Bike Choice Issue
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Bike Choice Issue
2015 brings me the fortune of buying a new road bike. I've had a few bikes that I would classify as entry level to mid range and now am looking for something that would slot into used higher end, be strictly a road bike (opposed to the possibility of a use as a commuter as done previously) and allow me the opportunity to grow into.
I currently get 1-3 rides per week averaging 20-40km on my singlespeed and would like to move to something that I could put in good saddle time.
Comfortable on 54 or 56cm, 5'10.5" 30" inseam, long torso. Done research would like your input.
I've narrowed my choices of bikes down to a shortlist from what is available on the used market locally:
1) Focus Izalco Pro 3.0
Sram Force group (10 speed)
DT Swiss R 1850 wheels
Continental Grand Prix tires
Prologo saddle
FSA alloy seat post
FSA Team Issue 100mm carbon stem
FSA alloy compact 42 cm handlebars
$1625 (asking $1875)
2) 2010 Cannondale CAAD9 56cm
Full Dura Ace group (10 speed)
FSA SL-K crank
Shimano RS-80 wheels
$1400 (asking $1800)
3) 2012 Wilier Izoard XP carbon 55cm
Ultegra group (10 speed)
Ultegra wheels
Willier/fsa crank, bar, stem, post, seat
$1500 firm
TL;DR:
Choice of 3 bikes, all local, all very good + condition. All prices are best price I can get.
Currently get 1-3 rides/week 20-40km. I'd like to up this. 5'10.5" 30" inseam long torso. Comfortable on both 54/56cm.
I'm leaning towards Focus but would like your imput please.
Thank you.
I currently get 1-3 rides per week averaging 20-40km on my singlespeed and would like to move to something that I could put in good saddle time.
Comfortable on 54 or 56cm, 5'10.5" 30" inseam, long torso. Done research would like your input.
I've narrowed my choices of bikes down to a shortlist from what is available on the used market locally:
1) Focus Izalco Pro 3.0
Sram Force group (10 speed)
DT Swiss R 1850 wheels
Continental Grand Prix tires
Prologo saddle
FSA alloy seat post
FSA Team Issue 100mm carbon stem
FSA alloy compact 42 cm handlebars
$1625 (asking $1875)
2) 2010 Cannondale CAAD9 56cm
Full Dura Ace group (10 speed)
FSA SL-K crank
Shimano RS-80 wheels
$1400 (asking $1800)
3) 2012 Wilier Izoard XP carbon 55cm
Ultegra group (10 speed)
Ultegra wheels
Willier/fsa crank, bar, stem, post, seat
$1500 firm
TL;DR:
Choice of 3 bikes, all local, all very good + condition. All prices are best price I can get.
Currently get 1-3 rides/week 20-40km. I'd like to up this. 5'10.5" 30" inseam long torso. Comfortable on both 54/56cm.
I'm leaning towards Focus but would like your imput please.
Thank you.
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For pricing help, you can look for similar competed listings on eBay or use www.bicyclebluebook.com
All three bikes listed look like they'll be good bikes. Most bikes from established bike companies are decent. Maybe take a look in person and choose the one in best shape. Failing that, pick the one that looks nicest to you.
All three bikes listed look like they'll be good bikes. Most bikes from established bike companies are decent. Maybe take a look in person and choose the one in best shape. Failing that, pick the one that looks nicest to you.
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2015 brings me the fortune of buying a new road bike. I've had a few bikes that I would classify as entry level to mid range and now am looking for something that would slot into used higher end, be strictly a road bike (opposed to the possibility of a use as a commuter as done previously) and allow me the opportunity to grow into.
I currently get 1-3 rides per week averaging 20-40km on my singlespeed and would like to move to something that I could put in good saddle time.
Comfortable on 54 or 56cm, 5'10.5" 30" inseam, long torso. Done research would like your input.
I've narrowed my choices of bikes down to a shortlist from what is available on the used market locally:
1) Focus Izalco Pro 3.0
Sram Force group (10 speed)
DT Swiss R 1850 wheels
Continental Grand Prix tires
Prologo saddle
FSA alloy seat post
FSA Team Issue 100mm carbon stem
FSA alloy compact 42 cm handlebars
$1625 (asking $1875)
2) 2010 Cannondale CAAD9 56cm
Full Dura Ace group (10 speed)
FSA SL-K crank
Shimano RS-80 wheels
$1400 (asking $1800)
3) 2012 Wilier Izoard XP carbon 55cm
Ultegra group (10 speed)
Ultegra wheels
Willier/fsa crank, bar, stem, post, seat
$1500 firm
TL;DR:
Choice of 3 bikes, all local, all very good + condition. All prices are best price I can get.
Currently get 1-3 rides/week 20-40km. I'd like to up this. 5'10.5" 30" inseam long torso. Comfortable on both 54/56cm.
I'm leaning towards Focus but would like your imput please.
Thank you.
I currently get 1-3 rides per week averaging 20-40km on my singlespeed and would like to move to something that I could put in good saddle time.
Comfortable on 54 or 56cm, 5'10.5" 30" inseam, long torso. Done research would like your input.
I've narrowed my choices of bikes down to a shortlist from what is available on the used market locally:
1) Focus Izalco Pro 3.0
Sram Force group (10 speed)
DT Swiss R 1850 wheels
Continental Grand Prix tires
Prologo saddle
FSA alloy seat post
FSA Team Issue 100mm carbon stem
FSA alloy compact 42 cm handlebars
$1625 (asking $1875)
2) 2010 Cannondale CAAD9 56cm
Full Dura Ace group (10 speed)
FSA SL-K crank
Shimano RS-80 wheels
$1400 (asking $1800)
3) 2012 Wilier Izoard XP carbon 55cm
Ultegra group (10 speed)
Ultegra wheels
Willier/fsa crank, bar, stem, post, seat
$1500 firm
TL;DR:
Choice of 3 bikes, all local, all very good + condition. All prices are best price I can get.
Currently get 1-3 rides/week 20-40km. I'd like to up this. 5'10.5" 30" inseam long torso. Comfortable on both 54/56cm.
I'm leaning towards Focus but would like your imput please.
Thank you.
I think you may outgrow a 10-speed group. In any case my reasons against number 1) I don't like Focus bikes. I find their brand to be flashy with less substance. I think the Sram Force groupset is more suited to cyclo-cross type endeavors, and for performance sake, an Ultegra group is more suited.
With the Cannondale they used an FSA crank instead of keeping a full groupset, and the bike is already 4+ years old. I would want a full brand group with a bike. That being said, I just re-read your post and noted that the Wilier has a Wilier/FSA crank. Im not sure what this means, could you elaborate?
-BigRed
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Thank you for your responses.
BigRed, I understand where you are coming from regarding buying new. I would love to but I simply do not have the means. For my budget a new bike puts me at the just barely the 105/Rival groupset + lower end frames and I want more.
I test road a '12 focus in '14 and a friend has the same CAAD9 that I rode a while ago, which isnt saying much. I don't have another option as there is 2 feet of snow on the ground outside.
I believe it is a partnership between FSA and Wilier.
I will do a search on 10sp vs 11sp but could you provide some insight as to how I'd outgrow a 10sp? I've only ridden 9sp and 10sp in my life though I do know that the industry has shifted to 11.
Is it simply less big gear shifting and more gears (22 vs 20)?
Your help is much appreciated.
BigRed, I understand where you are coming from regarding buying new. I would love to but I simply do not have the means. For my budget a new bike puts me at the just barely the 105/Rival groupset + lower end frames and I want more.
I test road a '12 focus in '14 and a friend has the same CAAD9 that I rode a while ago, which isnt saying much. I don't have another option as there is 2 feet of snow on the ground outside.
I believe it is a partnership between FSA and Wilier.
I will do a search on 10sp vs 11sp but could you provide some insight as to how I'd outgrow a 10sp? I've only ridden 9sp and 10sp in my life though I do know that the industry has shifted to 11.
Is it simply less big gear shifting and more gears (22 vs 20)?
Your help is much appreciated.
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They all sound like fine bikes. Get the one which excites you the most; the one you will love to ride and look at; and the one that feels/fits the best.
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I think you may outgrow a 10-speed group. In any case my reasons against number 1) I don't like Focus bikes. I find their brand to be flashy with less substance. I think the Sram Force groupset is more suited to cyclo-cross type endeavors, and for performance sake, an Ultegra group is more suited.
With the Cannondale they used an FSA crank instead of keeping a full groupset, and the bike is already 4+ years old. I would want a full brand group with a bike. That being said, I just re-read your post and noted that the Wilier has a Wilier/FSA crank. Im not sure what this means, could you elaborate?
With the Cannondale they used an FSA crank instead of keeping a full groupset, and the bike is already 4+ years old. I would want a full brand group with a bike. That being said, I just re-read your post and noted that the Wilier has a Wilier/FSA crank. Im not sure what this means, could you elaborate?
Normally, I wouldn't respond, but there is a lot of misinformation here.
You don't "outgrow" a 10 speed groupset -- that's just the number of cogs in the cassette. Many hardcore cyclists would argue that you typically only use about 7 to 8 of them, and many people feel that 9 speed Dura-Ace was the best ever shifting groupset. More cogs only mean that you can stay in the same narrow pedaling cadence range over a larger range of paces, or you can add in one more lower bail-out gear because you're not strong enough to climb a particular hill on your ride. Eddy Merckx won 5 Tour de France overall with a 5 speed bike, riding faster than anybody on the forum could with today's 11 speed bikes.
Focus is "flashy with less substance"? They are German engineered and don't seem to market their bikes any differently from most bike brands.
"Sram Force groupset is more suited to cyclo-cross"?!? You realize that Sram Force was originally designed as Sram's top of the line road group to compete as an equivalent to Shimano Dura-Ace and Campy Record/Super Record, don't you? It has nothing to do with CX.
"Cannondale... used an FSA crank instead of keeping a full groupset... I would want a full brand group with a bike." You realize that that bike has a BB30 bottom bracket shell, and Shimano does NOT make BB30 cranks, right? Since FSA does make BB30 cranks, that is why that is spec'ed with the bike. You can only run a Shimano crank in BB30 shell if you run an adapter, and many people feel that you give up the advantage of the stiffer crank spindle if you do that (Shimano and others would argue that a 24 mm spindle is as stiff as you ever need, there is more deflection at the BB shell than in the crank spindle). Since Cannondale introduced the BB30 concept, they prefer to spec a bike with a BB30 crank so they don't give ammo to the naysayers. If they supplied all their Shimano bikes with Shimano cranks, it would basically be admitting that BB30 has no advantage over a threaded BB.
The Wilier/FSA crank is simply an FSA crank that is branded with a Wilier logo. Also to nitpick, some people may disagree that "Wilier makes outstanding bikes" as Wilier frames are made in Taiwan (there may also be some made in China, I'm not sure). However, this is true of all 3 of the bikes the OP mentioned, all made under contract in Asian factories for the particular bike company. If you want a bike frame made by the bike company, you're looking either at small boutique brands/builders or at the larger company sizes, companies like Time, Look, and some companies that make their highest level frames in house (like BMC Impec, Trek Madone 7 or whatever the highest number is now).
I do agree there are some advantages to buying new over used. However, you can also get a lot of bang for your buck if you get a well-kept used bike.
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Go for the Focus or the Willier (my personal preference is toward the full shimano group, but that's just preference/bias). Dura ace is nice stuff, but you can always upgrade the other bikes, especially the willier, to DA for relatively cheap- you can't upgrade an old aluminum frame to carbon easily.
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Thanks for the extensive reply milkbaby it cleared a lot up for me. I'm thinking it's the Focus is the one it gives me that warm fuzzy feeling inside - probably because it reminds me of Darth Vader.
Good points Raiden, I didn't really consider future-upgradability
Good points Raiden, I didn't really consider future-upgradability
Last edited by Scopes; 01-07-15 at 04:15 PM. Reason: spelling
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I think the 2012 Izoard forks were recalled so you would want to make sure the forks were changed out.
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i have a Focus and love it.
are they made in Asia? i could not find any info it. i see that large "made in taiwan" sticker on MANY frames in the 1-3k range. i was curious if Focus were actually made in germany.
are they made in Asia? i could not find any info it. i see that large "made in taiwan" sticker on MANY frames in the 1-3k range. i was curious if Focus were actually made in germany.
#11
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You mentioned you wanted more than 105, and that is fine, but if that picture of the Willier crank is from the actual bike you are looking at, it may have an Ultegra rear derailleur, but the front is two steps down from that. For what it's worth, I've noticed a much greater difference in shift quality between groups on the front than on the rear.
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You mentioned you wanted more than 105, and that is fine, but if that picture of the Willier crank is from the actual bike you are looking at, it may have an Ultegra rear derailleur, but the front is two steps down from that. For what it's worth, I've noticed a much greater difference in shift quality between groups on the front than on the rear.
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Very true! I have 9-speed DA on my Klein......and to me, it is the height of perfection; and is also aesthetically nicer than the much newer Ultegra on my late-model Spesh..
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2015 brings me the fortune of buying a new road bike. I've had a few bikes that I would classify as entry level to mid range and now am looking for something that would slot into used higher end, be strictly a road bike (opposed to the possibility of a use as a commuter as done previously) and allow me the opportunity to grow into.
I currently get 1-3 rides per week averaging 20-40km on my singlespeed and would like to move to something that I could put in good saddle time.
Comfortable on 54 or 56cm, 5'10.5" 30" inseam, long torso. Done research would like your input.
I've narrowed my choices of bikes down to a shortlist from what is available on the used market locally:
1) Focus Izalco Pro 3.0
Sram Force group (10 speed)
DT Swiss R 1850 wheels
Continental Grand Prix tires
Prologo saddle
FSA alloy seat post
FSA Team Issue 100mm carbon stem
FSA alloy compact 42 cm handlebars
$1625 (asking $1875)
2) 2010 Cannondale CAAD9 56cm
Full Dura Ace group (10 speed)
FSA SL-K crank
Shimano RS-80 wheels
$1400 (asking $1800)
3) 2012 Wilier Izoard XP carbon 55cm
Ultegra group (10 speed)
Ultegra wheels
Willier/fsa crank, bar, stem, post, seat
$1500 firm
TL;DR:
Choice of 3 bikes, all local, all very good + condition. All prices are best price I can get.
Currently get 1-3 rides/week 20-40km. I'd like to up this. 5'10.5" 30" inseam long torso. Comfortable on both 54/56cm.
I'm leaning towards Focus but would like your imput please.
Thank you.
I currently get 1-3 rides per week averaging 20-40km on my singlespeed and would like to move to something that I could put in good saddle time.
Comfortable on 54 or 56cm, 5'10.5" 30" inseam, long torso. Done research would like your input.
I've narrowed my choices of bikes down to a shortlist from what is available on the used market locally:
1) Focus Izalco Pro 3.0
Sram Force group (10 speed)
DT Swiss R 1850 wheels
Continental Grand Prix tires
Prologo saddle
FSA alloy seat post
FSA Team Issue 100mm carbon stem
FSA alloy compact 42 cm handlebars
$1625 (asking $1875)
2) 2010 Cannondale CAAD9 56cm
Full Dura Ace group (10 speed)
FSA SL-K crank
Shimano RS-80 wheels
$1400 (asking $1800)
3) 2012 Wilier Izoard XP carbon 55cm
Ultegra group (10 speed)
Ultegra wheels
Willier/fsa crank, bar, stem, post, seat
$1500 firm
TL;DR:
Choice of 3 bikes, all local, all very good + condition. All prices are best price I can get.
Currently get 1-3 rides/week 20-40km. I'd like to up this. 5'10.5" 30" inseam long torso. Comfortable on both 54/56cm.
I'm leaning towards Focus but would like your imput please.
Thank you.
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You didn't mention whether you test rode any of the bikes or not. Test riding each bike will help you to sort out your preferences very quickly. Also, once you decide on a bike, ask the seller if they are willing to take the bike to a bike shop for an inspection, at their cost.
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Dunno, if someone is buying a used bike from me, and trying to talk me down on the price (as it seems you've done on a couple of the bikes), I expect them to know what they're looking at and know if they like it after a brief test ride. However, the whole 'can't test ride it because we're buried in snow' thing is a wrinkle I've never had to deal with.
If my bike is going anywhere, I'm going with it, and it's hard to find bankers hours to meet at a bike shop. Also, if my potential buyer were to use the bike shop's information as a wedge to try to lower the price below a previously agreed amount, I would be very very unhappy. It would be an accusation that my ad was dishonest in some great way- I'm very thorough when I sell something. An accusation from someone who doesn't know this stuff himself. If it was genuinely a second opinion for peace of mind, then so be it.
Do you have any cycling friends/coworkers that could accompany you to a sale or look over your ads? Would you post the ads here? Consider searching on youtube for obvious things like 'how to buy a used bike' for tips to check a bike out without riding it.
If that's a picture of the Willier in its current condition, it is barely ridden... however the picture has a Tiagra derailer, which I've never seen on a factory stock bike labelled as an Ultegra build.
If my bike is going anywhere, I'm going with it, and it's hard to find bankers hours to meet at a bike shop. Also, if my potential buyer were to use the bike shop's information as a wedge to try to lower the price below a previously agreed amount, I would be very very unhappy. It would be an accusation that my ad was dishonest in some great way- I'm very thorough when I sell something. An accusation from someone who doesn't know this stuff himself. If it was genuinely a second opinion for peace of mind, then so be it.
Do you have any cycling friends/coworkers that could accompany you to a sale or look over your ads? Would you post the ads here? Consider searching on youtube for obvious things like 'how to buy a used bike' for tips to check a bike out without riding it.
If that's a picture of the Willier in its current condition, it is barely ridden... however the picture has a Tiagra derailer, which I've never seen on a factory stock bike labelled as an Ultegra build.
Last edited by Raiden; 01-07-15 at 09:10 PM.
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If the seller is conscientious, they will mention that the bike has been checked over and inspected recently by a good bike shop. If the buyer is conscientious, they will ask the buyer to have it inspected by a good bike shop.
$1.5K ain't chump change, mayn.
$1.5K ain't chump change, mayn.
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I understand the buyer being conscientious by getting a second opinion, but haggling down a price and THEN needing to set up a big meeting of indeterminate length during the business day to decide if he's going to buy the item is poor form in my book. If he (or he and a friend or whatever) can't come look at the item and establish its value on their own, why do they deserve to haggle?
Last edited by Raiden; 01-07-15 at 09:52 PM.
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I'm amazed by the calibre of help a guy can get when he reaches out and asks.
I have experience with off-road bikes but road bikes are something that is new to me - the brands especially. I have experience with cannondales though know little to nothing about focus and wilier as companies other than what google can tell me.
My biggest concerns were that like mentioned above there was a recall or known issue with one of my choices. I would like to believe I'm getting a clean and clear bike but can appreciate that not everyone out there is that decent. You're right - a shop visit is the best call, but I'm confident that any of the bikes would be in as spoken for condition.
Is it weird to show up with rollers?
Going to sleep on it then confirm with the focus for purchase in the morning if I don't have any negative thoughts. I feel like it is the bike that makes me want to ride the most.
I have experience with off-road bikes but road bikes are something that is new to me - the brands especially. I have experience with cannondales though know little to nothing about focus and wilier as companies other than what google can tell me.
My biggest concerns were that like mentioned above there was a recall or known issue with one of my choices. I would like to believe I'm getting a clean and clear bike but can appreciate that not everyone out there is that decent. You're right - a shop visit is the best call, but I'm confident that any of the bikes would be in as spoken for condition.
Is it weird to show up with rollers?
Going to sleep on it then confirm with the focus for purchase in the morning if I don't have any negative thoughts. I feel like it is the bike that makes me want to ride the most.
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FYI you can get a brand new Caad10 for around 1600 and current 5800 is pretty dang good.
edit: 1680 before taxes. My area would be 1740ish after taxes. Which with the small difference in price you might as well go for a new one.
Last edited by Team Sarcasm; 01-07-15 at 11:09 PM.
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I appreciate the recommendations newbie101 and Team Sarcasm, but I think I'll be happier long run with the Focus.
I looked at the CAAD10 and I want something better than 105 as mentioned before - I know I'm going used over new but it'll keep me from having to upgrade in the future as well as keep me on budget.
I emailed the seller this morning to confirm I'd buy his bike - I'm waiting for his response to see if I can get it Friday night or Saturday morning.
Obviously I'll do a thorough checkthrough. Can you guys recommend any tips for checking over a carbon bike (aside from the glaring possible defects)?
Thank you all for your help
I looked at the CAAD10 and I want something better than 105 as mentioned before - I know I'm going used over new but it'll keep me from having to upgrade in the future as well as keep me on budget.
I emailed the seller this morning to confirm I'd buy his bike - I'm waiting for his response to see if I can get it Friday night or Saturday morning.
Obviously I'll do a thorough checkthrough. Can you guys recommend any tips for checking over a carbon bike (aside from the glaring possible defects)?
Thank you all for your help
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This looks pretty good: Workshop: What to watch for when buying a used carbon frame - BikeRadar