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a brooks question....

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Old 09-15-08, 08:09 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Thetank
Use proofide instead of some cheap alternative. There's a reason brooks sells the stuff and specifically recommends you use it during the breaking in period. I trust a company that's been in business dealing with leather since 1866 over a bunch of online forum recommendations any day.
yeah, $$$$$$$$$$
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Old 09-15-08, 08:14 AM
  #27  
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No, it won't harm your saddle. And yes, you should Proofide or SnoSeal or whatever, sooner rather than later (just to protect it). If you're going to do it (and you should), why wait?
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Old 09-15-08, 08:16 AM
  #28  
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i'm not.
i'm picking up some sno seal today.

i just hate that brooks charges so much for their saddles to begin with (not that they aren't worth it), then don't even give you a break on their accessories.
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Old 09-15-08, 08:19 AM
  #29  
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why favor aquaseal over sno seal if it's the "exact same stuff"?
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Old 09-15-08, 08:21 AM
  #30  
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i can find the snoseal at academy sports for super cheap.
i'ma do dat.
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Old 09-15-08, 08:25 AM
  #31  
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where can i buy it?
rei only seems to stock the stuff for tents.
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Old 09-15-08, 08:28 AM
  #32  
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i did.
i gotta buy that **** online.
weak.
i'm going to academy.
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Old 09-15-08, 08:33 AM
  #33  
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you could just purchase some proofide...just sayin'
 
Old 09-15-08, 08:37 AM
  #34  
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My experience using sno seal, mink oil, or other oils, and baseball glove conditioner has not been good, over the years. Lexol, and proofide have been fantastic.

My use has basically been on motorcycle leathers (lots of them) and lots of different leather boots, and lots of leather gloves (deerhide happen to be my favorite.)

My experience with the various Sno seal and mink oils, and any other oils, have been to make the leather too soft, make it constantly wet with oils, caused it to rot sooner, and left me with cold feet, hands, and body, because of the leathers inability to insulate when "drenched", and the inability of the leather to breath, causing wetter conditions inside.

Why would it be any better with a bike seat?

While I respect Sheldon's opinions on most things, on this I bow to Brooks who have been building and maintaining their saddles for a looooong time. They actually recommend against using anything except proofide. One tin should last the rest of your life, if you reseal it with electrical tape after using.

I look at it as cheap insurance, and another strike in your favor should you have any problem with the saddle, and require Brooks' help.

A large tin can be had at Nashbar for $14.

MHO

Last edited by Wanderer; 09-15-08 at 08:40 AM. Reason: typos
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Old 09-15-08, 08:40 AM
  #35  
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good call on sealing the tin after using...thanks
 
Old 09-15-08, 09:03 AM
  #36  
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Gurgus is murder
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Old 09-15-08, 09:17 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by mander
Gurgus is murder
Too true...I eat meat and ride a B-17 Special(in green). Thanks for the laugh.
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Old 09-15-08, 09:35 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by thehappyrobot
thinking about getting sno seal instead of proofide.
$3.78 a can vs. $20...and apparently it does the same thing.
I've used sno seal on mine here in the rainy PNW for years. It works great.

Rain does horrible things to these saddles. If you are every planning on riding in the rain, use fenders. In my experience, no matter how much proofide or sno seal or whatever is on the underside of the saddle, all the water flying up from the rear tire will quickly wet out the saddle. It will stretch and can be damaged. I ride mine all the time in the rain with fenders without complaints.
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Old 09-15-08, 09:37 AM
  #39  
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i wish my brooks had broken in after 30 miles..
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Old 09-15-08, 09:41 AM
  #40  
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i like how mine is gradually forming to my sit bones...it gets more comfy on each ride, when i 1st rode it it was a little hard and i was sliding a little but the support was just right

oh and all the hair that came on mine has worn off too...ha
 
Old 09-15-08, 04:18 PM
  #41  
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kinda off the topic but does anyone have a crazy case of creaking sounds from either the rails, or something else underneath the saddle? Its really really loud and creaky, quite annoying for me and other people around...
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Old 09-15-08, 05:07 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by danimal4lovin
kinda off the topic but does anyone have a crazy case of creaking sounds from either the rails, or something else underneath the saddle? Its really really loud and creaky, quite annoying for me and other people around...
you know i did have some creaking from my saddle before but i don't hear it any longer...it may have been coming from my seat post but i think it was the saddle, did you put grease on your rails before installing?
 
Old 09-15-08, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by danimal4lovin
kinda off the topic but does anyone have a crazy case of creaking sounds from either the rails, or something else underneath the saddle? Its really really loud and creaky, quite annoying for me and other people around...
Mine creeks, but only when I hit potholes or large bumps on the road while I'm still in the saddle. When that happens, the creeking sound is the last thing I worry about. I'm usuallly in pain.

Last edited by Cadd; 09-15-08 at 06:48 PM.
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Old 09-15-08, 06:33 PM
  #44  
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Serac, how exactly do you apply the sno seal? As per directions?
Heat leather, apply product liberally, and wipe away from the leather doesn't absorb?
Or do you apply it like proofide-on a room temperature saddle, and using very little?
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Old 09-15-08, 06:49 PM
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How are you supposed to apply proofide? I think I applied it twice. I used a whole lot! For under the seat, I didn't wipe it off. For the top of the saddle, after allowing it to sit on the saddle for a day or two, I took a piece of cloth and polished it off....and a lot came off (which means, I probably applied too much).
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Old 09-15-08, 06:52 PM
  #46  
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To the OP: if the leather hitting on the side likes that bothers you, you could always change to a different type of seat post that kind of curves backwards at the top because then the clamps sit further back on the seat rails. My Ritchey post is like that. It would position your seat in the exact same spot on the bike, but be clamping it further back on the seat rails.
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Old 09-15-08, 07:27 PM
  #47  
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The carbon molecules and phosphate compound found in the Brooks leather are compatible only with the magic potion put into Proofide. The use of any other leather conditioner will cause eminent combustion inside your bowl. Please spend your money on Proofide. We love consumers.

The Brooks team.
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Old 09-15-08, 07:29 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by powerband
The carbon molecules and phosphate compound found in the Brooks leather are compatible only with the magic potion put into Proofide. The use of any other leather conditioner will cause eminent combustion inside your bowl. Please spend your money on Proofide. We love consumers.

The Brooks team.
PRO-TIP: Eating Proofhide causes a rather entertaining combustion inside your bowel.
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Old 09-15-08, 07:46 PM
  #49  
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so i bought some sno seal.
now i need to know how to apply it.

i know, i know- i should have just bought the proofide, but i just hate the idea of spending $110 on a bicycle saddle, then having to spend another $20 right off the bat to protect it.
they should include a little bit with each saddle.
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Old 09-15-08, 08:16 PM
  #50  
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I just sno-sealed my B17 last night (after 2 months of riding without treatment). 100 degrees in my garage, I removed the seat and with clean hands, massaged the sno seal all over the top of the saddle. Got it nice and even, then used my wife's hair dryer to melt the sno seal, which made the seat nice and glossy. Let it dry, then did the bottom with the same process. I then left the saddle inside the house for 3 hours, then buffed off the top of the saddle with a terry cloth towel. Easy, and totally not worth the intimidation of ruining the seat. Rode it today for 35 miles and it didn't self destruct
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