Do you change OEM tires when new?
#1
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Do you change OEM tires when new?
My new Specialized Roubaix came with "Specialized All Condition, 700x23c, wire bead, 60TPI, w/ Flak Jacket protection"
When you guys buy a new bike do you change the tires immediately to something better or do you run the tires until the wear out?
I am thinking of replacing the tires with the Conti 4000S (with Black Chili).
Do you think I will notice a big difference in ride?
When you guys buy a new bike do you change the tires immediately to something better or do you run the tires until the wear out?
I am thinking of replacing the tires with the Conti 4000S (with Black Chili).
Do you think I will notice a big difference in ride?
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I think you will be able to feel a difference, but I don't know how big it will be.
I tend to change tires for sportives and Brevets.
But for training and everyday use, I would keep the Spec. tires on and noly change when they are worn or
you feel you need " that little extra"
I tend to change tires for sportives and Brevets.
But for training and everyday use, I would keep the Spec. tires on and noly change when they are worn or
you feel you need " that little extra"
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Will it take a 25c?
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All things being equal, the larger tire rides better.
Right now I am on 32c and next year will be on a 40c.
Saves a lot of wear and tear on the bod.
Right now I am on 32c and next year will be on a 40c.
Saves a lot of wear and tear on the bod.
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Usually, but by the time I buy my next bike I should have at least three or four sets of compatible wheels so I might not need too.
I haven't rode a specialized tire since I bought a specialized allez in 1992. That being said and not specifically knowing the quality of the Spec tire I can say you will definitely notice an improvement riding GP4000's.
If I found the right specs for the All Conditions OEM tire you should save an approximate total of 226 grams of rotating weight. Even if this were dead weight that is a per gram cost of about 50 cents. Quite possibly this is the cheapest half pound you will ever save and it is compounded by being the most rotating of rotating weight.
When I switched to GP4000s a few years ago from a wire bead Bontranger Race lites I noticed a huge difference in how much faster and lighter the wheel felt. It truly was night and day.
GP4000s are among the best clinchers you can buy. They will wear faster than sturdier training tires but you should get at least 5,000km out of them. Puncture resistance is good. I went well over 2000km before a puncture. Avoid the big angled nails (weird one for me) and keep them free of glass and they may very well go a season or two without a flat.
Here is a good comparative look at several quality clinchers and tubs
https://www.conti-online.com/generato...gp4000s_en.pdf
Late hinted at 25mm's. The Grand Prix 4 Season may be worth looking at if you feel you need to go wider. I would expect your Roubaix to take up to the 28mm no problem since the pro's are riding tires that wide on Roubaix frames and forks during Paris-Roubaix.
I haven't rode a specialized tire since I bought a specialized allez in 1992. That being said and not specifically knowing the quality of the Spec tire I can say you will definitely notice an improvement riding GP4000's.
If I found the right specs for the All Conditions OEM tire you should save an approximate total of 226 grams of rotating weight. Even if this were dead weight that is a per gram cost of about 50 cents. Quite possibly this is the cheapest half pound you will ever save and it is compounded by being the most rotating of rotating weight.
When I switched to GP4000s a few years ago from a wire bead Bontranger Race lites I noticed a huge difference in how much faster and lighter the wheel felt. It truly was night and day.
GP4000s are among the best clinchers you can buy. They will wear faster than sturdier training tires but you should get at least 5,000km out of them. Puncture resistance is good. I went well over 2000km before a puncture. Avoid the big angled nails (weird one for me) and keep them free of glass and they may very well go a season or two without a flat.
Here is a good comparative look at several quality clinchers and tubs
https://www.conti-online.com/generato...gp4000s_en.pdf
Late hinted at 25mm's. The Grand Prix 4 Season may be worth looking at if you feel you need to go wider. I would expect your Roubaix to take up to the 28mm no problem since the pro's are riding tires that wide on Roubaix frames and forks during Paris-Roubaix.
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Depends or how you define better. When you go from 23mm to 32mm not much is equal anymore.
I ride 23mm GP4000's in the summer and 35mm Schwalbe snow pillows in the winter on the same bike. So all things are equal except the commute is twice as long. Yes they are softer but they are also massively slower and heavier. Less wear and tear on the body? Maybe a bit, depending on the roads you are riding and your riding style. The OP is riding a Roubaix which by all accounts has great vertical compliance and dampening quality. 25mm are going to run at 100psi and I think the widest tire most road frames accept are 28mm that would probably need to be inflated to around 90psi. Those are still going to be far harder than the 65psi or less that someone could run 32's at.
I ride 23mm GP4000's in the summer and 35mm Schwalbe snow pillows in the winter on the same bike. So all things are equal except the commute is twice as long. Yes they are softer but they are also massively slower and heavier. Less wear and tear on the body? Maybe a bit, depending on the roads you are riding and your riding style. The OP is riding a Roubaix which by all accounts has great vertical compliance and dampening quality. 25mm are going to run at 100psi and I think the widest tire most road frames accept are 28mm that would probably need to be inflated to around 90psi. Those are still going to be far harder than the 65psi or less that someone could run 32's at.
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With the Roubaix being a higher end bike, bigger tires aren't going to help as much. That frame is designed to be comfortable on rough roads (that's where the name came from). Fat tires are a crutch for poorly designed frames and the Roubaix is not a poorly designed frame. In fact, the wheels can have a greater impact on ride comfort than skinny or fat tires.
Personally, I'd just ride the OEM tires till they are worn out then put the conti's on.
Personally, I'd just ride the OEM tires till they are worn out then put the conti's on.
Last edited by Homeyba; 01-29-11 at 01:15 PM.
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Not unless I want a different size. Otherwise, why pay money for a tire and not use it?
#10
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My 2010 Roubaix came with this tire:
Specialized Roubaix Pro II, 700x23c, aramid bead, 120TPI, w/ Flak Jacket protection
I only rode them a few times before I replaced the wheelset with a pair of Spinergy Xaero Lites wheels with Michelin Pro3 tires. The Pro3s just didn't last for me and I flatted several times in the rear and both tires got nicked up pretty badly fairly quickly. I then went with Continental GP4s and have been very happy with them.
I would think you'll notice a difference in the tires but a lot of it may also be a placebo effect.
FYI, I've been VERY happy with the Spinergy wheels. They've stayed true under my Clyde-butt...and I'm not just barely a Clyde either. The rims are aluminum and the PBO fiber spokes really soak up the road chatter. That in combination with the Roubaix itself makes even chipseal almost tolerable. Plus, it's kinda neat showing people that I can tie my spoke in a knot...
Specialized Roubaix Pro II, 700x23c, aramid bead, 120TPI, w/ Flak Jacket protection
I only rode them a few times before I replaced the wheelset with a pair of Spinergy Xaero Lites wheels with Michelin Pro3 tires. The Pro3s just didn't last for me and I flatted several times in the rear and both tires got nicked up pretty badly fairly quickly. I then went with Continental GP4s and have been very happy with them.
I would think you'll notice a difference in the tires but a lot of it may also be a placebo effect.
FYI, I've been VERY happy with the Spinergy wheels. They've stayed true under my Clyde-butt...and I'm not just barely a Clyde either. The rims are aluminum and the PBO fiber spokes really soak up the road chatter. That in combination with the Roubaix itself makes even chipseal almost tolerable. Plus, it's kinda neat showing people that I can tie my spoke in a knot...
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I usually ride the tires the bike comes with. If I notice I am getting flats then I change them out. If I feel I want a faster ride I change them out. Basically it all depends.
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My new Specialized Roubaix came with "Specialized All Condition, 700x23c, wire bead, 60TPI, w/ Flak Jacket protection"
When you guys buy a new bike do you change the tires immediately to something better or do you run the tires until the wear out?
I am thinking of replacing the tires with the Conti 4000S (with Black Chili).
Do you think I will notice a big difference in ride?
When you guys buy a new bike do you change the tires immediately to something better or do you run the tires until the wear out?
I am thinking of replacing the tires with the Conti 4000S (with Black Chili).
Do you think I will notice a big difference in ride?
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I keep the stock tires on,unless they are total junk,and you don't feel safe on them. The last couple of bikes i've bought new came with decent tires. My latest bike came with Vittoria adventure touring tires. So far 600 mi I find these to be a good all around tire. Infact I will buy the same tire when these wear out.
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Same tires on my 2010 Spec Roubaix. Great tires and great Aksium OEM wheels (26 spoke). I got a new set of tires this Xmas from Santa as my Roubaix OEM tires had 2000+ miles on them. Only ever had 3 flats and I was over 300lbs.
If you take them off, I will take them off your hands.
If you take them off, I will take them off your hands.
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I'd ride them until the rear is trashed, then buy two new tires of whatever you'd like. Save the oem front tire for a trainer tire if you happen to use one.
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#17
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Thanks guys.
I think I will keep the OEM tires. I really don't have a complaint about them.
Usually when I have bought a new bike before the OEM tires have been junk and I have replaced them right away.
These seem to be fine - not great - but fine.
Unless I run across an amazing deal on the Conti's I will keep riding these.
I think I will keep the OEM tires. I really don't have a complaint about them.
Usually when I have bought a new bike before the OEM tires have been junk and I have replaced them right away.
These seem to be fine - not great - but fine.
Unless I run across an amazing deal on the Conti's I will keep riding these.
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I use the tires that came with the bike until they wear out, unless I find them had to ride, like slippery or something.
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Sure I change em, sometimes b4 the bike gets out of the shop, they gotta have flexy sidwalls and and have a "round" cross-section- if not they ride rough and corner weird
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