MileHighMark

A fork-mounted cable stop will usually stop squealing/noise.

Clem von Jones

If I had to do it over again I'd try the IRD Cafam medium profile cantilevers. Consider the extra leverage of their longer arms which reviewers compare to v-brakes, they stick out a bit but probably not too much, and they come stock with salmon pads. Perhaps the best canti value considering they'll likely save hours and aggravation during set-up. Read the reviews at Treefortbikes, apparently they might not work on older road-touring frames.

LeeG

The IRDs are good

cyccommute 

I've owned the Cafam and it's a poor imitation of the Paul Touring cantilever. It's not as easy to adjust and can be a bit squishy. My Paul's replaced the Cafams and I couldn't be happier.

Spld cyclist

Thanks. That's something I did try, but no dice.

scozim 

Can't do Cino on that.

etherhuffer 

Ha, oh faithless one! I have a near mint Fuji S12S LTD for that! I don't plan on riding Cino again. And, the Fuji Gran Tourer tank remains as well. But.....I would love to do L' Eroica in Italy. Or a Great Britain ride. The only plan for now is Crater Lake.

fietsbob

Next; try a Brake booster arch mounted under the bolts on the front of the brake.
it will beef up resistance of splaying the posts as you push them apart , braking.

robert schlatte

I have Paul's touring canti on the front and Tektro CR720 on rear. The Paul's are far superior but expensive so I put them on the front where the main stopping power is. I figured Paul's on the rear would be overkill.

urbanescapee

For the cost of nice cantis, you can get cheap v-brakes and roadie long-pull levers to go with them, and you'll still have better stopping power and less trouble with adjustement/servicing compared to the cantis. I've been down that road, and after switching to v-brakes I will never go back to cantis. There are few things I actually hate, cantis are one of those things and apart from compatibility with integrated shifter/brake levers, I really can't understand why anyone still uses them...tire/fender clearance really isn't an issue anymore. Also, the thought of the straddle cable dropping on my front tire gives me nightmares.

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Mounta...words=v+brakes

https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RL520-B...ng+pull+levers

With the set up seen on the amazon listings above, you could have a confidence inspiring brake set-up that's easy to adjust and service for around $60; another $10-30 bucks can get you nicer v-brakes... the whole package still being far less than a single Avid Shorty Ultimate or Paul Touring Canti for just one wheel.

If there's some other amazing aspect of cantis that I'm missing, can someone please enlighten me? I really just don't get it...

MileHighMark

With integrated levers, you're limited to shorter mini-v-brakes, unless you want to run travel agents. This can be an issue if you want to run really large tires and/or fenders. For most folks, however, it's not a problem.

I swore off cantilevers a few years ago after trying $15 BMX mini-v's.

Doug64

When I built up this bike for my wife she wanted v-brakes. She is pretty knowledgeable about components and also wanted STI shifters, hence the Travel Agents. I was a little leery about using them, but after 4 years and 10,000 miles of hard use; the only things I've done are some minor adjustments and changing several sets of brake pads. I don't ride too close behind her because she can stop a lot quicker than I can.

I still run Cane Creek SCX-5 cantis on 3 bikes, but may reconsider using v-brakes in the future.

Avis Single Digit 7 v-brakes have plenty of tire and fender clearance.


These were just installed during the start of a LHT build. I believe that good brake pads are essential for any brake to work well-- Kool Stop salmon or their two tone pads, salmon and black.

MassiveD

There are different canti geometries, relative to each other and fork geometries. It maters not a hoot what anyone in the thread says unless they are riding the exact same set-up you have or are considering. The smart thing to do is to look at the brakes on the LHT complete, and even if you try something in a higher/lower grade, do not diverge from their geometry. There are a lot of brakes that are supposed to be super, but unless they work on your fork or frame, forget all the tall tales.

Then all that said it comes to intaling them correctly (wires make the specified angle as the shoes contact the rim); and setting them up so you can easily take the wheel off without undoing the brakes.

Another big factor is the levers, correct power factor, and decisive, and the cables, hangers, half moons etc.. you can pick up a lot of stopping power in all these areas. Until you do all that stuff, do not consider an expensive upgrade brake. I went on one tour where I used cheap Shimano brakes that were stamped steel, and had plastic fairings to make them look good. They were terrible. So I splashed out 200 for Paul neo retros, exactly the same results. I love the Pauls and there is a lot of good things one can say about them, they just didn't make an ounce of difference over the other brakes.

Finally. Ideally. Not only should wheel removal be easy, but every part of the brake should be able to be worked on with one Allen key. No third hands, pliers, wrenches keys, etc... Brakes are one of the small scale bike parts than can add a lot of unnecessary weight to your bike's tool box.

I am happy with my Pauls. But far better stopping power comes from buying the cheap, but no longer made Pedersen SE brakes. Best thing ever for road levers. on Road bikes, Vs and Cantis are basically the same. Cantis are usually lighter, and more forgiving of wheel trouble. SE brakes use bike energy to increase stopping power. When Shim bought them out, they realized they were so good they got scared and no longer sold the front brakes. Stupid from a touring, and practical perspective. Only thing is the work right up to par with black rubber. Stickier rubber might lock the wheel (don't really know because I never use the stuff on SEs). But I consider it a touring advantage to not have to source fast wearing boutique shoes.

pedersen se brakes | eBay

One downside to the SEs is all the wacky variations. I like them looking basically like Neo Retros with a weight problem. I stocked up on some of the other styles, but I can't say whether they will work on road or touring bikes. The warnings about fundamental geometry styles still apply.

Black Suntour SE XC Cantilever Brakes Pederson Design | eBay

This one is more like what I am used to , though crazy price, I think 35 is findable. Also, the front and rear brakes can't be interchanged.

I'm just giving the SE details because I like them, not saying anyone else needs to. But it does make sense, there is a braking power problem with road levers, this is the only brake that really deals with that. Disc brakes of the small metal saucer type, v discs of the full wheel size type, are great, but come with a ton of problems of their own, for now.

Nokon makes the best cable housings I have used.

djb

another supporter of using softer pads like Kool Stops, for me the difference from stock pads was very very noticeable.
Perhaps because I'm a lightweight fellow, but I have had no issues with braking power with the stock cantis and koolstop soft pads on my Tricross for more than 4 seasons now on the same set of koolstops I replaced the stock pads with cuz I didnt feel the braking power enough for my tastes. I used to ride and race motorcycles and really enjoy late braking, and have been very happy with this setup, and impressed with how long these pads have lasted too.
*Im sure theyve lasted this long cuz Im light and I dont ride in muddy rainy conditions that much, not with lots of braking anyway, and I keep the bike/pads/rims clean, plus I'm not a chronic brake dragger going down steep hills.

kimpw

+1. Pauls initial set up caught me by surprise, with the spring not actually connected to the post. Pretty easy to adjust, and gives infinite angles to set your spring.

Have it on my Velo Orange Camargue which I take to do some trail/single track riding, and stops very well even in mud.

Back tire skids all day.

Medic Zero

I have bikes with both the Tektro 720's and the Nashbar cantilever brakes on them. I'd swear the Nashbars are better. On top of that, they are very often on sale for $20 for a full set! Front and rear.

Medic Zero

The 720's do really stick out. I had to swap in a different set of brakes on the front of one of my bikes to use my Nitto Big Front Rack. Totally incompatible because of how wide they are. I'd be concerned if I was choosing 720's and a front rack that wasn't minimalist. Dunno about the rear, I don't have a rear rack on that bike.

Medic Zero

+1