how do I determine the correct chain length?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 963
Likes: 2
From: Orange County CA
Bikes: Surly CC, Raleigh Team Pro, Specialized Rockhopper with an xtracycle
how do I determine the correct chain length?
I've looked through the Shimano Technical documents and it states the chain should be on the largest chainring and smallest cog in order to determine the length. Next, it mentions that the pulleys should be perpendicular to the ground. What i'm not sure about is if the pulleys and the center of the freewheel all have to line up to perpendicular or is it only the two pulleys that need to line up and be perpendicular?
I have a double setup..105 front, ultegra rear, 9 speed chain...if that makes any difference.
I have a double setup..105 front, ultegra rear, 9 speed chain...if that makes any difference.
#2
run the chain around the large chainring, and the largest cog (dont run it through the rear derailleur yet)
then add 2 links (some people only add one link, but ONE time I came out with a chain that was too short, so I add two links)
Then seperate the chain there.
Run it through the derailleurs, and you should be good to go.
then add 2 links (some people only add one link, but ONE time I came out with a chain that was too short, so I add two links)
Then seperate the chain there.
Run it through the derailleurs, and you should be good to go.
Last edited by FlatFender; 10-14-07 at 11:51 PM.
#4
Road Runner

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 46
From: Rochester Hills, MI
Bikes: 2017 Felt VR5, 2013 Specialized Crosstrail, 2020 Specialized Vado 4.0
The Park Tool site has a good section on this. They recommend the same method as the above two posts, and also have a way to calculate the length using the number of teeth on the largest ring and cog, and the distance from the crank axis to the rear axle.
I'm working on installing a new drivetrain, including the chain of course, so just for fun I'll see how the calculation compares to the fit + 2 method.
I'm working on installing a new drivetrain, including the chain of course, so just for fun I'll see how the calculation compares to the fit + 2 method.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
run the chain around the large chainring, and the largest cog (dont run it through the rear derailleur yet)
then add 2 links (some people only add one link, but ONE time I came out with a chain that was too short, so I add two links)
Then seperate the chain there.
Run it through the derailleurs, and you should be good to go.
then add 2 links (some people only add one link, but ONE time I came out with a chain that was too short, so I add two links)
Then seperate the chain there.
Run it through the derailleurs, and you should be good to go.
#6
Banned.
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,016
Likes: 1
From: Home alone
Bikes: Trek 4300 X 2. Trek 1000, Trek 6000
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
The Shimano method works but assumes you are within their published tooth differences and total teeth ranges for the rear derailleur, chainrings and cassette. If you take any liberties with these recommendations, the chain maybe too short.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,392
Likes: 2
From: Central Coast, CA
Bikes: Surly LHT, Specialized Rockhopper, Nashbar Touring (old), Specialized Stumpjumper (older), Nishiki Tourer (model unknown)
I used Sheldon Brown's article in combination with the Park site. One thing I found - chain links either have the metal faces on the outside or the inside. (I'm not sure if I've got my terminology straight, but look at a chain and, hopefully, you'll see what I'm talking about.) An "outer link" has to connect to an "inner link". Therefore, sometimes you might have to add or subtract a link to your "perfect length" to make this come out right. All I know is that I installed two chains this summer using these sites, and both bikes work fine. It wasn't that tough.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
#10
Elitist Troglodyte
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,926
Likes: 3
From: Dallas
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
IMO the Shimano method is at least as good as the "big-big" method, but isn't as easy to use perform.
__________________
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?
- Will Rogers
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?
- Will Rogers
#11
Elitist Troglodyte
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,926
Likes: 3
From: Dallas
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
Conversely, it may be too long. No method can accommodate a wrongly sized dérailleur. The Shimano method at least centers the arm range to minimize the effects at either end.
__________________
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?
- Will Rogers
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?
- Will Rogers
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 963
Likes: 2
From: Orange County CA
Bikes: Surly CC, Raleigh Team Pro, Specialized Rockhopper with an xtracycle
thanks to all that replied. I ended up going the shimano perpendicular method. All is well...so far..
..now about this b-setting thing???....
..now about this b-setting thing???....
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Too short can lead to catastrophic damage so if there has to be a choice, other than perfect, go with too long.
BTW, big-big+2 will give you the proper chain length if you are within the recommended tooth count for your rear derailleur and will allow you to use small-small without the chain going completely slack.





