evrythngsgngrn

I'm working on adjusting my front shifting, as the bike as delivered is having issues getting to the big ring. I'm running SRAM Rival shifters and FD.

First, when shifting from the small ring to the big ring with the double tap shifter, should the shift place the derailleur cage at the outer most position (ie. up against where the outer limit screw is set)? As well, when in this position where I've just shifted to the big ring, if I manually pull on the cable, if the outer limit screw is set correctly, should the derailleur cage actually move outward with the manual pull, or should there be no movement because it should be up against the outer limit?

I'm starting from scratch with the adjustments, but wanted to know if that should happen if things are setup correctly. I haven't started yet, the observations above are based on how it is currently setup.

Looigi

It should put it up against the stop, so pulling the cable won't make it go any further. If it's like pre-yaw Force and Red, a full firm swing of the paddle will put it all the way against the stop. A click will drop it to a trim position, and another click will drop it to the small ring.

markjenn

My my Rival, the shift itself puts it against the stop, but then it drops back a little as it clicks into place. This slight overshift seems to help it get on the big ring easier and reduces the need to immediately have to trim. I will say that my Rival FD was the hardest to setup of any I've done - it was very sensitive to both the high limit screw and cable tension adjustment and require some fiddling. But once dialed-in, it has been rock solid.

- Mark

evrythngsgngrn

Yes that is how it is supposed to work (shift, trim then down), currently the initial shift doesn't put it up against the limit, so when I pull on the cable it moves quite a bit out.

Thanks guys, I'm going to disconnect the cable and start from scratch.

markjenn

To set your limit screws, I'd suggest backing off cable tension with the adjuster and manually tensioning the cable by deflecting it with your hand rather than using the shifters. The spec is usually to have 1-mm between the outer cage plate and the chain with the chain on the smallest sprocket, but you sometimes need a little more to get a crisp shift to the big ring. Get the H screw so that you get a nice crisp shift when you deflect the cable without overshifting. Then do the L screw, again looking for your 1-mm between the inner cage plate and the chain with the chain on the largest sprocket. When you're getting crisp shifts back and forth pulling the cable manually, then as a very last step tension the cable and start using the shifters. Usually you can tension just by removing cable slack but on the Rival, I find I have to do some trail/error further fiddling with cable tension to get a nice crisp shift to the big ring, but not have to immediately trim after the shift.

This usually gets it. If not, then usually there is some problem with FD height, rotational alignment, chainline, etc.

- Mark

FBinNY 

I separate the issue of trim and outer limit. I start by setting the outer limit to just inboard of where the chain would overshift otherwise. (outermost workable position).

Then when setting th cable length, I adjust the trim so the cage's outer plate just clears the chain when coming form the outermost sprocket (innermost, non rubbing trim). This will give me the most latitude for chain clearance of the inner plate when coming from an inner rear sprocket.

Usually (not always) this method, has the FD with a bit of overtravel beyond the outer trim position. That's OK because it gives me that extra bit of aggressiveness when shifting.

markjenn

Well said. Precisely what I was getting at - sometimes you need a little overshifting to get both crisp shifting and no need to immediately trim after shifting.

- Mark

Looigi

Agree setting up the FD for over-shifting can be a useful nuance at times. In the case of the 2 Red and 1 Force bikes here, I have not found any benefit to setting them up that way.

evrythngsgngrn

Ok, so I have it shifting up and down well, the only thing I've noticed so far is that the trim adjustment doesn't seem to move as far (or as much) as it used to. I haven't tried yet to see where it rubs in the trim position (it may not), but if it does, is this just a cable tension issue and will adjusting the barrel adjusters adjust where it moves to when going to the trim position?

FBinNY 

Assuming your levers have a trim click (some do, some don't) use the barrel adjuster to set the trim for the large ring on the "full high" position based on least clearance with the chain on the smallest rear.

Double check that it still shifts crisply. If not, trim out board more until shifting is crisp and reliable. (assumes limit was properly set earlier). Now, if you use the trim click it should move inbound slightly. Hopefully it's enough to clear the chain coming from the inside sprocket, but if not, your options are limited since the throw of the trim click is fixed.

Sometimes it's a matter of finding the best balance between clearance coming from the outside in high, and the trim click and using the inner rear on the large ring.