From quill stem to threadless stem
#1
Rhapsodic Laviathan
Thread Starter
From quill stem to threadless stem
I have a 2012 Diamondback Drifter 1 that I am doing "something" to. When all the random parts are on it we can fuigure out what it will be.
ANYWAY; it has a 1-1/8 inch quill stem, if I were to do so, as I'm hoping, will a threadless fork just slid right in? Would I need to carry over the bearing cups in the frame or just the top assembly? Or would it just slid in and all I would need to do is remove the top nut from the cruiser so the fork slides in and just replace it's spacers and whatnot?
ANYWAY; it has a 1-1/8 inch quill stem, if I were to do so, as I'm hoping, will a threadless fork just slid right in? Would I need to carry over the bearing cups in the frame or just the top assembly? Or would it just slid in and all I would need to do is remove the top nut from the cruiser so the fork slides in and just replace it's spacers and whatnot?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Not that simple. The top race on a threaded headset is (duh) threaded and too small in diameter for a threadless steerer to slip through so you, at a minimum, need the entire upper half of a threadless headset. The lower cup, bearings and crown race of the threaded headset could be reused but, since you probably can't buy just the top half, you might as well install both new races.
Yeas ago when threadless headsets and forks first appeared, Shimano sponsored pro teams wanted to use them but Shimano didn't (and still doesn't) make threadless headsets. The team mechanics machined out the threads of Shimano headset upper races to make them fit threadless steerers but this was precise work and a stop-gap at best. Don't do it.
Yeas ago when threadless headsets and forks first appeared, Shimano sponsored pro teams wanted to use them but Shimano didn't (and still doesn't) make threadless headsets. The team mechanics machined out the threads of Shimano headset upper races to make them fit threadless steerers but this was precise work and a stop-gap at best. Don't do it.
Last edited by HillRider; 01-15-14 at 07:45 AM.
#3
Banned
Simplest. fork stays in place, headset remains. as before
Quill stem is replaced by an adaptor , it is quill on the bottom..
and a Place to clamp the threadless stem on top,
+ a threadless stem of your choosing..
Cane Creek was the developer of threadless headsets.. a type which others followed..
A US company Chris King makes sealed bearing headsets.
his company does have a design where the threaded 2 nut,
and the threadless preload are a parts change, on top of the top race.
but it is a much more expensive component..
Quill stem is replaced by an adaptor , it is quill on the bottom..
and a Place to clamp the threadless stem on top,
+ a threadless stem of your choosing..
Cane Creek was the developer of threadless headsets.. a type which others followed..
A US company Chris King makes sealed bearing headsets.
his company does have a design where the threaded 2 nut,
and the threadless preload are a parts change, on top of the top race.
but it is a much more expensive component..
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-15-14 at 10:27 AM.
#4
Rhapsodic Laviathan
Thread Starter
Simplest. fork stays in place, headset remains. as before
Quill stem is replaced by an adaptor , it is quill on the bottom..
and a Place to clamp the threadless stem on top,
+ a threadless stem of your choosing..
Cane Creek was the developer of threadless headsets.. a type which others followed..
A US company Chris King makes sealed bearing headsets.
his company does have a design where the threaded 2 nut,
and the threadless preload are a parts change, on top of the top race.
but it is a much more expensive component..
Quill stem is replaced by an adaptor , it is quill on the bottom..
and a Place to clamp the threadless stem on top,
+ a threadless stem of your choosing..
Cane Creek was the developer of threadless headsets.. a type which others followed..
A US company Chris King makes sealed bearing headsets.
his company does have a design where the threaded 2 nut,
and the threadless preload are a parts change, on top of the top race.
but it is a much more expensive component..
#5
Banned
Then you replace everything .. fork ,headset , stem(you have that), and wheel + the disc brake parts..
it starts to be, in cost, close enough to consider: Buying a Whole new Bike
with disc brakes as standard components.
it starts to be, in cost, close enough to consider: Buying a Whole new Bike
with disc brakes as standard components.
#6
Senior Member
He'll probably have trouble finding a disc brake equipped beach cruiser.
#7
Banned
Sun Spider a Fat Bike with 4" wide tires this season comes with a front disc brake ..
and kick back 2 speed coaster-brake rear hub.. you can ride those On the Beach.
Sold here, people ride out with their Clam gear an dig up food.
and kick back 2 speed coaster-brake rear hub.. you can ride those On the Beach.
Sold here, people ride out with their Clam gear an dig up food.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Posts: 6,681
Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
i would buy a new Richey 1 1/8 traditional threadless headset
i get them off ebay for about 20-25. comes in black and silver. work great.
i get them off ebay for about 20-25. comes in black and silver. work great.
#9
Rhapsodic Laviathan
Thread Starter
thanks for the info. I may just wait and just swap a regular quill fork and just deal with the coaster until I can either afford the swap or a bike already how I want.
#10
Rhapsodic Laviathan
Thread Starter
Well, I did it. I salvaged a Genesis V2100, the fork only needed the top bearing race. I reused the dust cap from the drifter1s original fork. next thing to do is put the disc back on the swift arriv wheel and take the tires that were on my mystery torqouis beach cruiser.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Posts: 9,547
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1528 Post(s)
Liked 718 Times
in
510 Posts
Although most threaded road headsets, and a few MTB ones, use a threaded cup; this upside-down style is pretty rare in threadless AFAIK so you'd probably need the whole half.
Last edited by Kimmo; 01-27-14 at 04:41 AM.
#12
Cottered Crank
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,401
Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
7 Posts
All you needed was one of these to convert to a modern threadless stem. But if you wanted a new threadless fork then getting a new top 1-1/8" threadless cone and the proper spacers, as well as a star-fangled nut, threadless bolt and top cap would be at minimum as Kimmo said above.
Just don't ever try and clamp a threadless stem onto a threaded steer tube on the threaded portion. That's a recipe for disaster.
Just don't ever try and clamp a threadless stem onto a threaded steer tube on the threaded portion. That's a recipe for disaster.
#13
Rhapsodic Laviathan
Thread Starter
i used the part of the upper threadlless headset the holds the loose bearings in the cup. the dust cover from the bikes original fork and a spacer. works great. i should probaly post the rest of the build in another section though.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
virtualelvis
Bicycle Mechanics
8
11-16-10 07:23 PM