i used to run Dura Ace chains and KMC, but honestly i don't see a reason for paying that much for a chain agan. The 105 does the trick, and very well too.
Edit: Link already posted. But there's some good data in there.
Last edited by psee; 10-17-13 at 01:11 AM.
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I'm interested to hear the verdict on which chain to go with. I'm considering going for a KMC next chain.
As per the cassette, I'd say go for it if you want it. I ride a 12-25 6700 cassette (6700 equipped bike). I'm looking at picking up a new cassette for a possible new pair of hand built wheels, and will most likely go either 11-25, or 12-28 (I don't really need the 28 unless I go mid-compact chainrings - which I've also considered). Saving weight is your call. With 6700 cassettes coming in around $50 or less if you shop around, that's a solid 1 g/$ saved. To some people that means a lot, to others it means nothing. Personally, I'm on a quest to go sub-16 pounds with my bike, so 40g saved on the cassette (especially with the quality of that cassette) would be solid compared with g/$.
Just saying. Before more of the "get a haircut" or "go use the bathroom before you ride" posts get made.
As per the cassette, I'd say go for it if you want it. I ride a 12-25 6700 cassette (6700 equipped bike). I'm looking at picking up a new cassette for a possible new pair of hand built wheels, and will most likely go either 11-25, or 12-28 (I don't really need the 28 unless I go mid-compact chainrings - which I've also considered). Saving weight is your call. With 6700 cassettes coming in around $50 or less if you shop around, that's a solid 1 g/$ saved. To some people that means a lot, to others it means nothing. Personally, I'm on a quest to go sub-16 pounds with my bike, so 40g saved on the cassette (especially with the quality of that cassette) would be solid compared with g/$.
Just saying. Before more of the "get a haircut" or "go use the bathroom before you ride" posts get made.
Sheesh.
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I just believe people should be able to spend their money on their bikes how they want. I would be intrigued to know my weight in grams. I don't dabble to much with the metric system, although I try to, but I do make my coffee using the metric system. I'm convinced it tastes better that way.
Just as an example, though, my 158 lbs translates into 72,000 grams. When you consider how many multiples of 40 grams that is, even spending $1 for each one shed doesn't sound like a good deal at all. At least to me.