mstateglfr 

If needed, frames can be coldest(stretched).
Some later 80s frames will accept 9speed cassettes as is.
I would think there would be a dozen(at least) bike shops in and around Denver that could confidently spread the frame. I say confident because around me there are a couple of shops which would spread a frame but I would be leery based on other things. I am sure all metro areas have that short of thing. A shop that has been around for years and deals with all types of riding(not just tri/road) would be a place I would look for.
You can spread it yourself too. Sheldon's site has step by step directions on how to make sure it is aligned once spread. I spread a frame last winter from 126 to 130- its 35 years old and still aligned great.

nfmisso

Pretty easy to do. There are two popular methods, and undoubtedly many others. I do not really like Sheldon's method, but do read it. The method I have used is a 3/8" threaded cro-mo rod (McMaster), lubricated, with threaded knobs to push against the insides of the drop outs. The dropouts have to be deformed a LOT further than the desired opening. For example on a double butted cro-mo frame that I took from 127mm to 135mm, I had to go to 170mm. I go 10mm at a time, then relax all the way back, measure, an additional 10mm, relax, measure, etc. Reducing to 5mm deform as I get close. Be patient. After this comes the string method (string from drop out around headset back to drop out: seat tube should be centered between the strings) to make sure things deformed symmetrically. And finally RD hanger alignment.

I go 135mm for stronger, less expensive hubs. 135mm hubs are about ½ the price of comparable 130mm hubs. 135mm also results in a stronger, closer to symmetrical wheel.

tarwheel 

I have a Bob Jackson World Tour that I bought about 5 years ago new from England. The frame is lugged with mounts for fenders and racks, front and rear. It is made from Reynolds 631 touring grade tubing, with thicker walls than regular 631. When I first had it built for commuting, it weighed about 21 lbs. It is now heavier because I've changed it to a triple and added fenders, a rear rack, and stouter wheels with a dynamo hub in front. Mine cost about $600 shipped from England as an "off the peg" model, which means non-custom but you can pick your color and decals for that price. Prices are higher now but still much less expensive than most lugged or custom frames.

If a sport touring frame is sufficient for your needs, the Soma-Rivendell San Marco and Gunnar Sport are excellent options. I have owned a Gunnar Sport and Crosshairs and they are well-made frames. I also own a Waterford RST-22 that I bought used, as I could never affort a new one. It is the nicest riding bike I have ever owned and I've ridden it on many supported tours. Although not designed for heavy loaded touring, it could easily handle loads in the 20-25 lb range. The Gunnar Sport is essentially a TIG-welded, non-custom version of the Waterford RST-22.

My main bike for loaded touring is a Soma Saga. It can handle heavier loads much better than my other bikes and also has room for larger tires.

seeker333

If it's a valuable (or sentimentally-valued) frame, you may want to not try cold setting it to 130/135 OLD. As previous poster indicated, you do have to spread the rear triangle a good way beyond 130 to get it to undergo permanent deformation. The problem is that when you spread an old (lugged) frame that far, there is some likelihood that the seatstay/brake bridge (and to lesser extent the chainstay bridge) will "let go" at the brazed joint under high tension - you can break the frame!

If the prospect of de-joining frame tubes doesn't bother you, then go ahead. Odds of this not happening are in your favor based on personal experience. All you need is a long 2x4, some newspaper/padding material, either your foot or a solid anchor point so the frame doesn't fly up and kneecap you. Safety glasses are always a good idea when you're working near Potential Energy.

If you do spread the rear triangle, then rear dropouts will no longer be parallel - they will be splayed outwards. You can correct this with a big adjustable wrench and careful, judicious observation. Park has a tool to check/correct this condition. Actually, visiting a competent LBS for this entire job is probably money well spent for most people. I suspect many shops will be unable or unwillingly to help, due to lack of tools or recent experience at this particular job - after all, the change to 130mm OLD standard for road bikes took place >25 years ago.

engineerbob

This is good information. Frankly, I lack enthusiasm for spreading the rear triangle, and would gladly have a (competent) shop do the heavy lifting.

It is tempting to buy an early '80s sport touring bike and upgrade the drivetrain (700C, 9-speed or 8-speed). Last week's Nishiki Cresta is now advertised for $195. Of course a new bike has its own appeal.