flat bar = hand pain!
#1
Thread Starter
No one carries the DogBoy

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From: Upper Midwest USA
Bikes: Roubaix Expert Di2, Jamis Renegade, Surly Disc Trucker, Cervelo P2, CoMotion Tandem
flat bar = hand pain!
If I ride my flat-bar bike over an hour I start to get pain in my hands & wrists. I think it is because it forces me to cock my wrists to hold the bar. This has me thinking...are there any bars out there that are shaped like this: /-------\? I guess I'm looking for an angle of about 155 degrees, a flat length of 35 cm and 11 cm after the bend for a total bar length of 57, but a width of 55. How do I go about finding such a creature, and do you think that is my problem or something else? I have my setup the same as my road set-up, except the flatbar gives me a different grip than the road-grip, which is why I suspect that's the problem. Any insight?
#2
contrarian

Joined: Jan 2004
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From: CO Springs
Bikes: 80's ross road bike/commuter, 80's team miyata, 90's haro mtb xtracycle conversion, koga mitaya world traveler
moustasche bar
edit: look at this:
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/87771-mucking-about-set-north-road-handlebars.html
edit: look at this:
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/87771-mucking-about-set-north-road-handlebars.html
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#3
Thread Starter
No one carries the DogBoy

Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Upper Midwest USA
Bikes: Roubaix Expert Di2, Jamis Renegade, Surly Disc Trucker, Cervelo P2, CoMotion Tandem
I've thought of that, but then I have to switch to barcons and brake shifters, and probably have to re-run the cables...I'd prefer a solution that lets me keep the rapid-fire shifter/brake combos already on the bar. I'd also not be able to use a handlebar bag, which is where I'm keeping my light batteries warm so I get better burn-time. Not ready to go that route yet.
Edit: Those might work...Pic 3 looks like what I'm going for, but I'd need a new stem with a higher angle. Still better than hand pain I guess... Thanks for the link.
Edit: Those might work...Pic 3 looks like what I'm going for, but I'd need a new stem with a higher angle. Still better than hand pain I guess... Thanks for the link.
#4
I drink your MILKSHAKE

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 15,061
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From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
#5
Before swapping bars, follow Raiyn's advice and adjust (or swap) your stem.
You want your body weight distributed mainly over the the pedals, and the saddle - then the bars.
But don't just take my word for it:
You want your body weight distributed mainly over the the pedals, and the saddle - then the bars.
But don't just take my word for it:
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Your butt and your feet are made to support weight, but your hands and wrists are not. Hand discomfort is a very common complaint among cyclists, and it is most often the result of positioning/adjustment problems.
Hand/wrist/shoulder/neck pain often result from inappropriate handlebar adjustment.
Hand/wrist/shoulder/neck pain often result from inappropriate handlebar adjustment.
#6
Thread Starter
No one carries the DogBoy

Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Upper Midwest USA
Bikes: Roubaix Expert Di2, Jamis Renegade, Surly Disc Trucker, Cervelo P2, CoMotion Tandem
I know I've got an aggressive position for a hybrid bike, but it matches my road positioning and I have zero issues with my road position. I don't really want to ride more upright, as I prefer to keep the same position on all my bikes if possible. That's why I'm thinking its grip. Is there something about a flat bar that means I need to ride more upright?
#8
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2003
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Gel padded gloves.
Wrists straight and elbows bent.
The road bars offer lots of positions to move around on, you could be taking advantage of them on the road bike. Adding bar ends will give you a couple of places to move your hands too.
Follow Raiyn's suggestion and get a higher stem.
You may have the saddle tipped too far forward, putting too much pressure on you hands, try tipping the saddle back a small amount and going for test rides.
Wrists straight and elbows bent.
The road bars offer lots of positions to move around on, you could be taking advantage of them on the road bike. Adding bar ends will give you a couple of places to move your hands too.
Follow Raiyn's suggestion and get a higher stem.
You may have the saddle tipped too far forward, putting too much pressure on you hands, try tipping the saddle back a small amount and going for test rides.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Oregon
Bikes: 2003 Jamis Nova - commuter setup
What about some simple bar ends? That will at least give you the option to ride in a different position when you don't need to brake or shift.
I see it's already been mentioned, but here's a link anyway.
I see it's already been mentioned, but here's a link anyway.
#10
SoCal Commuter

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 592
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From: Agua Dulce, CA
Bikes: Surly Crosscheck single/9 speed convertible, Novara Buzz beater
By all means begin with a set of bar-ends. They're cheap and it might be just what the doctor ordered.
I found a pair of mustache bars (for my single speed) that are MTB diameter, so I am able to run MTB levers and shifters if need be. Sorry, but I got them out of the used pile at the LBS, so I don't know the manufacturer.
Finally, go to Jonesbikes.com. He's a custom bicycle builder who deals in titanium MTB's. He makes what looks like the most comfortable MTB - or any other style for that matter - bars I've seen. He calls them H bars. They're expensive: I think $180 for stock, more for custom measurements and such. But hey, if straight bars are absolutely ruining your biking, it's a quality of life issue. Just think about how much people shell out for foot or back products in order to rid themselves of unecessary pain. Depending on how much it matters to you, $200 bucks is actually a cheap prescription these days.
DanO
I found a pair of mustache bars (for my single speed) that are MTB diameter, so I am able to run MTB levers and shifters if need be. Sorry, but I got them out of the used pile at the LBS, so I don't know the manufacturer.
Finally, go to Jonesbikes.com. He's a custom bicycle builder who deals in titanium MTB's. He makes what looks like the most comfortable MTB - or any other style for that matter - bars I've seen. He calls them H bars. They're expensive: I think $180 for stock, more for custom measurements and such. But hey, if straight bars are absolutely ruining your biking, it's a quality of life issue. Just think about how much people shell out for foot or back products in order to rid themselves of unecessary pain. Depending on how much it matters to you, $200 bucks is actually a cheap prescription these days.
DanO
#11
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: NC
Bikes: Giant Cypress Sx, Cheap clunker mountain bike
Easiet way around it, lessen then tension and weight you put on your wrists/hands. Examine just exactly what you are doing throughout your entire body, where the tension is, and where the weight is and see what you reelly need where and shift some of those around.
Past that I have had a time when my wrists did get a bit sore after biking 4 hours of hills(I was riding a junker mountain bike that was too small). I just turned my hands around to a more comfortable position and rested them on top of the grips as I biked on. Everything was all good.
Past that I have had a time when my wrists did get a bit sore after biking 4 hours of hills(I was riding a junker mountain bike that was too small). I just turned my hands around to a more comfortable position and rested them on top of the grips as I biked on. Everything was all good.
#12
Member

Joined: Feb 2004
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I use bar-ends on my flat bars, but I mount them "in-board" so they're shoulder width apart, simulating road-bar width. I don't have them mounted in the conventional position on the ends of the bar. My regular commute takes me about 75 minutes each way and I did a nine day solo tour last summer with this setup. I have the bars and the bar-ends taped for comfort. If you try it, play around with the vertical angle of the bar-ends until they're comfortable for you.
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 158
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From: Rocklin, CA
Originally Posted by DogBoy
I know I've got an aggressive position for a hybrid bike, but it matches my road positioning and I have zero issues with my road position. I don't really want to ride more upright, as I prefer to keep the same position on all my bikes if possible. That's why I'm thinking its grip. Is there something about a flat bar that means I need to ride more upright?
Usually even flat bars do have some sweep back angle. Can you rotate the bars somewhat in the stem to have this angle help? I also agree with the suggestions for bar ends. Gives you another position to grip.
#14
Thread Starter
No one carries the DogBoy

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From: Upper Midwest USA
Bikes: Roubaix Expert Di2, Jamis Renegade, Surly Disc Trucker, Cervelo P2, CoMotion Tandem
okay, lots of good advice has been given here. I've flipped my stem (to give rise, not drop) and checked the seat angle and the seat is flat. This hasn't really helped much. I try bending my elbows to help keep my wrists straight, but I can't do it for very long and seems quite unnatural. The angle of sweep on my current bars is very small, and it is angled back. Perhaps I was just meant to ride a road bike and not a mtn or hybrid 
I'm not sure how to put bar-ends on my bike with my mirror, and that thing is a life saver, so I don't want to give up on it. I tried some of those bar-ends with mirrors built in but the mirror is so small it doesn't help. Oh well, I guess at this point I just need to go to my LBS and see if they have some direct suggestions. O/W, I might just strip off the flat bar, get some randonnering bars, brake levers and bar-end shifters.
Thanks for the advice.

I'm not sure how to put bar-ends on my bike with my mirror, and that thing is a life saver, so I don't want to give up on it. I tried some of those bar-ends with mirrors built in but the mirror is so small it doesn't help. Oh well, I guess at this point I just need to go to my LBS and see if they have some direct suggestions. O/W, I might just strip off the flat bar, get some randonnering bars, brake levers and bar-end shifters.
Thanks for the advice.
#15
vegan powered
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 385
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From: Chico, Ca
I want bar ends on my bike also but the grips that are on it cover the end of the bar. It seems like you would have to cut the end off to fit on a bar end. Also you would have to move them in like an inch or so on each side to fit bar ends right? Seems like id have to get a longer handle bar.
#16
Thread Starter
No one carries the DogBoy

Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Upper Midwest USA
Bikes: Roubaix Expert Di2, Jamis Renegade, Surly Disc Trucker, Cervelo P2, CoMotion Tandem
Originally Posted by dee-vee
I want bar ends on my bike also but the grips that are on it cover the end of the bar. It seems like you would have to cut the end off to fit on a bar end. Also you would have to move them in like an inch or so on each side to fit bar ends right? Seems like id have to get a longer handle bar.
#17
In Memory of One Cool Cat

Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Charlottesville, VA
Bikes: Lemond Victoire, Cannondale.Mountain Bike, two 1980s lugged steel Treks, ancient 1980-something Giant mountain bike converted into a slick tired commuter with mustache handlebars, 1960-something Raleigh Sports
I had the same kind of pain. Went to a moustache bar. Works for me.
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#18
Riding is Praying
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Boston
Bikes: Jamis Nova, Fisher Tassajara, Indy Fab Crown Jewel; Titan NOS fixed
maybe look at the cane creek bar ends, your hands stay further back with them, so you get more of the shape I think you were looking for. THeir also light and very ergonomic. If you really like your road bike, look at a cross bike.
#19
Si Senior
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Naperville, Illinois
Bikes: Too Numerous (not)
I get wrist problems too and avoid single-position situations for very long. These have probably been mentioned around here before, but you might consider something like this:
https://www.endless-innovations.com/m....asp?ProdID=90
https://www.endless-innovations.com/m....asp?ProdID=90
#20
Si Senior
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,669
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From: Naperville, Illinois
Bikes: Too Numerous (not)
Originally Posted by dbg
I get wrist problems too and avoid single-position situations for very long. These have probably been mentioned around here before, but you might consider something like this:
https://www.endless-innovations.com/m....asp?ProdID=90
https://www.endless-innovations.com/m....asp?ProdID=90
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 158
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From: Rocklin, CA
Originally Posted by DogBoy
okay, lots of good advice has been given here. I've flipped my stem (to give rise, not drop) and checked the seat angle and the seat is flat. This hasn't really helped much. I try bending my elbows to help keep my wrists straight, but I can't do it for very long and seems quite unnatural. The angle of sweep on my current bars is very small, and it is angled back. Perhaps I was just meant to ride a road bike and not a mtn or hybrid 
I'm not sure how to put bar-ends on my bike with my mirror, and that thing is a life saver, so I don't want to give up on it. I tried some of those bar-ends with mirrors built in but the mirror is so small it doesn't help. Oh well, I guess at this point I just need to go to my LBS and see if they have some direct suggestions. O/W, I might just strip off the flat bar, get some randonnering bars, brake levers and bar-end shifters.
Thanks for the advice.

I'm not sure how to put bar-ends on my bike with my mirror, and that thing is a life saver, so I don't want to give up on it. I tried some of those bar-ends with mirrors built in but the mirror is so small it doesn't help. Oh well, I guess at this point I just need to go to my LBS and see if they have some direct suggestions. O/W, I might just strip off the flat bar, get some randonnering bars, brake levers and bar-end shifters.
Thanks for the advice.
#22
my wrist pains sure got way better on the mtb's when i switched to riser bars with more sweep, but i am not sure if i'd want that position out on the open road.
i actually have seen a couple messengers around the city riding riser bars flipped over so you get a slight drop as opposed to a rise.
i actually have seen a couple messengers around the city riding riser bars flipped over so you get a slight drop as opposed to a rise.
#23
Thread Starter
No one carries the DogBoy

Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Upper Midwest USA
Bikes: Roubaix Expert Di2, Jamis Renegade, Surly Disc Trucker, Cervelo P2, CoMotion Tandem
I'll check them out when I go to the LBS. At this point I think I need to hold the things in my hands to see what kind of angle I get.
#24
Just riding
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Exeter, UK
Bikes: Cannondale Bad Boy / Mercian track / BOB trailer / Moulton recumbent project
Cane Creek do a T-shaped ergonomic bar end that sounds exactly what you're after: https://www.canecreek.com/site/produc...t/01_ergo.html







