1/8" or 3/32" chain?
#1
30 Century Man
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1/8" or 3/32" chain?
Is there any difference between running a 1/8" or a 3/32" chain on a fixed gear? Is 1/8" stronger, or is it just the more traditional size?
I'm on the verge of ordering some parts for my first fixed gear build and just want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff.
I'm on the verge of ordering some parts for my first fixed gear build and just want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff.
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After having snapped a 3/32" chainring recently I do feel more comfortable with 1/8" now that I've moved to this size. And yes, 1/8" is the traditional size for track drivetrains and is much more common than 3/32" if you're using track cranks/chainrings. Otherwise 3/32" is much more common. .
Last edited by dudezor; 07-05-09 at 06:40 AM.
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cab horn
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After having snapped a 3/32" chainring recently I do feel more comfortable with 1/8" now that I've moved to this size. And yes, 1/8" is the traditional size for track drivetrains and is much more common than 3/32" if you're using track cranks/chainrings. Otherwise 3/32" is much more common. .
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edit: and also granted, there are much tougher 3/32" rings than the one I snapped. I'm also not sure if it was the spider on the Ultegra crank which snapped first, or the chainring.
I bought some Omniums which come with a 1/8" ring, so that's what I'm running now anyway.
Last edited by dudezor; 07-05-09 at 08:20 AM.
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It was a 42t Shimano SG. When I inspected it after the break one of the chainring bolts was slightly loose, and granted, I'd say that would have been a factor. I feel quite confident that my new 1/8" ring would not snap if it had a slightly loose bolt though (*touch wood* But I'd hate to be proven wrong.)
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I'm not gonna be worried about 3/32 rings on my other bikes, but the beefiness of my new 1/8 ring is somewhat reassuring. If I had found some better track cranks for the price with a 3/32 ring I wouldn't have worried about have buying them instead.
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Whichever you decide to pick, have all the parts be 3/32 or 1/8. I was having major slippage issues with using 3/32 parts and a 1/8 chain...really bad idea, even though I've heard you can run it like that. Im using a chain tensioner and a 3/32 chain to avoid it from happening again. Anyway-dont know if either are that different, but when I have more money im switching to 1/8 components.
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3/32" is typically quieter. If your chainline isn't perfect, I would get 3/32, thoguh. It is more tolerant.
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if you are snapping a 3/32, you've installed it wrong or have a faulty drivetrain component. period.
having said that, i run 1/8 for the following reasons:
1. i snapped a 3/32 (reused kmc master link. don't do it.) and now use the 1/8 to appease my girlfriend who is:
a) worried about my safety and
b) of the mistaken impression that my Monster Quads of Thunder ("monquots" for short) are powerful enough to shred anything weaker than the cables they use to hold up the golden gate bridge
2. it is a nice a subtle way to say "i'm serious about this". no cheesy spoke cards or flop-n-chopped nitto b-123s or ass-shredding un-broken brooks saddles or any of that candy-coloured hipster cruft for me. no sir. but the 1/8 chain says, in a quiet way, that i ride that damn thing. a lot.
3. i have this superstitious belief that the lack of lateral wiggle on 1/8s make them less likely to leap off the chainring and leave you drive-less.
having said that, i run 1/8 for the following reasons:
1. i snapped a 3/32 (reused kmc master link. don't do it.) and now use the 1/8 to appease my girlfriend who is:
a) worried about my safety and
b) of the mistaken impression that my Monster Quads of Thunder ("monquots" for short) are powerful enough to shred anything weaker than the cables they use to hold up the golden gate bridge
2. it is a nice a subtle way to say "i'm serious about this". no cheesy spoke cards or flop-n-chopped nitto b-123s or ass-shredding un-broken brooks saddles or any of that candy-coloured hipster cruft for me. no sir. but the 1/8 chain says, in a quiet way, that i ride that damn thing. a lot.
3. i have this superstitious belief that the lack of lateral wiggle on 1/8s make them less likely to leap off the chainring and leave you drive-less.
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1/8 drivetrains are just as quiet as 3/32 with a good chainline too btw.
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Why do people think that a wider chain is any stronger than a thinner chain? In theory a 3/32 is stronger than a 1/8th chain, not that is matters in any application used by anyone here. The only difference in 1/32 of an inch.
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#18
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I run both depending on the drive set up and because I sometimes get a better deal on one or the other.
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I went with 1/8" chain. Even it is marginally louder and/or heavier, it's more than a fair trade for more durability imo
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Typically 1/8th stuff is made for the track, so you'll get chainrings without ramping for shifting, deeper teeth and just sturdier stuff in general.
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