Frame geometry and flat pedals
#26
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
It is clear that I need food retention but I do not want it. I will try once more time and hopefully the discussion will not veer off towards pedals, brakes or helmets - for those who (foolishly and irresponsibly) do not use foot retention, what kind of frame geometry they should consider for feeling more safe going downhill?
Last edited by SquidPuppet; 06-21-15 at 10:13 AM.
#27
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How will any of that help him get his feet back on the pedals why they get kicked off? Maybe he should look for a frame with good clearances for Ted shredding.
#28
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
He completely understands that his pedal choice is less than optimum, and within that context is also inquiring about frame geometry for an increased feeling of downhill safety.
He specifically said to ignore that pedal issue when answering his question about downhill handling.
He couldn't have been more clear.
It is clear that I need food retention
but I do not want it.
hopefully the discussion will not veer off towards pedals,
what kind of frame geometry they should consider for feeling more safe going downhill?
I understood his question so I thought I'd offer an answer.
Last edited by SquidPuppet; 06-21-15 at 11:53 AM.
#29
~>~
These machines are strictly fixed gear and are not equipped with brakes, but require proper foot retention.
Track bikes do go round and round on Velodrome bankings quite well indeed. On open public roads with hills, stop lights and rough surfaces not so much.
Road bikes are designed for use on open public roads, some are fixed gear and are equipped with brake(s) and proper foot retention.
Road bikes go up and down hills with little drama if the rider is competent, absorb road irregularities and provide convenient stopping capability.
Each design has a required set of design characteristics to make it suitable for it's intended environment, google Track and Road bike design to elucidate.
For maximum street cred an old abused imported track bike purportedly used in Japanese Kerin track racing is most suitable.
For safe-ish riding downhill a road bike, with whatever drivetrain one prefers, equipped with proper foot retention, good tires and well set-up brakes in the correct frame size may suffice.
-Bandera
Last edited by Bandera; 06-21-15 at 12:35 PM.
#31
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Thanks, looks like my not too short wheelbase and not very high BB work fine for me. The seep seat tube is compensated with offset seat stem and the seat is pushed back. I switched the 1" raiser with a moustache that is flipped over, slightly inclined and raised a little higher than the seat. Interestingly, the pressure on my arms noticeably decreases with more pressure on pedals-much more than when I've used the raisers. For now I have one TT brake, thinking of second one. I always apply little pressure on pedals when going downhill, since reading in these forums that it is the right thing to do, even though during this time I whish to slow down. Does somebody know if two bikes have the same trail but different combinations of front tube angle and offset, what is the difference?
When I need a quick reaction to stop or swirl to avoid collision or a hole, my feet can go off the pedals and from there the situation will deteriorate. So, I would like to increase my chances to recover from these situations through frame geometry and fit set-up. Speed and long distances are not so much of interest of mine.
When I need a quick reaction to stop or swirl to avoid collision or a hole, my feet can go off the pedals and from there the situation will deteriorate. So, I would like to increase my chances to recover from these situations through frame geometry and fit set-up. Speed and long distances are not so much of interest of mine.
Last edited by hasp; 06-21-15 at 06:36 PM.
#32
Fresh Garbage
Only experience and confidence will help you recover from loosing your footing. Getting a new frame is an expensive way to get around this problem when something like $10 straps will actually solve the problem 6KU Pedal Straps
From your description, it sounds like you want a touring bike frame, doesn't get more slow and stable than that on road bikes.
From your description, it sounds like you want a touring bike frame, doesn't get more slow and stable than that on road bikes.
#33
~>~
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When I need a quick reaction to stop or swirl to avoid collision or a hole, my feet can go off the pedals and from there the situation will deteriorate. So, I would like to increase my chances to recover from these situations through frame geometry and fit set-up. Speed and long distances are not so much of interest of mine.
#35
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I made calzones from scratch yesterday with spinach, summer squash and shiitake mushrooms with fresh mozzarella as filling, together with artichoke heart tomato sauce.
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#38
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By the way guys, thanks for leaving the food joke for me, a good Fuji beats a Honeycrisp, and any Italian blood in our calzone maker???
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#43
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#44
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Every person I know that rides fixed rides with some sort of foot retention. I have ridden SPD's for the last 8 years or so and will continue to do so, on all of my bikes. 2 "track", a fat bike and whatever else I decide to get. OP is creating all kinds of problems to solve but has the answer right in front of him/her. They choose to ignore the suggestions made by MULTIPLE people here from new to senior members. You cannot help those that do not want to help themselves.
#45
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Problem is that OP is comparing geo of 55 kilo to 54 purefix when he should be comparing to 53 kilo. Should have started a thread on kilo tt sizing first noob the end
Last edited by rms13; 06-22-15 at 10:01 AM.
#48
Pirate/Smuggler
Just occurred to me that maybe OP is contemplating some kind of stunt like going down Mont Ventoux with feet on the top tube.